(Topic ID: 43909)

Theatre of Magic Club

By Nilroc

11 years ago


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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider AlexRogan84.
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#3711 1 year ago

Just joined the club!

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#3714 1 year ago

Could someone help explain to me how you light and then relight the hocus pocus ball save feature?

We have the two switches right beside each other on the leftside. They have one light on the playfield in front of them. Is the lower switch to light the leftside ball saver and the upper switch to light the rightside one? And does that light come on when you go through the inlane?

I'm not sure how it works or how long it's enabled or stays enabled? Mine seem to work and catch the ball when it's over the outlane, but they aren't always on or I assume it would be grabbing the ball a lot more frequently. It doesn't seem to show an "active" status with a playfield light for each side.

I have a World Cup Soccer also that has the "magna save" feature. It uses a third flipper button to grab the ball on your command and it has its own playfield light telling you it's available. You light and relight it using the right inlane and then leftside target. Just trying to understand if it's the same or similar on ToM?

#3716 1 year ago
Quoted from sevenrites:

Hocus Pocus Targets
Two standups a short distance above the left inlane.
When either is hit, outlane magnets light for 15 seconds (default). No effect during any multiball.
Source: http://pinball.org/rules/theatreofmagic.html
Sorry that's the best I could find. Your question also made me wonder what activates them, seems like there's still more to it.

Hey, thanks, that's much better than what I had. The 15 seconds thing is what I was suspecting... mine don't always grab and since the game is new to me, I didn't know for sure if they were working correctly or not. The previous owner did me a HUGE favour though and it has the auto calibrating eddy sensors from Pinbits in all three locations (two inlanes plus the trunk). I'm still learning all the little nuances with the game, but man, I absolutely LOVE playing it! Wow!!

#3718 1 year ago

I'm not familiar with them enough quite yet to say for certain they are problem free, but my leftside one does not seem to work whereas the rightside does.

I found in the adjustments settings menu one for that timer on hocus pocus. Anywhere from OFF to 2 to 25 seconds, with 15 seconds being the default. I think how quickly the playfield light flashes is telling you how close to the timer running out is. There is also a setting for trunk ball save which I believe gives you a 2 second ball save after a trunk hit to make sure your trunk hit doesn't just bounce off and go straight down the middle.

I need to look and poke around under my playfield, but it sure seems like for whatever reason my right slingshot is triggering the leftside hocus pocus menu. Well, it's triggering one of those two magnets as you can feel and hear it engage, but not when the ball is over there. Need to look at the wiring, but something seems crossed up under there. Rightside saver works fine and grabs the ball until it steadies it and then releases it down the inlane. Leftside isn't doing that right now at all. I'm tempted to take the glass off and play a little test game using my hands to move the ball around where I need it to go to see what is working and what is not.

#3719 1 year ago

I got underneath the playfield last night confirming connections and whatnot. Nothing seemed obviously out of place. I removed each Molex connector and reconnected just to be sure they were snug. I started a game with the glass off and sure enough, both ball savers were working. I also let the feature time out after lighting it and that single Hocus Pocus light does indeed flash quicker as it is about to end.

#3720 1 year ago

Anyone know how many GI bulbs are in the game? There are five strings, two with round base bulbs and three with the wedge base ones.

#3723 1 year ago
Quoted from Fastfred:

I did a tear down on Theatre of Magic and took a lot of pictures but one part escape me as I cannot find where it goes. Can someone please share a picture of where it belongs? I been looking at pictures and stump. Thank you.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Front right corner of right staircase ramp I believe...

Extra bracket location on Pinside (resized).jpgExtra bracket location on Pinside (resized).jpg
#3730 1 year ago

Question about the opto boards used for the flippers... this assembly, A-17316, was used on many titles. I see it includes a "FLIPPER SPRING STEEL LEVER 4 INCH" which is part number 01-14348.1 https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-14348.1

Would there ever have been a time when games went out the door from Bally Williams that had these opto flippers but they didn't get these steel lever springs?

The reason I ask is that I recently got two games with this style of flipper switches and of the four flipper opto boards, only one had the steel lever spring thing. My WCS94 only had one on one side and my ToM doesn't have them on either side.

Are they/were they necessary? Any reason not to add them back now? Thanks.

#3732 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Yes, they are needed to provide spring tension and easy to source and replace.

Great, thanks. I figured as much but wanted to double check. They'll be in my next parts order for sure. Cheers.

