Can someone tell me the color black to use for the front on the Backbox? Also the color black for the wood next to the shooter lane. Thanks.

I burnted it years back at the top, too close to a lamp right above it.

So I figure bondo the top area there in the picture and then hit with some paint, is there any normal paint brush paint or is spray paint in a cup best?

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Quick question, after getting my TOM up again after 5 years in storage, I got everything working minus a bunch of bulbs that apparently burnt out. One issue I'm having is it doesn't consistently go up the right ramp. I'd say half the time it falls out the hole a little way up and it seems to kind of clunk up the ramp when it makes it instead of going smoothly. Is this normal or is it a level issue or something?

All the parts are there. I set it to 6.5 degrees. The bulbs are random it seems. Two in theatre a few for the magic acts etc. There is also a magic post flasher that seems to be out. Where is the magic post? For the ramp, the ball just doesn't seem to want to go smooth. Don't know how to better describe it. Maybe like this. Shots that definitely have the power to get around the ramp are falling in the hole so I thought maybe it wasn't leveled right but I checked and the level is just about as good as it gets. Those shots Tend to be kind of banging into the side of the ramp as it goes up instead of nice and smooth like the center ramp.

Is that color For the Backbox or shooter lane?

Anyone know what to do about the gold habitrail rusting? 6 years ago there was no easy solution.

But these are Two different blacks on the shooter lane and blackbox.

Will Brasso work for this?

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So which color is for the backbox and which is for the shooter lane? or are those both for the backbox?

Brasso smoothed out the wire but it still looks the same. At least it Will be smooth. I have one lock light that I keep getting to work and it keeps going out again. Any ideas what I can try?

Yea it is the twist holder and figured it was kinda what you mentioned but was hoping it wasn't.

Can someone tell me which protector from pinball decals fits this Game. They list wpc 95 and wpc 93.

Tonight it was making skill shots on its own. Ball sent to plunger and it awarded the shot. Is my sensor to sensitive at the trunk?

Yes button protectors, sorry about that. The problem is, I asked the person from the site and they weren't sure either. Looking at the pictures, one of them seems to have less plastic above the flipper button, however I have TOM and NGG here, one WPC95 and TOM I guess is WPC 93 and the flippers look to be about in the same position.

I like these because they appear to just hold in place by the buttons and won't do any permanent damage. I need them now for the kids while they are young.

Those stick on though right? So potential damage?

Anyone know about this humming I have?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tom-humming-noise

That's why I'm looking at the pinball decal ones. Held in place by flipper button.

Actionpinball has it and yes it's worth it. Without it spins with captive ball hit. With it spins during Tiger saw and Tiger saw multiball. Sad that people have to pay so much for this mod. I don't know what happened to the Tom Callahan version. I guess that's pin logic. I have the prototype in my machine from Tom Callahan when he made it for the 1.4 rom and it's still working many years later.

I'm no expert player but it seems fine to me. Multiball seems fine, I have the occasional time when a ball came out the trap door instead of going to the plunger after lock, but I font think that's Rom related.

Thanks, I figured it out a bit after posting at least that was my conclusion as to why there was no light. I added the saw, but I'm not drilling through the playfield. LOL

So I was playing today with the kids and during my turn the game just turned off and reset. We then played another game without issues. Since getting the thing out of storage, its probably been played 50 times without incident. Should I worry about this or is it just a freak occurance? Using 1.4h home rom.

What do you guys use to remove the nuts holding the flipper buttons in? I used a pair of pliers getting them off as I couldn't find a wrench that would fit, but now no matter what I do, one of the flipper buttons is loose and I'd like to get it tightened properly.

Do you know what size the nut is?

what the heck, I have a full open ended wrench set here and it goes 7/8 to 1 inch. i don't think I have a socket that big either, will have to check the set. But good to know what size it would use. Thank you

Anyone else have problems hitting the right loop? I can hit left loop no problem but right hardly ever. It's usually just luck and considering midnight madness is my favorite part, it kind of sucks.

Me and the kids focus on not losing the balls during multiball LOL. I'm thinking my flippers aren't set right but they are aligned with the flipper alignment holes.

So if pinbits doesn't have these anymore, is the only thing that you can do is adjust these constantly? I've adjusted all 3 sensors per instructions, turn till lit them turn back until light turns off. I've checked them and make sure they are registering and same thing everytime. The trunk registers most of the time but has a bad habit of not registering the skill shot some times and the outlanes miss the ball probably half the time. You'd assume there would be compensation for that in the software but Nope.

So do led's work on TOM or not so well. I keep reading old posts about dimming problems and needing a GI OCD. I was thinking of doing the GI lights in purple and then white for all the inserts along with purple rubber.

I was planning on comet. So do they dim correctly or no? Will purple gi look good?

