Quoted from cosmokramer:Thanks, If Im not satisfied with my own repros I will take a look.
How did you make repros?
(Topic ID: 233801)
Linked Games
Theatre of Magic
Bally, 1995
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Well... now you have me reconsidering my whole situation. One ramp broke... I ordered new ramps, bit the bullet, after my repair didn't hold. While I was removing the ramps I figured I'd do titan rubbers (getting tired of the dirty looking white, even though they are new). Then I figured I'd fix the small issues with my playfield (Missing insert mainly), so I got the decals and a protector. Then I needed a few plastics but I couldn't find the one over the captive ball so I had to buy the whole set. Then I get the people over in the resto sub basically egging me on to get a new playfield. Then I inspect my cabinet and see a bunch of dings so now I'm investigating the decal set. Already have new legs. Working on getting the wireforms and cabinet candy (lockbar, etc) powder coated. You guys are killing my wallet.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Are you doing anything special to the Mirco playfield before installing? Does it need any clear coating? Holes drilled?
The clear coat is very nice, im just going to clean and wax it before I start to populate it. Im hoping that all the holes are already drilled, I know that I will have to spend a good deal of time cleaning out the holes of excess clear coat so I dont get any cracks or lifted chips during reassembly (which is why I bought the Ron Kruzman playfield kit). Im going into it assuming that the dimples for the mech and lamp socket locations will be more of a guidline rather that an exact location.
I will cover more when I start to build it as far as any problems or concerns...
Quoted from harryhoudini:Are you using the ultrasonic cleaner to clean all the metal posts and wires and such? I am considering if I am going to try and bend all new wires, get all new screws and nuts, etc. or invest in some sort of cleaner/tumbler.
Yes, I will be using both an ultra sonic for the plastic posts and some other components, and I will use a vibrating case tumbler with walnut shell media for the playfield posts and a few odds and ends. Pics coming soon.
I want to remove the wire harness with all the coils still attatched. I photograph each mech in its complete state....
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Then remove the coil, reassemble the mech and photograph again...
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This allows me to remove the harness and then disassemble and clean one mech at a time, keeping the confusion down and parts from getting mixed up. All the coils are loose now...
I was reading over the HEP thread of the TOM restore and that guy is meticulous about the cleaning of all of the parts (wire harnesses, etc). He touched on the install of parts and the dimples being off, etc. I did a swap on my Cyclone from CPR and it went pretty well. I did them side by side, while I took a bunch of pics and had to reference them often, moving a part from one playfield to the next kept my anxiety down about getting into a situation that I couldn't figure my way out of. Doing a swap on my JP which isn't a GREAT replacement playfield but way better than what I have, so I'm not going to do a whole lot of meticulous cleaning. But if I do my TOM I'll be doing similar to you. Thanks for posting.
Portland, OR
I suggest you install a star post in a few different areas and let it sit for 2 days. See if that clear coat smushes down and rolls. And for the love of God, lay your old pf ontop of the new and make sure all the holes line up not to mention make damn sure the side rail holes are drilled straight. Ask me how I know about this 
Quoted from CLEllison:I suggest you install a star post in a few different areas and let it sit for 2 days. See if that clear coat smushes down and rolls. And for the love of God, lay your old pf ontop of the new and make sure all the holes line up not to mention make damn sure the side rail holes are drilled straight. Ask me how I know about this
Thanks for the heads up, I was planning on putting the 2 fields together to check alignment, I will take a look at the rail holes as well. I have had this playfield in my closet for just over a year, hopefully it will be fully cured and hard.
The wire harness is just about free from the old playfield, im going to leave it in place for the time being. I want to take it off the old playfield, wash and dry it, and place it on the new playfield fairly quickly. But before I do that I need to size, drill and laquer the new siderails. I took the pieces of the desk that I had milled down earlier and cut them to match the originals. Only the small one needed any notching...
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Then they are clamped together and the hole locations are marked...
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I am only pre-drilling the top sides of the rail, the bottom holes will be marked and drilled after I can place the rail in position. This eliminates any problems if the rail hole locations on the new playfield are not in the correct position.
Im preparing to order LEDs, however I have personally grown out of the colored GI and translite look and want to use some LED bulbs that will look somewhat original (incandecent).
Anybody have any recommendations? I prefer to use comet bulbs if possible but if there is a better choice Im all ears
Quoted from cosmokramer:Im preparing to order LEDs, however I have personally grown out of the colored GI and translite look and want to use some LED bulbs that will look somewhat original (incandecent).
Anybody have any recommendations? I prefer to use comet bulbs if possible but if there is a better choice Im all ears
Comet has "classic" looking LED's, right on their SMD page. Should give you what you want. That or the 1SMD bulbs in sunlight white.