#3734 1 year ago

My game screeches most of the time when you turn it on. Like a very loud, very high pitched screech coming from what I assume is the speakers (or backbox). This isn't the "BING" it makes when the game boots (which on another note, is also much louder than any of my other games... except World Cup Soccer, it BINGS loud too).

This screech is the first thing happening when you turn it on and it happens before any lights on the game come on or the display fires up. It also does a quieter, shorter screech most of the time when you shut it off.

The only time it didn't do it for a couple power cycles in a row was after vacuuming out the inside of the cabinet and relieving the magnet rim around the bottom speaker of a variety of fasteners stuck there. Maybe just a coincidence and maybe I bumped a power cord or two inside while cleaning. Not sure, it went back to doing it 90% of the time soon after.

Any ideas? Do they all do that? I can get that maybe all games of the same board set like ToM and WCS do the loud BING after booting up, but this screech has me thinking there is something wrong going on with my game.

1 week later
#3736 1 year ago

When your game boots, and it shows the version of the game ROM, is there any significance of it having an X after the number? Mine is 1.3X and I have seen others with 1.2X. Looking at the ipdb.org ToM page, it shows these X versions under the PinMAME heading, so I was wondering if somehow my game has a ROM in it meant for virtual and not the real physical game?

I am still getting this loud screech at boot-up, so I was thinking about getting a new set of ROMs (one for the game and six I think it is for the sound ROMs).

#3738 1 year ago
Quoted from Gillen:

You have the correct rom, that's how it's named. After getting 2.0 myself it's the rom I recommend for ToM.

Thanks. So the ROM you recommend is that new 2.0 version? Or you like the 1.3 version better still?

#3742 1 year ago

I think they are asking about wing bolts.

#3744 1 year ago
Quoted from rnult13:

Another question, where is a good place to purchase a Spade Screw with a shoulder?
My TOM machine only has one holding the backbox up

Are you looking for these:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9718

#3756 1 year ago
Quoted from 2pupPinz:

Here’s some pix of mine if it helps[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Top left corner of your first picture there is a connector not plugged into anything. A square one that is 2x2 inside (or maybe it’s 2x3). I just noticed on my own game the other day this isn’t plugged in either. What’s the story with that connector? What was it supposed to be used for?

#3759 1 year ago

Do you think that unused plug might have been intended for the unrealized ball saver post that on prototype games popped up between the flippers after hitting the Poof! target? Just a guess. I’m real new to owning my ToM . Absolutely love the game and playing it constantly since getting it. Just finished LEDing it actually.

C127AE28-9910-4FA6-AF6C-A7D9FF36221A (resized).jpegC127AE28-9910-4FA6-AF6C-A7D9FF36221A (resized).jpeg
#3760 1 year ago
#3772 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

UPDATE: I am traveling for work and couldn't check myself, but wanted to get the order in (bored at the hotel, so I am spending money). I just found some pictures, made some counts and looked up the type, and just ordered 30 for now in Sunlight. I think that the game will look really good when I get rid of the pink bulbs.
Does anyone know how many GI bulbs are in a TOM?
I bought a LED "kit" years ago, and I am tired of the light "pink" LED GI lights that came in the kit and want to go white.
Any ideas of how many are needed, the type of bulb (so that I get the bulb right) or even a recommendation on exact bulbs to buy would be great.
Thanks all!

I just did this recently. Got my ToM a few weeks ago and LED'ed the entire thing.

There are 36 wedge base bulbs needed for the backbox (type 555).
Also four wedge base 906 flashers in the backbox.

Playfield has 56 wedge base 555 bulbs for the inserts.
Playfield also has 8 round base 44 bulbs for inserts.

Playfield GI is 36 round base 44 bulbs.

Inside the magic trunk is one wedge base 555 bulb.
And the coin doors are two wedge base 555 bulbs.
Start button and extra ball button have bulbs of course if you're looking to be REALLY thorough lol!

Ok, having said all of that, I use only frosted dome cool white bulbs for both the wedge base 555's and the round base 44's. I believe they are 2-SMD. I get mine from a place I like in Saskatchewan, but others have pretty much the same bulbs.

A used to colour match all my game inserts, but I've been trying just white recently. A couple exceptions I did on ToM was to do the top rollover insert bulbs in green. It comes out kinda spooky and cool under the faces. I think that was actually meant to be like that as I understand the games originally came with those rubber domes over those two bulbs and they were the green rubber dome ones.

Oh, the magic trunk is a green bulb, should have mentioned that.

