(Topic ID: 43909)

Theatre of Magic Club

By Nilroc

6 years ago

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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by ADL525
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#1846 2 years ago

Anyone in Canada looking to sell one that is in excellent condition, or I have a very nice example of an Indiana Jones Pinball Adventure for trade.

PM if interested.

3 weeks later
#1862 2 years ago

I'm about to join the club! Have a TOM heading my way.

I've read that there are some issues with the outlane magnets. Can anyone comment on whether the Eddy boards from Pinbits will completely resolve this?

And can you help me understand what the Eddy boards actually do. Is it just automatic calibration?


#1865 2 years ago
Quoted from Videogod:

The Eddy boards have a little pot switch (like a volume knob) that you adjust with a screwdriver to calibrate when the magnet is activated. I've never had a problem with the outbound Eddies, but I did replace the Trunk Eddy with the one from Pinbits, and it works great. No more recalibrating it every 3 months! I also recommend you replace the trunk board with the "Leon" board (do a search on Pinside). It's a tiny bit complicated to install but well worth it. The trunk won't get stuck halfway anymore.

Can you install the trunk and magnet boards, or only one or the other?

#1868 2 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Well, simplest way to answer this: You can install everything. I have the pinbit boards for the magna saves and the trunk eddy, and I have the Leon boards as well.

What's the install like on the 3 parts?

Also, can anyone point me to where I can order a non-breakable trunk?

#1892 2 years ago

Hey guys, I joined the club today and have a few issues already was hoping I could get some help with.

Firstly, when playing the game will start loading balls into the shooter lane. It loads two, and then you can hear it trying to load more but the third ball won't fit.

If the ball in play drains, it doesn't recognize it as the end of your ball. And when you shoot the other balls out, it just reloads more.

Eventually you're left with one, and it recognizes that the ball has drained.

I'm assuming this has something to do with the trough?

Any suggestions would be appreciated

#1894 2 years ago
Quoted from Mank:

Go to the switch test and check the trough opto switches

All optos show as "open".

Anything else I can try?

#1896 2 years ago

Played a few games tonight and the trough issue magically disappeared.

However, there is a "Left EOS" error on boot up. Any advice on what I should check?

Also, a couple of cosmetic questions. The photos show some nasty wear around the basement, and some chipping on the Lock insert. Any tips on how I can fix this?

And finally, I found this small part in the cabinet. Any idea what it is and where it goes?

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#1900 2 years ago
Quoted from Mank:

That's from a pop bumper.

Do you happen to have a photo?

#1901 2 years ago
Quoted from Drewblood419:

Left eos is your end of stroke switch on your left flipper assembly. You may need to adjust the switch.

Yes, I know that

I tried adjusting it and I still get the error. The coil stop was also bent a bit and I straightened it up but that also did not fix it. I may just replace the entire assembly.

Can anyone comment on the photos I posted with the Playfield blemishes. Wondering what I should do about the chipping on the insert and also the wood that is exposed?

#1902 2 years ago

Also found a bunch of the metal strips stapled to the of and wires soldered to them. I don't recall seeing this in my other machines. Any ideas?

Also, my lights on string 4 and 5 are completely out, and not getting any GI lights. Slingshot and under all plastics on the sides are out.


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#1908 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Those metal strips are flat wire leads that go to the pop bumper lights. If/when you rebuild the pop bumpers, you'll have to pull those out in order to remove the lights, which you'll have to do to remove the housing. You can/should replace them with leads that are just insulated wire
What's installed:
What you can replace it with

I thought it had something to do with the lighting since it was yellow wires connected to lights that were soldered to these strips.

Either way, is this not good to have?

Oh, and does anyone know if they make any sort of protector for the haunted basement? Mine is killing the pf.

#1910 2 years ago

Good resources there for sure!

Read the flipper one a while back and rebuilt the ones in my IJ. Going to try bumpers next!

Was just looking at the boards tonight to see if anything suspicious showed up and I noticed that there was a fuse missing on the main board. Also I noticed a couple of fuses that looked a bit rough. Can anyone comment on the photos.

