Re-joined the club today!

Is this right? It doesn't look right.

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I know, it just got here and it's filthy all over. I'm Just wondering what the correct post and plug are.

Were the gold wire ramps powdercoated from the factory or were they plated?

The moving tiger saw is a must.

How do you remove the magnet core from the spirit ring assembly? I want send it out to get plated

Is it glued onto the ring?

I'm surprised no one has made a 3D tiger to replace the flat plastic.

Yeah, that looks awesome. I'm surprised no one else has cashed in on that.

Where can I get one of those spirit rings?! Mine is all chewed up

Use the Stern metal ones. If you use the plastic pincab protectors they will wrinkle your decals

Ron brassed the entrance ramp on mine including the flap. Looks awesome

I believe that goes on the right post on the right ramp, holding down the end of the clear plastic.

It says 124 on it so I'm going to guess J124.

Got my 3D translite today. Wow it's awesome, really well made and has a great 3d effect. Highly recommended.

I would buy one

I personally would prefer to not have lights in the eyes. So maybe an option, or at least a color option.

To me the stripes and the paint on the face look weird. Look at the stripes on this picture. Long lines on the body and very few near the paws/forearm. A lot more white on the face and eyes, and belly.

Also the toes on the paws are spread too far apart.

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I’m trying to rejoin the club if anyone has a good quality example they’re looking to part with.

Happy to say I just rejoined the club, but having an issue with the basement. If the balls are locked and multiball starts, the basement kicks out 2 balls, but fails to kick out the 3rd. The basement opens and closes but no ball. After 1 ball drains, the basement kicks out the 3rd ball.

It’s on rom 1.3. I haven’t seen it fail to kick out a ball in any other scenario. I’m not seeing anything in the subway that would hold it up.

Thanks, i’ll check it out.

Ok it looks like the 3rd ball is getting stuck on the last switch on the left side. I will try to bend it a bit.

Next, the light on the trunk doesn’t work. I’m pretty sure this unplugged wire is the reason. But I cant find a matching plug for it. Any ideas where it goes?

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This is the third ToM I own. They have all had that square plug unplugged.

I’m still dealing with the basement not kicking out balls in multiball. I bent the wire on the last switch and it didn’t make a difference. I have to shake the machine super hard side to side in order for the ball to feed into the basement mechanism. If the balls are magnetized would they stick to the switches? I’ll try swapping them out just in case.

Yeah all the switches register. The balls get physically stuck. I’m guessing the first ball feeds fine because it has momentum. Once all three stack up, the 3rd ball gets stuck on switch 3 because it’s trying to move from a stop or slow speed. Which is why I’m wondering if the balls being magnetized is making them stick together or to the switch or something else.

I tried increasing pitch today, didn’t help. Maybe i’ll try adding more, it’ll be past 7 degrees at that point.

This machine is turning out to need more work than advertised.

Trunk light- Thanks for the pics 2pupPinz it helped me trace the wires, found the plug that matched bundled inside the nest of wires. Plugged it in… light still doesn’t work.

Bent the wires on the switches in the basement ball lock trough. It’s hard to move the ball through the switches with my fingers. The balls get stuck between the first and second switch. I wonder if the right switches are installed. Are they supposed to be long flat blade switches, like the ones used on spinners? Right now it has big hook switches like the rollover kind.

While testing the trough, the trunk stopped registering hits. Then I ran a ball over the left outlane sensor and the trunk registered a hit. It does have auto eddy boards installed. I can’t get it to happen every time. Anyone dealt with this?

The balls were magnetized, so I swapped them out.

Ok closing the loop on this one. here are the things that resolved the problems:

Ball getting stuck in the subway trough. Bending the wire on the first switch to be just a little flatter, fixed it. Not a big bend just slightly.

The trunk registering hits when the magna saves turned on- The connector on the harness to the trunk eddy board was bad. It detected hits from the vibration. New plastic connector on the wires fixed it

Thanks for the help.

