(Topic ID: 43909)

Theatre of Magic Club

By Nilroc

11 years ago


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  • 4,371 posts
  • 514 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by CFoote
  • Topic is favorited by 240 Pinsiders

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There are 4,371 posts in this topic. You are on page 82 of 88.
#4051 1 year ago

Hi all - can someone describe how the switch sw44 is supposed to be mounted in the tunnel? Right now the eject solenoid is closing the switch when it is not energized… I can tell from the behavior of the machine this is not right, but I can’t figure out how to adjust this to normal. Any photos or advice appreciated

Please check T.17 and tell me the state before you drop any balls in…

IMG_9657 (resized).jpegIMG_9657 (resized).jpegIMG_9658 (resized).jpegIMG_9658 (resized).jpeg
#4052 1 year ago

Adding more pictures… any advice on where sw44 is supposed to sit and how?

IMG_9661 (resized).jpegIMG_9661 (resized).jpegIMG_9662 (resized).jpegIMG_9662 (resized).jpegIMG_9663 (resized).jpegIMG_9663 (resized).jpegIMG_9664 (resized).jpegIMG_9664 (resized).jpegIMG_9665 (resized).jpegIMG_9665 (resized).jpegIMG_9666 (resized).jpegIMG_9666 (resized).jpegIMG_9667 (resized).jpegIMG_9667 (resized).jpeg
#4053 1 year ago
Quoted from tlon:

Adding more pictures… any advice on where sw44 is supposed to sit and how?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey, ok, I couldn't find any of my own pics to show you so I tried to use one of yours. Yours are good too, thanks for adding those.

Ok, so all four of those switches you mentioned should show as open in test mode. The first three that are ok in your test are the ball lock ones, lined-up for when multiball is ready. The fourth one, SW44, is this one I'm circling in GREEN. While those other three switches have the long, skinny arm that physically contacts the ball as it goes by in the subway, the SW44 micro-switch arm does not. It is oddly enough already in the correct position where you see it. The idea is for that VUK (vertical up kicker) forked looking end thing to push down on the switch blade when a ball is in there.

What I think has happened is that screw end that I was really trying to circle in the photo, has actually gone behind the plastic base of the switch instead of through the hole in it. Can you see what I mean? There are two screws holding it in place and that tiny metal bar acts as your nut(s). See how it isn't straight? If you tipped the switch base down so that it lines up with where the screw is, and then that screw goes through the second hole in the switch base, the switch blade will have to also rotate down (or to the right in the photo) and then it will give you the movement needed. Because right now it is already all the way down and is triggering the switch, which it shouldn't be doing when there is no ball in there.

Let me know if that makes sense. Probably too wordy on what I wrote. Hopefully you get what I mean. Basically just take that one screw out (and likely need to loosen the other one), rotate the switch down slightly so you can reinsert that screw through the switch base and then tighten it all back up and you should be good.

ToM VUK switch position (resized).jpgToM VUK switch position (resized).jpg
#4054 1 year ago

AlexRogan84 - AKA "Eagle Eye".

#4055 1 year ago

AlexRogan84 ok so I assembled this all before reinstalling it in the pin…. When it is at rest, sw44 is closed. Is there some magic position where the VUK doesn’t close the switch unless a ball is on it? I may have put the spring on the wrong side of the VUK? Not sure how to get this switch to be open with the VUK resting on it. Can you check your spring locations on the VUK plunger?

#4056 1 year ago
Quoted from tlon:

AlexRogan84 ok so I assembled this all before reinstalling it in the pin…. When it is at rest, sw44 is closed. Is there some magic position where the VUK doesn’t close the switch unless a ball is on it? I may have put the spring on the wrong side of the VUK? Not sure how to get this switch to be open with the VUK resting on it. Can you check your spring locations on the VUK plunger?

You are missing the 10-428 spring between the underside of the VUK ball rest and the top of the coil bracket. It is shown in the manual, page 2-27.

