(Topic ID: 43909)

Theatre of Magic Club

By Nilroc

10 years ago


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There are 4,285 posts in this topic. You are on page 76 of 86.
#3751 1 year ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

I really like the 2.0 version as it has the support for the Tiger Saw mod integrated into the code. The URL below may prove useful if you haven't seen it previously. Also, if you read several of the posts immediately before and after the post from the URL below there is a lot of helpful information regarding the TOM 2.0 ROM update.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-williams-and-bally-software-upgrades/page/12#post-6552134
Gord

what exactly does 2.0 bring to the table with the tiger mod? I have it on mine working and want to make sure I've enabled it in the code.

#3752 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

what exactly does 2.0 bring to the table with the tiger mod? I have it on mine working and want to make sure I've enabled it in the code.

There is nothing for you to enable in the game's settings. If you have the Tiger saw mod and it is installed correctly you are good to go. Read the release notes from the URL below and search for the text of 'Tiger' within the release notes to find all the pertinent passages regarding the Tiger Saw mod.

https://dotsandloopspinball.com/rn/Theatre%20Of%20Magic%20rev%2020%20Release%20note.txt

Gord

#3753 1 year ago
Quoted from 2pupPinz:

Double check the subway where plastic portion meets the metal portion (trap door side). Plastic should be inside metal portion so the ball doesn’t get hung up on the edge/transition. If all looks good then a slight switch adjustment may be needed.

Thanks, i’ll check it out.

#3754 1 year ago

Ok it looks like the 3rd ball is getting stuck on the last switch on the left side. I will try to bend it a bit.

Next, the light on the trunk doesn’t work. I’m pretty sure this unplugged wire is the reason. But I cant find a matching plug for it. Any ideas where it goes?

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#3755 1 year ago

Here’s some pix of mine if it helps

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#3756 1 year ago
Quoted from 2pupPinz:

Here’s some pix of mine if it helps[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Top left corner of your first picture there is a connector not plugged into anything. A square one that is 2x2 inside (or maybe it’s 2x3). I just noticed on my own game the other day this isn’t plugged in either. What’s the story with that connector? What was it supposed to be used for?

#3757 1 year ago

Lol! Never noticed that.

No idea what it could be for. I doubt this, but could be they used some generic harness for portions when assembling. Or something that got scratched from design due to cost/reliability. Game works as it should so mystery to me.

#3758 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Top left corner of your first picture there is a connector not plugged into anything. A square one that is 2x2 inside (or maybe it’s 2x3). I just noticed on my own game the other day this isn’t plugged in either. What’s the story with that connector? What was it supposed to be used for?

This is the third ToM I own. They have all had that square plug unplugged.

#3759 1 year ago

Do you think that unused plug might have been intended for the unrealized ball saver post that on prototype games popped up between the flippers after hitting the Poof! target? Just a guess. I’m real new to owning my ToM . Absolutely love the game and playing it constantly since getting it. Just finished LEDing it actually.

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#3760 1 year ago
#3761 1 year ago

I’m still dealing with the basement not kicking out balls in multiball. I bent the wire on the last switch and it didn’t make a difference. I have to shake the machine super hard side to side in order for the ball to feed into the basement mechanism. If the balls are magnetized would they stick to the switches? I’ll try swapping them out just in case.

#3762 1 year ago
Quoted from Goalie:

I’m still dealing with the basement not kicking out balls in multiball. I bent the wire on the last switch and it didn’t make a difference. I have to shake the machine super hard side to side in order for the ball to feed into the basement mechanism. If the balls are magnetized would they stick to the switches? I’ll try swapping them out just in case.

did you actually do a switch test?

Go to switch test and drop three balls one at a time into the trunk and see if all three subway switches register

#3763 1 year ago

Yeah all the switches register. The balls get physically stuck. I’m guessing the first ball feeds fine because it has momentum. Once all three stack up, the 3rd ball gets stuck on switch 3 because it’s trying to move from a stop or slow speed. Which is why I’m wondering if the balls being magnetized is making them stick together or to the switch or something else.

