The machine has an HD pin2DMD display from Stumblor Pinball but Retro City in Australia also sells them, and both companies are top notch with fantastic customer service

The playfield is a new Mirco TOM playfield. I read posts with concerns over the colors used by Mirco on his TOM playfields, but it seems to me that most of those concerns have been addressed, because the playfield I received is nearly identical, if not superior, to the original... and without all of the wear, of course.

What is the recommended pitch for this game? For some reason, when I hit the right ramp and it loops around to feed the wire form, it usually it’s going too fast and flies off the playfield shortly before reaching the wire form. Almost seems like it needs something to slow the ball down to feed the wire form cleanly

New club member here -- I just doubled the size of my pin collection! Two questions for my fellow magicians:

1. Is anyone still selling motorized saw mods? Pinball Decals has one listed on their site, but it's pricey and includes a lighted mirror that I could do without.

2. Has anyone solved the common issue where the left inlane magnet is not as strong as the right one, and releases the ball while it's still wiggling around? My magnet sometimes tosses the ball back into the outlane. Luckily ROM 2.0 awards an extra ball when that happens!

IMG_6306 (resized).jpeg

The magnet needs to be FIRMLY against the wood of the playfield.

It shoudnt be loose or turn easily.

Often the bent washer that keeps the pressure on the magnet is missing or has lost its tension.

I put 2 of the bent washers on each of my magnets to get them tight enough.

Bend the "bent washer" a bit to get more pressure on it.

If you are missing the bent washers, marco has them.

Do you have a part number for these bent washers and a photo to show how they go in? I'd like to make sure my own magnets have these as my left magnet does this wobbling too.

Couple of questions if you don't mind.

1) How long ago did you get your Mirco playfield?
2) Can you post a picture of the lower 1/3 (approximately) with just normal house lights on and no playfield lighting? Looking to see if he is making the international versions where the red on the playfield blends to a purple towards the bottom, or if it is like the US versions that stays red.

Thanks.

Its missing the bent washer.

They are always missing because they lose tension and nobody knows what they are called, or they just get lost?

It just goes under the bracket and pole (on top of the magnet spool) to add pressure to the magnet so its tight against the wood.

Its a special "double saddle" washer with a 3/4" inner diameter and a 1" outer diameter.

Or 19.5mm ID x 25mm OD

Its called a "wave" washer. Its not mysterious, you can get them all over the place.

Bicycles us a lot of them.

Also called "crinkle washers".

You local hardware store might have them if you dont want to pay $12 shipping.

Some games like TAF have 2 washers on the cores to add additional pressure:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9612

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-19-5mm-Stainless-Spring-Washer/dp/B07LB1NJYT/ref=sr_1_3

I put 2 on each of my magnets.

You can bend then further if needed to get them tighter (especially if you only have one washer).

The part number (20-9612) is either in the ToM manual or the TAF manual, both games use them.

Thank you very much for the link and part number and explanation.

I got under my ToM and had a look at the left side magnet. It rotates fairly freely by hand but I wouldn't call it loose or sloppy. The right side is much firmer in place.

I took the bracket out and there was a single wave washer in place. It might have lost some of its springyness and ability to push up on the magnet though. I will look more closely at the right side magnet and also the magna save in my WCS which apparently also has these washers in it.

Regardless, I'll grab a few of them and perhaps replace the old one that is in there and add a second one to see what the effect is. Glad to have a direction to go with this in any event.

Cheers!

I purchased my Mirco playfield back in May of 2022. As you requested, attached is an image of the lower portion of the Mirco playfield. I've also attached an example of one of the art elements that I think looks better on the Mirco than the original TAG playfield (at least mine does). When I hold up my original TAG playfield with the new Mirco playfield, it's really hard to spot differences. Hope this helps!

TOM Playfield MIRCO-small (resized).png

Playfield Comparison (resized).png

I had the same issue... I solved the problem by adjusting the position of the brass wire-form ramp that carries the ball from the ramp that ends just before the spirit ring magnet to the right outlane (mine is extended as far out as is possible -- see attached picture). You can also slow the ball down by slightly bending the lever arm of the final switch on the right ramp (Right Ramp Exit 2) so that the lever extends out farther and makes more contact with the ball (thereby slowing it down).

IMG_2060 (resized).jpg

Thanks so much. The last time I checked in on his playfields, he was using the Sun Process (less desirable and more "purple colored") version. I have some emails back and forth with him and he didn't even know that there was more than 1 version of the playfield at the time. He said that he would "look into" the TAG films. Looks like he either found them or adjusted what he had. I do like the increased clarity of the colors, like in your "SPELL THEATRE" pictures too. Mine look like your original one did.