Also is there one single type of fuse that is used on these boards? If so I may just buy a bunch and replace them also they're new.

Thanks for all the help guys. I just got the game and I'm also pretty new to the hobby. Trying to learn as I go.

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#1912 2 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Woah. Someone soldered that 15 amp car fuse onto that fuse. Not good. Also, below that, the connector that is crispy and brown is going to need changing. The manual will show you the value that each fuse should be. I wouldn't go by what that guy has in there now. All of your fuses look to have corrosion of some kind on them... I would buy an assortment to have on hand and replace them all with the correct values.

Holy shit, I didn't even see that when I took the photo! Yeah, going through this machine, there have been some questionable things.

I'm going to get all the fuses replaced, just in case. For the ones with corrosion, do I need to clean the connectors before putting new fuses in?

#1915 2 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

Yeah I would recommend going by the manual and not what the previous guy did! Also, look at your connector (first picture bottom second connector in from the right - JI21) as it has a bit of burn to it! Pull this out and inspect it. May be best to just replace it with a new one as you can see a previous owner already did some work on it by cutting the connector down by two wires and then adding a new 2 wire connector! It's a 11 pin connector so just get a new one and do it right! Inspect the pins while at it!
As for that 15A car fuse (F109).... that's supposed to be a 5A Slow Blow fuse!! So once you put the right fuse in there you may find a issue or two with the game that cause the 5A fuse to blow!
In case you don't have a manual ...
F106-F111, F113 - 5A S.B. 250v
F101-F105, F116 - 3A S.B. 250v
F112 - 7A S.B. 250v
F114 - 8A 32V
F115 - 3/4A 250v

Thanks for the info. Was going through the manual and made a list of the fuses I need. Are you saying that when I put the correct fuse in, it may blow?

Also, regarding the JI21 connector, what's involved in replacing it? I've never done it before.


#1917 2 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

It's a very good possibility! The person that put that 15a fuse in there was either using what he had at the time or he put in a high amp fuse to keep a known issue from blowing the 5a fuse! Without the schematics I am not certain that, that 15a fuse is connected to the JI21 connector. If it is then it could explain the connector overheating!

Well most people like to swap out the IDC Connector ( http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1603 ) you have with a locking connector like http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3452 . The problem with this is .... you then need a crimping tool to do all the contacts. Might be best to stick with the IDC connector and all you need is the 11 pin connector and the tool (http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1590) to push the wires in!
As for the pins.....if you don't know how to solder than you'll want to skip replacing the pins unless you see damage. If there is damage than send your board out to someone that can do it!

I actually just learned to solder when I replaced the flippers in my IJ, but when it comes to the board, I don't know that I'm that confident yet. Will likely call someone in.

So should I attempt to replace that car fuse with the proper 5A? What is the worst thing that could happen?

And does anyone know what JI21 affects in the game?

#1925 2 years ago

Can anyone tell me what is required to activate the magnets on the outlanes and the diverter?

Do you just hit the "hocus" and "pocus" targets? Trying to determine if mine are working properly.


#1929 2 years ago
Quoted from Spencer:

Sorry bud, but you got ripped big time if you didn't take $$ in return. Those boards/fuses are a total mess. The playfield is a total mess too.

You win some, you lose some. Don't need to tell someone they got ripped off. You had your chance to do the trade, and you kept dragging. Move on.

#1930 2 years ago

So I've replaced some fuses and have the GI on the left side of the playfield back online. Right still out.

In tests, Illumination String 5 isn't going on.

Not sure if JI21 is the culprit, but here's a photo.

Any suggestions?

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#1931 2 years ago

Update on last post. Cleaned fuse connectors a bit and now all lights are on.

New problem... The ball trough eject isn't working. Not putting balls in the game.

Also, the basement door in not opening.

Are they related? Any suggestions?

#1933 2 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Does the coil have power? Check the associated fuse.

Yup, you're right. Fuse in F104 just blew. I'll replace it tomorrow and see.


