Groton, CT
I saw a prototype of a 3D printed tiger but it never went to production. I forget the name of the thread.
(Topic ID: 43909)
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Theatre of Magic
Bally, 1995
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4 weeks later
2 weeks later
Quoted from Robl45:All the parts are there. I set it to 6.5 degrees. The bulbs are random it seems. Two in theatre a few for the magic acts etc. There is also a magic post flasher that seems to be out. Where is the magic post? For the ramp, the ball just doesn't seem to want to go smooth. Don't know how to better describe it. Maybe like this. Shots that definitely have the power to get around the ramp are falling in the hole so I thought maybe it wasn't leveled right but I checked and the level is just about as good as it gets. Those shots Tend to be kind of banging into the side of the ramp as it goes up instead of nice and smooth like the center ramp.
I know what you mean. There is a wire form switch part way up the ramp. This keeps the ball from coming back down the ramp and diverts it to the hole in the ramp. Sometimes when I shoot the right ramp the ball seems to get hung up on that wire form and prevents it from getting that ramp shot. I think that is normal. Maybe a different wire form shape to prevent it from hanging up?
2 weeks later
Best pop bumper LEDs? I'm restoring a ToM now, I'm thinking orange afterburners. Any recommendations?
1 month later
We also love the ColorDMD in our ToM. Just got the FT 3D translite today and installed it. Have to get the one for ToM as well.
Some restore pics just added Reese Rails. I polish every piece of visible metal ( I'm addicted to it). Nearly complete just have to finish the trunk. Adding the Ingo board. All new cool sleeves , cointaker leds etc. made a repair to the trunk base bracket adding reinforcement since mine was broken.
1 month later
I am in the tail end of a complete tear down and rebuild. I cut down the four posts that hold the trunk to make it sit closer to the bottom of the trunk bracket.
Quoted from FlippyD:Would love to see a pic of your results. I've been thinking of doing the same thing. How much did you take off? Still have enough clearance with the playfield?
I took an 8th off. The trunk does not protrude below the bracket it's just a tighter fit. The bracket is still at the same height.
1 week later
Just finished a complete tear down shop job. New items added:
-ColorDMD
-Full coin taker LED kit
-pinbits auto eddy boards
-stainless steel ramp flaps(polished to a mirror shine)
-all visible cabinet hardware replaced with polished stainless
-Reese rails
-3D translite
-Ingo trunk board
-pingraphix blades
-all new titan silicone rubbers
-all coils removed cleaned and new sleeves installed
-rebuilt flippers
-lockdown bar receiver polished to a mirror and new decals installed
-legs evaporust and polished, bolt heads polished new leg leveled polished
-all visible metal on top of playfield polished to a mirror.
-cleaned and regreased trunk gearbox with superlube.
Probably missing a few more things that I did. I went over every inch of this machine and it was out of commission for a few months due to work schedules. Nothing more satisfying in this hobby than powering up the machine for the first time and have everything work right away.
The blades are made of vinyl so they are pretty tough. I'm just mindful and lift the playfield carefully.
2 weeks later
Maybe some one already knows. Does anyone know the specifics on the trunk motor? It says 12 vdc 20 rpm. I'm guessing that must be the output of the gearbox. Looking for the rpm rating of just the motor. To maybe find a suitable replacement. I already purchased one from kimballs pinballs, the gear is smaller than stock. The output shaft is smaller than stock. When I install it in my gearbox it slips because of the gear size. If I can find a suitable replacement COTS, I can put my stock output shaft gear on it. I already had a full replacement unit that's in service now but would like to refurb my original to keep as a spare.
I've done a little research and the closest I've been able to locate so far is RC car motors. I'm guessing approx. 4500 rpm? Based on powering up my Kimballs version of the motor on the bench. I wouldn't expect him to spill the secret he is selling his for 50 or 80 dollars I can't remember. Currently this is the only place to find just the motor which I cannot get to work. The output shaft of stock is somewhere between 2.3 to 2.34 mm. The kimballs version is very close but the ID of the stock gear is slightly larger the its output shaft. Because of this the stock gear slides right over the output shaft and spins freely, no good. This would all be a no never mind if the kimballs output shaft gear had a larger OD so that it wouldn't slip.
