That's rkahr 's WPC reset board. It's a bypass solution for WPC resets. It contains a 5V regulated supply powered by the game's 12V supply to feed a clean 5V to the CPU. Provides a plug n play bypass for those not ready, or not willing to tackle the real 5V problem in their game.

I was in the same boat... I test printed on brown paper I had lying around I just put a ton more on.. and dealt with the cleanup. Much easier than having a failed print (I had one of those too) and having to repaint and try again.

I think printing some with the screen on some dummy material first can also help.. as the screen gets filled and uniform.. then do your precious print with the screen already staged.

I'm not quite following your design there... but pretty sure Bryan Kelly and HEP threads have covered their solution for it. Pretty much a pull through bolt system if I recall. someone made a socket based tool if I recall. I'm useless without a link.. I know

Except scoop kick outs cause wear as a normal part of play. Nothing you can do to stop that. It's the ball dragging due to no spin and the drop. Same with ball drops off ramps. Nothing to 'stop' there except to stop playing. Same with edge wear on certain scoops. Pop bumper areas wear for the same 'no rolling' reasons.

Spot mylar is sound strategy on even rebuilt games. And since it's on nice new PFs, you can wax under it to make removal easier... unlike the days of the 80s.

Waxing only goes so far..

They did... TOM is long after WMS started using diamond coat finishes. I think the answer is simply they were more flexible than the auto-clears used now (but not as optically clear as the auto clears used now).

and just FYI.. WMS eventually stopped using the Diamond Plate logos too.. (forget when...) but the PF was still covered the same. It was marketing in the early days when they started using it.. and everyone eventually had their own flavor of marketed covering instead of the lacquer finishes that preceded them.