#1938 2 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

GP, Look at his previous pics and you can see the white/green wire is there just that the previous owner cut the connector and now has it setup as two separate connectors, a 9 pin and a 2 pin that make up the 11

Yeah, thanks for chiming in about that. I'm going to have the pin replaced on the board by a local tech, and then I'll consolidate that 9 pin connector to the proper 11 pin.

Classic example of making lemonade out of lemons here. I did not expect all these issues when trading for this machine, but it is what it is. Instead of bitching about it, I'm going to use it as an opportunity to learn more about pinball machines. It might take me a while, and I'll probably annoy most of you with all my questions, but I'll definitely walk away from this seeing it as a good experience

#1940 2 years ago
Quoted from german-pinball:

Oops, I did not see the previous pictures.
But nethertheless his wires are not at the correct places. This way the individual GI-strings get "mixed".
Your local tech should connect the wires the correct way:
white/yellow wire should go to Pin 9
white/green wire should go to Pin 10
white/violett wire should go to Pin 11

Yes there are probably a lot of issues like this in the game. I'm going to try to tackle them one by one. Trust me you guys will be hearing from me when I get to each of them. Right now I just want to get all of the fuses working so that I can actually play the game a bit.

#1941 2 years ago

I have a motorized saw in my game, and just curious when it's supposed to go off? Is it anytime you hit the captive ball or start Tiger Saw mode?

#1942 2 years ago

And... Fuse F104 blew again!

Played about 20 games since replacing it, and in the middle of a game the ball eject would not like ad a ball into the trough.

Any idea as to why this fuse keeps going on me?

#1944 2 years ago
Quoted from german-pinball:

Oops, I did not see the previous pictures.
But nethertheless his wires are not at the correct places. This way the individual GI-strings get "mixed".
Your local tech should connect the wires the correct way:
white/yellow wire should go to Pin 9
white/green wire should go to Pin 10
white/violett wire should go to Pin 11

Any way you could tell me what wires go where from left to right on this connector. I'm going to pull them out and reinstall them in the proper 11 pin molex, and then replace the pins on the board.

#1945 2 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

If you got 20 games in before it blew again, my guess is an intermittent short somewhere in that circuit. Check all along that circuit from the power driver board to the end. If nothing shows up, check areas that may come into contact with terminals along it. I recently had a similar issue with a Funhouse. Lower GI circuit would blow a fuse every 20 games. Turned out that the latch for the lockdown bar would hit the back of the light sockets for the coin door and cause a short, but only If I banged it with the game on (close the coin door hard after clearing a stuck ball.)

Do you think this could have any relation to the burnt JI20 connector?

Quoted from RVH:

As I recall these are also inline with the trunk magnet. When I bought my TOM I had the trap door stop working and blowing fuses and found the trunk magnet was the culprit as it was melted a bit.

Hmmmmmm... Interesting. So replacing the magnet resolved your fuse issue?

#1948 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Damien. I want to help you out man, bit you've got to help yourself. A lot of the answers you're looking for can be found in the manual or by looking under the pf yourself. That's really the best way to learn about and resolve your issues. If you've tried things and are still stuck, then please come ask, but looking at the manual is the best resource for you.

Yes, I've been referring to the manual. Sure, I didn't have to ask about the hocus pocus bit, but I don't think the manual can answer if a burnt magnet was causing fuse outages (as another member was saying) or when the motorized saw should turn.

I'm also very new to this hobby. I definitely appreciate all the people that take the time to help out, and there's definitely a bunch of you

#1951 2 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

If the coil burns and shorts, it can blow the fuse. Remove it from the circuit and see if the fuse stops blowing

When the fuse blows, the trough eject and basement door stop working. I suspect there could be other components. I have to check the manual to see what else is connected to F104.

#1953 2 years ago

Now it's even more confusing. F104 is blown, however, the ball trough is on F105?!?!

#1956 2 years ago

Just going over the machine a bit looking for potential issues. Does this appear normal?

The red/green wire is connected to a diode that connects to one end of the light bulb housing. The yellow wires is on the other bulb connector.