I also did not do anything yet with the GI bulbs along the backboard. They are the ones behind the "red curtains". Mine were already LED and they looked fine as is so I've left them for now. I think there are less than 6 and mine might be red and the top of the bulb is flat. There might be a spacial constraint in those spots, I'm not 100% sure.

I also didn't touch my flashers on the playfield yet and can't really say how that's supposed to be. There are a bunch under the plastic tinted domes and then I also have a couple odd looking and shaped LED's that seem to be on all the time so I'm thinking they are part of the GI but are bigger bases. Maybe someone else can chime in about those?

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1 week later
#3785 1 year ago

There seem to be two different part numbers for the magnets used on the game. 20-10179 and 20-10197. Are they interchangeable? Or different in some way, strength or physical size that makes them only work properly in certain spots (magic trunk, spirit ring diverter and the two hocus pocus outlanes)?

1 week later
#3808 1 year ago
Quoted from Goalie:

Speaking of LEDs I have three insert lights (shoot again, hat magic, and the second T in theatre) that don’t turn off all the way, they dim a little but won’t turn off. I tried new bulbs but I get the same result. Anyone know what might be the problem?

Perhaps swap the easy things around first. Bulbs you know don’t stay on. Bulb holders as well. Move your problem ones to spots that weren’t an issue. See if there is a pattern of what moves and what doesn’t. All for free AKA no new parts needed for initial troubleshooting.

#3826 1 year ago
Quoted from Goalie:

Yeah it fixes the flashing and the dimming of the GI makes a huge difference, especially on games like ToM. It's night and day difference.

So, just for clarity, which board or boards do you need on a ToM? I was looking at these boards for sale and got a little confused on how many are needed and which one exactly. GI only for ToM or do you need an additional OCD board for the inserts?

I turned off the dimming on my game and I do miss that whole effect.

#3828 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You need both the LEDOCD and GIOCD.

Roger that. Thank you

#3829 1 year ago

Question about the "rest" switch for the captive ball:

Is it supposed to be activated when the ball is sitting there at rest? Or is it meant to be unactivated when the ball is sitting at rest?

Mine is open (unactivated) when the ball is at rest and gets closed (activated) only when the ball moves backwards. The way it is right now looks like both of those captive ball lane switches are open normally and then if the ball starts to move, it triggers the rest switch, and if it gets all the way up to the end, it triggers the second switch. Sort of like how some games have a wire gate on a ramp entrance to let the game know the ball is on the way up the ramp (and sometimes makes a corresponding sound) and the second switch is the confirmation it got all the way around (as opposed to falling short and coming back down).

#3838 1 year ago
Quoted from Indypin:

No sir, not yet. I played the game the night before I went on vacation and noticed the problem then. Going to check it once I get home. They game was playing flawless until this popped up. Never had this problem before even with the first one I had in the collection. Will keep you posted.

I had a similar issue on my game recently.

I went into test mode and started trying switches. Most everything checked out fine until I rolled a couple of balls into the trunk so they went down into the subway and stopped at the lock switches. I saw Lock 1 come on, which was good, then Lock 2 for the second ball and Lock 3 for the third. While doing this though, I saw Lock 1 blip off and then on again. This didn't seem right, so I focused on the Lock 1 switch more.

It wasn't doing it every time, but on occassion, it would not register the ball being in that location. This is a pretty crucial switch for many things including correct trunk multiball start, launching balls back out the trap door and a few others. What I'm saying is, when this switch is confusing the game, all kinds of strange things start happening.

I removed the switch for a closer look and it turns out the lever arm had gotten sloppy. Like it had developed too much play in it so at times it was getting pushed off to the side instead of straight down. This then was contacting the sides of the slot in the metal subway portion that those three switches go into and that interference was causing the missed switch signals.

I didn't have a new switch on hand, will order one though, so in the meantime, I carefully pinched the sides of the metal lever arm a little more closely together so it wouldn't have that sloppy side to side movement. And it seemed to work as that weird trunk / multiball oddness is gone.

Moral of the story: check switches in test mode and test them in different combinations (like more than one at a time like with additional balls in those lock positions) to see if something acts different than what you would expect. Then focus on that.

#3841 1 year ago
Quoted from zhu808:

Thanks for this rundown.. I'm experiencing this problem currently and have been suspecting that switch (along with ball magnetism) to be the cause of either: locked balls being immediately ejected by the trapdoor (the pin that stops balls in the subway is intact), or multiball starting prematurely.

