I feel very lucky to have just picked up a, no kidding, home-use-only Theatre of Magic from the original owner. I can't believe my luck. The machine came with the original envelope that contained the unused manuals, schematics, service bulletins, key-chain fob, stickers, and spare bulbs. It had been so rarely used and rarely serviced that the lock-down bar "beer seal" became glued to the glass and had to be pried off. It also appears to have the original batteries (that did not have an expiration date which are common with modern batteries) which by some miracle did not leak.

I'm in the process of fixing some minor items and cleaning it up. Pictures to follow.

Any advice on removing the ramps for cleaning? Is it as straightforward as finding each screw/bolt and removing it or is there a gotcha?

I like Nilroc's pictures. Perhaps all machine owners in the Theatre of Magic club should post a picture of:
1) Rear cabinet sticker
2) Magic trunk
3) Whole machine picture

Could someone take a picture of the area just to the right of the magic trunk and behind the white stand-up target? I may have a missing post or two and can't find a reference picture.

Like the one below, but lit better.

215180484_90f68fc014.jpg

No one noticed in the other thread, but here are some coin door insert graphics to replace those boring "push to reject" inserts:

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Theatre_of_Magic_coin_door_inserts_bw..png

Yes, that did it! Thank you. It seems I am missing one post.

I replaced it with a through-the-field post. Is that better or did I sign up for a different problem?

What is the post part number of the post on the right corner of the trunk.

I purchased this one: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=324
530-5004-00.jpg

However, in my machine, the threads in the playfield were stripped, so I drilled through the playfield and replaced it with this: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=320
530-5005-00.jpg

Don't forget the rubber and the nylon locknut if you go with the second post.

Finally got around to putting these in.

IMG_20130413_213400_641.jpg

Download the manual: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?gid=2845 . More than you would want to know is there, including performing a "factory reset" which is option 8 in the Utilities menu.

You'll then need to set it back to free play, though. This exercise is left to the reader.

Lots of threads about this. (Here's one I started: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reinforce-theatre-of-magic-trunk-anyone-try-duct-tape )

I'm going to try butyl rubber sound insulation (e.g. Dynamat). I just purchased this to put into a new trunk: ebay.com link: NEW 1 Sqft GTMAT Onyx Butyl Real Rubber Automotive Proofing Insulation Deadener

Yes, it is "Reset H.S.T.D" option in the Utilities menu. You can even change what the default high scores are in the Adjustments menu.

All menu items are detailed in the manual.

I did a full LED conversion on a different title once (Hurricane) and found that the software liked to blink lots of inserts simultaneously during gameplay, resulting in a nauseating strobe effect.

Do you notice anything like that with ToM and your conversion?

Maybe you and I both suck, but I agree with you.

Where did you find a matching set of brass? I had thought only mismatched components from different sellers were available.

A lesson I would like to share: don't adjust the trunk eddy sensor too sensitively. I did so, but what tended to happen is that the sensors would start to self-trigger when the machine warmed up. Should this happen while you have two balls locked and are ready for multi-ball, this can make the machine go a little haywire.

Long story short - I learned that triggering the trunk magnet and the sub ball release simultaneously can exceed the capacity of the shared circuit, blowing the fuse. I'm glad the fuse did its job, but I don't plan on doing anything that blows a fuse too often.

I managed to do this twice before I backed off the adjustment of the trunk eddy sensor a bit more from the edge.

Pinbits hasn't stocked those self-adjusting eddy boards for a couple of years now: http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=13_33&zenid=gb18vn4hqlfasapdjg71igh7b1

Any chance backing off the adjustment more helps? I blew two fuses before I backed out the adjustment more. I back it out approximately 1 hour on a clock face and I haven't blown a fuse since.

Hope this helps a bit. Lloyd recommends fingernail polish:
https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/rec.games.pinball/vZaehXCIdZs

That first picture is a bit dim. Can you get a daylight pic? It's too dim to see awesomeness.

I have a dilemma. I need to replace the legs, but don't want to replace the lockdown bar and glass frame. So a full matching bronze set is beyond my ambitions.

What color legs would work best with stock stainless around the glass:
1) stock stainless
2) black
3) gold

Do you mean it is getting stuck under the ramp when it is in the pop bumpers? You might be missing a rubber. Look at this pic: http://www.theteardown.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=70&sessionid=e22b4248f635c4b3282ee842b7929247

Otherwise, I'm having a hard time visualizing how the ball is getting stuck while ON the right ramp. If you can post a picture of the ball stuck in that spot, I'm sure everyone will see what part might be missing.

Here's another source:
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=131

If you would like to experiment, find some very good double sided tape and this: http://www.tempurpedic.com/Our-Company/information-kit.asp (this foam REALLY stops the ball dead in its tracks)

Beer seal might be too light/soft against a heavy ball traveling at high speed.

I lined the inside of my trunk with a sample piece of automotive sound deadener (like this: ebay.com link: 2 sqft GTMat Pro 50mil Auto Car Audio Sound Deadener All Vehicles 12 x 12 ). Since this material is designed to absorb vibrations, it had the effect of making the trunk last longer and absorb ball hits better. Be careful though - this material can be a bit gooey to work with.

Alternatively, I had not tried this on the trunk, but Pinbits' dropdead foam is much neater and also absorbs ball impacts.

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Don't forget to get a protector. I can't believe how easily the entrance plastic breaks.

I lined the inside of a new trunk with automotive sound deadener (e.g. Dynamat or equivalent; I purchased a single sheet of "GTmat" from Ebay) and it survived plenty of hits with no cracks.