(Topic ID: 43909)

Theatre of Magic Club

By Nilroc

11 years ago


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#3188 3 years ago
Quoted from dq13:

On the hunt for a playfield protector for my ToM. Are the German manufacturers the only avenue for distribution? The shipping is 40% of the cost!

This?
ebay.com link: Playfield Protector for Bally Theatre Of Magic Pinball Machine

2 weeks later
#3195 3 years ago

Having an issue with the eject on my vanish lock. It hits the plastic and dribbles back into the hole repeatedly.

It has the correct coil, new sleeve, and I've even "tweaked" the bracket to change the angle of the plunger a little. I even changed the plastic. Nothing has worked

Has anyone else had this issue?

2 months later
#3218 3 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Trouble in paradise.
Has anyone ever seen a random "Slam Tilt" during game play? I have all slam tilt switches disconnected, along with the tilt bob (I'm a persistent nudger) but for whatever reason, I am getting this reset - happened during an unusually good game, grrr...
Anyone see this? Could it be component related, maybe power supply related? No random game reset, only slam tilt.

I've had this happen to me on two games. In both cases the cause was a bad switch that was in the same row/column as the offending tilt switch. Put the game in switch edge test and do some checking. Thump on the playfield a little and see if any switches activate.

1 month later
#3270 2 years ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

For some reason I keep hearing Carly Simon singing “Anticipation”!
New legs and levelers - check
New play field glass - check
New lighted flipper buttons - check
New LED’s - check
New Titan clear rubber kit- check
New motorized Tiger Saw mod - check
New mirror light mod - check
New ROM chip to run mods - check
New shaker kit - check
New Color DMD - check
For some reason I feel I’m still missing something. Ahh - the damn pinball machine! Doh!
Anyone else do this? Waiting on a game and you keep getting add-on’s and mods ? Lol.
Hope to have my ToM tomorrow! Then break her down, clean her up and start working on her !
I’ll post my progress and all questions of course! Where’s my Heinz?[quoted image][quoted image]

I know "LOL" is overused... but I actually did laugh out loud when I saw the velvet ropes. Too funny.

I'v been thinking about adding a shaker. Let us know what you think once you get it installed.

4 weeks later
#3309 2 years ago
Quoted from isJ:

Just picked up a ToM and am looking for auto eddy boards. Do they still exist? Pinbits is sold out and inactive. Anything alternatives?

These? ebay.com link: itm

1 week later
#3328 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyohtay:

Getting ready to dive into a problem with my trunk that started yesterday. I turned it on to play and at some point it started missing the stopping point and sometimes seemingly gets lost. I went into trunk test mode and sometimes it works, sometimes it misses and stops 10 degrees off or so and sometimes just keeps spinning in 360 degrees not stopping anywhere.
Before I start really digging in, have any of you seen this behavior? Trunk sensor board? Connections?
Edit: trunk has the metal sensor ring and it is not cracked or anything.
Thanks!

Also try re-flowing solder at the pins on the opto board. A cracked solder joint will have the same effect at a bad/dirty opto.

2 months later
#3374 2 years ago
Quoted from KnoxPins:

Does anyone have an intact right inlane plastic (purple piece) that they’d sell and ship?
[quoted image]

https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/theatre-of-magic-right-lane-guide-plastic.html

3 weeks later
#3384 2 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

Any new technology with LED's, I contemplated changing them years ago in my machines, but everyone said their were issues, does it still require OCD LED and GI LED boards?

I have LED OCD boards in 3 of my machines (WH20, TOTAN, Black Rose). I don't have them in TOM because I'm satisfied with the performance of the LED's as-is. I'm using mostly Comet 2SMD's by the way.

4 months later
#3516 2 years ago
Quoted from Mischa:

Hey guys, help needed with the trunk. Bought my TOM 1 month ago. Looks nice, but there is this thing with the trunk. Today I cleaned my trunk motor according to this post ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/if-your-tom-trunk-is-acting-up-clean-the-gear-boxjunk-in-the-trunk ).
The trunk is smooth now, but this one problem persists. Whenever I get midnight madness, every ball that comes from the trunk magnet goes STDM. Is there a way to to adjust the trunk a little bit so this does not happen anymore? Midnight madness should be fun, but now I know i loose the ball in a second
I have the TOM 2.0 software, so I could set the STDM-trunk ball saver to ON, but that’s no fun. It should be hard, but not impossible.

When the trunk magnet drops the ball, the straight path via gravity is to the left flipper. I'm assuming your game is level (Left - right) ? Sorry if I sound like an ass for asking...

1 week later
#3538 2 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

I have the same issue as you stated above, once in awhile I get resets, We honestly don't play the games enough for it to be a major issue, but there is some device you can buy for like 35 dollars that piggybacks on the board and provides constant power.

Resets on a WPC system are EXTREMELY common and a well-known issue. Most will tell you that the right way to fix this is to replace the caps so you get good 5V power. However you are right, you can install a Kahr daughterboard and it will fix the condition. I've done this on at least a half dozen machines.

#3541 2 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

A differing opinion to some of these statements.