In all honesty, my playfield is in really good overall condition except for one spot. When I got my TOM back in 1998, the "A" insert in M-A-G-I-C was slightly raised and chipped. It has continued to chip over time of course. It has always bothered me, and I could send the playfield off to get fully restored, but that costs more than a Mirco replacement and takes a LOT more time between sending off and getting it back. Sure, a Mirco playfield might not be "original" but it sure would look nice. I've already fully restored my cabinet, re-brassed everything, and cleaned up any issues minus the playfield itself, so it is probably time to add this to the project list.

One last question. How well were the holes/dimples on the playfield when you went to populate the new one? Earlier versions had complaints of missing or misaligned holes.

I did find that there were a number of holes/dimples that required significant adjustment (specifically, the sling kicker arms, top kickout, and the diverter posts). I tried comparing the holes on Mirco's playfield to the original, though, and it's tough to notice a difference in terms of positioning. Therefore, I believe that some of the blame may be misdirected at Mirco, because adjustments may simply be required to properly align certain mechs, even on the original playfield. It's tough to say without conducting a very detailed comparison (down to the millimeter) as to whether the holes on the new playfields align with those on the originals.

Who / how did you do the rebrassing?

I'm going to shop out my ToM in the next few weeks. I've had issues with my vanish kicker not kicking the ball out. It will try repeatedly, and eventually it succeeds, but sometimes it will "try" 3,4,5 or more times before it gets around. The ball kicks every time, it just doesnt make its way out of the trap; kinda like it is weak. Could just be the solenoid spacers... or something else? Thoughts?

I had the same problem with my TOM for a long time. I was finally able to get it working 100 percent. See the URL below.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/theatre-of-magic-club/page/75#post-7126698

Gord

Chris Royalty (sc93cobra) from pinballplating.com

Just finished two Theatre of Magics.

Opted to utilise the Flyland Design Decals over the original Decals.

Unfourtunately the side blade art and Translite haven't arrived yet (at the mercy of a 2 month delay due to shipping issues from the US to the UK).

Both feature:

- ColorDMD
- Pinsound Plus + Speaker Package
- Tiger Saw Mod
- Mirror Mod
- Custom Powder coats on the hinges, rails, ramps, lock bar and coin door. (Prismatic powders)
- Custom Shooter Rods
- Restore Cabinets
- Mirco Playfields
- New Plastics
- New Posts
- Titan Rubber kits
- Full Comet Kits + LED OCD Boards

Decals were super thick and a pleasure to install.

You can watch my YouTube showcase video here:

PXL_20230326_223519722 (resized).jpg

PXL_20230326_120617012 (resized).jpg

PXL_20230326_223524590 (resized).jpg

PXL_20230326_223531173 (resized).jpg

PXL_20230326_223540297 (resized).jpg

PXL_20230326_223548727 (resized).jpg

PXL_20230326_223558359 (resized).jpg

PXL_20230407_210458423 (resized).jpg

PXL_20230325_162702427 (resized).jpg

Is the Rubber Ring page in the manual accurate? (I admit I haven't done my homework on this.)

Mostly, but not entirely. I just finished doing rubber rings and post sleeves on my game earlier this week. Kit from Titan was included with the game when I got it, but mostly uninstalled.

The metal posts between inlane and outlane on both sides aren't suitable for a rubber sleeve. Mine are the kinds you slip a small rubber ring over. Like a 23-6694-1. In fact, I would get a bunch of extra of these, maybe ten as this is about the size to use on the posts around the trunk as well as the mini-star posts that are on a few of the plastic pieces to deter ball hang-ups. Those ball hang-up mini-post rubbers never seem to be shown on the diagrams with the correct quantities.

I would also keep a few extra 5/16" regular star post rings onhand as I think I used more of these than what the diagram called for too.

IMG_0431 (resized).JPG

IMG_0434 (resized).JPG

IMG_0435 (resized).JPG

IMG_0437 (resized).JPG

Just replaced rubbers on my TOM, agree ai need a few more 5/16” and the small mini post ones. The manual also called for a 1-1/2” flipper rubber that I could not figure out what it was for

That 3rd flipper rubber, the smaller one, is supposed to slip over the two metal ramp support posts. Intended to deter ball hang-ups back there apparently.

IMG_0407 (resized).JPG

I did the same task earlier this year. I forgot to put the flipper rubber in the back even though I had read about it on this thread. I was missing the same rings mentioned above as well as one on the triangle of posts above the right outline. There are grooves for a short ring on the two bottom posts and my game had a ring there.

