(Topic ID: 43909)

Theatre of Magic Club

By Nilroc

8 years ago


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#401 6 years ago

I just finished installing and programming these today. Curious to know what owners of ToM think.

The first video is of the background sequence that plays in attract mode. The second is interactive with gameplay.

#409 6 years ago
Quoted from Isjack:

Really cool - wondering if you could get an overhead shot (player's perspective)? It looked awesome but I'd like to see what I'd see.

Just shot the background sequence from a standing position:

Also, I just wrote up the instructions on how to make and install this: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1AILkBQkR4-VTdYEEuH_BTGi2seYsod-aqP9rHbFgXhY/edit?usp=sharing

You'll need a Pinduino (which is almost ready!): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/update-arduino-shield-propin-pinhead

6 months later
3 months later
#610 5 years ago
Quoted from KyleCat:

Anyone know if having a preliminary manual that came with the machine dating February 1995 raises any value?

I'd say no. At most, we are talking $25-$50, which is pretty small compared to the cost of the game as a whole.

1 week later
#627 5 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I can't get the "Lamp in Cube" (#85 in the manual) to light with an LED or incandescent. Any ideas?

Also, the wires powering it may have broken from repeated spinning and need to be replaced.

#650 5 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Clean the subway underneath

+1 This is a major place where gunk can build up. It is easy to check to see how dirty your subway is as I recall it is clear plastic (or should be clear). Also, if you replace with black rubber (which is my choice, but really is personal preference), they seem to cause an increase black marks for a while.

#652 5 years ago

As I recall, lift the playfield, and start taking off the screws holding it to the playfield. You may have some switches attached to it that may or may not unplug from the main wiring harness.

Note: If you haven't done this before, make sure to take a lot of photos before you start and as you go along. Then you can use the photos in reverse order to put it back on.

#654 5 years ago

KyleCat -- let us know if you haven't done something like this before. Folks here can offer you some helpful advice to get started (e.g., take the balls out before lifting the playfield.) Also, feel free to post pictures if you run into anything confusing.

#671 5 years ago

Are you getting airballs off of shots to the stand up targets? If so, you may want to replace the foam behind those targets.

#673 5 years ago

Are the posts bent? I did change my post to the one shown in the picture (sorry for the glare, I didn't take of the PF glass). Also, you can add foam behind the plastic on the trunk to absorb some of shock from a ball hitting it.

photo_2.jpg

#675 5 years ago
Quoted from Ben1981:

Looks familiar
image.jpg
No more airballs from these posts!
Cheers

Great minds think alike!

#680 5 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Insect the wiring to and from the switches that are out.

Sounds like you found a bug somewhere . . .

#681 5 years ago
Quoted from Nugget88:

Hey does any1 know why a whole row of switches stopped workin?

Also, check the plug and header to the switch matrix for the bad row.

#685 5 years ago

If you haven't replaced ROM in a socket before, pay close attention to the ROM legs and make sure that they are position correctly before pushing down. It is very easy to bend them (and bend them back to the proper position.) Definitely go slow, and as flashinstinct said, made sure you match the orientation of the chip correctly (one end of a rom chip is marked with a divot).

#686 5 years ago

There is a great picture of a ROM here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nvram-experience/page/6#post-2846180
Note that there is a divot on the rom on the side at the top of the photo.

#689 5 years ago
Quoted from KyleCat:

After about 40 minutes of pushing, pulling, bending, and repeating I finally got all of the prongs in the whole. Also finished all led inserts and some backbox. Might be making another order from Arthur at cometpinball.

Congrats! It will be easier the second time. Art's products at Comet are great.

2 months later
#811 5 years ago
Quoted from swampy:

1. That left orbit round to the metal ramp that feeds the right flipper is an almost impossible shot on my machine. Won't make it up the wire ramp at the back of the pop bumpers. Game is set up correctly to the best of my knowledge. Any suggestions/known issues?

Sometimes the end of wireform on the outside curve is protruding too far inward and the ball hits it as it enters the wireform from the ramp. You can adjust the wireform where it mounts to the playfield or bend it slightly.

1 month later
#840 5 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

When I shoot the left loop, that little flappy gate thing keeps blocking the ball from returning to the right rail.