Quoted from cosmokramer:I prefer to use comet bulbs
+1
warm white
Quoted from cosmokramer:Im preparing to order LEDs, however I have personally grown out of the colored GI and translite look and want to use some LED bulbs that will look somewhat original (incandecent).
Anybody have any recommendations? I prefer to use comet bulbs if possible but if there is a better choice Im all ears
This is all I use now, with the frosted cap. Your choice whether you want to go with warm white or sunlight. I use sunlight. I also don't use any colors in the inserts. Just frosted sunlights everywhere. Buy 100 wedge and 100 bayonet and you're good to go.
I shopped out a few games for a local op friend and this is what he wanted. By the time I was done, I loved the look. No colored inserts that glow redder or bluer than they're supposed to. Just the look meant from the factory only brighter. And all your artwork looks like it was meant to look.
I also stick with incandescent flashers. You can have flickering issues in some games with LED flashers and the LED's are just blinding. I'd like to redo every one of my games now.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:+1
warm white
Same here Comet frosted warm white. That way I don't get blinded by looking at one straight on when it's peeking out under a plastic. Stay away from led flashers. It literally hurt
Quoted from edward472:Same here Comet frosted warm white.
I forgot to say frosted!
Titan should look into making flasher condoms. 
Quoted from edward472:Same here Comet frosted warm white. That way I don't get blinded by looking at one straight on when it's peeking out under a plastic. Stay away from led flashers. It literally hurt
Or use bendy flashers and point them away from the eye and let the plastic do the work. That's what I do.
I like to use a black ziptie to bundle the various wires together so I know which ones were in the looms, I use black so they stand out from the factory white and help me orient the harness when re-installing...
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Then the whole batch of spaghetti is moved onto 2' x 4' piece of particle board and secured into place (if you followed along with my Fish Tales rebuild you saw why I now secure the harness to the wood) 
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The harness will go in the dishwasher tomorrow morning (nothing says happy Mothers Day honey like a harness in the dishwasher).
All thats left on the old playfield are the wire looms and pop assemblies...
20190511_171836 (resized).jpg20190511_171845 (resized).jpg
Meanwhile, the new playfield rails are drilled and primered, ready for black laquer...
20190511_172001 (resized).jpgLooks awesome. I was just getting ready to swap my JP playfield and since I have replacement I was going to slide the new one right under the old and slide the wiring harness right off on to the new one but if not I was going to do it like you did. I can only imagine picking it up and trying to lay it back down in the right way.
Wrapping up a few loose ends on populating the cabinet, waiting for a bit if plastic tubing to replace the one that wont come clean. Then I can get the transformer installed and wiring complete...
The new playfield rails are now black and ready to install...
20190512_203541 (resized).jpg
One last thing to complete before clamping the new playfield onto the rotisserie...installing about 25 T-nuts on the top and underneath...
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I would like to attempt to just pound them in with a hammer like some people do, but I just cant bring myself to try it for fear of damaging/cracking the clearcoat. I want to pull them in place from the opposite side using a bolt. I need something to spread the pressure across the surface of the playfield
I cut a piece of plywood approx 2.5" x 3" and drill a hole in the center...
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Then cover one side with felt...
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Next I cut a similar size piece of ply and drill a 7/8" hole to fit a bearing into....
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Then just glue the 2 pcs together...
20190512_204015 (resized).jpg
Now, with a bolt, I can safely install the T-nuts with (hopefully) no damage. (Note: phillips head in photo was just what I had on hand for the photo I will use a bolt with a hex head and socket to set the nut...less chance of slipping a screwdriver and damaging the field)
20190512_204202 (resized).jpgI'm not quite following your design there... but pretty sure Bryan Kelly and HEP threads have covered their solution for it. Pretty much a pull through bolt system if I recall. someone made a socket based tool if I recall. I'm useless without a link.. I know
Quoted from flynnibus:I'm not quite following your design there... but pretty sure Bryan Kelly and HEP threads have covered their solution for it. Pretty much a pull through bolt system if I recall. someone made a socket based tool if I recall. I'm useless without a link.. I know
This is "loosely" based on the designs of others, using parts I had on hand. I will post some pics of it in action...
I could'nt get the clear tubing clean no matter how much I tried, so I had to get a new one...
20190515_182222 (resized).jpg
After sliding it in place I am finally able to replace the connector....
20190515_183521 (resized).jpg20190515_203141 (resized).jpg
Now I can install the transformer and harness and button up the lower cab...
At the same time, I put the playfield posts, gates and a few odds and ends into the walnut media and ran it for a day to knock off the loose crap...then added some polishing paste that will make these parts shine like new...
Quoted from cosmokramer:then added some polishing paste that will make these parts shine like new...
Do you just dump some paste into the tumbler? I use the walnut media a lot but haven’t done this before.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Is there a cheap way to get into a polishing setup?
watch ebay or craigslist. I got my tumbler from ebay.