Thanks for the responses.

Got a U6 CHECKSUM error yesterday on my ToM. Intermittent though as it came on when I powered up my games, stayed there as a credit dot while I played one full game and then was gone after I shut the machine down and turned it back on a few minutes later. Only thing odd noticed during gameplay with the error active was that a couple of the colorizations on my PIN2DMD were off slightly. After that everything was back to normal.

Manual says to replace the CPU ROM if you get this error. Is it on its way out or is there something else I should be checking?

I replaced all my ROMs (CPU and all the sound ones) in November last year. CPU ROM is version 1.3X.

Try pressing down the ROM to set it in better,

Also press the ASIC (a little) while you are there.

I'm having problems with my trunk. It is over rotating clockwise. I get error switch 56, I believe that is the opto in the 9 o'clock position on the opto board. Before I start digging into it, is this a common problem with a simple solution like replacing that opto?
thx

IMG_2677 (resized).jpeg

IMG_2678 (resized).jpeg

Have any of you guys gotten your playfields restored? Just curious how your inserts came out I have been told it’s very difficult to get them perfect because they don’t have the black lines around them.

Previous owner did something strange to the 9-pin molex coming from the power supply. Wire to bottom right pin is cut, the one that goes from 1 yellow (to the power supply) and 2 orange (on the other side). This is described as the GI power input… (at least, that is what the GIocd install document calls it)

Owner bypassed this pin and wired direct to both orange wires…. Is this just to fix a burned connector? If I want to restore it, just pull all the pins and insert in a new connector? Replace the pin and receiver on the burned one? Are all the yellow wires from the power supply the same?

Appreciate any insights or tips.

IMG_9513 (resized).jpeg

IMG_9514 (resized).jpeg

IMG_9515 (resized).jpeg

IMG_9516 (resized).jpeg

IMG_9517 (resized).jpeg

Restore it to the factory wiring, remove and additional bypass or "patched in" wires or any additional wires.

Replace the burned connectors and pins.

Check the backbox GI connector and do the same or install trifucon if it hasnt been done already.

Since you put in LEDs the current draw is much lower and the connector wont burn again.

Sorry for being a smartass - but voltage should be the same, though the *current* is much lower with LEDs. Or am I mistaken?

You are correct !

Much lower current draw so much lower temperatures.

Looks awesome! Where did you get all the metal parts (door, legs, rails, etc)? I just got one recently that has mostly original stuff on it - is it difficult to restore them like this? Thanks

I've heard that installing NVram might mess up Midnight Madness on TOM. Can anyone confirm or deny this? Interestingly, I asked ChapGPT and it said that "some users have reported issues, while others haven't." Was hoping to get a more definitive answer before I decide whether to install the NVram.

Thanks

Use the Franks coin battery board instead of the NVRAM and the clock is intact:

https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/franks-famous-battery-board/

Install a Pinsound Rocket CPU board and the clock will actually keep time correctly, unlike the Williams one.

https://www.pinsound.org/products/rocket-cpu-wpc/

I think that this solves it.

The Midnight Madness mode isn't a mode timed by a real time clock, so not a mode which wil start at 00:00 midnight as some special mode.
The mode doesn't work with a real timed clock. So no problem here.

Midnight Madness
This objective requires the player to start the Midnight Madness mode by advancing the clock to 12 o'clock, with shots to the right orbit.

Advancing the Clock
Every shot to the right orbit during non-Multiball play will advance the time on the clock by 1 hour; the first shot will set it to 1 o'clock, so 12 total right orbit shots are needed to advance the clock to midnight. Reaching 6 o'clock the first time in a game will light an extra ball or score 40 million points if an extra ball has already been lit this way.

The clock can also be advanced 2 hours from a trunk skill shot, 1 hour from a captive ball skill shot, and 3 hours from a Haunted Basement random award. The Haunted Basement can also instantly advance the clock to midnight.

Mode Scoring
During Midnight Madness, the magnetic side of the trunk will rotate to face the player. In this hurry-up mode, the player can shoot the magnetic side of the trunk as many times as possible to score 2 million points multiplied by the current hour; the clock starts at midnight, and decreases by an hour every 5 seconds. Once the clock hits 4 o'clock, all shots will score 10 million points. The mode ends as soon as the clock hits 1 o'clock, and the progress towards starting the mode will reset.

Mailman delivered a little package from talented artist Brian Allen today. Alternate translite for my Theatre of Magic and I gotta say, it looks spectacular!!