It is controlled by a small cool. Check to see if the coil is working. Then check that the spring is attached. Then check if the mechanism is not binding. I seem to recall that a part in there can flip and jam the mechanism.

#844 5 years ago

Does it blow the fuse if the magnets are just connected, if the magnets are connected AND you triggered hocus pocus, or if the magnets are connected AND you triggered hocus pocus AND you have triggered an outlane eddy sensor. Have you tried to narrow down the problem to one magnet (unplug one at a time)? I'd guess a short in the line and you may want to trace the power wires to the offending magnet. Also, you may want to check the pots on the eddy sensor boards that trigger the magnets.

#850 5 years ago

The right orbit shot is definitely a more difficult show than the left orbit. There are other ways to advance the clock too -- e.g., hitting the captive ball after locking a ball will advance the clock.

2 months later
#926 5 years ago

I can make you this Pinduino interactive light kit for your ramps for $175 (plug and play).

PM me if you are interested.

1 week later
#945 5 years ago
Quoted from jyeakley:

Finally got my TOM back together! I tore it all down and cleaned the heck out of it (including the trunk gear box!). Added the following - I included links in case other may want to know where to go...hope it helps someone
- New Titan rubbers throughout (https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5074)
- LED and GI OCD (http://ledocd.com/)
- Pinduino v0.3 (thanks Eric) (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinduino-v03-interactive-control-of-leds)
- aluminum opto interrupter (http://littleshopofgames.com/product/theatre-of-magic-trunk-aluminum-opto-interupter-03-9318-m/)
- new bats (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9250-5)
- Brassed the legs, rails, habitrails, lockdown (thanks Ron! - email: [email protected]) (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/plating-chrome-brass-and-nickel)
- Leon's trunk board (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tom-trunk-error-leons-fix-anyone-done-this)
- CT LED Super kit (works the best with OCD boards!) (http://cointaker.com/products/theatre-of-magic-kit-w-super-leds)
- new trunk (http://littleshopofgames.com/product/theatre-of-magic-trunk-03-9317/)
- new glass (Ohio show)
- new decal on trunk and trap (http://littleshopofgames.com/product/theatre-of-magic-decal-set-with-lexan/)
- new trap door assembly (https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=A-19938)
- new pop bumper skirts (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-6035-4)
- pinbits optos (https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_33&products_id=296&zenid=5306e128be22caf266df6729db36a505)
- new newton ball (https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=04-10005%09)
- new Star Posts throughout (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8319-8)
Future todos:
- plastic protectors (https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_33&products_id=268&zenid=f86d88cbb40f222bbca6a6a509bc4cc4)
- tiger saw mod (http://pinballpro.net/shop/theatre-of-magic-motorized-gold-tiger-saw-blade-w-lighted-marquee-mirror/)
- trunk lock kit (http://pinballpro.net/shop/theatre-of-magic-truck-lock-kit/)
- speaker upgrade (http://pinballpro.net/shop/williams-wpc-complete-speaker-kit-swtr-hf/)
- color dmd (http://shop.colordmd.com/colordmd-replacement-display-for-theatre-of-magic-pinball-machine/)
Great Gearbox cleaning thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/if-your-tom-trunk-is-acting-up-clean-the-gear-boxjunk-in-the-trunk

Can't wait to see it with the pinduino and hear your thoughts on it!

1 week later
#949 5 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

You guys might know this already but it is really easy glue an old cd motor onto the tiger saw. I simply hooked it up to the 12V trunk motor. Every time the trunk spins the saw starts to spin. The only hard part is to get it nice and center. The mod is free as we all have an old cd drive in a drawer somewhere.

Neat idea! Can you post some photos of your setup?

#951 5 years ago

Cool -- I remember seeing the fan motor, but haven't taken apart a CD drive to harvest the motor. Curious to know if you think your setup turned out better (or easier) than the fan motor.

1 month later
#1000 5 years ago

I just got a set of stickers for my ToM's inside cabinet. I really can't see installing those without taking playfield out, but if someone has photos of how to do it with the PF in, please post them.