Well, my repair of lock switch 1 didn’t last very long. It’s back to acting weird again. I still think this switch is the culprit although I’m not convinced it’s acting alone. That trap door VUK switch might be hanging up too. Seems really hard to see it though. There’s so much stuff in the way.

Will get a new lock 1 switch for starters and then go from there. One thing at a time might be the best approach so you actually know what fixed it.

1 week later
#3853 1 year ago

Could someone please post a photo or two of a factory speaker set-up, looking from the backside? I'd like to see how it is wired and where any capacitors or extra coils are (if there are any) that might have been included for directing low or high frequency sounds to one speaker or another.

These are what mine look like at the moment:

IMG_8584 (resized).JPGIMG_8584 (resized).JPGIMG_8626 (resized).JPGIMG_8626 (resized).JPG
#3856 1 year ago
Quoted from altan:

Really basic question before I did into it further.
My TOM trunk is registering just fine. However, there’s no game sound effect when the pinball hits it.
Is that just the way TOM is?

If I'm not mistaken, it will depend on what mode is on at the moment when you hit it. And will often coincide with an animation on the DMD.

Like a thud here as it hits the trunk... if a trunk hit starts a mode and earns you some award, that's the sound it'll do. Hitting the trunk say during multiball when you have to hit it more than once to get it to turn and open up the jackpot hole, should make the thud sound.

2 weeks later
#3863 1 year ago

Could someone point me in the direction of the PIN2DMD colorization files for Theatre of Magic?

I looked on VPUniverse and did not see them there.

#3866 1 year ago
Quoted from Goalie:

What is the correct color spring for the shooter rod on this game. I just swapped out the rod for a brass one that came with a red spring, but the ball doesn’t make it up the shooter ramp. I put the original grey one on it and around 25% of the time the ball won’t make it up the shooter ramp.

Parts list calls for: spring-shooter black .031

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-148

Note: the .031 means the diameter of the wire making up the spring is 0.031" The larger this number, the stronger the spring.

#3869 1 year ago

Recently put a colour display in my ToM. With colorization by Martin. Looks fantastic. Game is pretty much how I want it now. All LED'ed, purple rubber rings, post sleeves and flipper rubber, trunk and hocus pocus magnets and everything else working exactly how it was intended to. Such a fun game.

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#3881 1 year ago
Quoted from tlon:

Oh yeah, one other question:
What is this part called, and can it be sourced/replaced? It appears someone tried to pry here with a screwdriver; chipped the glass a bit and bent the hell out of the plastic part.[quoted image]

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8091

#3884 1 year ago

Has anyone bought this THEATER OF MAGIC PINBALL COIN DOOR MAGNET 3 PIECE SET and can speak to the quality? Well made and built to last or cheap? I was figuring on getting a set for my game...

ebay.com link: itm

1 month later
#3910 1 year ago
Quoted from polishedball:

FYI Brian Allen dropped the alt backglass, sideblades, cabinet art etc Yesterday on his site

Got link?

#3918 1 year ago
Quoted from GreenMachine19:

I had the 3D translite for this game. It wasn’t great. My wife hated it. She said it looked blurry. I really like that alternate art. I too have the acrylic on my CCr and love it. Don’t really care for the AFMr or MMr versions otherwise I would have those too. Too much trolls on MMr and too much aliens on AFMr. The Fishtales one is amazing.

Interesting choice of words for the translite… blurry. That’s exactly how I would describe my factory original one. The lines of the artwork aren’t crisp. Are they all like this? Any reason why they chose to do it like that?

#3919 1 year ago

This is how mine looks as we speak. Would this translite be a factory original? It does not appear to have any 3D aspects to it.

IMG_9592 (resized).JPGIMG_9592 (resized).JPG
1 week later
#3939 1 year ago

I was looking at the rubber rings list for ToM recently and noticed it calls for there to be a post sleeve (23-6556) right between where it goes either inlane or outlane. This is on both the left and right sides of the playfield. It is item "B" on the list in the manual. My game has the small rings (item C, 23-6641 mini-post rings) on both of those and not sleeves. I don't think the metal posts in either of those two spots would accommodate a rubber sleeve the way they are anyway.

Anyone ever see a post sleeve in these two spots like the manual calls out for?

#3942 1 year ago
Quoted from DJK77:

My game has two small rings no post sleeve

Quoted from dgAmpGuy:

I just got done doing all new rings, cleaning, and a playfield protector on our game. The list in the manual has a lot of errors. The lists on the titan pinball site were pretty much copies of the manual, so I ended up doing 2 orders and having a little pile of spares…
But, it’s still nice to have it done and clean.
Dave

Thanks to you both for responding.