Spinning saw first thing you Should do. But please think before putting a spinning metal saw blade in a wood pinball machine. The plastic blade is plenty cool.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-tom-tiger-saw-mod-for-14h-rom-based-on-the-former-pin-logic-kit

When does it actually dim. I tried looking on mine and couldn't see it.

so I see the dimming now, lets say I went with normal bulbs for GI and LED for the inserts, would that work? Features work? Could I use purple normal GI bulbs or would they be too dark?

Did you just turn off the dimming?

Is the post really worth it? It's not like you just put it in. I won't go drilling my Playfield for it. Love the spinning saw though.

Mine gives other things, its just mostly probably 8 out of 10 times light extra ball. It did do digital pinball one time, but definitely does not seem to be random picking exactly like it should.

So I replaced a burned out GI bulb in the sling and looked under the playfield and noticed at least on TOM that probably half the bulbs or more are sitting horizontally. Do you need flex LED bulbs for all of those locations or just for the T and E in theatre? Those flex bulbs are double the price.

I'm thinking 2smd bulbs from comet, but the 2 flex head bulbs are literally double the price or so. 65 cents versus 1.19 per bulb, so I'm trying to figure out if I really need the flex everywhere. I saw a picture of someone doing leds like 7 years ago and T and E were not lit as much. Im fine with flex there, but if I need flex in every horizontal holder, the game is probably going to have to wait.

I thought you had said you used 2smd all around the game?

The post if I remember from playing champion pub years ago was actually useful on that game. TOM it would pop up for a few seconds according to what I've read about the code. and only if you hit the poof target which doesn't make a lot of sense to me.

Could I get a list of what You used?

If anyone has a list of leds for this game I'd appreciate it. Trying to create bulk list for my games

Thank you. So everyone is using flex bulbs here. Thats what I'm planning, but talking to comet, they said that the 2smd horizontal works better than the flex. Is this just nonsense?

Anyone know if this connector should be connected? I'm guessing probably yes, but its been disconnected and everything seems fine.

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I"m guessing that too, can anyone else confirm they have j124 plugged in?

tom pic (resized).jpg

cool, plugged in and nothing exploded. Thank you.

Thats what I was planning, but when I asked comet, the guy said he tried the flex and the 2smd in the side mounted slots and said the 2smd looked better in the side mounted

Thank you, Both of them don't look too bad. I saw pictures from years back recently showing the side mounted LED's would barely light the first and last letters in Theatre but I"m guessing the LED's are a lot brighter now.

they always seemed to be working.

I did look in the manual and saw that before I plugged it in, I thought insert flashlamps would be on the playfield? How do I test these, is there a test setting?

EDIT: I checked now, I see them flashing in the backbox along with the playfield. The Blue Dome light on the left rear never seems to go on though although I swear I've seen it in game.

Any pictures?

Stupid machine resets in the middle of a game. Its done it 3 or 4 times already. With the amount of games we play and the few times it happens, its not annoying enough to start going crazy over, but I'm wondering if that wpc board for 29 bucks will fix the issue? Maybe the plug its in isn't super stable?

measuring the voltage drops is basically measuring the voltage on the pinwiki site?

How do you find where it drops when we play 3 player games and it does it maybe once in 30 to 50 games. Probably more like once in 50.

Straight into wall but I'm thinking that plug is getting affected by something like a.c. or something

It doesn't fit all that well. Mine like that too.

Tom is fun and relatively easy. It's my 5 and 7 year old favorite machine even over ngg.

It looks good but t and e look dim.

Can You confirm if they really dim or its just the picture? I been thinking of getting those leds

what do you mean by the magna save magnet rings go bad? I don't really want to shell out for the auto eddy sensors right now, but I would like to make the save magnets more reliable. They seem to work now, but only if the ball is going slowly.

Yes, mine are too, I've had the game for 15 or 16 years now. Spirit ring is flawless. and the saves appear to work but not if the ball is shooting fast past them. I can't believe their isn't some compensation for that to return the ball.

mine just tries to save and fails. the magnets activate but the ball gets through.

It gets it sometimes. If the ball Is bouncing between the lanes it will usually get it, but if ball Is just flying straight down Outlane most likely not.

tested my magnets yesterday by manually activating hocus pocus and then rolling the balls toward them, caught it just about every time so the magnets work, the ball just gets buy during gameplay which unfortunately without stronger magnets I don't think can be helped.

I think its just the way its programmed.

green or red loctite or superglue should put the gear on there. Common with little RC helicopters.

The helicopter motors spin much faster than this. As long as it's nearly the same size. It will work.

Honestly I looked at the picture, I looked at my playfield and I cannot tell what the issue is with the reproduction. They both look the same to me. The purple at the bottom doesn't look too bad either.

I agree for 1000 it would bother me. Otherwise not so much.

maybe its just the picture, but I see red blue green on the order form and in the back box it looks like at least one of those is cyan.

The 2smd from comet seems to be the best all around bulb from my studies so far and its cheaper than the pinballbulbs bulb at 75 cents a piece. I believe frosted bulbs would probably be good just about everywhere.