#1005 5 years ago

Got my cab interior decals installed today. I did not take the play field out and use the wet method (Windex) to slide and position the decals. Worked out fine, but definitely not a lot of clearance to work them around.

image_(resized).jpeg

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#1007 5 years ago

This was my first time doing a wet decal install and Windex works quite well. I spray it on and the wipe it slightly with a paper towel to make sure all part are equally covered and not too wet. I did a second set of interior decals today (XMEN) and had an easier time given the experience with ToM.

I love the Pinduino for ToM. But then again, I create it, so I am a bit biased.

With the latest version of the Pinduino that plugs directly into J126, I updated the code to have more effects and think it works really, really well with the gameplay. Of course, I'm always open to ideas and happy to update the code further if anyone has any ideas.

#1010 5 years ago
Quoted from jyeakley:

I have it in mine and I love it! Highly recommended!

Great to hear that you are enjoying it!

Quoted from gliebig:

How frequently do y'all reach the wizard mode?

Probably once every six months to a year. It really takes a good game for me to get through all the illusions. Bashing the trunk is a dangerous shot and I rarely survive the 30ish shots it takes to qualify and start every mode. Also, I have buy-in and awards turned off for the trap door so I don't earn extra balls from there (set up for tournaments).

1 week later
#1019 5 years ago

Can't wait to hear how you enjoy the Pinduino Kit for ToM. Post some picts when you have your game fully customized.

Quoted from nickbuol:

I just put down a deposit for the Pinduino from lyonsden! Can't wait to get it in a few weeks and get it installed. Outside of a few minor "toys" I want to add, that pretty much leaves me with making it all "gold" (minus the coin door, which I still think looks better in black in my opinion)... Crazy to think that just a few months back it was all stock (after owning it since 1998) and how far things have come lately...

1 month later
#1065 5 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

Is that color For the Backbox or shooter lane?

Krylon black satin or semi is good.

#1066 5 years ago

For the brass ramp polishing, you can try Brasso metal polish. I've had good luck with it. But straight rust, you may to try Evaporust. There is a bit of a following here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cult-of-evaporust

#1070 5 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

But these are Two different blacks on the shooter lane and blackbox.

Yes -- you are correct. I was just quoting above and missed that I copied in two colors.

#1071 5 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

Will Brasso work for this?

I think it will. I had similar looking ramps on a Baywatch and it cleaned up quite nicely with Brasso.

#1074 5 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

So which color is for the backbox and which is for the shooter lane? or are those both for the backbox?

This is what I use for the backbox and cabinet

IMG_6131 (resized).jpg

#1077 5 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

Brasso smoothed out the wire but it still looks the same. At least it Will be smooth. I have one lock light that I keep getting to work and it keeps going out again. Any ideas what I can try?

If it is one of the twist bulb holders, there can be a pit in the solder plate on the board. You can reflow more solder on it to remove it. Or try a new/different twist socket.

#1084 5 years ago

I just use these and then cut any extra mylar off that is on the metal side rail with a sharp razor or exacto knife: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1870

#1086 5 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

Those stick on though right? So potential damage?

I've never tried to take them off and have had them on games for years. If you want to take them off, you may want to put some wax down first (playfield) and and also test on a different part of the game. I would imagine that you can pull up art from the cab similarly to that of a playfield.

3 weeks later
#1147 5 years ago

For me, I have a portion missing on the "Spirit Ring" insert below the Haunted Basement. While it sucks because it is the only major damage on the game, I'm fine living with it.

I have a friend who is a contractor and while he was doing some work on my house, I mentioned something that was bugging me with the way a room was finished by a previous contractor. His take was that if it was something that would bother me every day I saw it, I should fix it. If it didn't, I'd learn to live with it as no one else would notice. For that, I had to get it fixed just so I wouldn't feel annoyed every time I walked into that room.

If this has been bothering you for 10ish years, you need to fix the right way. Strip and send out the playfield, or buy one already refurbished. If you think about the $1000 over 10 years, it comes out to $8.33 a month for 10 years. Pretty low price to not feel annoyed every time you look at your favorite game.

IMG_6188 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#1209 5 years ago

I added spots using parts from pinball life. One is attached to the post for the left ramp return and the other I added a post above the right ramp return. Definitely help brighten the center of the game.

image (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpeg

#1219 4 years ago

For TOM's GI, I used http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm

Frosted caps, sunlight (color).