Parallel path. Has anyone had success "cleaning" out the stock motor, or is it simply worn out. Bench testing of the stock 1995 motor revealed sluggish action, noisy, crunchy for the first few seconds of operation if that makes any sense. I did a side be side test ands it's clear the issue is the motor not the gearbox. I previously regreased the gearbox with the superlube. And did it again when it would stick half way during test games after the resto. I assume there is a watchdog timer associated with the optos where if it doesn't "see" the next switch it disables the trunk action. Game assumes the trunk is jammed and tries to prevent damage to the game. It also produces an odor when spooling up on the bench, like an old drill motor. Don't know if this is recoverable or not. I am considering tossing it in the ultra sonic cleaner with some purple power to see if I can get any more life out of it.
I will share anything I can figure out. My goal is to come up with an affordable, working solution. I could just buy another gearbox/motor combo as they are still available but at $280 plus shipping this is just crazy. I have a motor coming that I got for about $6 on eBay. I will update in this thread unless the club thinks it belongs in its own thread. And if I'm retracing anyone else's steps please chime in.
Quoted from ramegoom:Do a web search for small DC motors. These are commonly used in rechargeable hand drills.
This looks close. I found the 6 dollar motor on eBay. It's for RC cars and specs a 2.3 mm output shaft OD. I also looked at the stock a little closer and see what looks like homemade "splines" using a very small sharp chisel to slightly deform the shaft to make it a little bigger. If I can find the right chisel at work, and the guts to attempt it, I may do this to the Kimballs version of the motor I have in hand. Really 3 ways to fix this. Find a new motor that I can press the gear on. Find a new gear that fits the motor I have. Or modify the motor I have to except the stock output shaft gear. I've also thought of maybe tinning the shaft to add a little meat to it. Not sure which is the best way to go.
Quoted from Robl45:green or red loctite or superglue should put the gear on there. Common with little RC helicopters.
I just can't imagine this is a viable option
I'm making a guess that the original motor was splined by hand at the factory based on its appearance. I think I will attempt this on the cheap motor I have coming in.
Trunk motor update:
Disassembled stock trunk motor. Cleaned the inside using low VOC lectra clean to prevent the destruction of the plastic end bell. Reassembled motor. Tip: either match mark end bell to motor case before disassembly. Or do a bump test to verify polarity. 90 degrees out will cause it to spin backwards. Performed a before and after test using a stroboscope. Before noisy and crunchy. After purrs like a kitten. Almost zero noise. And gained some RPMs. I took it apart because I wanted to know what was wrong. I think if you didn't want to take it apart you could just flush it with the lectra clean and be ok.
If you opt to take it apart you'll need a paper clip to hold open the brush support spring arms. This is probably all I needed to do and this would probably work fine. I'm still interested in locating an affordable option to just replace with new so the research continues. The kimballs motor pulls 4100 rpm on the scope with exactly 12vdc. The stock is approx. 3500 rpm. Remember this is 22 years old. I found an Epson printer motor that would probably work spins at 3400. I know that when I put in my spare gearbox the trunk moved noticeably faster during gameplay. I've also found there is 2 different versions of gearbox floating around because I have both.
1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from nickbuol:Really? Wow. I never would have guessed that. I wonder how they got reversed... So odd....
I never would have guessed either. Sounds like previous owner trying to make repairs and just made things worse for themselves. Easy mistake to make if your not paying attention. Red dot on motor gets the black wire.
Quoted from nickbuol:I just bought some small brass chain from Home Depot or Lowes, I can't remember. It was a good amount, like 25 feet for $8 or so. Enough to make about 4 full trunk sets. It came in one of those clear plastic packages that hangs from store displays. I then found some tiny locks from Etsy (thanks to my daughter). That, plus a pair of needle-nose pliers is all you need.
