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Quoted from dq13:Just confirming, what is needed to upgrade to 2.0? Can I just install and be done with it, or are other board mods needed?
Make sure you have the 539 security chip installed.
Quoted from nickbuol:Does anyone know how many GI bulbs are in a TOM?
I bought a LED "kit" years ago, and I am tired of the light "pink" LED GI lights that came in the kit and want to go white.
Any ideas of how many are needed, the type of bulb (so that I get the bulb right) or even a recommendation on exact bulbs to buy would be great.
Thanks all!
Honestly? Buy a bunch of warm white LEDs (and get GIOCD and LEDOCD as well), and ditch all the colored LEDs except for a few exposed places. You'll be amazed at how good it looks and how your eyes stop bleeding!
You can find a list of all the lamps in the manual on page 2-41. You can download a free copy here: https://www.ipdb.org/files/2845/Bally_1995_Theatre_of_Magic_Manual.pdf
Good luck!
Quoted from DumbAss:Here's three pieces of friendly advice for you when asking for help like this.
Remove all 3rd party add-ons (such as LED OCD and GI OCD) when reporting issues. This eliminates one variable. If the problem goes away when you remove these 3rd party add-ons you know that they are the cause and you should follow up with the manufacturer of the product.
Consult the manual. It contains a lot of very useful information - including the matrix tables.
Use the names (bonus points for using the numbers) of the bulbs in the matrix tables.Translation of your post:
When the single lamp test is on "(T)HEATRE" (lamp 11) the "SPECIAL" (lamp 81) is also dimly illuminated.
When the single lamp test is on "TRUNK HIT 2" (lamp 51) the "HAT MAGIC" (lamp 71) is also dimly illuminated.
You should do this systematically as pinballinreno suggests. Take your time. Consult the table. Look at the numbers.
My opinion:Exclude the OCD boards by removing them. I don't think you have a diode problem.
Use incandescent or non-ghosting LED bulbs to exclude LED ghosting as the cause.
If you do all that and you still have simultaneously erroneous dimly illuminated bulbs then you have an issue.
Exclude the driver board by using a lamp matrix tester.
If you leave GIoCD and LEDOCD installed, you can use them for testing. The config software has a manual mode which allows you to activiate certain LEDs manually. Good for testing.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Check for battery corrosion on the CPU board and battery holder contacts..
Sounds like the battery connection is corroded and power is not getting to the circuit to save settings.
If the time resets after a power cycle it‘s definitely the batteries. You can get an NVRAM to protect your scores and settings against battery failure, but the clock won‘t run when the batteries are dead or not properly connected.
Stupid question: Did you put the batteries in with + and - properly aligned?
Quoted from Goalie:I had a3d translite on my previous machine. I really liked it, i wish they still made them, I haven’t been able to find another one for sale.
Xianek makes one:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1zmcSkKigpmbqAeXVZXS752w2zrvuNAPh
Here's a source for a v2.0 ROM: https://www.pinsound.org/get-the-latest-gamecode-for-theater-of-magic-pinball-machine/
Quoted from DystopicPinball:Hi everyone,
I'd like to share with you the gallery of all the mods I've made for my TOM pinball!
Thank you
https://www.dystopicpinball.com/my-pinball-gallery/theatre-of-magic
I'd love to order, but Pinside says your shop's in "maintenance".
Quoted from pinballinreno:Since you put in LEDs the voltage is much lower and the connector wont burn again.
Sorry for being a smartass - but voltage should be the same, though the *current* is much lower with LEDs. Or am I mistaken?
Quoted from KingMixer:OK, I've got a problem that I'm hoping you guys can help with. This might get long, but I wanna give you all the info I have so you can make the best diagnosis.
A about a month ago, if I played my TOM every day, I had no problem. But I found that if I left my TOM off for a few days or more, when I turned it on, I'd have a credit dot: do Trunk Test. I did the trunk test, the test showed no problem, when I got out of test mode, credit dot was gone, game was fine. This happened a few times, same result each time.
A few days ago, same thing happened with the credit dot, but this time when I did the trunk test, the trunk only moved a quarter of an inch each way in either direction. I "rocked" it quickly back and forth with the two buttons, and it loosened itself, tested fine, game was fine.
The last thing (possibly unrelated) is that now the trunk is not registering hits.
So anybody know what's going on here? Trunk motor? Eddy board? Opto Wheel Interrupter?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Are your batteries OK?
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