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#1958 2 years ago
Quoted from Frogman:

Come on, man. You're taking advantage of a good thing. It's not reasonable to hijack the thread with every question conceivable about your very specific machine. I agree with FatPanda that there are a lot of resources out there and and tons of threads on Pinside about troubleshooting, repair, restoration, etc. that can inform you.

And here I was hoping to learn some things about my machine... Take a look at someone like LTG, who generously chimes in and helps anyone at any level with any problem they have. That's the kind of people that make this a "good thing".

Sorry I hijacked "your" thread with question, man.

#1962 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I think what he was trying to say is that you might get more help if you posted in the tech forum. Yes, there are primarily ToM owners that post and follow this thread, but some of the problems you're posting here are universal across all WPC machines and you'll be able to get more help if your thread were more visible to the "outsiders."

And that sir, is helpful

Appreciate it. I'll try my luck there and see if I can get more answers to figure out this game.

With the last picture I posted of the trunks wiring however, I think is very specific to this thread. Just wondering if anyone can take a look at the wiring and see if it looks copacetic. Thank you all again.

#1965 2 years ago

Just took apart my trunk, and I think part of the issue I'm having has to do with the trunk wiring. Was looking up part A-20029, but looks like it's sold out everywhere.

Does anyone happen to have one of these for sale?


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#1982 2 years ago

Has anyone encounter this...

After locking 2 balls, when I shoot at the trunk magnet, it just bounces off and registers as a hit. The trunk rotates and returns to the magnet side, but won't grab the ball.

And the balls that end up going in get stuck in the subway behind the little metal post. The post won't clear the balls to the VUK under the basement door.

#1984 2 years ago

Anyone know if I can get a replacement part for the slingshot switches (part number A-17801) from PinballLife.com?

They have nothing matching that part number, but they do have a bunch of switches. I'm ordering a few parts from their site, so we hoping I could get this there as well.


#1985 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Check your fuses, check the switches and magnet in test mode.

Combed through the subway, and found that the diode on the ball release had split from the lug. Not sure what caused it, but I'll try to repair or replace it and hopefully that should fix the problem.

Also, traced wires from my Left EOS issues, and think I fixed it. Haven't seen the error come up in the last few boot ups, so hopefully that's one issue down.

1 week later
#2000 2 years ago

Would anyone be able to tell me the correct positioning for each wire on the 11 pin JI21 connector, or point me in the right direction. Can't seem to find it in the manual.

Thanks so much!

#2002 2 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Page 3-27 of the manual. Page 149/158 if you're looking at the PDF available online.

Awesome, thanks man!

One other thing, does anyone have any suggestions for protecting the pf from the basement door?

I'm going to be doing a pf swap eventually, and this is one area I'll definitely be looking to protect.

#2004 2 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Same as MM; Mylar around the opening is all you need.

Do you know of anyone selling a pre-cut mylar for it? Like Pinbits has the pre-cuts for MM which I ordered since I f'd up the factory one trying to trim it.

#2013 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Finally fully completed my TOM full restoration and posted more detailed pics of the process and finished product on the thread linked below for those interested in restores.

Absolutely gorgeous. I'm slowly restoring mine. I'll post before and after photos when it's actually finally done.

#2014 2 years ago

Quick question... I'm replacing the coil that raises and lowers the pin in the subway. The manual calls for AE27-1200, but the one in my machine is a AN26-1200 with a diode on it.

Can anyone comment on this. Wondering what the correct coil is, and if it needs the diode.


#2016 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

There are guys a hell of a lot smarter than me that would know but I'm pretty sure the AE27-1200 was factory on mine. I will see what I can find in my pics. Appreciate the nice words.

I'd greatly appreciate if you can send a pic. If you can also get the lugs in the photo so I can see the wire orientation, that would be awesome.

#2022 2 years ago

Making a little progress with my machine, but still lots of gremlins... Wondering if anyone can help me with some questions about the magnets.

