joined the club recently, traded for a nice JP Premium, and I have what looks like an undocumented HUO, nice condition, but who knows, it's 25 years old. Plays great, subway pop-up eject sounds a little squeaky, so maybe it needs a little oil (that's a joke, I'll get under and check everything). It came with the rotating saw mod (still in the box) and two really cool (and artistic) tiger figures. I'm not sure if those tigers are meant to go under the glass or if they are just an accessory (maybe a topper). Anyway, glad to get another WPC back in the collection, as much as I love them, having the classics get gobbled up in my collection by new Sterns was starting to not feel right! Any specific topics or issues I should be aware of, would love the advice, I'll dig back through this forum topic, but that's going to take some time.

Installed the motorized saw blade tonight. Seems to power on when the ball goes through the lanes at the top, but not going to worry about it, running 1.3 right now, have 2.0 coming.

More importantly, what do I do with this tiger (in the picture). Currently sitting on the backbox but I suspect it could be put under the glass based on the size (and that was the original purpose). Would need some modifications (like cutting the rear half off!), has anybody done this?

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Sounds like for 2.0, need the old security chip. 1.4 is the only version needing the new security chip. At least per Matt’s Arcade basement website.

Did you ever figure this out? I’m with you on not clipping to a test point. If you have a link to what you used, would appreciate it!

Pulled my 1.3 bios and found this guy under it. Lol.

2.0, saw motor mod works much better.

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I used Ninja balls on CV, and they lasted about 3 games before they were getting stuck in the trough, subway, etc. I think TOM only has the magnets to save the outlanes, but I'd stick with carbon steel balls for this game.

Illuminated tiger mod super cool!have the spinning saw blade, and lighted marquee mirror to go

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Had switch 87 break off, new one on the way. It’s on the right return wire form (after hitting left orbit / THEATRE shot). Game still plays fine, just wondering what this switch triggers or how it affects gameplay (THEATRE mode still works).

I don’t know for sure but I think it probably does something when it happens in sequence with the theater left orbit shot switches (as you can make this theatre shot and not hit it strong enough dropping it through the lanes into the pops). Maybe related to a combo shot (if you keep hitting the left orbit over and over)

Trunk magnet not grabbing all of a sudden. Other than checking the connectors and possible a fuse, any thoughts to get me started?

Fuse on the board or is there one inline near the trunk? Do you remember what fuse it was?

Thanks all, hoping for one of the easy fixes!

Eddy worked, magnet did not. Blown 3a fuse on the MPU board (correction, fliptronic, F903). Back in business.

Thanks all for the help!

Got my GC score on ball 2, but for midnight madness and grand finale, had no magnet on the trunk. So assuming the 3A fuse blew again. Suggestions on what might be causing that thing to blow? I’ll check under the playfield for wires after I finish my 3rd ball!

I’ll be damned, the magnet works now the eddy doesn't. Lol.

Just had to adjust the eddy.

Post #3551, same thing here. I replaced the whole switch as the mounting posts were a little worn down. Was a bit of a challenge having to take the ramp off (mounts under the pf). If you can just replace the arm, would recommend that!

Does anybody else have a squeaky / scratch the chalkboard noise when the trap door comes up?

Same on mine, and I adjusted the leafs and still not real active.

This is probably something more generic with WPC, but because it’s on this game I will start here. I’m a little stumped with some solenoids that are not working.

Right sling, left sling, all pops, and diverter at top are not functioning. Manual calls them “low voltage”, all getting voltage from 107-3 (testing at 67 volts), drive from 127 (all different pins) have continuity to the coil (to the q transistor, so no issues at the plug). They are all on black/red (assuming that’s the power, as the drive wire colors are all different).

Every fuse in the machine is testing fine, manual says fuse 104 for those solenoids that are out.

All test point are proper voltages.

EDIT-
Got it working using the attached diagram, ended up going back a bit to J102 and J113 ribbon, replugged both. Also re-installed the F112. Then it worked. Not sure what did it but one of those!

Take care!

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That’s what my pro buddies tell me. Not the most fun way to play, but left orbit over and over.