Honokaa, HI
Aloha all,
I'll be joining the club shortly...
-z
(Topic ID: 43909)
Linked Games
Theatre of Magic
Bally, 1995
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3 weeks later
Quoted from pinballinreno:Does it have the pop-up center post/plastic disk between the flippers? Its controlled by the poof targets.
If so. I would buy it immefiately.
Mine has this mod.
Quoted from marioparty34:Can you please post a pic? I don't think I have seen this before.
Sure. I'll post it tomorrow morning.
Got a few questions:
1) Does anyone know the size of the bulb the trunk "candle" light mod takes? Looks like a 555, but it's clearly smaller. I'd like to change it from red to purple.
2) Does anyone know who sells cliffy's for ToM?
3) Forgot what I wanted to ask...
Thanks
Quoted from weaverj:cliffy does .
[email protected]
Why thankyeh. 
Quoted from marioparty34:Can you please post a pic? I don't think I have seen this before.
Here're the pics. Someone added a piece of clear plastic to the solenoid shaft to, I assume, keep the post insert from spinning back, forth and upside down. Works, but doesn't work that great. I'll see if I can rectify it somehow because it's an eyesore.
The post pops up when you strike the poof target.
IMG_20210417_093844186 (resized).jpgIMG_20210417_093848293 (resized).jpgIMG_20210417_094203 (resized).jpgQuoted from littlecammi:That's weird. My proto with red boards (see post 920 in this thread) says MAGIC on the playfield above the post and POST below it. There is no wording on the red post itself. An insert for SHOOT AGAIN was added above and to the left of the left flipper. And the target that raises the post says RAISE MAGIC POST on the playfield instead of POOF.
This is a regular machine that's been modded. 
Quoted from littlecammi:That's weird. My proto with red boards (see post 920 in this thread) says MAGIC on the playfield above the post and POST below it. There is no wording on the red post itself. An insert for SHOOT AGAIN was added above and to the left of the left flipper. And the target that raises the post says RAISE MAGIC POST on the playfield instead of POOF.
Cool, I found it. Where'd you ever buy a ToM proto? That must be worth a pretty penny, eh?
Quoted from dq13:Mylar and a playfield protector are 2 different items. The playfield protector I have has no adhesive and covers the entire playfield. This is a lightening rod issue whether they are needed and whether they alters gameplay beyond recognition. I love mine and the piece of mind that this machine will be around for at least another generation. There are slight variations in the gameplay (e.g. a few more airballs), but overall its personal preference.
The same original German product is sold through Cointaker so you don't have to pay $75 for international shipping:
https://cointaker.com/products/playfield-protector-pinball-stern
dq13 Thanks! Might order one.. This machine already has airballs galore, so that's not too concerning. LOL chipping paint and clear are however.. Cheers.
1 week later
Having some issues with my modded ToM:
I installed Kahr board to prevent low voltage reset... Seemed to be working okay. But then it reset again? I have recently replaced a 2016 version board with the "latest" 2018 design.
Blue and red LEDs are solid, green is flashing, so it's detected that 5v went both high and low, and that 12v went below 9v.
IMG_20210510_201412549 (resized).jpg
IMG_20210511_010908 (resized).jpg
I've also had my game just plain hang, and also "brick" on power-on. The game has these mods: tiger saw, mirror lights, spinning card in hat, and magic wand light (also ball deflector)... Disconnected alligator clip hooked to TP1(3?) which powers the board that runs all this stuff and so far didn't notice any resets...
Any guidance would be appreciated. And while I'm here, let me add this:
I looked over my connectors and J120 is burnt at pins 7 and 8 which control 6.8VAC to the playfield. Looks like I'd better get to replacing it with trifurcon/molex connector?
IMG_20210511_010024 (resized).jpg
IMG_20210511_005953 (resized).jpg
Please advise. Thank you!
1 week later
Quoted from Nikrox2:mods ? Lol.
Hope to have my ToM tomorrow! Then break her down, clean her up and start working on her !
Enjoy!!! Where'd you get those velvet ropes?
Quoted from Nikrox2:I'll post a couple of photos once she's up and running again!
Awesome! Can't wait to see it. I'm excited for you. Congratulations on joining the club. I'm currently taking mine apart too for deep cleaning, waxing hard-to-reach spots, re-rubbering with Titans. Also, completely changed the lighting (still in the process).
Happy to hear you fixed it up. Had some issues with mine too, but minor, so I'm satisfied. What machine doesn't have issues?
Here's the old lighting:
IMG_20210419_194716756 (resized).jpg
Here's the new lighting (waiting on 2nd spotlight and trough light kit):
IMG_20210520_121217301_HDR (resized).jpg
I used Comet purple passion for the sockets under the plastics. Looks even better in person.
Quoted from dq13:[quoted image]
Thank you!!!
Quoted from AAAV8R:Need help!
Machine went berserk during multiball. DMD went black, flippers went dead, and balls started ejecting into the shooter lane as fast as they went into the trough……all the while, multiball lights and sounds going as if everything was normal.
I switched the game off. Left it for a few minutes. Turned it back on and…..no self test and no DMD. Attract mode running normally. Start light flashing but when you press it nothing happens.