1) The trunk magnet was burning F904, but the magnet itself is bad so I've disabled it until I get a replacement. F903 is now blowing from the outlane magnets. Is this a common issue? Can the magnet time be adjusted?

2) Installed the auto Eddy boards from Pinbits, and started getting an error on the Left Drain Eddy (Switch 45). Any ideas?

3) The auto Eddy boards are larger than stock Eddy. Do you just drill new holes?


#2028 2 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Hmm, that's odd. I've never heard of that before. I don't know of magnet time being adjustable either, nor have I heard of someone doing that as a fix for blowing fuses. Is it possible they got wired together somehow? Also, are you confident you have the right fuses? Have to ask.

If you unplug the left drain eddy, what happens? Before putting in the auto-Eddy board, what was going on there? Did you get that error before?

That should only be true for the trunk eddy. The other two should fit in the existing holes. I had to make a new hole for the trunk eddy...I use a manual crank drill with a 7/64 bit and some masking tape to tell me when I'm in 1/4".

Yup, all fuses as per the manual. I've disabled the trunk, and that fuse is yet to blow.

Eddy error is now gone. Not sure why or have w, but it is. Will keep an eye on it.

As for the size, the outlane and trunk Eddy from Pinbits are all the same size (and larger than stock). Did the mistakenly send me 3 trunk Eddy's?

#2030 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

I just bought all 3 and they were all same size and larger tban originals

Interesting... So maybe they were making them smaller before since someone else commented that they're out lane boards were the same size?

Kind of annoying that they didn't just keep the same footprint on both.

#2039 2 years ago

Looking to change the LED lighting, and love how this looks below. What do you guys suggest for color choices? Looks like they've gone with a lot of purple and red under the GI plastics? And maybe bright white under the inserts?

Also, in this video from Namsan, his gorgeous TOM looks to be using some blueish bulbs. Maybe cyan?

Any suggestions would be appreciated

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#2042 2 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Warm or sunlights on top, colored matched LEDs for red/blue/green inserts. Yellow/orange inserts get sunlight and warm LEDs, respectively.
Note: you will want to order flex heads for many of the inserts due to many light sockets being mounted parallel to playfield.

So are you saying that the examples above that look really purple, are using warm LEDs on the GI under plastics?

From the photo, it looks like there are purple LEDs, especially around the lane guides.

#2045 2 years ago
Quoted from RVH:

Looks like the kit from pinballbulbs.com

Looks like it! Price is way too inflated. I'll customize it myself

Quoted from lyonsden:

No -- they are using purple LEDs in the GI. Not my preference to do that and I was just sharing my preference (using warm or medium whites).

I started putting it cool white bulbs, but I'm with you on the warm. Just fits the theme better. So I'm going to try some warm white and some purple/red on the GI.

#2054 2 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

You may get a number of differing opinions on this. I have been running 1.3 for about 15 years and don't see a huge benefit in upgrading to 1.4H, others that run 1.4H say that it is the "only way to go" and that even though there are some known bugs in the code, the occur so minimally that the benefits outweigh the bugs.
We all will agree that you should get off of 1.2.

What are the main benefits of 1.4H? I believe I read that it improves the working saw mod?

#2062 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballBulbs:

Our price isn't inflated at all. In fact, it's usally about $10 cheaper than pricing yourself
However, we don't simply offer a kit full of mega bright bulbs that makes the game unplayable. We make all our kits in person and use frosted where needed to play well. We also offer those Spotlight kits and led strips we created that are no solder and help put light onto the playfield and not simply in your face. That's why the price is higher than just bulbs alone, but if you added up the bulbs and extras it's cheaper to buy a kit.

Appreciate you chiming in and taking the time to explain what your kits involve. I'll definitely take a closer look. Cheers!

#2063 2 years ago

Has anyone installed a Mirco pf? It's something I'm very seriously considering in the near future, but would like to hear some feedback.

#2064 2 years ago

Did I just finish the wizard mode??? I believe I completed the 8 illusions, and then nothing really happened.