13FEEA04-7643-4713-8E69-61915B1B03EC (resized).jpeg

Hello! Trunk issue here!
I guess this not the first post about trunk issue.
But i cannot find the problem i have.
My issue is that the motor dont stop in line with the optos on the optos board. Most times it stops just right after.

I have new :
Motor and gearbox

Tried:
2 different opto boards (original, pindora box)

Tried a working:
Motor controller board
2 different opto interrupter

: Rev 1.3x installed

16827768901955602397320423316771.jpg16827770198887675513131038305976.jpg

16827776541957090947892514526365 (resized).jpg

Maybe upgrade the ROM ro the new 2.0?

Long shot, I know, but I just missed a chance at an indestructible trunk that was headed to Pinfest.

Does anyone else have an extra indestructible trunk they'd be willing to part with?

Less than 200 plays on mine since I got it and already broke 2 of the POS ones that are available elsewhere. It's getting a bit frustrating.

Did you do anything to try and reinforce the crappy style ones?

I’ve seen padding used on the inside to fill up the space between the backside of the trunk plastic and the metal bracket it sits in. I found padding that worked pretty well at an arts and crafts store. It was an 8.5x11 sheet and I think it was only $2. You could get black or white. I lined the lower lip of my trunk with that stuff so there isn’t any excess room for the plastic to move or bend and it seems to help.

I was just going to ask who was that lucky bastard on here that picked this up. I DMed the guy within 6 minutes of posting on the Pinfest thread and he told me he already had a full price offer

I did not, but I should have and if I have to buy another garbage one then I’ll try something to hopefully buy more time with it.

No doubt! I’m normally on it but that went super fast. Been hunting for awhile. Might have to just develop my own solution. I have friends who are experts with this sort of thing.

Don’t have game anymore, found these if anyone needs them

SOLD!

Parts - For Sale

For sale TOM parts Archived

Used, good condition - “Have some parts from a game I don’t have anymore l, know one of the lane auto Eddy boards worked in game other looks like it’s missing a chip I can’t find. Don’t know if tr...”

2023-06-26

Eau Claire, WI

Iamthelaw

60 (OBO)

Archived after: 3 days

Viewed: 168 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Contributed to Pinside

Trunk reassembly question: my trunk had 3 washers after the snap ring. I didn’t pay attention to how many were below the trunk box (metal) and how many were above, just under the double nut.

I can put one under the box, but clearance to the play surface is pretty minimal. I can put two, and it’s a healthy gap.

Anyone here know how many washers are under the steel part of the trunk?

IMG_9619 (resized).jpeg

When I rebuilt mine, there was one washer as you mentioned under the double nut on top. Two washers were under the trunk.

Thank you! This seems right

I went to a magic show on Kissimmee FL and they display TOM and they never even turn it on, the owner has said for years not for sale because it does not work. I want it BAD, what to do? https://www.facebook.com/thegreatmagichall

Got my Brian Allen art blades installed and I think I'm done tricking out my game (pretty punny, lol).

Since I've had the game (less than a year)...

Got the alternate translite and art blades from Brian Allen.
Titan rubber rings, post sleeves and flipper rubbers.
New white, Williams logo flipper bats.
Flipper rebuilds done on both sides (coil stop, coil sleeve, plunger, spring, screws)
New flipper buttons as well as the spring plates on the inside for the optos as they were missing.
New LED bulbs in backbox, GI and playfield inserts.
New balls x5
New amber star posts, although a few still to be done as I didn't have enough on hand when I had it apart last time.
New transparent orange coin chute plastics as the originals were chipped and murky.
Coin mechanisms replaced with working units (Canadian coins).
New trap door metal flap, decal and fasteners.
New slinghsot plastics.
PIN2DMD colour display with colorization from Martin in Germany.
New leg levellers, leg bolts and leg protectors.
New backbox wingbolts.
New Lithium batteries (original boards, not yet NVRAM)
New ROMs for game and sound.
New playfield glass.
New lockdown bar with new beer seal and new lockdown bar receiver assembly along with replacement warning stickers.

Game already had upgraded, auto-calibrating Eddy sensor boards for both Hocus Pocus saves and the trunk hit.

I think that's it! I may still look at getting one of the toy mods to sit in the back right corner, like the lit up lady magician. Otherwise it's just a joy to play as is!

IMG_0799 (resized).JPG

IMG_0800 (resized).JPG

IMG_0801 (resized).JPG

IMG_0802 (resized).JPG

IMG_0803 (resized).JPG

IMG_0804 (resized).JPG

IMG_0808 (resized).JPG

I like the side blades, but not sold yet on the translite.