#4057 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

You are missing the 10-428 spring between the underside of the VUK ball rest and the top of the coil bracket. It is shown in the manual, page 2-27.

There are two 10-428 springs needed here. One above and one below.

#4058 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

There are two 10-428 springs needed here. One above and one below.

Bingo. That’s what’s missing. No idea where it went or maybe it was always missing but the game played flawlessly before disassembly

Thanks

#4059 1 year ago

As part of my rebuild I sourced an NOS left ramp and installed new spring steel and decals and Cliffys

When I shout the left ramp, the ball is launching airborne. It hits the plastic deflector sometimes, but once it launched and missed it completely. Any tips or tricks on curbing that behavior? It didn’t do this before the rebuild.

#4060 1 year ago

I've seen posts on similar problems, but if there were any on this exact issue I missed them. I sometimes experience a delay getting a ball fed from the trap door. It will open as many as four times before a ball feeds. Is this definitely the popper coil? Am I correct that the trap door wouldn't open unless a ball was in the popper? (Same as a VUK, right?)

Thanks.

#4061 1 year ago
Quoted from archimandrite:

I've seen posts on similar problems, but if there were any on this exact issue I missed them. I sometimes experience a delay getting a ball fed from the trap door. It will open as many as four times before a ball feeds. Is this definitely the popper coil? Am I correct that the trap door wouldn't open unless a ball was in the popper? (Same as a VUK, right?)
Thanks.

Put some more solder on the popper coil connections and all appears to be well. But, in the coil test menu, it goes 1,2,3,5. The popper coil is #4. What's up with that?

#4062 1 year ago

I keep blowing the fuse for GI string 4 off my GI-OCD… I’ve traced the green and white green wires and I don’t see any sources of shorts…. But I know there has to be one. Anyone else had an issue after shopping out their machine where something is snorting the GI string? How did you find it?

IMG_9707 (resized).jpegIMG_9707 (resized).jpeg
#4063 1 year ago
Quoted from tlon:

I keep blowing the fuse for GI string 4 off my GI-OCD… I’ve traced the green and white green wires and I don’t see any sources of shorts…. But I know there has to be one. Anyone else had an issue after shopping out their machine where something is snorting the GI string? How did you find it?[quoted image]

All your pins and connectors in good shape?

#4064 1 year ago

polishedball the GI-OCD replaces the power board so pins are a non-issue. Connectors were replaced by last owner and everything was working right before I shopped it out…. I figure something must be pinched or bent, but I can’t find anything…. Figured maybe someone else had run into some oddities with this string, so thought I’d ask

#4065 1 year ago

… I’ve followed the green/white green pair to every bulb socket and I don’t see any shorts.

I also noted that the fuse blows when I push the “start” button. I’m thinking of putting it in test mode and testing individual circuits until I find when one pops the GI string…. Any other suggestions?

Ps - i can play the whole game through and I’m not noticing any errors or unexpected behavior elsewhere…

IMG_9709 (resized).jpegIMG_9709 (resized).jpeg
#4066 1 year ago

On my Congo I had a GI string out. Drove me crazy. I looked up each bulb location on the string and one-by-one took out each bulb and looked at the socket connections but also looked inside the empty socket with a flashlight. Sure enough, one of the sockets had like a broken piece of glass in it. I took it out and it has been fine ever since.

#4067 1 year ago

Mank i just pulled all the bulbs from that string and the problem goes away. I’ll start hunting for the culprit (bulb or socket) next weekend.

IMG_9719 (resized).jpegIMG_9719 (resized).jpeg
#4068 1 year ago

Excellent. Check each socket carefully inside and out. Replace each bulb one at a time and turn game back on after replacing each bulb.