My machine came with a pretty terrible tiger blade, I think they tried wrapping it with gold colored vinyl, and it did not work. Does anyone have specs or a link to the real metal saw blade replacement?

Thanks, I would rather have a real one instead of the plastic. It's not like it's attached to a circular saw with enough torque to start cutting the cabinet into scrap.

Yeah I guess I'm just looking for size and arbor, or if there's a particular brand and model that fits best or doesn't have a lot of branding text on it.

What does it do in test mode, does it turn all the way? Go in switch test and see if the trunk registers the hit when it’s turned

Color matched inserts look good, color matched GI looks bad. For GI I would go all soft white. LED OCD and GI OCD are a must.

Speaking of LEDs I have three insert lights (shoot again, hat magic, and the second T in theatre) that don’t turn off all the way, they dim a little but won’t turn off. I tried new bulbs but I get the same result. Anyone know what might be the problem?

So I have an LED OCD and GI OCD boards installed. All bulbs are comet 2smd. I tried replacing the bulbs for new ones, and moved the bulb to other spots not ghosting, same result on the same three spots. Unfortunately I don’t have any incandescent bulbs to test.

It’s worth a shot, i’ll sand the ground lug a bit.

I hope that’s not it, my skill set is not good at that level of figuring out issues. All three lights are on different rows/columns on the matrix. Would that rule the diode theory out, or make it more likely?

In single lamp, when I test one lamp, one or two others will light up as well but a bit dimmer. So if I test the first “T” both of the “Special” lights will light up. If I light the middle trunk hit bulb, the Hat Magic will also turn on. It happens with quite a few lights.

Thanks I appreciate the feedback and guidance. I had the same thought on the OCD, and the issue still occurs with it removed.

Here’s the matrix

I noticed that on row 1, (T)heatre 11, turns on Special 81, and Trunk hit (2) 51, turns on Hat magic 71. If i chase the Red Brown wire from j133 on the driver board, i should find a diode at one of the sockets that controls the whole row, or should all the sockets have a diode?

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Thanks, that’s very helpful. I’ll get some time Tuesday to mess around with it again.

OK, new lead on this ghosting issue. The previous owner re-flowed and repaired things on the board. I have a strong suspicion that's where the problem is. I will take the board off and see what the back of it looks like when I get a chance.

Yeah it fixes the flashing and the dimming of the GI makes a huge difference, especially on games like ToM. It's night and day difference.

Does anyone know where I can find a replacement flap for the shooter ramp? I can find the flaps for the plastic ramps but not the shooter one.

Look at the ToM restoration pics on highendpins.com I use Chris’ pictures for reference all the time.

What is the correct color spring for the shooter rod on this game. I just swapped out the rod for a brass one that came with a red spring, but the ball doesn’t make it up the shooter ramp. I put the original grey one on it and around 25% of the time the ball won’t make it up the shooter ramp.

Looking to buy a 3D translite. Anyone with a 3D translite replacing it with the new Flyland version?

Has anyone seen the acrylic version of his translites? Is it a noticeable difference? I wish he had a 3D version, that tiger would look awesome.

Is it better than the regular translite? He claims the colors pop better on it

I had a3d translite on my previous machine. I really liked it, i wish they still made them, I haven’t been able to find another one for sale.

I’m back to dealing with the ghosting inserts on my machine. I can’t figure out what’s going on.

I replaced the power driver board with a brand new one from Victor. All the insert lights seem brighter now which is great, but the same inserts ghost as before. I have swapped bulbs, bulb holders, removed the led ocd boards. I don’t know what else it could be.

It’s happening with 2 different power driver boards, one of them is brand new. Are there more diodes for the lights aside from the ones on the driver board?

I’ve been looking for wireforms for the same reason, just so Chris can get a set to keep in stock to do swaps. It would be a big benefit to ToM owners.

Which also leads me to ask, we are lucky to have people that make plastic ramp reproductions, but no one seems to make wireform reproductions. Are they too difficult to make or too expensive, or both? Or just not enough demand? I have zero knowledge what it would take to do something like that.