#3764 1 year ago
Quoted from Goalie:

Yeah all the switches register. The balls get physically stuck. I’m guessing the first ball feeds fine because it has momentum. Once all three stack up, the 3rd ball gets stuck on switch 3 because it’s trying to move from a stop or slow speed. Which is why I’m wondering if the balls being magnetized is making them stick together or to the switch or something else.

Pull it all apart, you will see where its hanging up.

Its obviously a mechanical issue.

Might need a new end on the popper or it needs adjustment, or its assembled wrong?

Needs more playfield pitch?

#3765 1 year ago

I tried increasing pitch today, didn’t help. Maybe i’ll try adding more, it’ll be past 7 degrees at that point.

#3766 1 year ago

The 3 switches in there a finicky to get the correct bend to both register and allow the ball to pass. It’s definitely a mechanical issue. Had to adjust mine last week and took the assembly apart to adjust but it took a few tries to get it right. I left my phone in the game to record where it was getting hung up. For mine, once the third ball was locked, the last switch (first one encountered in basement trough area from trunk subway).

While there I changed out the coil sleeves for the ball assist mech and basement coils since partial disassembly was needed to get the switches correct.

#3767 1 year ago

This machine is turning out to need more work than advertised.

Trunk light- Thanks for the pics 2pupPinz it helped me trace the wires, found the plug that matched bundled inside the nest of wires. Plugged it in… light still doesn’t work.

Bent the wires on the switches in the basement ball lock trough. It’s hard to move the ball through the switches with my fingers. The balls get stuck between the first and second switch. I wonder if the right switches are installed. Are they supposed to be long flat blade switches, like the ones used on spinners? Right now it has big hook switches like the rollover kind.

While testing the trough, the trunk stopped registering hits. Then I ran a ball over the left outlane sensor and the trunk registered a hit. It does have auto eddy boards installed. I can’t get it to happen every time. Anyone dealt with this?

The balls were magnetized, so I swapped them out.

#3768 1 year ago

Sounds like the ones there are the correct type of switches (similar to rollover switches, not the flat spinner ones). They should offer some resistance but not too much (that’s the fine line I had to deal with on mine and did take about 5 tries to get it right). Keep adjusting the bend in the thinner wire area but mind how the lower portion of the switch hits the next switch in the line as they come close together.

Regarding the trunk lamp: simple things first, make sure bulb is good and connection is made inside the socket with the bulb’s blade wires. If lamp and socket look good then problem is with connection or continuity further upstream.

Regarding the auto eddy trunk and outlanes: that’s odd, never had that but try reseating the connections to the boards as they sometimes are loose and if it still happens I assume something is connected incorrectly under the playfield.

It was a bit frustrating having to keep tweeking the switches, but you’ll get it and be happy when you do

#3769 1 year ago

Trunk problem. When the game is shut off for the day etc when starting a game does not work (turning). Once I get the test going on the trunk then never an issue as will work until you shut it off and within a couple of hours turn the game on and at least will still work and turn. But then again the next day it is not working. I have played so much in readjusting the set screw to be right on target with the cut in the metal matching it to the sensor. I have replaced the original eddy with the self adjusting ones also. Possible one of the four sensors are not good. I have cleaned them also. When I am in test mode with the trunk it spins and goes thru without any issues. Any help please? Thank you once again.

#3770 1 year ago

UPDATE: I am traveling for work and couldn't check myself, but wanted to get the order in (bored at the hotel, so I am spending money). I just found some pictures, made some counts and looked up the type, and just ordered 30 for now in Sunlight. I think that the game will look really good when I get rid of the pink bulbs.

Does anyone know how many GI bulbs are in a TOM?

I bought a LED "kit" years ago, and I am tired of the light "pink" LED GI lights that came in the kit and want to go white.

Any ideas of how many are needed, the type of bulb (so that I get the bulb right) or even a recommendation on exact bulbs to buy would be great.

Thanks all!

#3771 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Does anyone know how many GI bulbs are in a TOM?
I bought a LED "kit" years ago, and I am tired of the light "pink" LED GI lights that came in the kit and want to go white.
Any ideas of how many are needed, the type of bulb (so that I get the bulb right) or even a recommendation on exact bulbs to buy would be great.
Thanks all!