I had a feeling it was the manual that was wrong and not the rubber rings vs post sleeves in my actual game.

You are 100% right about those rubber ring lists and kits being inaccurate or inconsistent. Not one of the hobby's best efforts right across the board.

I am doing a playfield tear down to my World Cup Soccer and noticed the same. Actually, it's worse because they didn't even include a page in the manual for rubber rings! No list and no drawing. Whoops! So I'm partly looking online to see pictures of what other games look like and then taking inventory of what has come out of my own game. Unlike making a light bulb list the same way, trying to measure old, stretched and worn out rubber rings isn't very accurate either!!

#3948 1 year ago
Quoted from dgAmpGuy:

Has anyone experienced having the ball get stuck at the start of the wire ramp, just behind the right ball gate up at the top right side? You have to wait for the ball search to lift the gate and the shake the heck out of the game to get it to roll into the lanes. If the tilt bob was properly set up it would be fatal. Thanks for any input.
Dave

Yes, mine was doing this. Not all the time, but when it tried to go up that wire form without enough speed and then settled in that exact spot just as the flap came down and trapped it, like you, you just couldn't seem to shake it loose.

I had a sheet of Mylar and cut a small one to basically cover that recess where the wireform ends dip under the playfield surface. I had to try a couple different positions to get it to work every time, but it finally solved the issue.

1 week later
#3967 1 year ago
Quoted from mycarlooksfast:

Hi everyone, I joined the club last week and I was having a blast playing the game for a few days but now I'm getting some really annoying mechanical issues popping up. I have spent a lot of time troubleshooting and can't seem to figure out what is going on.
The first problem are balls not physically locking in the subway. I send a ball down there with the lock lit (or the secret ball lock) and it displays ball 1 locked on the dmd but it immediately spits the ball out of the trap door instead of keeping it down there and popping another ball out into the shooter lane. Then with the lock lit, it will not lock ball 2 and just keeps spitting the ball out, so multiball is impossible to achieve. The subway opto, subway micro, lock 1/2/3, and popper switches all test fine in single switch test. When I roll a ball down into the subway, the switch edge test shows them registering consecutively as they should. The solenoid that stops the balls in the subway tests ok. Was working fine a few days ago and now it's acting up. Any ideas what to check next?
The second problem is the GI string #1 is acting strangely. After swapping out the inserts and GI on the playfield with LEDs, I noticed the upper backbox was not lit up and the entire string is not working. Checked voltage at each socket and I'm getting 6.5 volts and when I plug in an incandescent bulb, it lights up but a brand new comet LED does not. The rest of the LEDs in the backbox work fine. Anyone see this before?

Check the optos in the ball trough to see if they are all registering correctly. Perhaps it won’t spit a ball out into the shooter lane and keep a ball locked because it doesn’t realize there is a ball in the trough.

Confirm you have 4 balls total installed in the game? Not counting the captive ball.

Perhaps the led bulbs you are using are not making good contact with the holders? Are we talking round base bulbs or wedge base?

#3972 1 year ago
Quoted from littlecammi:

There are four balls in my Theatre of Magic, but I'm pretty sure Rita didn't install them.

Auto-correct... a mind of it's own sometimes!

#3982 1 year ago

Great looking line-up!!

2 weeks later
#3999 1 year ago

I noticed something on my game last night that I hadn't realized before. When/if you get to the Grand Finale and you need to do any 12 shots, each for 50 million in order to complete the mode and get the 500 million bonus, it sequentially lights up the letters MAGIC and THEATRE on the playfield to show how many you got or still need. I just noticed it does that. Must have previously been so preoccupied with looking at the display animations that I missed that. Pretty cool. Anyway, just thought I'd mention it in case someone else hadn't realized that either.

#4006 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The magnet needs to be FIRMLY against the wood of the playfield.
It shoudnt be loose or turn easily.
Often the bent washer that keeps the pressure on the magnet is missing or has lost its tension.
I put 2 of the bent washers on each of my magnets to get them tight enough.
Bend the "bent washer" a bit to get more pressure on it.
If you are missing the bent washers, marco has them.

Do you have a part number for these bent washers and a photo to show how they go in? I'd like to make sure my own magnets have these as my left magnet does this wobbling too.