WPC resets are common and well known.
In my experience the most common cause is the header and connector. Re-seat the connector to see if that changes the situation. If the problem goes away (potentially for a while before coming back) then you have header and connector problem. You may still have an electrical problem on your power board but until you replace the header and connector that conclusion is not definitive. The one way to make a definitive conclusion is to measure the DC voltage and AC ripple. Ideally under load. If you don't measure then you don't know.
The daughter board will NOT fix the condition. It will simply shift your power draw to a different location. Eventually that location may fail and now you will have two failure points. This board masks the problem. It does not fix it.

Anyone is welcome to disagree with the above opinions (especially coming from a "DumbAss").

I don't see this as a differing opinion. The daughterboard is indeed a "patch" to get around the actual problem - it robs the 12V supply to boost the 5V deficiency.

5 months later
#3681 1 year ago
Quoted from altan:

I'm in the minority here (or the silent majority, who knows)... IMHO most people, generally, should stay away installing NVRAM. Get Energizer Lithium batteries and you are good to go.
I don't have a problem with NVRAM, but I know people skilled with soldering that messed up their boards by breaking traces during the install.
NVRAM is great if you are very good at desoldering/soldering and will not miss the (infrequent) side effects such as no accurate time on TZ or no real midnight madness on those games.

Best post I've seen all year.

4 weeks later
#3704 1 year ago
Quoted from KingMixer:

Update on my TOM problem. I removed the ball from the trap door and put it back in the lower trough. Now when I start a game, the game comes to life, but no ball is fed to the shooter lane. Just nothing. Hope you can help. Thanks.
Frank

I think you problems aren't related. For the issue of the game not starting, first check if the balls are magnetized. When this happens they don't feed into the trough correctly... the kind of "stick together" and won't roll. Take the balls out and put them on a flat surface. See if they have a tendency to want to stick together somewhat. If they are magnetized the effect will be subtle. If they aren't magnetized, check your trough switches. Take all the balls out and just roll one down the trough while in switch edge test. Make sure it registers at each switch location.

1 month later
#3776 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

UPDATE: I am going to try the things listed in this post... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/theatre-of-magic-no-popper-or-slingshot-working-
For some reason I wasn't getting good search results and then AFTER I made this post, I found this one.
ORIGINAL POST:
I'm having some issues with my TOM tonight. I was going to play a few games before starting to swap out my pink and purple GI LEDs for Comet Sunlights, and things didn't go so well...
We moved fairly recently and my TOM travelled about 1300 miles. I unboxed it and set it up, but never had time to try it out until tonight.
Anyway, a lot of things work, but many key things don't.
Here is what doesn't work:
Slingshots
Poppers
The "Advance Bonus" roll-overs at the top
Here is what does work:
Flippers
All targets
All other roll-overs and switches
Spirit Ring
Magnet on the trunk
Vanish
Spinner
Trunk post
Trap door
Hocus Pocus
I have a few mods that all work too. The motorized tiger saw, Pinduino, colorDMD all work.
I grabbed my volt meter and started checking fuses, and did find one bad one. It was actually visibly bad too. In the backbox, the upper left board (Fliptronic I believe), there is a 2x2 grouping of fuses and it was the lower left, if that matters. Replaced it with the same fuse type and still nothing.
Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting? I've had my TOM since 1998, and have had very few problems with the machine, but this half way across the county move seems to have been a little bit of a rough journey.
Thanks.

You realize all of those items are in the same switch column, right?

#3782 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

Failed connectors are common, so the next step would be to plug the J207 connector back in, and then test continuity between the circuit board itself and the wire coming from pin 6.

Note that one way these things fail is that a solder joint simply breaks. So even without the machine running, one thing you could do is pull the board and test continuity between the components that provide the signal to J207-6. That's something you can do with a simple continuity tester, even if you don't have a logic probe or oscilloscope.

All great advice. And since the issue seemed to present itself after a move, my money is on a continuity problem, not a failed electrical component. I'd check the continuity between the board and pin 6 on the IDC connector first as pete_d suggested.

3 months later
#3963 1 year ago
Quoted from Goalie:

I’m back to dealing with the ghosting inserts on my machine. I can’t figure out what’s going on.
I replaced the power driver board with a brand new one from Victor. All the insert lights seem brighter now which is great, but the same inserts ghost as before. I have swapped bulbs, bulb holders, removed the led ocd boards. I don’t know what else it could be.

I just had this issue with my Twilight Zone - which turned out to be a single shorted diode that affected most all of the lamps. First thing I would suggest is to put it into single lamp test mode and check each lamp to see if another lamp (or two) lights up at the same time. Use the lamp matrix chart to note what is happening with each lamp you select. If it's like mine, you will see a pattern here.

#3977 1 year ago
Quoted from Goalie:

It’s happening with 2 different power driver boards, one of them is brand new. Are there more diodes for the lights aside from the ones on the driver board?

Yes, there are diodes on each lamp, one of which is most likely you problem. Did you do the individual lamp test and mark the results on the lamp matrix diagram?

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