For inserts, you can color match, but the same LED as above works well for most of the inserts. It is worth getting flex heads for many of the side mounted sockets for the inserts: http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smdflexng.htm

#1230 4 years ago

Can you buy these and epoxy a shooter rod into them?

ebay.com link: POLISHED BRASS BALL Cabinet Drawer Pull Knob 1 PAIR by PLD

s-l500 (resized).jpg

#1238 4 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

The funny thing is that those look just like what I bought from Pinball Center. I would be somewhat surprised if they fit on a shooter rod without drilling the hole bigger. Maybe I will ask the seller for more info about the "hole"size as the shooter rod that I got with the gold ball is threaded too, so at least epoxy would have something to stick to. That said, the ideal situation if they aren't very durable would be to buy a bunch of them and just replace them as they wear off...

I have a feeling that many of the pinball mods are made like that. Of course, there are several people that really contribute something neat and new <cough>Pinduino<cough>, but so many of the "mods" are $1 crap from eBay drilled for an LED and some speaker wire dangling out with alligator clips.

#1249 4 years ago
Quoted from GreenMachine19:

Some restore pics just added Reese Rails. I polish every piece of visible metal ( I'm addicted to it). Nearly complete just have to finish the trunk. Adding the Ingo board. All new cool sleeves , cointaker leds etc. made a repair to the trunk base bracket adding reinforcement since mine was broken.

Looking very nice!

1 week later
#1279 4 years ago

I have one plug and play Pinduino kit built and ready to ship for ToM available (I made two when the last one was requested). Just PM me if interested.

#1287 4 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Oh, by the way, did you see that Lyonsden has a kit ready to go? Hit him up and buy it already!

Thanks for shout out. Looks like the extra kit I made is sold, but I'll be making more. Feel free to PM me to reserve a spot.

#1296 4 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

So do led's work on TOM or not so well. I keep reading old posts about dimming problems and needing a GI OCD. I was thinking of doing the GI lights in purple and then white for all the inserts along with purple rubber.

I have standard (not No Ghosting) LEDs in mine (warm -- twin SMDs from Comet) and think they look and work great. I don't have OCD boards, but the fading effects with those look great. It just doesn't make a big difference for me, but I understand why people do it. If you do the inserts, you'll probably want to get a lot of flex head LEDs due to the side mounting of many bulb sockets. Best to color match inserts, except for the yellow ones. I use warm white LEDs for those as the yellow LEDs are too dim.

#1298 4 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

OK. I must be missing it. I looked at my right ramp, and still couldn't figure out where that piece goes. I tried searching photos of other TOMs, and I must be overlooking it somehow.
UPDATE: I FOUND IT! I saw SOOO many photos that didn't show this piece at all...
This was back in post 250 in this thread... Courtesy of indypinhead

Missing on mine and I'm getting trail marks on it from the ball hitting. Can they be found?

#1301 4 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

I was planning on comet. So do they dim correctly or no? Will purple gi look good?

They will not dim correctly. In terms of colored GI -- that is completely up to you. Personally, I like everything white to make the playfield easier to see. I also add spot lights off the slings to help brighten the middle.

#1306 4 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

(oh, and the Pinduino needs to be connected to the backbox, but I want to wait until I can fire everything else up first before adding a new element to the mix).

Very good idea. Keep me posted as to how everything comes together and if you run into any problems.

1 week later
#1325 4 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

That would be cool if you could get it. any methods people used would really help.
Also I was messing around with 1.4hb making sure everything played the same. I was used to playing 1.2, but I figured the differences aren't noticeable. Then I hit the basement and it only awarded points it doing have the person going down the step like usual, and like usual didn't randomly pick an special item ex. (extra ball, digital pinball, spell magic, etc...). It just gave me points and kicked the ball back out. Tried 1.4h to make sure and it did the same thing. Went though the revision changes to make sure I didn't miss it and there was no mention of it. Looked though the options and there is no option to my knowledge.
don't know if having colordmd makes a difference.

If you happen to have it in tournament mode,the random awards are turned off and it just awards points. You may want to check that setting.