Without spoiling it for me (I know, it's supposed to be underwhelming but I still want to see it for myself) but does anything actually happen that would let you know you're in the wizard mode?


#2066 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Did you light all 4 of the stages lit above the flippers?
This puts you into grand finale.
Illusions is only 1 of the things you need.
Midnight madness is probably the hardest one to get unless you win it in the basement.
I dont think its underwhelming at all. Actually its pretty exciting!

Alright then, I don't think I did it after all haha!

I did complete the 8 Illusions, but I also needs the stages and midnight madness?

#2073 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yes all 4 stages.
Knowing this makes the "clock" meaningful. You have to get to midnight by looping the right orbit.
Also you can advance the clock via a tiger saw award.
If you make the skill shot of "start illusion" by hitting the trunk you can get a lot of free illusions.
You dont have to finish an illusion for it to count, just start it.
I usually time out the magic hat, its too risky.

Ok, I think I almost got it... Did all illusions, got clock to midnight, and then the trunk turned to the magic side and started counting down. I panicked and lost the ball haha.

#2074 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Ok, I think I almost got it... Did all illusions, got clock to midnight, and then the trunk turned to the magic side and started counting down. I panicked and lost the ball haha.

Nope, scratch that... Just downloaded the rule sheet.

That was Midnight Madness. Looks like I just had to finish that mode and I would have been able to start the Grand Finale! Guessing you can let Midnight Madness time out and the start the wizard mode?

Anyhow, what an awesome game! Can't wait to get the Mirco playfield in it!

#2080 2 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I was one of those people pushing and pushing for a TOM reproduction playfield. I had been in talks with Mirco for many many months before they ever became available. I was even on a pre-order list, had money prepped, and.... didn't buy one.
There were 2 different TOM playfields made by 2 different supply houses. One is what most of us have and is considered the more desirable one (also know as TAG or Thomas A Grant version). The other, was from a company called Sun Process. It was, by many people's opinion, flawed. The Sun Process ones were found mainly outside of the U.S.A.
The bottom of the playfield is way too purple compared to what some estimated (not my estimate) 97+% of the playfields had. That in itself isn't terrible, I know. The "game design credit" lettering is blurry on it and hard to read, but again, not many people read that or notice it. The biggest issue that would stare at me every time that I played the game is the horrible moire effect with the gradient dot fade around the middle of the playfield. If you look at his playfield reproduction around the magician in the middle, you will see I asked Mirco about it, and he 1) didn't even know that there were multiple playfield manufacturers originally, 2) didn't realize that his film that he was using was the Sun Process, 3) didn't even notice the moire as he thought that it was supposed to be that way.
The Thomas A Grant version is what we all would have really wanted. I have a badly chipped "A" in MAGIC right in the middle of my playfield. I spent a ton of time and money pretty much restoring my TOM and the playfield is the only thing not re-done, but I wasn't about to trade one playfield problem for another one with a flawed looking playfield for $1000.
Not knocking Mirco at all on this. I really am not. He isn't in the U.S., and did what he thought was the perfect playfield. Just happened to be the less desirable (and somewhat flawed) film. Not his fault. He seems to do really great playfields and I am sure that the workmanship is just as great on this one.
For more information about the differences between the TAG and Sun Process playfields, check this out:
I've also attached an image from Mirco's Facebook post and circled the many areas in the middle of the playfield with the bad moire effect. I did confirm with him that this is truly in the playfield, and not an issue with the camera that he used to take the photos.
Might not be an issue for you though, it just was for me. Again, he does great work. Unfortunately, it doesn't sound like the TAG film exists anywhere any more, so if you want a new playfield, this is your only choice. Otherwise you have to strip your playfield, send it off for like 3-4 months for repair, and then hope that you took good enough notes, video, and photos to put it all back together. The benefit of a more "casual" restore is that you can set up 2 rotisseries side by side, and start swapping from one to the other. Sure, you will still need a lot of notes, videos, and photos, but you won't have to wait months for your brain to forget how to put it all back together again.

Appreciate you giving all that info. I was a bit worried about the colours when I saw the repro pics on Mirco's site.