I don’t even know where to begin. Any suggestions?
[quoted image]
Do any new mods lately? Took anything apart? Might want to retrace your steps... Look for blown fuses, look for burnt connectors. Look over everything!
Quoted from AAAV8R:Thank you. I appreciate any advice. I am completely new to this system so this will be a challenge. I started looking at the boards in the back box and it looks like LED 7 should be on but it is out. So no 12VDC power? All fuses appear to be intact.
Hard to troubleshoot because it doesn’t boot into test mode and the DMD is out.
I understand that there are some old WPC repair guides out there that may not be available anymore. If anyone is willing to share and send the files please send a PM. Thank you in advance.
Wish I could be more helpful, but I'm new to this in general. Having some issues with my machine too, like this morning, it "turned on" but appeared to be bricked. It's done this before and back after a few attempts. FYI, my machine has tiger saw mod, illuminated mirror, hat, color dmd, entrance lights etc. A lot of extras the machine isn't designed for. Have the Kahr low voltage reset board installed... It runs great 99%, sometimes it's a sh!tbag.
Might want to start looking at your power delivery system first... Ever had anything like this happen before? Any recent changes or maintenance?
Keep us posted.
Quoted from AAAV8R:I understand that there are some old WPC repair guides out there
Quoted from Nikrox2:don’t know how to add video or sound here
Upload to YouTube then paste the link here.
Quoted from PittPin:i have a question for you guys that have added the tiger saw/lit marquee mod to your game. The installation instructions call for getting 12 v by clipping the alligator clip to TP1. I did this and it works, but I don't like the idea of the clip on the power driver board. Has anyone picked up 12v for this mod from another location?
Your best bet is to route it through an external power supply.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Dennis_B:Hi all, I'm Dennis. Just spent the last days lurking to 67 pages of this thread and learnt a lot. I have been saving up for my first machine since quite some time. Decisions to make because there are so many good ones. But couldn't resist TOM. So i'd like to join the club. She is in need of some love but nothing i can't handle reading all these posts. First thing is to get some leds and stop the current flowing through the connectors. I tried some on the playfield and they look nice but i need some advice before i buy alot of them. Theatre has dimming in GI does it really matter that much if you lose that and go all led even on the GI? Also has anyone good tips on the colors. I'm no purist at all otherwise i would use all white lighting.
Check out the lighting on my machine and PM me if you want to ask questions.
4 weeks later
Heeeeeyyyyy,
Back with a new issue!
Was playing a game and had both flippers activated while magnet was grabbing draining ball... Magnet, flippers and start button "died". Assuming it's a fuse but any enlightenment would be appreciated.
Pressing the start button multiple times, I was able to initiate a game, but no ball appears in the shooter lane.
Thanks in advance
z
Quoted from AAAV8R:Hey that sounds suspiciously like the problem I had. Have you looked at the powerboard for signs of trouble? Did you test the voltages?
I lost my 12v unregulated DC due to a bad bridge rectifier. Lost the flippers, DMD, and the game would turn on and the start button would be flashing but when you pressed the button nothing would happen.
Sorry I’m on the road and I can’t provide more details but that’s where I would start looking. BTW if that is the problem it is an easy and cheap fix.
I'll take a look at it. I suspected something of this nature, especially seeing the machine working hard to power everything going on. I can see plenty if dimming throughout the gameplay. I have a brand new external power board from @DumbAss, it's probably time to go ahead and overhaul this machine - everything else is in top notch shape.
I checked over the fuses and didn't see anything suspect. I'll start testing voltages on the power board. Thanks for jumping in to lend a hand.
Quoted from FlippyD:Yeah this is gonna need a bit more investigating. A fuse probably blew but you always have to ask yourself, why?
It does sound like a power driver board issue. You could check for a blown fuse and replace it just to see if it was a one-off, but it may happen again.
Like AAAV8R suggested I would check the 12V to see if it's stable.
Thanks. I'll be doing that ASAP. Thanks for weighing in on it.
4 months later
Aloha,
Looking for some insight on troubleshooting my ToM.
Was working great (after doing some fixing), now suddenly it's in a constant state of reboot. Flip switch, game powers on, all LEDs look good and go through their motions. After D20 starts blinking for awhile game reboots. Low voltage reset? Maybe a dying rectifier?
Thanks,
J
Quoted from Robl45:After 10 years or so I'm finally ready to repair the top of this game. I have the color to use. Can I get some suggestions on what is the best way product to fill in the damage? I was originally thinking bondo, but that is a pain to sand etc, then I was thinking wood filler, but have no experience with what brand product might work best for this. Obvioiusly top isn't going to match well, mainly concerned with filling in the front top and painting the top left corner so that it looks normal from the front.[quoted image]
Try epoxy mixed with dye.. probably okay to paint on it too once it dries.
Quoted from zhu808:Aloha,
Looking for some insight on troubleshooting my ToM.
Was working great (after doing some fixing), now suddenly it's in a constant state of reboot. Flip switch, game powers on, all LEDs look good and go through their motions. After D20 starts blinking for awhile game reboots. Low voltage reset? Maybe a dying rectifier?