#1328 4 years ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

I finally got around to installing the tiger saw mod on mine.I'm running 1.2. Are the differences in 1.3 and 1.4 significant?
I also wonder if there should be a rubber at the top of the launch ramp? Thoughts?

No rubber at the top of the launch ramp, but you could but some deadening foam there.

From the release notes from 1.4H:

This is the Theatre of Magic 1.4 Home ROM. It supports the Magic Post and
Tiger Saw motor on prototype playfields. There are no adjustments to
control the behavior of these devices.

YOU NEED A #124 PIC TO USE THIS VERSION.

New coil assignments:
---------------------

Coil 19 = Drive to tiger saw EMI board. Use 12V supply for pin 3 of board.
Coil 23 = Flash drive for Magic Post.
Coil 36 = Solenoid drive for Magic Post (UL Flipper Hold).

1.40H u6.pp = CB14 10/31/96

....

The Tiger Saw runs during Tiger Saw mode and Tiger Saw Multiball. It also
spins briefly when the captive ball is hit.

#1329 4 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

ahhh.... that makes pefect sense. love this forum, thank you.
I know usually tournaments take away certain items but that seems like a pretty big perk to take away.
never used tournament mode in any game, I understand what it is, but never really understood how to enable it in bally/Williams games. I just assumed you had to push another button or combination of buttons, similar to stern games.

It is set under the standard feature menu: A.1 26

Screen Shot 2016-11-28 at 7.13.55 PM (resized).png

#1335 4 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

I'm thinking 2smd bulbs from comet, but the 2 flex head bulbs are literally double the price

I used a lot of single SMD flex heads for ToM on the sideways mounted sockets, but used the doubles for lighting Grand Finale in the middle of the PF. It is a large insert light by two side-mounted 555s.

#1338 4 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

I thought you had said you used 2smd all around the game?

Sorry for the confusion -- yes, I do use 2smd for nearly all of the standard 555 and 44s with frosted caps, but for flex heads, I usually use a single 5050 LED and occasionally, the double flex heads. The images are taken from Comet: http://www.cometpinball.com/category-s/1818.htm

2SMD-CT-FT-1 (resized).jpg

2SMDFLEXNG-1 (resized).jpg

1SMDFLEXNG-1 (resized).jpg

#1339 4 years ago

Here are a couple of pics from my playfield. You can see the heavy use of flex heads, the double flex for Grand Finale, and the others in the black screw sockets are twin 2835.

image (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpeg

#1347 4 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

In the club! Quick question regarding trunk Eddy board...
Mine needs constant readjustment (every couple games trunk stops registering). I want to slap in an auto sensing one but pinbits is out of stock. Is it worth the wait, or should I just order a new standard one from Marcos?

Welcome to the club! Definitely go for the auto-sensing one from pinbits. Worth it to not have to worry about them again.

#1354 4 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Thanks for the tip. Will hold out. Hopefully I won't destroy it like I did your board!!!
I think I fixed it temporarily by twisting the pot back and forth for a while. Played a solid ten games and worked fine. Is it worth it to upgrade the ball save magnet boards as well?

Glad to help and no worries about blowing the pinduino -- I'm going through its design to put in a protection component so it doesn't happen to others.

#1358 4 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Because I'm a moron haha.
I was super careful with the install, put everything back together... everything looked great. By this time it was 1 in the morning and I was getting a bit tired. All I had to do was connect everything to the board...
The board itself literally has 2 inputs, one for power, and one going out to the LED strips. This genius managed to reverse them and sent power to the wrong part of the board. It's very easily avoidable and preventable, just make sure you closely follow the instructions and you'll be fine.
BTW lyonsden has graciously offered to send me another one, so his support is second to none. In future revisions I believe he's looking into making each connector unique so future idiots don't repeat my mistake haha.

No worries and it something that another person did as well (I think, they never confirmed if they reversed the plugs). The way I have the board designed is that if you plug the power into the LED, it sends 12V through the GND of the system and blows the Arduino and fries the first LED on whatever other LEDs are plugged in (esp. if they are plugged into the power port). So this has led me to do three things:
1. Big warning to double/triple check the plugs before powering on (put on the top, middle, and bottom of the instructions -- thanks GB for the idea)
2. Find another plug/header so they can't be swapped as easily
3. Put a blocking diode into the circuit of the LEDs so current can't go backwards in future board designs. This will take some time to design, order, test, etc., so I don't expect it get this done for a while.