I have a TAS pf, so I may just look to get it restored rather than get a repro.

#2095 2 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

personally, yeah it would be great if the colors were more spot on. I got a another baby pacman overlay after I noticed the blue one guy used was way off from what it should of been. At the time there were two different people to pick from.
Like you said there is only one vendor for new TOM playfields, so when looking at it from that aspect...
I'd send my playfield out, but not knowing the cost and how long it's going to take keeps me from even trying. I know there was one guy selling a NOS TOM playfield on ebay this January for 1800. The colors were the same but, at that cost holy crap.

I'm in this boat right now too. I've gotten few quotes, and may just end up sending my pf in. I have TAG pf, and prefer those colors, so I'm likely going that route.

1 week later
#2117 2 years ago
Quoted from Bluemedgroup:

There's a trunk hole opto? I'm confused as I don't see anything in the manual for specifically for the trunk hole. Is it separate from the trunk opto board?

Isn't it referred to as an "Eddy"?

Don't quote me on it, but I recall something like that while I was diagnosing a problem.

2 weeks later
#2134 2 years ago
Quoted from UltraPeepi:

I got my new indestructible trunk, and got it installed. It raises an issue, which is less of an issue for a more rigid trunk. The trunk bubbles out, on side with the green light. This is because the green light is attached with a screw and bracket attached onto the outside of the trunk assembly.
If the the screw head was very flat, it wouldn't be a problem. Maybe I have the wrong screw. And/or maybe I have it mounted wrong.
Have others solved this problem? Or mitigated it somehow?
I don't have a photo - if nobody knows what I'm talking about, I'll add it.

I am having this exact issue. Find a fix for it yet? Going to take a photo and send it to Georgia today.

#2135 2 years ago

So, I replaced my Hocus Pocus magnets, and also replaced the sensors with Pinbits.

The right sides is working perfectly, but the left side isn't activating at all. I can feel the right side vibrate, and when testing, it catches the ball. The left side does not vibrate, and as expected, does not grab the ball.

Any suggestions on what this may be?

This machine has a lot of Gremlins, but I'm down to just this and a Left EOS issue.

1 month later
#2218 2 years ago

Reached Grand Finale for the first time this week, and it was pretty awesome! I'm guessing you have to hit certain targets to spell Magic Theatre to complete it?

I remember reading some reviews on the game where people said the wizard mode was anticlimactic, bit I found it pretty cool. Also the game gets knocked a lot for being shallow, but I find that it offers a lot of fun shots, and completing each illusion can be tough.

My only knock on the game is that the trunk multiball doesn't allow you to progress in the game. I kind of wish it could be used like in MM or AFM to advance the objectives.

Regardless, game is a true classic!

#2223 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

It usually gets knocked because it can be too easy for good players. For me, it's a nice step away from the more difficult pins and like mentioned the shots are butter smooth and rival Steve Ritchie's best designs, imo.
Side note, just ordered side mirrors for it and can't wait to get them installed!

Game is definitely smooth. I'm not a huge fan of most Steve or Mark Ritchie games, and the ones I've played have had some nice shots, but not smooth like TOM.

#2225 2 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Sometimes you want to go on an epic journey when you play pinball. And sometimes you just want the enjoyment of the way the ball travels around the playfield. I feel this way about ToM and TOTAN; not deep rules, and the way that the game feels as you shoot is what makes it so much fun.

Absolutely agree. I also like that it's a game I can play quickly and there is a decent chance I will get to the wizard mode or close. It has that instant gratification feel to it.

1 week later
#2257 2 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Spinning saw blade done. Piece of cake and works great. Old computer fan and just followed the youtube video.
Now I just need small realistic chain for trunk mod. No Luck at HD or lowes.

Can you forward the Youtube video. Thanks.

#2265 2 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

here it is....very easy. My neighbor had an old pc he gave me the fan motor. Dremmel off excess plastic. I used gorilla epoxy.....You do need a longer screw for the spacer so the blade and plastic little fan motor its between the tiger plastic and the metal plate.
» YouTube video

Interesting. Did you have to extend your wires like he did in the video?