I've watched the videos and honestly don't notice the difference with the GI OCD or not. Certainly not 150 dollars worth, but then people have a tendency to call me cheap.

Kit ends up costing roughly 100 dollars more typically.

Definately the saw blade with the home rom. But try to build yourself as the price for the kit is insane.

I believe it does. Did you look at the instructions on Tom callahans site? I have the original prototype in my machine so I can try to offer some help.

1.3 does not let the game control the tigersaw.

You have the 1.4 rom right? I couldn't tell from the video. And you have the EMI driver board as well?

Yes, you hit the ball and it triggers a switch. With 1.4 it activates when tiger saw multball is active as well as tiger saw illusion, not just when hitting the ball.

Mine Will only play no good gofers

Yea, I'm likely going to add this too at some point. Mine does it pretty rarely but enough that it pisses the kids off in the middle of a game. Since the other games don't do it and this one has the spinning tigersaw, it has to be the saw drawing a little too much power at times I would guess.

Mine are blue, I'm married.

Sorry, couldn't resist.

Well you can just buy a new trunk when the old one gets damaged.

Anyone using a playfield protector on this? Any pros and cons?

Yep, read that thoroughly already, figured I'd ask about the specific games. Some say its great, others say it scratched and ball gets hung up at places.

Just curious, but what do you think a Remake will cost?

I can't imagine a remake is under 6500. Are TOMS going for that much?

The point I was making is the remakes aren't any cheaper than the original, maybe even more money. For a game going for stupid money maybe it makes sense.

AFMr really bothers me as that was a cheaper game initially, the only reason its expensive is it turned out to be quite a fun game. Still the actual costs to make it are not that high and charging essentially the same price for AFM and MM is ridiculous.

I like NGG myself, my daughter likes the TOM and I like it as well, but it is true what people say that its a bit easy and I'm not a very good player.

There is a post on here somewhere detailing how to make the mod yourself using the directions that are still available from Tom Callahan. I have that version in my machine for years and it works great and much cheaper than what is sold now. Only downside is I think it causes the game to reset every once in awhile.

You woudl need the board that goes with the kit. I don't remember the name of the little board you need to connect to.

should be EMI board, should be able to google it. I believe the twilight zone one is the main one.

Is the mod plugged onto the right pin and are you use 1.4 rom?

Its not rocket science. The saw gets a pulse of electric to turn it on or constant to stay on, if its running all the time, it sounds like its hooked up to the wrong place.

its a trap door, its supposed to squeak, adds to the ambiance.

I don't know if I've seen it like that but mine reboots sometimes, not often enough to make it worth my while to figure out whats wrong. I think the motorized saw is overloading it.

Did you order the rubbers? I haven't yet for my games but probably would do purple. Translucent just sounds like dirty to me after a little bit.

when I order rubbers I'm ordering from Titan pinball. Huge selection of rubbers and their service was top notch when I ordered flipper protectors.

Its been years since I did this but I don't remember taking any molex pins out of connectors although that could be possible. I do remember that I had the same symtoms of the trunk being loose and I had to open up the gear box and tighten it up from inside. There was a gear loose on the rod that comes out or something like that.

I'm pretty sure its going to be inside. I believe there is a gear attached to the metal rod inside that gets loose. I remember back when I did this everyone was replacing their gearboxes because the trunk was loose which if you think about it makes no sense because the speed that gearbox moves, its almost impossible to wear it out and if I remember everything the whole gearbox is solid metal.

Did you use loctite on the screws so hopefully you won't be doing it again? Did you use some sort of grease in there?

I have a feeling you will be doing it again in the not too distance future. I really would open it up and loctite it so you'll likely never have to do it again.

locktite is made for metal to metal. Of course it should be loctited. A little blue on the screws and it should hold for life.

Wow, that will surely turn out beautiful. A bit too extreme for me. These things already cost enough as it is.

I believe he meant the difference between the cherry switch and generic.

I believe you should't have nuts there, the hex posts are the nut.

Hello,

I got a little behind with life and all that. Is this still the best recommendation to paint an area of the front of the backbox? And if this is still the best recommendation would satin work better? It doesn't really look like Semi gloss.

Oh and there is like Krylon fusion, colormaxx, etc, Is there a certain Krylon Black?

Any new technology with LED's, I contemplated changing them years ago in my machines, but everyone said their were issues, does it still require OCD LED and GI LED boards?

I guess the question is more of, do you still need them, have LED's gotten to the point that it isn't an issue anymore?

What do I do for outlane eddy? At least one appears to be bad. I only seem to be able to find the 1-2 part number which appears to be for the trunk and not the outlanes.

Thanks

Rob

They out of stock.

Yea, I'm really trying to avoid the full thing as my trunk works fine.

You mean adjusting the pot? I haven't yet, I have done it before. I'm getting some type of sensor error when I start the machine so I figured the board is probably done. Could you point me to the post on changing the pot? If its just the pot I could probably handle. I've been soldering for over 30 years, but little boards is not my expertise.