Also, your new pinduino is in the mail and should be there by the weekend!

#1359 4 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Wait, what? How did his Pinduino get blown?
I have been "less than motivated" to get mine finished being connected since I am still waiting on those last 4 brass parts to be redone, so I am lacking motivation. Plus with Thanksgiving travel and Christmas coming, it has been really busy, but what do I need to watch out for when I do finally get my last four parts back (man, still can't believe that I haven't played my Tom since early August when I removed my metal bits to be sent off for plating).

If you happen to blow yours, just let me know and I'll send you another. Otherwise, just make sure that power is connected to 'PINHEAD' and LEDs to 'ADR-X1' (the latter should be renamed, but stands for Addressable LEDs port X1).

#1370 4 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

Thank you. So everyone is using flex bulbs here. Thats what I'm planning, but talking to comet, they said that the 2smd horizontal works better than the flex. Is this just nonsense?

For the side mounted bulbs, use flex heads. For the others, use the twin 2835.

#1371 4 years ago
Quoted from smiley:

not sure what those are. I used Pinballlife bulbs when I did mine.

These guys: http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm

2SMD-CT-FT-1 (resized).jpg

#1373 4 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

Thats what I was planning, but when I asked comet, the guy said he tried the flex and the 2smd in the side mounted slots and said the 2smd looked better in the side mounted

Hmm. . . since I have a bunch of comet LEDs and all of the LEDs in question, I just did the comparison. I don't think it really comes out well in the photos, but if you want bright, well lit inserts for those side mounted 555s, go with the flex heads.

side mounted flex heads 5050
IMG_6472 (resized).JPG
IMG_6471 (resized).JPG
IMG_6478 (resized).JPG

side mounted twin 2835
IMG_6474 (resized).JPG
IMG_6477 (resized).JPG

#1374 4 years ago

Colors were the same:
warm white for "straight jacket"
cool white for "spell theatre"
purple for "vanish"

1 week later
#1394 4 years ago

For WPC resets, this is an excellent resource telling what and how to check: http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

#1402 4 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I know that this isn't helpful to the issues that are being had, but I am so excited.
After almost exactly 4 months, all of the brass plated pieces are back, and I finished putting everything together tonight (including the Pinduino).
I've gotten super lucky I think through all of this. No left over parts (bolts, nuts, etc), everything but 1 LED fired up without any errors and that LED was just bumped loose. Super fun playing the machine again. Only could play 1 game as we are prepping for a big youth group Christmas party for my daughter in less than 2 days, so there is a lot of other things to do.
Machine looks great. The only thing that I want to go back and undo is the entrance ramp. I put a piece of clear mylar over it to try to protect it from the ball making a grove of sorts. It doesn't look clean enough to be worth it. With the party coming, it will have to stay for now.
I know, pictures are needed. I have a cheesy video (sorry for the music. My wife and daughter were chatting with me during the video.)
» YouTube video

Looks great! Congrats on a well done job!

#1407 4 years ago
Quoted from UltraPeepi:

What's up with my trunk target?
I took the trunk off, and I don't really see why there is a gap above the target. Is the target supposed to be that low / close to the playfield?
Help.

It looks like someone rotated the magnet plate 180 degrees on your trunk at some point. The sticker has a wear line from the ball hitting it at the top that was caused when it was mounted the other way. Not sure if that exacerbates the gap showing at the top.

#1418 4 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Have you played much TOM? You're welcome to come over and put some time on mine if you want.

Both are good flow games, but have very different feels and rules. If you like more depth and strategy (and a third flipper), SM. If you like magnets and shallow, ToM. I've had both in my collection and ToM has stayed (in no small part due to it being my wife's game). Personally think ToM is a much better looking and sounding game, but SM has much better rules (and I am a fan of three+ flippers) and has more staying power in a home collection. In the end, spend some time playing both as they should both be relatively easy to find on location or at other collector's houses. Also, if you get either, they are both pretty easy to move if you watch to switch for the other.