Cost for parts to make about 4-5 of these things was about $15 - $20. I have a picture somewhere in this thread. I will see if I can find it.
Found it. This was on my old broken trunk. It fits nice and snug without any screws, glue, plastic bits, etc. Was somewhat tricky to remove and put on to the replacement trunk, which is perfect for fit.
I am not a fan of the chain "mod" I've seen around for sale. That being said this looks really good. It looks like it should have come stock with the game. Very classy.
1 month later
Quoted from weaverj:your wives play pinball?
We play a couple games of ToM and FT almost everyday. She refuses to play STTNG.
2 weeks later
Quoted from jsa:I'm curious, are there any colored incandescents?
Yes there are. I have green incandescent 555 in my trunk and a red under the right ramp magnet
Quoted from DumbAss:I purchased (restored then sold) a TOM from a container. It was clear that the lighting was not modified. Those two inserts above the jet bumper area were green condom covered regular bulbs. Just like the bulb in the trunk.
Ok I see what you mean. Yes I had clear lamps with green rubber caps on them. I converted to LED and put in green LED's when I restored the machine. It was obvious to me that those bulbs were original when I removed them. It appeared to me that previous owners never went past the easy to get to areas for cleaning.
3 weeks later
I must be really lucky. I've had the same trunk from when I bought the game about 3 to 4 years ago. Our family plays it almost everyday. Not a single chip.
4 months later
Quoted from nickbuol:I don't know. Looking at one of their own pictures from yesterday, these don't look good "enough" for me to pay the price. There is a lot of "thin" gold layer on these that make those parts look more like silver than gold.
I think that is just the way the flash hit it. I have some coming in and I will post pics/video/review of the result.
1 week later
Quoted from Bluemedgroup:Sorry if I missed if someone previously had this problem. But I have a TOM and greater than half the time it does not register the ball going into the trunk hole. I went into diagnostics and everything is working fine when I do switch test. I.E. the magic trunk opto board works, the subway micro switch #47 works, and the 3 switches in the subway work as well (I can't remember which number they are but I believe they are 41, 42, 43).
Any thoughts about how to fix? Again, sometimes it registers when the ball goes in the trunk hole, sometimes it doesn't. Also, trunk hits register every time as the eddy is dialed in correctly.
Have you cleaned the trunk hole opto? If so maybe time to replace.
There is an opto that registers when a ball goes into the trunk. There is only one opto, transmitter and receiver. The game only knows a ball went into the trunk if this opto sees it. After that opto there are 3 subway switches that the ball sees. Once you start multi ball the subway has to see all three switches made up before spitting them all out. Your problem has to be either the trunk opto, 1 or more of the subway switches, or possibly the trap door switch. All of these switches are in play when you dunk a ball into the trunk, front, side, or back doesn't matter. Ball goes into the trunk it has to pass the opto to get to the subway. Having one of the subway switches bad causes goofy problems with the game like it doesn't know where all the balls are and goes into ball search which causes the game to spit balls out of the trap door.
The eddy sensor is located in front of the trunk and registers trunk hits. It does not tell the game a ball went into the trunk. The only way the game knows a ball actually went into the trunk is the opto. It is physically located just slightly in front of the trunks forward most opening under the play field (obviously)
I've had dirty optos,intermittently failed subway switches, and intermittent trap (basement) door switch. I replaced all the physical switches and cleaned the optos when I did my full tear down. Game has been flawless ever since. Also if your trap door struggles to get balls out of the basement get rid of that plunger return spring, gravity doesn't need assistance.
1 month later
Quoted from billsfanmd:anyone have any luck painting their plastic stock saw blade to make it shiny gold? I'm doing the home made spinning saw blade tied to trunk motor.
My mirror gold saw blade was scratched on the mirror tape side when I bought it. So sanded and sprayed the stock blade with a textured grey spray paint. Came out pretty nice you can actually see it spinning better.