#4009 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its missing the bent washer.
They are always missing because they lose tension and nobody knows what they are called, or they just get lost?
It just goes under the bracket and pole (on top of the magnet spool) to add pressure to the magnet so its tight against the wood.
Its a special "double saddle" washer with a 3/4" inner diameter and a 1" outer diameter.
Or 19.5mm ID x 25mm OD
Its called a "wave" washer. Its not mysterious, you can get them all over the place.
Bicycles us a lot of them.
Also called "crinkle washers".
You local hardware store might have them if you dont want to pay $12 shipping.
Some games like TAF have 2 washers on the cores to add additional pressure:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9612
amazon.com link »
I put 2 on each of my magnets.
You can bend then further if needed to get them tighter (especially if you only have one washer).
The part number (20-9612) is either in the ToM manual or the TAF manual, both games use them.

Thank you very much for the link and part number and explanation.

I got under my ToM and had a look at the left side magnet. It rotates fairly freely by hand but I wouldn't call it loose or sloppy. The right side is much firmer in place.

I took the bracket out and there was a single wave washer in place. It might have lost some of its springyness and ability to push up on the magnet though. I will look more closely at the right side magnet and also the magna save in my WCS which apparently also has these washers in it.

Regardless, I'll grab a few of them and perhaps replace the old one that is in there and add a second one to see what the effect is. Glad to have a direction to go with this in any event.

Cheers!

4 weeks later
#4020 11 months ago
Quoted from archimandrite:

Is the Rubber Ring page in the manual accurate? (I admit I haven't done my homework on this.)

Mostly, but not entirely. I just finished doing rubber rings and post sleeves on my game earlier this week. Kit from Titan was included with the game when I got it, but mostly uninstalled.

The metal posts between inlane and outlane on both sides aren't suitable for a rubber sleeve. Mine are the kinds you slip a small rubber ring over. Like a 23-6694-1. In fact, I would get a bunch of extra of these, maybe ten as this is about the size to use on the posts around the trunk as well as the mini-star posts that are on a few of the plastic pieces to deter ball hang-ups. Those ball hang-up mini-post rubbers never seem to be shown on the diagrams with the correct quantities.

I would also keep a few extra 5/16" regular star post rings onhand as I think I used more of these than what the diagram called for too.

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#4022 11 months ago
Quoted from yamangold:

Just replaced rubbers on my TOM, agree ai need a few more 5/16” and the small mini post ones. The manual also called for a 1-1/2” flipper rubber that I could not figure out what it was for

That 3rd flipper rubber, the smaller one, is supposed to slip over the two metal ramp support posts. Intended to deter ball hang-ups back there apparently.

IMG_0407 (resized).JPGIMG_0407 (resized).JPG
#4025 11 months ago

Got a U6 CHECKSUM error yesterday on my ToM. Intermittent though as it came on when I powered up my games, stayed there as a credit dot while I played one full game and then was gone after I shut the machine down and turned it back on a few minutes later. Only thing odd noticed during gameplay with the error active was that a couple of the colorizations on my PIN2DMD were off slightly. After that everything was back to normal.

Manual says to replace the CPU ROM if you get this error. Is it on its way out or is there something else I should be checking?

I replaced all my ROMs (CPU and all the sound ones) in November last year. CPU ROM is version 1.3X.

1 week later
#4037 11 months ago

Mailman delivered a little package from talented artist Brian Allen today. Alternate translite for my Theatre of Magic and I gotta say, it looks spectacular!!

13FEEA04-7643-4713-8E69-61915B1B03EC (resized).jpeg13FEEA04-7643-4713-8E69-61915B1B03EC (resized).jpeg
#4041 10 months ago
Quoted from sevenrites:

Long shot, I know, but I just missed a chance at an indestructible trunk that was headed to Pinfest.
Does anyone else have an extra indestructible trunk they'd be willing to part with?
Less than 200 plays on mine since I got it and already broke 2 of the POS ones that are available elsewhere. It's getting a bit frustrating.

Did you do anything to try and reinforce the crappy style ones?

I’ve seen padding used on the inside to fill up the space between the backside of the trunk plastic and the metal bracket it sits in. I found padding that worked pretty well at an arts and crafts store. It was an 8.5x11 sheet and I think it was only $2. You could get black or white. I lined the lower lip of my trunk with that stuff so there isn’t any excess room for the plastic to move or bend and it seems to help.

1 week later
#4049 10 months ago

Got my Brian Allen art blades installed and I think I'm done tricking out my game (pretty punny, lol).

Since I've had the game (less than a year)...

