I just installed the v2.0 rom, upgrading from the original 1.3A. There seems to be a gap between the documentation in the manual and the material provided with the new rom. In particular the Adjustments A.2 16 to A.2 20 lack documentation. Is there a place where I can find the documentation for these (and any other gaps between the new software and the original)?

Hi - having an issue where the game is not saving high scores… batteries are brand new; other settings seem to be working. I’m running the 2.0 Roms. I hit a personal best 1.8 billion last night, entered my initials, power cycled and it was back to defaults. Suggestions how to troubleshoot/fix? Could it be a failed cmos?

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Check for battery corrosion on the CPU board and battery holder contacts..

Sounds like the battery connection is corroded and power is not getting to the circuit to save settings.

If the time resets after a power cycle it‘s definitely the batteries. You can get an NVRAM to protect your scores and settings against battery failure, but the clock won‘t run when the batteries are dead or not properly connected.

Stupid question: Did you put the batteries in with + and - properly aligned?

Who makes the best TOM cabinet decals these days. Trying to line up a couple restorations which includes a TOM.

But what if we said pretty please?

I really want one of those trunks!

Planetary Pinball do by far the best Cabinet Decals for Theatre of Magic.

Does anyone have any auto Eddy boards in the USA? Figured I'd ask here before ordering from Australia. Thanks.

FYI Brian Allen dropped the alt backglass, sideblades, cabinet art etc Yesterday on his site

Got link?

https://www.flylanddesigns.com/product-category/pinball-and-arcade-artwork/theatre-of-magic/

Would love the art blades and a translite but 79$ and 25% VAT on that for only the shipping, I pass. Has shipping gone up so much? Too bad for me.

Just picked up the limited edition print (run of 100) I'm not sure I'm going to drop the cash for the translite right now but the artwork looks cool.

Has anyone seen the acrylic version of his translites? Is it a noticeable difference? I wish he had a 3D version, that tiger would look awesome.

I have his acrylic in my CCr, but not sure exactly what your asking.

Is it better than the regular translite? He claims the colors pop better on it

I had the 3D translite for this game. It wasn’t great. My wife hated it. She said it looked blurry. I really like that alternate art. I too have the acrylic on my CCr and love it. Don’t really care for the AFMr or MMr versions otherwise I would have those too. Too much trolls on MMr and too much aliens on AFMr. The Fishtales one is amazing.

Interesting choice of words for the translite… blurry. That’s exactly how I would describe my factory original one. The lines of the artwork aren’t crisp. Are they all like this? Any reason why they chose to do it like that?

This is how mine looks as we speak. Would this translite be a factory original? It does not appear to have any 3D aspects to it.

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My 3D translite was an aftermarket piece.

I had a3d translite on my previous machine. I really liked it, i wish they still made them, I haven’t been able to find another one for sale.

Xianek makes one:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1zmcSkKigpmbqAeXVZXS752w2zrvuNAPh

https://xianek.eu/

PPM-3D-TOM-TRANSLITE is out of stock at PPS - was priced at $238 plus shipping. I just pulled the 3D translite from my ToM today and replaced it with Brian Allen's new acrylic blackglass. Willing to sell the 3D for $210 plus shipping and reuse the packaging the Brian Allen one came in. If interested, PM me your address and I'll go to the post office and find out how much shipping will cost. Sorry, but continental USA only. Payment thru PayPal.

UPDATE: No longer available. Sold (and already shipped) to caker137.

Favor: My TOM spinner is not working. Fails in switch edge test as well. But... I SWEAR I replaced the whole switch mechanism just a few months ago!!

Can someone take a quick picture of their spinner switch wiring? Maybe I screwed up the wiring or diode location/orientation.

I can't find details on orientation in the manual. A closeup picture would be really helpful!

-Rob

Where is it located on the switch matrix chart?

Row?
Column?

Are other switches out?

If you jumper the switch wires/terminals across (with a diode) does it operate in test?

Decided to install the first set of Precision flippers on my TOM today. Looks good, feels great.

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I don't see any other problems. All switches seem fine.

I will try jumpering it.

But, would appreciate a picture of how folks have it wired just to double check my wiring.

-Rob

Perhaps, you could post a picture of what you have? You're asking someone to go to their machine, whip out their phone/camera, take a picture and upload that picture as a post. It's much easier for people to see what you have than for someone to do the previous.

In the time between your first request and your second request, you could have had an answer if you posted an image with your first request.

Love the new BG

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Its really nice, but sadly "Not for Me"....