2 months later
I replaced my trunk light with a 555 G incandescent bulb. I like it better than the condom. Still green and flashes better than an LED. I replaced my under magnet light with a 555 R incandescent. Rest of the game has cointaker LED’s
2 weeks later
I wouldn’t loctite anything trunk related. If you absolutely feel like you have to, use green or blue.
2 months later
5 months later
Yes it’s a common problem. Remove the spring from the popper coil. No need for a spring return let gravity do the work. I had the same issue. Never came back after I pulled the spring.
2 months later
1 month later
The condoms are ok but I put in colored incandescent 555 bulbs in there and it looks great. Also under the upper left magnet that yanks the ball off the ramp. I put a red one in there. I like it better than the condoms.
4 months later
Quoted from harryhoudini:Anyone done the rad cals? I am wondering if they will look out of place given the original finish of the vinyl decals. I have the side rails off now anyhow so I could just do the vinyl, it's cheaper. I wonder what the minimal prep is that has to be done, does it have to go back to bare wood?
I've read that they go on below the side rails.
2 months later
Today was my last day in the club. A bitter sweet ending to my second longest owned game. Miss it already but ready for something new! Great transaction with great dude. Thanks Rich!
Btw I have some replacement gearboxes and motors left over shoot me a PM if interested. Cleaned relubed, new motors and output shaft gears. Bench tested to 22 rpm.
2 years later
Quoted from zhu808:I suspect J120 on the power driver board.. when I reseated the connector, that seemed to solve an earlier issue I had with the lower playfield lamps not coming on... (This is currently the case again now, too...) I think I want to try rewiring the connector back to IDC (everything else is) because I feel like what I have now isn't making good contact... Not to mention pin 7 has overheated, or IS overheating for some reason. Any thoughts? Maybe the pins weren't crimped properly and there's an arc between the wire and the molex(?) pin? Is that possible? EDIT: I also want to note that J121 has also been molexed; it controls the G.I. inserts...
[quoted image][quoted image]
Did you try using the trifurcan crimps? the ones that come in contact with the post on 3 sides in stead of 1? a tighter fit and less contact resistance and less over heating.
7 months later
Quoted from altan:I'm in the minority here (or the silent majority, who knows)... IMHO most people, generally, should stay away installing NVRAM. Get Energizer Lithium batteries and you are good to go.
I don't have a problem with NVRAM, but I know people skilled with soldering that messed up their boards by breaking traces during the install.
NVRAM is great if you are very good at desoldering/soldering and will not miss the (infrequent) side effects such as no accurate time on TZ or no real midnight madness on those games.
This is accurate for some people. You run a risk of lifting a trace when de-soldering. I think many people feel the need to salvage the original RAM and try to de-solder the whole thing and remove it. You need to get over that and clip the RAM out and de-solder the pins one at a time and remove them. This eliminates 99% of the risk of lifting a trace. If you lift a trace it’s because it’s still attached while you are pulling on it. I managed to lift only one trace on FT that I had to jumper to repair. It’s on the back of the board so you can’t see it. On ToM, I cut it out then heated each socket hole individually and pulled the tabs out one at a time. Zero mistakes. Then just clean up the hole and installed a socket to make it removable. Granted, I solder electronics at a nuclear power plant with 60’s technology, but even a newbie could pull this off. To me, it’s harder to get the CPU/MPU out of the game than doing this.
4 months later
Quoted from Goalie:Has anyone seen the acrylic version of his translites? Is it a noticeable difference? I wish he had a 3D version, that tiger would look awesome.
I had the 3D translite for this game. It wasn’t great. My wife hated it. She said it looked blurry. I really like that alternate art. I too have the acrylic on my CCr and love it. Don’t really care for the AFMr or MMr versions otherwise I would have those too. Too much trolls on MMr and too much aliens on AFMr. The Fishtales one is amazing.
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