Got the alternate translite and art blades from Brian Allen.
Titan rubber rings, post sleeves and flipper rubbers.
New white, Williams logo flipper bats.
Flipper rebuilds done on both sides (coil stop, coil sleeve, plunger, spring, screws)
New flipper buttons as well as the spring plates on the inside for the optos as they were missing.
New LED bulbs in backbox, GI and playfield inserts.
New balls x5
New amber star posts, although a few still to be done as I didn't have enough on hand when I had it apart last time.
New transparent orange coin chute plastics as the originals were chipped and murky.
Coin mechanisms replaced with working units (Canadian coins).
New trap door metal flap, decal and fasteners.
New slinghsot plastics.
PIN2DMD colour display with colorization from Martin in Germany.
New leg levellers, leg bolts and leg protectors.
New backbox wingbolts.
New Lithium batteries (original boards, not yet NVRAM)
New ROMs for game and sound.
New playfield glass.
New lockdown bar with new beer seal and new lockdown bar receiver assembly along with replacement warning stickers.

Game already had upgraded, auto-calibrating Eddy sensor boards for both Hocus Pocus saves and the trunk hit.

I think that's it! I may still look at getting one of the toy mods to sit in the back right corner, like the lit up lady magician. Otherwise it's just a joy to play as is!

IMG_0799 (resized).JPGIMG_0799 (resized).JPGIMG_0800 (resized).JPGIMG_0800 (resized).JPGIMG_0801 (resized).JPGIMG_0801 (resized).JPGIMG_0802 (resized).JPGIMG_0802 (resized).JPGIMG_0803 (resized).JPGIMG_0803 (resized).JPGIMG_0804 (resized).JPGIMG_0804 (resized).JPGIMG_0808 (resized).JPGIMG_0808 (resized).JPG
#4053 10 months ago
Quoted from tlon:

Adding more pictures… any advice on where sw44 is supposed to sit and how?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey, ok, I couldn't find any of my own pics to show you so I tried to use one of yours. Yours are good too, thanks for adding those.

Ok, so all four of those switches you mentioned should show as open in test mode. The first three that are ok in your test are the ball lock ones, lined-up for when multiball is ready. The fourth one, SW44, is this one I'm circling in GREEN. While those other three switches have the long, skinny arm that physically contacts the ball as it goes by in the subway, the SW44 micro-switch arm does not. It is oddly enough already in the correct position where you see it. The idea is for that VUK (vertical up kicker) forked looking end thing to push down on the switch blade when a ball is in there.

What I think has happened is that screw end that I was really trying to circle in the photo, has actually gone behind the plastic base of the switch instead of through the hole in it. Can you see what I mean? There are two screws holding it in place and that tiny metal bar acts as your nut(s). See how it isn't straight? If you tipped the switch base down so that it lines up with where the screw is, and then that screw goes through the second hole in the switch base, the switch blade will have to also rotate down (or to the right in the photo) and then it will give you the movement needed. Because right now it is already all the way down and is triggering the switch, which it shouldn't be doing when there is no ball in there.

Let me know if that makes sense. Probably too wordy on what I wrote. Hopefully you get what I mean. Basically just take that one screw out (and likely need to loosen the other one), rotate the switch down slightly so you can reinsert that screw through the switch base and then tighten it all back up and you should be good.

ToM VUK switch position (resized).jpgToM VUK switch position (resized).jpg
#4056 10 months ago
Quoted from tlon:

AlexRogan84 ok so I assembled this all before reinstalling it in the pin…. When it is at rest, sw44 is closed. Is there some magic position where the VUK doesn’t close the switch unless a ball is on it? I may have put the spring on the wrong side of the VUK? Not sure how to get this switch to be open with the VUK resting on it. Can you check your spring locations on the VUK plunger?

You are missing the 10-428 spring between the underside of the VUK ball rest and the top of the coil bracket. It is shown in the manual, page 2-27.

#4057 10 months ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

You are missing the 10-428 spring between the underside of the VUK ball rest and the top of the coil bracket. It is shown in the manual, page 2-27.

There are two 10-428 springs needed here. One above and one below.

2 weeks later
#4089 9 months ago
Quoted from MeJeremy:

Ball drains down the middle after being dropped by the trunk during midnight madness. Is there something I'm missing? Level on the machine seems fine. Anyone else have this issue?

I've found that's very sensitive to left-right leveling. My game normally drops it to the tip of the left flipper. If I've moved the game around a little in the room and got to a spot where it's now slightly higher on the left legs than the right, it will go straight down the middle after getting released. Double check your leg levellers and raise the ones on the right slightly or lower the ones on the left a little. Also make sure the playfield is sitting down in the recesses in the lockdown receiver as it's meant to be.