#1422 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Looking for a coin return bezel as seen here. Mine's broken, and the flap is gone. Parts only, or the whole coin door I'm OK with. I have the coin mechs, but could replace the whole door anyway. Anyone have one they would part with?

I think these are them:
Bezel: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3736
Coin flap: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3737

#1427 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Thanks. I looked at that one, but it's a slightly different design with the extended upper portion. Bally/Williams used a unique bezel with the sharp chamfer across the outer edges, different from the ones Stern and DE used. Trying to go original.
FLASH: Just snagged a complete door on Ebay, complete and has a few parts I could use on some other machines. All is good.

Glad you found the parts. As an FYI, my ToM door has the bezel like the one from pinball life. Matches my NGG but my TZ is different. Maybe a replaced door at some point.

image (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpeg

#1430 4 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Is the TZ a reimport? Looks like my old TZ that I replaced the coin door on because I didn't like the one coin slot look.

The TZ is not a reimport and neither is the NGG. The ToM is probably a reimport.

#1436 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Looks like the ToM missing the upper right carriage bolt above the coin door?

Huh! Never noticed that before. Good idea to fill with a black bolt.

#1438 4 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Isn't that the bolt that holds part of the lock-down bar? I filled in all odd holes when I re-decaled by TOM a couple of months ago, and that hole definitely is used for a purpose. I am just not at home to take a look inside, but I believe that it is for the lockdown bar...
Either way, a bolt should go there anyway, whether for securing the lockdown, or for an easy fix to an open hole.

You nailed it. That is exactly what the missing bold in the hole is for. Either I've never noticed it, or the bolt fell out sometime recently. In any case, glad someone was asking about the door and I snapped a picture, or who knows how long I'd be missing it.

2 months later
#1683 4 years ago
Quoted from MajorHavoc:

None of my flashers seem to be working. Any ideas? FYI, no errors and all new LED's. Regular lamps don't work either.
Thanks!

Check the interlock switch as well.

1 month later
#1760 4 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I purchased (restored then sold) a TOM from a container. It was clear that the lighting was not modified. Those two inserts above the jet bumper area were green condom covered regular bulbs. Just like the bulb in the trunk.

That is how mine was before I converted to LEDs.

2 months later
#1836 4 years ago
Quoted from Tjohejsan:

Hello!
I just bought a ToM
When are the 2 drain save magnets supose to save the ball?
The magnets work fine in solenoid test and the switch test. And the Eddy sensors works fine.

When you hit the hocus pocus targets on the left, the insert will light up and start to flash. When it is on/flashing, the magnet saves will work (assuming they are adjusted correctly and sensing the ball).

3 weeks later
#1876 4 years ago
Quoted from Nilroc:

I need a replacement trunk. Broke a piece off it yesterday.
Anyone know where the best place to order a new one?

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/unbreakable-trunk-for-the-theatre-of-magic

Looks like they are ramping up for production.

#1943 4 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

And... Fuse F104 blew again!
Played about 20 games since replacing it, and in the middle of a game the ball eject would not like ad a ball into the trough.
Any idea as to why this fuse keeps going on me?

If you got 20 games in before it blew again, my guess is an intermittent short somewhere in that circuit. Check all along that circuit from the power driver board to the end. If nothing shows up, check areas that may come into contact with terminals along it. I recently had a similar issue with a Funhouse. Lower GI circuit would blow a fuse every 20 games. Turned out that the latch for the lockdown bar would hit the back of the light sockets for the coin door and cause a short, but only If I banged it with the game on (close the coin door hard after clearing a stuck ball.)

#1946 4 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Do you think this could have any relation to the burnt JI20 connector?

Hmmmmmm... Interesting. So replacing the magnet resolved your fuse issue?

Definitely replace the burnt connector. It probably won't solve the problem, but it definitely isn't helping and needs to be replaced.

#1968 4 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Just took apart my trunk, and I think part of the issue I'm having has to do with the trunk wiring. Was looking up part A-20029, but looks like it's sold out everywhere.
Does anyone happen to have one of these for sale?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-20029

Making/fixing a wiring harness is a good set of skills to learn. This one doesn't look too bad to make from scratch (and practice your soldering skills.)

