I added a couple tigers to my TOM. I thought I would share a picture.

IMG_7866.JPG

i have a question for you guys that have added the tiger saw/lit marquee mod to your game. The installation instructions call for getting 12 v by clipping the alligator clip to TP1. I did this and it works, but I don't like the idea of the clip on the power driver board. Has anyone picked up 12v for this mod from another location?

I am still having a problem hooking up the Tiger Saw and Marquee. I tried using an external power supply. I had one in use already to light some speaker lights. The Tiger Saw has a controller board that had a black wire going to ground and a red wire that was hooked to TP1 for power. So I clipped the red wire and black wires and connected them to the 12 v external power supply. The power supply is plugged into a smart power strip that turns it on when the game is turned on. The problem that I have is that the saw starts spinning as soon as it gets power and does not stop. I thought TP1 supplied 12V constantly to the controller board and that hooking it up to the power supply would work the same. So anyone else hooked up the Saw and Marquee different from the TP1 power connection?

In Post 3295 I asked:
i have a question for you guys that have added the tiger saw/lit marquee mod to your game. The installation instructions call for getting 12 v by clipping the alligator clip to TP1. I did this and it works, but I don't like the idea of the clip on the power driver board. Has anyone picked up 12v for this mod from another location?
Response:
Your best bet is to route it through an external power supply.

I contacted the manufacturer and I was told that the tiger saw/marquee mod had to use TP1 and a ground common to that board. My efforts to use an external power supply did not work. I really wanted to eliminate the alligator clip so I got a red connector ( what I call a splice connector and used the female side) and crimped the power lead to the tiger saw mod to it and then carefully compressed the female part of the connector. After a few tries I was able to get the connector tight enough so that it actually snapped onto TP1. The connector has plastic insulation covering the metal parts so the potential for it shorting something should it come off is eliminated, unlike alligator clips.