And, looks like attaching to the trunk motor will activate it on every trunk hit. Any way to do it so that it goes on during the Tiger Saw illusion, or when you hot the captive ball?

#2271 2 years ago
Quoted from Paddypaws:

Personally I've used the flasher in the tigersaw captive ball lane to trigger the tigersaw motor, using an LDR, so it spins during tigersaw mode. This works with any ROM so I'm running 1.3x.

Yup, I'm also curious to know what an LDR is.

And are you using a computer fan like others here?

2 weeks later
#2298 2 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Actually, yes. Worse is getting all but ONE letter....

Which is exactly what happened to me tonight! Had the entire family over and everyone was playing. TOM was empty and I decided to jump on for a quick one. Ended up getting to the Grand Finale pretty quick, and had everything done but one last letter.

What happens if you get it all?

#2301 2 years ago
Quoted from Ben1981:

The most unsatisfying wizard mode ending in all of pinball! The game just starts over


I wish I could unread that!

3 weeks later
#2338 2 years ago

Probably a stupid question, but if I buy a LCD ColorDMD for TOM, can I then put it into a game like LOTR?

Would it work with both, and just require different software to be installed?


#2342 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Also I believe there are slightly different connectors used for Whitestar games (like LOTR) but the main panel is exactly the same. You can probably order a kit if you email Randy

Cool. I have TOM now, but will be swapping it with a friend for a LOTR in the summer, and wanted to enjoy ColorDMD in both games.

I played last night and got to Grand Finale for the third time, and it's a blast! I know people knock the game for being shallow, and for the wizard mode be anti-climatic, but I feel completely opposite about it. I think that the games flow and charm and makes up for the thinness of the rules, and I think that having to make a series of shots within a given time is a decent wizard mode.

To me, it's one of those games that I appreciate the more I play it, unlike games like TZ and IJ that I appreciated less the more I put in games.

2 months later
#2420 1 year ago
Quoted from weaverj:

exactly. would marco actually say "cherry" in the item description?

What is a cherry switch?

6 months later
#2581 1 year ago

Having an issue where the let magnet keeps blowing the fuse.

Should this be a 3A SB?

2 weeks later
#2597 1 year ago

I have a brand new trunk opto-board with Leon integrated. I bought this to put in my game, but ended up trading the game away. I paid $64 with shipping.

I also have a a magic trunk connector from Little Shop of Games, that will make the install much easier. I paid $35 with shipping:


I'll offer the set for $75 plus shipping (probably like $5). I will ship to the USA and Canada.

Get in touch if you are interested.

#2598 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

I have a brand new trunk opto-board with Leon integrated. I bought this to put in my game, but ended up trading the game away. I paid $64 with shipping.
I also have a a magic trunk connector from Little Shop of Games, that will make the install much easier. I paid $35 with shipping:
I'll offer the set for $75 plus shipping (probably like $5). I will ship to the USA and Canada.
Get in touch if you are interested.

Does anyone want an upgraded trunk onto-board with Leon integrated board?

I have one with a new molex connector and bulbs that that is likely better than your tangled wires, and also makes install easy since you won't have to worry about unseating and reseating your molex.

Both of them for $75! It's a steal and it's the perfect upgrade for TOM.

PM me if interested.

1 month later
#2619 1 year ago

Hey everyone,

I have a bit of a mystery with my machine, and I'm hoping that I might get some ideas going here that might open my eyes to the root of this.

The F903 fuse keeps blowing on the fliptronic board, and at that time, the left magnet stops working as it should, and the left sling and left flipper can actually trigger the magnet intermittently (for example, something hitting the left flipper 3 times will trigger it, sometimes 4 times. It's seems random).

I installed the new Pinbits Eddy sensors, but I recall the issue occurring even with the stock sensors.

Anyone have any ideas as to what this might be?

Transistor? Ground issue?

Also, can anyone explain why the manual refers to "lower" and "upper" flippers?


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