#4069 1 year ago

I'm looking for some parts to mock up a trunk. I've make an X-Files cabinet that takes some abuse and it's been holding up well. Several people have asked if I would be interested in making a trunk mod for TOM. I got an old warped trunk from a friend so I got the design down but I don't trust the fit. I would need at least the base, cover plate, magnet bracket and the four hex (8-32 X 3.88") spacers. Really I only need one spacer and then I can make the other three. With these parts I should be able to accurately design a trunk without the whole mech. Feel free to PM me if you want to make a deal on a free trunk (If I do actually make one) or I can just buy the parts off you. Thanks!

#4070 1 year ago

Hey just a quick FYI there is a new source of Silicone replacement trunks out of Italy. I connected with an individual that has crafted a legit replica from an indestructible silicone (he demonstrates “sending” the box with a 3 wood driver no harm to the box. He is really novice at international shipping; I used a local friend to forward the package from Italy to the USA… but the workmanship is great and it is indestructible!

IMG_9728 (resized).jpegIMG_9728 (resized).jpeg
#4071 1 year ago
Quoted from tlon:

Hey just a quick FYI there is a new source of Silicone replacement trunks out of Italy. I connected with an individual that has crafted a legit replica from an indestructible silicone (he demonstrates “sending” the box with a 3 wood driver no harm to the box. He is really novice at international shipping; I used a local friend to forward the package from Italy to the USA… but the workmanship is great and it is indestructible!
[quoted image]

If he’s interested in a US distributor please let him know I’m interested.

- David

Pinballprints.com

#4072 1 year ago

If anyone around NE Ohio wants to sell their Tom pm me.

#4073 1 year ago
Quoted from tlon:

Hey just a quick FYI there is a new source of Silicone replacement trunks out of Italy. I connected with an individual that has crafted a legit replica from an indestructible silicone (he demonstrates “sending” the box with a 3 wood driver no harm to the box. He is really novice at international shipping; I used a local friend to forward the package from Italy to the USA… but the workmanship is great and it is indestructible!
[quoted image]

Get me one!

#4074 1 year ago
Quoted from tlon:

Hey just a quick FYI there is a new source of Silicone replacement trunks out of Italy. I connected with an individual that has crafted a legit replica from an indestructible silicone (he demonstrates “sending” the box with a 3 wood driver no harm to the box. He is really novice at international shipping; I used a local friend to forward the package from Italy to the USA… but the workmanship is great and it is indestructible!
[quoted image]

I've always wanted to put one of these in my TOM for regular play and save a NOS stock for posterity. I have not been a big fan of the paint bleed on these though, but for regular use I would still love to get one.

#4075 1 year ago
Quoted from tlon:

Hey just a quick FYI there is a new source of Silicone replacement trunks out of Italy. I connected with an individual that has crafted a legit replica from an indestructible silicone (he demonstrates “sending” the box with a 3 wood driver no harm to the box. He is really novice at international shipping; I used a local friend to forward the package from Italy to the USA… but the workmanship is great and it is indestructible!
[quoted image]

Where can we get it?

#4077 1 year ago
Quoted from Gillen:

Where can we get it?

Second this!

#4080 1 year ago
Quoted from tlon:

Hey just a quick FYI there is a new source of Silicone replacement trunks out of Italy. I connected with an individual that has crafted a legit replica from an indestructible silicone (he demonstrates “sending” the box with a 3 wood driver no harm to the box. He is really novice at international shipping; I used a local friend to forward the package from Italy to the USA… but the workmanship is great and it is indestructible!
[quoted image]

Hi
I would definitely purchase one! Help out a local Wisconsin guy!

#4081 1 year ago

I'd be in for one too!

#4082 1 year ago

Me too!

#4084 1 year ago

I also need an indestructible trunk.

#4085 1 year ago

...and yet...

#4086 1 year ago

Not me (already got the genuine indestructible trunk)!

#4087 1 year ago

Well I thought I had my GI string 4 issue sorted out, but it keeps randomly shorting. I can consistently get the fuse to blow if I fire the middle loop post solenoid (the one behind the trunk), even with no bulbs in the string. I’m stumped. I don’t know if there is a relationship between the GI string and the high voltage solenoids, other than at the transformer. None of this was happening before I disassembled and installed the GI-OCD boards, but I did add a pinduino and a tiger saw mod too. All that stuff works just fine, I just keep losing GI4. I don’t really know where to go next on this.