2 weeks later
#4114 9 months ago

My ToM does that big, power-on DONG. Actually, my WCS right beside it does it even louder. Maybe it's a WPC-Security board thing? Like a beep-beep when a truck is backing up, lol?

#4118 9 months ago

THE DONGER NEED FOOD!!

1 month later
#4151 7 months ago
Quoted from oradke:

My TOM also occasionally has problems with 2 balls stuck in vanish. Goes into ball search for a couple of minutes, then pops em both out. Any ideas where to start troubleshooting would be appreciated.

When I had my game torn down, I noticed there was a small black spacer under the one side of the ball gate up at the top. When I put my game back together, I didn't get it back in the right way and the wire gate was just off by enough to inhibit the ball from getting ejected properly. I went back in and reinstalled it the way it was supposed to and no more balls getting trapped up there trying over and over again to eject.

2 months later
#4180 5 months ago

Could someone post a photo of the back of their speaker panel for me? I am trying to confirm the wiring is correct to the speakers. Specifically the smaller of the two on the right side. The one with that little blue cylindrical do-dad wired in series with the speaker wires. What does that little blue do-dad do btw?

#4182 5 months ago
Quoted from oradke:

It‘s a high-pass filter, designed to keep lower frequencies away from the small speaker.

Thanks. Sounds simple enough. My ToM has this power on screech roughly half the time I turn it on and I don't know why. I have a World Cup Soccer right beside it so thought I would try and see what, if anything, was wired different or looked different. I noticed this little blue high-pass filter on my ToM is connected to the black-yellow wire and it's connected to the plain black wire on my WCS. Wasn't sure if they were directional.

I'm really grasping at what might be causing the shriek and this is about the only thing that I saw. It sure seems to sound like it is coming from the top two speakers and not the bottom one. Maybe the left side speaker of the top two as well although that's harder to say for certain. It hurts your ears it's that loud and honestly I'm concerned it might damage some electrical component if left like this indefinitely. Thanks.

#4184 5 months ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

My Funhouse made (perhaps?) a similar sound when I first bought it. You can see/hear it @ 2:25 in the following video on my YouTube channel. Is it the same issue you have? I could not identify the issue and installed a mod which keeps the speaker line open for about 2 seconds while the game is powered on.

Thanks for the link. Nice Funhouse btw too! That isn't quite the same sound. Yours does have that "mechanical" sound to it whereas the one coming out of my ToM is more like the shriek or screech you might hear with electrical interference like when a microphone gets too close to the speaker.

Not quite like Marty about to sing Johnny B Goode, but close...

Let me see if I can capture it on a video and I'll post it here...

#4185 5 months ago

I made a short video powering on my games. Theatre of Magic is 2nd and the shriek is at about the 25 second mark. Not sure if the computer speakers do it justice for just how loud it is. And high pitched. It hurts the ears when it does this. What do you think?

3 weeks later
#4202 4 months ago
Quoted from Scott250r:

Hello all, while enjoying my theatre of magic I've encountered something I wish to change. The tension on the flipper buttons seems very weak to me. Is this a factory opto operated switch for the buttons? It appears to be a a piece of plastic that provides the tension. Is there a way to change this so it kind of snaps back more if you know what I mean
Thanks
[quoted image]

Yes. You're missing the steel spring lever piece: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-14348.1

Here is a picture of the entire assembly with the steel spring lever installed: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17316

1 month later
#4233 3 months ago

Hocus Pocus ball save question:

What's the intention with the insert lights for the hocus pocus targets? When they are lit solid, the ball save is active and ready if your ball goes towards the outlane? And when they flash, it's telling you it is timing out?

I know the length of time they are active can be set in the settings. 15 seconds is the default. And unless I'm mistaken, either target enables both left and right ball saves for that same length of time? It's not one target for left side and the other target for the right side?

1 month later
#4238 66 days ago
Quoted from Stuby-Doo:

Looking for some help.
Game powers on, has lights, but no DMD display, and game won't start.
Any advice on where to look would be helpful and appreciated.
Thanks,
Stu

Usual place to start would be the ribbon cables in the backbox. Remove each connector and replug into the boards, paying close attention to making sure the pins are lined up correctly. The ribbon cables can and do wear out over time. You can buy replacements either individually or as a kit for the game.

While you're in the backbox, get a Phillips screwdriver and carefully check to see that each and every screw holding those circuit boards to the backing are tight. Some of those screws are provding a grounding pathway for the boards.

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