1 week later
#1986 4 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Anyone know if I can get a replacement part for the slingshot switches (part number A-17801) from PinballLife.com?
They have nothing matching that part number, but they do have a bunch of switches. I'm ordering a few parts from their site, so we hoping I could get this there as well.
Thanks.

Pinball Life carries them, but you need to solder your own wires connecting them: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=616

#1993 4 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Do some of the kits come with dimming ability?

Add this inline with the power to the LEDs to add dimming controls:

ebay.com link: Low profile Inline Controller Dimmer Switch for LED Strip Light Bare Wire

#2009 4 years ago

The ball guide on mine runs on the inner side of the black pst (opposite side as yours in the picture.)

#2041 4 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Looking to change the LED lighting, and love how this looks below. What do you guys suggest for color choices? Looks like they've gone with a lot of purple and red under the GI plastics? And maybe bright white under the inserts?
Also, in this video from Namsan, his gorgeous TOM looks to be using some blueish bulbs. Maybe cyan?
» YouTube video
Any suggestions would be appreciated

Warm or sunlights on top, colored matched LEDs for red/blue/green inserts. Yellow/orange inserts get sunlight and warm LEDs, respectively.
Note: you will want to order flex heads for many of the inserts due to many light sockets being mounted parallel to playfield.

#2044 4 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

So are you saying that the examples above that look really purple, are using warm LEDs on the GI under plastics?
From the photo, it looks like there are purple LEDs, especially around the lane guides.

No -- they are using purple LEDs in the GI. Not my preference to do that and I was just sharing my preference (using warm or medium whites).

1 month later
#2182 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Hi all
About to join the club! After looking through posts here I'm trying to decide which mods are best to add. The 3D translite looks great and Tiger Saw mod looks like a good add. Any others that are a "must"?

I build these interactive lighting kits for the ramps on ToM: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1025-professor-pinball/00258-tom-pinduino-interactive-lighting-kit

One of my favorite designs for the Pinduino. PM me if you have any questions about it.

#2184 3 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I LOVE my Pinduino on my TOM.
I have a number of mods, but my 4 favorite in no particular order are:
LEDs
ColorDMD
Pinduino
Motorized Saw (because EVERYONE seems to have one)
Best "value" in my opinion is a tie between the LEDs and Pinduino.
Most noticeable with the game idle, ColorDMD, during a game, Pinduino.
Hopefully that helps. Almost everything else is easy/cheap like chains for the trunk, flipper bats, other "toys".
Brass plating is a really nice touch that I did earlier this year when I tore my TOM down to repair the cabinet and re-decal it. The re-decal isn't a mod, and it took a LONG time to get things just right, but so nice. The brass pieces on the playfield look great, and the ones on the cabinet really dress it up, but that was the single most expensive mod/upgrade that I did and I would say that it is the least impactful to overall enjoyment of the game.
There are a number of improvement pieces out there for the game too. Auto-eddy boards are NICE. Battery eliminators, power fix daughter boards for when you have too many mods (LOL), upgraded opto board (Leon's Fix) is great too.

You have one the best looking ToMs out there (and put in the hard work to make it so nice!)

2 weeks later
#2203 3 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

These were easy to install and I think they look great. A few photos plus one after I added Tilt Graphics blades and arch magnet.

Quoted from nickbuol:

Looks good. Hard to describe the look to people and the impact on game play with still shots, or even video, but the Pinduino is the most game impacting thing that I've added to my TOM.

Thanks for the complements on the Pinduino for ToM. If anyone has any questions about this kit, feel free to PM me.

#2214 3 years ago

All balls can magnetize over time, but balls with the lowest retention of magnetism will be carbon steel.

These are good:http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-5

These are not so good for games with magnets: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-SJ

1 month later
#2306 3 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Does the latest ROM have a different wizard mode?

Unfortunately, no.

3 years later
#3226 7 months ago

Just finished replacing the playfield in my Theatre of Magic and added Pinduino controlled GI:

Code: https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches/tree/master/Theatre_of_Magic_interactive_ramps_v2_GI

Let me know if anyone wants any info on how to make something like this for their game or what I did to mine when replacing the playfield.

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