I just acquired a TOM on Ebay. Machine arrived in great physical shape, but has some problems. One I have never dealt with is the 50V power used for solenoids and flippers. When I first power up game it started up fine, but would not serve up a ball. Checked other solenoid mechanisms on the play field. All scored as appropriate, but none actuated including the flippers. Checked fuses and found that F112 on the Power Driver Board was blown. Replaced it and the replacement blew as soon as I powered the game up. Determined that F112 powers the 50V BR3 bridge rectifier on the P/D Board and via connector J105 to connector J901 the 50V bridge rectifier on the Fliptronic II Board. I disconnected J105, put in a new F112 fuse, and powered up the game. The fuse did not blow and the solenoids worked. All of the four flipper fuses on the Fliptronic Board are good, therefore I think that there is a short in the Fliptronic Board rectifier or the adjacent filter capacitor. My thinking is to replace both and hopefully get the flippers working. Any thoughts? Any suggestions on how to change out the bridge rectifier and the capacitor? Thanks

Made some progress. Removed the Fliptronics board and determined that there is nothing wrong with the diodes in the bridge rectifier on the Fliptronics board. The 50V rectified output from the bridge goes to 4 fuses, one for each flipper. Each flipper has a power coil winding and a hold winding so really two 50 volt drivers for each flipper, 8 total per board. Continuing to review the Fliptronics board schematic each driver has a diode with its cathode wired to the 50V and the anode to the driver lead . I checked all 8 diodes and they are good.

Sooo I put the board back in the game and confirmed that it worked as it did before I removed the board. I then reconnected the 50V AC power cable, J105, and removed all of the four flipper fuses on the Fliptronics board to decouple the drivers from the flippers. It should be noted that in TOM there are only 2 flippers. The game uses 3 of the four available drivers of the unused upper flippers to power two magnets and a solenoid mechanism. I powered up the game and fuse F112 did not blow. I also confirmed that I had 50V DC on the Driver Board and the Fliptronics board.

At this point I think there is nothing wrong with the diode bridge rectifier on the Fliptronics board and that one or more of the flipper or non-flipper mechanisms is shorted or otherwise drawing excessive current when the 50 V is connected to the mechanism solenoid coil. I decided to start with trying to get the flippers working and attack the non-flipper stuff later. I re-inserted F904 that provides 50V to the lower left flipper. Powered up the game and no fuses blew. Started the game but the lower left flipper did not work, bummer.

Ran out of time. Plan is to work to get the left flipper working. Then the right, then the non flipper stuff. Hopefully along the way the problem will become obvious. Any thoughts?

Game plays fine now with no more blown fuses, YA. Followed my plan outlined above. Started with all of the fuses removed on the Fliptronics board and then re-inserted them one at a time. Flippers work and the two magnets and solenoid powered by the Fliptronics board. One little detail I noted is that the fuse list in the game's operation manual are incorrectly listed. The upper and lower flippers are interchanged on both the right and left side. That is why the left flipper did not work when I reinserted the first fuse, F904. I pulled F904 and re-inserted F902 and viola the left flipper worked and so on till all the fuses were re-inserted. So in summary I was not able to find the "smoking gun" that caused the main solenoid fuse, F112, to blow. My guess is that when the game was shipped to me in Annapolis, MD from California something shifted that caused a short on the 50V AC ckt. In the process of working the problem, removing and re-installing the Fliptronics board I worked over a lot of electrical connections. I also noted that the Fliptronics card was loose when I received the game, none of its fasteners were tight. However the card was retained in place by the electrical cables. All of the other circuit boards were properly secured. I guess shipping could of caused the board to come loose, but I doubt it.