Agreed -- I bought the art print version because the artwork itself is very well done and a cool variation on the theme. That said, as for the BG, I still think the original fits the theme better... But for those that like it as the BG more power to you. Brian Allen is a very talented artist.

Fun fact: the woman’s voice in TOM is Cathy Schenkelberg, who had a stage play about her time in Scientology called “Squeeze My Cans”. The promotion images are slightly naughty as you may have guessed.

I picked up the acrylic LE version and could not be happier. Quality is top notch and lights up beautifully.

It’s so good that now I want to buy two machines, just to have both

I total get this opinion. The collector in me likes the originals I would never sell it off, but for me the artwork or at least the one in mine was so soft and blurry it made the game look cheap.
For my CCr I have what shipped, the mirrored option and Brian’s.
It is interesting n that as I rotate them non pinball people are more naturally drawn to Brian’s work maybe because it is more busy or something. I really think his alternate would help with earnings of routed machines as they draw people in to the non themed games

Does this help? I happen to have it out while I’m doing a cleanup and playfield protector.

Dave

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Thanks a bunch. SADLY... I think my switch is wired exactly the same. Later this week, do some jumpering and/or remove it to do testing.

Perhaps a bad diode? Broken wires or might just need to replace AGAIN.

-Rob

If you briefly jumper it in test, it should show up (maybe with other switches if you dont use a diode). Same as touching the wires together.

Also the switch should have power to it. If not maybe a bad wire?

Does the switch work when tested with a meter?

Maybe a bad or backwards diode?

I was looking at the rubber rings list for ToM recently and noticed it calls for there to be a post sleeve (23-6556) right between where it goes either inlane or outlane. This is on both the left and right sides of the playfield. It is item "B" on the list in the manual. My game has the small rings (item C, 23-6641 mini-post rings) on both of those and not sleeves. I don't think the metal posts in either of those two spots would accommodate a rubber sleeve the way they are anyway.

Anyone ever see a post sleeve in these two spots like the manual calls out for?

My game has two small rings no post sleeve

I just got done doing all new rings, cleaning, and a playfield protector on our game. The list in the manual has a lot of errors. The lists on the titan pinball site were pretty much copies of the manual, so I ended up doing 2 orders and having a little pile of spares…

But, it’s still nice to have it done and clean.

Dave

Thanks to you both for responding.

I had a feeling it was the manual that was wrong and not the rubber rings vs post sleeves in my actual game.

You are 100% right about those rubber ring lists and kits being inaccurate or inconsistent. Not one of the hobby's best efforts right across the board.

I am doing a playfield tear down to my World Cup Soccer and noticed the same. Actually, it's worse because they didn't even include a page in the manual for rubber rings! No list and no drawing. Whoops! So I'm partly looking online to see pictures of what other games look like and then taking inventory of what has come out of my own game. Unlike making a light bulb list the same way, trying to measure old, stretched and worn out rubber rings isn't very accurate either!!

Fkn w00t!

The funny story is about how I saw Flyland release the new art, and I bought the acrylic straightaway, intending to lightbox it and hang it on the wall.
Fast forward a week, and thinking really hard about which "one" pin to add to the collection. And this TOM shows up on the craigslist, in a dudes basement like three miles away. Easy home use for the past 15 years. Routed before that, (and it shows in the playfield wear) but it's not too bad.

BAM! Here it is in the basement. I'm calling it a lucky find. He just had somebody come over and check it out and put in an LED kit in prep for sale. Everything works, outside of a couple lamp problems so far already fixed and squeaky mechs and dirty but - what a find!

Looking forward to the (somewhat unplanned but welcomed) journey. Cheers!

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Its an amazing game, congrats!

Ok this is just gorgeous.

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Man, that new backglass is epic. Will you keep the rest as is, or buy the art for the sides of the machine as well?

Has anyone experienced having the ball get stuck at the start of the wire ramp, just behind the right ball gate up at the top right side? You have to wait for the ball search to lift the gate and the shake the heck out of the game to get it to roll into the lanes. If the tilt bob was properly set up it would be fatal. Thanks for any input.

Dave

Yes, mine was doing this. Not all the time, but when it tried to go up that wire form without enough speed and then settled in that exact spot just as the flap came down and trapped it, like you, you just couldn't seem to shake it loose.

I had a sheet of Mylar and cut a small one to basically cover that recess where the wireform ends dip under the playfield surface. I had to try a couple different positions to get it to work every time, but it finally solved the issue.

Hadn't yet considered the side art but maybe someday... I just picked it up so a deep playfield cleaning is first on the list.

Thanks! I was thinking along the same lines, so I’m going to give that a try.