#4088 1 year ago

Ball drains down the middle after being dropped by the trunk during midnight madness. Is there something I'm missing? Level on the machine seems fine. Anyone else have this issue?

#4089 1 year ago
Quoted from MeJeremy:

Ball drains down the middle after being dropped by the trunk during midnight madness. Is there something I'm missing? Level on the machine seems fine. Anyone else have this issue?

I've found that's very sensitive to left-right leveling. My game normally drops it to the tip of the left flipper. If I've moved the game around a little in the room and got to a spot where it's now slightly higher on the left legs than the right, it will go straight down the middle after getting released. Double check your leg levellers and raise the ones on the right slightly or lower the ones on the left a little. Also make sure the playfield is sitting down in the recesses in the lockdown receiver as it's meant to be.

#4090 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

I've found that's very sensitive to left-right leveling. My game normally drops it to the tip of the left flipper. If I've moved the game around a little in the room and got to a spot where it's now slightly higher on the left legs than the right, it will go straight down the middle after getting released. Double check your leg levellers and raise the ones on the right slightly or lower the ones on the left a little. Also make sure the playfield is sitting down in the recesses in the lockdown receiver as it's meant to be.

This is the same solution that I used on mine. The right side needs to be ever so slightly higher than the left side and the ball will drop to the tip of the left flipper.

Gord

#4091 1 year ago
Quoted from tlon:

Hey just a quick FYI there is a new source of Silicone replacement trunks out of Italy. I connected with an individual that has crafted a legit replica from an indestructible silicone (he demonstrates “sending” the box with a 3 wood driver no harm to the box. He is really novice at international shipping; I used a local friend to forward the package from Italy to the USA… but the workmanship is great and it is indestructible!
[quoted image]

Not to be like that but is there a source available or is it just for you?
Not wanna be rude but coming in and saying there is a new source for trunks and going silence on just this thread is just like when I order a Stern machine and have to wait a year or two and distributor is not answering my mails when everyone else gets their machines in a month or two. Guess I don't have patience.

Will we get any more information or was it just to living the thread up a bit? Happy for you at least, you got a nice looking trunk.

#4093 1 year ago

Thx, really appreciated! Sent him a message.

#4094 1 year ago
Quoted from Gillen:

Thx, really appreciated! Sent him a message.

I don't do Facebook but am interested in one as well. If you find out ordering information can you pass that along?

#4095 1 year ago
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:

I don't do Facebook but am interested in one as well. If you find out ordering information can you pass that along?

He wants $240 for the rubber trunk.

Its a bit high for what it is IMHO.

#4096 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

He wants $240 for the rubber trunk.
Its a bit high for what it is IMHO.

I was quoted 240 Euro for one shipped to Florida, so almost $260 USD. I agree it is a bit steep, for me anyway.

#4097 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I was quoted 240 Euro for one shipped to Florida, so almost $260 USD. I agree it is a bit steep, for me anyway.

Yeah, I have 4 originals that will last me a few years.

$260 for a rubber box is true gouging.

Im not paying it.

#4098 1 year ago
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:

I don't do Facebook but am interested in one as well. If you find out ordering information can you pass that along?

You need to pm the guy at messenger, so I guess you will need a FB account for that.

#4099 1 year ago

On the middle ramp when the trapdoor shot is lit, I noticed on my machine it won't pop up the trapdoor if I hit the ramp with the right flipper. It pops up the trapdoor only when I hit the shot with the left flipper. Is this normal?

#4100 1 year ago
Quoted from MeJeremy:

On the middle ramp when the trapdoor shot is lit, I noticed on my machine it won't pop up the trapdoor if I hit the ramp with the right flipper. It pops up the trapdoor only when I hit the shot with the left flipper. Is this normal?

No, flipper used shouldn't matter.

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