Quoted from jmountjoy111:Do you just dump some paste into the tumbler?
I ad a turtle wax metal polish, I think pretty much any additive will improve results over just media alone.
Thanks... I was considering buffing them all by hand with a wire wheel on my bench grinder versus a tumbler, but now I'm doing two machines so I think I need to go that route.
So you recommend walnut media and metal polish?
Any thoughts on painting the cabinet hardware and wire forms? I am going back and forth between PC, plating and painting and if I paint myself or take to a body shop. I know there are considerations like coatings and I don't have a media blaster. If I did it myself I'd do an etching filler primer, some sort of gold paint and clear (either normal or 2X Spraymax). I have paint guns and a compressor but not really a spray booth setup or any automotive paints. Plus I dread what cleanup would be like.
Is this really a losing battle if I try and paint myself? I am quite tempted to go PC but the $400 price tag has me wanting to spend that on other mods and such.
Quoted from harryhoudini:$50 doesn't seem bad?
Lots of tumbler discussion in this one:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/polishing-tumbler
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Lots of tumbler discussion in this one:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/polishing-tumbler
TY!
Quoted from jmountjoy111:Do you just dump some paste into the tumbler? I use the walnut media a lot but haven’t done this before.
Yes, I put in a blob of polish a little smaller than a pinball. It really makes a difference, here are some parts that just came out of the walnut...they have not even been buffed yet
20190516_184428 (resized).jpg
Im not sure if these photos capture the overall shine, they look brand new.
I forgot to take "before" pics...
Quoted from cosmokramer:Yes, I put in a blob of polish a little smaller than a pinball. It really makes a difference, here are some parts that just came out of the walnut...they have not even been buffed yet
[quoted image]
Im not sure if these photos capture the overall shine, they look brand new.
I forgot to take "before" pics...
Oh boy, I'm gonna need a kleenex.
Now that the playfield posts and such are polished its time to finish up in some other areas....
The ribbon cables are next...
20190517_165938 (resized).jpg20190517_170402 (resized).jpg20190517_170920 (resized).jpg20190517_173445 (resized).jpg
Light boards under the playfield...
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Filled the ultrasonic with hot water...
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Added purple power...
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Throw in starposts...
Quoted from cosmokramer:Now that the playfield posts and such are polished its time to finish up in some other areas....
The ribbon cables are next...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Light boards under the playfield...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This nitty gritty part is my favorite. Glad to see you paying attention to the stuff only restoration junkies enjoy.
Quoted from NYP:I think you're making a mistake by not replacing 25 year old ribbon cables but carry on.....
If there are 4 cables in a game and I've restored 110 games, that comes to 440 cables. I've maybe had to replace half a dozen.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Quoted from NYP:I think you're making a mistake by not replacing 25 year old ribbon cables but carry on.....
I considered it, but they are easily replaced at any time. I am focusing on replacing ALL the hard to get to components that wear out (all microswitches, all optos etc)
Quoted from NYP:I think you're making a mistake by not replacing 25 year old ribbon cables but carry on.....
If they clean up well and transmit the data well, why replace them? Seems like a way to spend more on a restoration than is needed, IMHO.
Looking good!
I need to get into the cabinet building aspect of restorations. I find it hard since I no longer have a woodshop with cabinet saw, now I'm in a 12x16 shed with a contractor saw. Thanks for the inspiration.
Quoted from flynnibus:I'm not quite following your design there... but pretty sure Bryan Kelly and HEP threads have covered their solution for it. Pretty much a pull through bolt system if I recall. someone made a socket based tool if I recall. I'm useless without a link.. I know
Quoted from cosmokramer:This is "loosely" based on the designs of others, using parts I had on hand. I will post some pics of it in action...
20190519_105931 (resized).jpg20190519_110629 (resized).jpg20190519_110831 (resized).jpg20190519_110838 (resized).jpg20190519_110909 (resized).jpg20190519_110946 (resized).jpgQuoted from cosmokramer:Here is the new playfield, so what are the recommended mylar locations on this title?
[quoted image]
Basement door, around trunk, drops from ramps. That’s really it on ToM.
Quoted from pintechev:Basement door, around trunk, drops from ramps. That’s really it on ToM.
Thanks
Almost forgot an important early step...wax the playfield first, it only takes a minute when theres no switches sticking up, starposts and plastics in the way, or trying to get under ramps...
20190519_112156 (resized).jpg20190519_112102 (resized).jpg20190519_112817 (resized).jpgQuoted from cosmokramer:Here is the new playfield, so what are the recommended mylar locations on this title?
[quoted image]
Mylar... Are you going to route this game? HUO = no mylar, IMHO.
Quoted from kcZ:Mylar... Are you going to route this game? HUO = no mylar, IMHO.
I wont be routing this, no
Can I get away with no mylar?
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