Thanks,
J
I suspect J120 on the power driver board.. when I reseated the connector, that seemed to solve an earlier issue I had with the lower playfield lamps not coming on... (This is currently the case again now, too...) I think I want to try rewiring the connector back to IDC (everything else is) because I feel like what I have now isn't making good contact... Not to mention pin 7 has overheated, or IS overheating for some reason. Any thoughts? Maybe the pins weren't crimped properly and there's an arc between the wire and the molex(?) pin? Is that possible? EDIT: I also want to note that J121 has also been molexed; it controls the G.I. inserts...
IMG_20211208_174554044.jpgIMG_20211208_174622530.jpg
11 months later
Quoted from Indypin:Hey TOM owners, I have a problem.
Okay, I'm playing the pin and I lock the 2nd ball. Afterwards the game goes quiet and the color display shows the animation of the magicians throwing the electrical bolt on stage starting the multiball mode. The trunk also does not rotate to the magnet in order to shoot for the 3rd lock, but it operates fine during the rest of the game. Again, no sound during all of this. The pin then goes to multiball mode with no sound but it picks up fine after the last drain.
I checked the batteries thinking maybe some type of corrosion did this, but they're fine.
Any ideas?
Having the same problem.
Quoted from Fastfred:Trunk problem. When the game is shut off for the day etc when starting a game does not work (turning). Once I get the test going on the trunk then never an issue as will work until you shut it off and within a couple of hours turn the game on and at least will still work and turn. But then again the next day it is not working. I have played so much in readjusting the set screw to be right on target with the cut in the metal matching it to the sensor. I have replaced the original eddy with the self adjusting ones also. Possible one of the four sensors are not good. I have cleaned them also. When I am in test mode with the trunk it spins and goes thru without any issues. Any help please? Thank you once again.
Is the trunk eddy sensor registering in switch test (test with a pinball)? My trunk "stopped" too, but in test mode it was fine. Turns out the potentiometer on the eddy board just needed to be adjusted (LED barely off, as per the manual).
Quoted from Indypin:Hey TOM owners, I have a problem.
Okay, I'm playing the pin and I lock the 2nd ball. Afterwards the game goes quiet and the color display shows the animation of the magicians throwing the electrical bolt on stage starting the multiball mode. The trunk also does not rotate to the magnet in order to shoot for the 3rd lock, but it operates fine during the rest of the game. Again, no sound during all of this. The pin then goes to multiball mode with no sound but it picks up fine after the last drain.
I checked the batteries thinking maybe some type of corrosion did this, but they're fine.
Any ideas?
Were you able to resolve this issue? If yes, what did you do to fix it? Thanks.
Quoted from dgAmpGuy:Does anyone know the part number and how unobtainable this is? It’s missing on our game.
Thanks,
Dave
Check the manual.
Quoted from Indypin:No sir, not yet. I played the game the night before I went on vacation and noticed the problem then. Going to check it once I get home. They game was playing flawless until this popped up. Never had this problem before even with the first one I had in the collection. Will keep you posted.
I've been fiddling with trapdoor switches, particularly the one for the trapdoor raise coil, and I noticed that the actuator becomes loose and starts to drift towards the nearby spring, which seems like it might be activating it (again, and possibly over and over again) when the mechanism bounces back down.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:I had a similar issue on my game recently.
I went into test mode and started trying switches. Most everything checked out fine until I rolled a couple of balls into the trunk so they went down into the subway and stopped at the lock switches. I saw Lock 1 come on, which was good, then Lock 2 for the second ball and Lock 3 for the third. While doing this though, I saw Lock 1 blip off and then on again. This didn't seem right, so I focused on the Lock 1 switch more.
It wasn't doing it every time, but on occassion, it would not register the ball being in that location. This is a pretty crucial switch for many things including correct trunk multiball start, launching balls back out the trap door and a few others. What I'm saying is, when this switch is confusing the game, all kinds of strange things start happening.
I removed the switch for a closer look and it turns out the lever arm had gotten sloppy. Like it had developed too much play in it so at times it was getting pushed off to the side instead of straight down. This then was contacting the sides of the slot in the metal subway portion that those three switches go into and that interference was causing the missed switch signals.
I didn't have a new switch on hand, will order one though, so in the meantime, I carefully pinched the sides of the metal lever arm a little more closely together so it wouldn't have that sloppy side to side movement. And it seemed to work as that weird trunk / multiball oddness is gone.
Moral of the story: check switches in test mode and test them in different combinations (like more than one at a time like with additional balls in those lock positions) to see if something acts different than what you would expect. Then focus on that.
Thanks for this rundown.. I'm experiencing this problem currently and have been suspecting that switch (along with ball magnetism) to be the cause of either: locked balls being immediately ejected by the trapdoor (the pin that stops balls in the subway is intact), or multiball starting prematurely.
1 week later
Quoted from radix:Hello, I cant seem to find a 01-13892.1 Ramp Guard. My guard was missing from the machine when I got it. Does anyone have a suggestion as to how I might find one?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Marco Specialities doesn't have any?
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