Honestly? Buy a bunch of warm white LEDs (and get GIOCD and LEDOCD as well), and ditch all the colored LEDs except for a few exposed places. You'll be amazed at how good it looks and how your eyes stop bleeding!

You can find a list of all the lamps in the manual on page 2-41. You can download a free copy here: https://www.ipdb.org/files/2845/Bally_1995_Theatre_of_Magic_Manual.pdf

Good luck!

#3772 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

UPDATE: I am traveling for work and couldn't check myself, but wanted to get the order in (bored at the hotel, so I am spending money). I just found some pictures, made some counts and looked up the type, and just ordered 30 for now in Sunlight. I think that the game will look really good when I get rid of the pink bulbs.
Does anyone know how many GI bulbs are in a TOM?
I bought a LED "kit" years ago, and I am tired of the light "pink" LED GI lights that came in the kit and want to go white.
Any ideas of how many are needed, the type of bulb (so that I get the bulb right) or even a recommendation on exact bulbs to buy would be great.
Thanks all!

I just did this recently. Got my ToM a few weeks ago and LED'ed the entire thing.

There are 36 wedge base bulbs needed for the backbox (type 555).
Also four wedge base 906 flashers in the backbox.

Playfield has 56 wedge base 555 bulbs for the inserts.
Playfield also has 8 round base 44 bulbs for inserts.

Playfield GI is 36 round base 44 bulbs.

Inside the magic trunk is one wedge base 555 bulb.
And the coin doors are two wedge base 555 bulbs.
Start button and extra ball button have bulbs of course if you're looking to be REALLY thorough lol!

Ok, having said all of that, I use only frosted dome cool white bulbs for both the wedge base 555's and the round base 44's. I believe they are 2-SMD. I get mine from a place I like in Saskatchewan, but others have pretty much the same bulbs.

A used to colour match all my game inserts, but I've been trying just white recently. A couple exceptions I did on ToM was to do the top rollover insert bulbs in green. It comes out kinda spooky and cool under the faces. I think that was actually meant to be like that as I understand the games originally came with those rubber domes over those two bulbs and they were the green rubber dome ones.

Oh, the magic trunk is a green bulb, should have mentioned that.

I also did not do anything yet with the GI bulbs along the backboard. They are the ones behind the "red curtains". Mine were already LED and they looked fine as is so I've left them for now. I think there are less than 6 and mine might be red and the top of the bulb is flat. There might be a spacial constraint in those spots, I'm not 100% sure.

I also didn't touch my flashers on the playfield yet and can't really say how that's supposed to be. There are a bunch under the plastic tinted domes and then I also have a couple odd looking and shaped LED's that seem to be on all the time so I'm thinking they are part of the GI but are bigger bases. Maybe someone else can chime in about those?

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#3773 1 year ago
Quoted from 2pupPinz:

Sounds like the ones there are the correct type of switches (similar to rollover switches, not the flat spinner ones). They should offer some resistance but not too much (that’s the fine line I had to deal with on mine and did take about 5 tries to get it right). Keep adjusting the bend in the thinner wire area but mind how the lower portion of the switch hits the next switch in the line as they come close together.
Regarding the trunk lamp: simple things first, make sure bulb is good and connection is made inside the socket with the bulb’s blade wires. If lamp and socket look good then problem is with connection or continuity further upstream.
Regarding the auto eddy trunk and outlanes: that’s odd, never had that but try reseating the connections to the boards as they sometimes are loose and if it still happens I assume something is connected incorrectly under the playfield.
It was a bit frustrating having to keep tweeking the switches, but you’ll get it and be happy when you do

Ok closing the loop on this one. here are the things that resolved the problems:

Ball getting stuck in the subway trough. Bending the wire on the first switch to be just a little flatter, fixed it. Not a big bend just slightly.

The trunk registering hits when the magna saves turned on- The connector on the harness to the trunk eddy board was bad. It detected hits from the vibration. New plastic connector on the wires fixed it

Thanks for the help.

#3774 1 year ago

Awesome! That’s good news for sure!

Now …”the Theatre awaits”!

#3775 1 year ago

UPDATE: I am going to try the things listed in this post... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/theatre-of-magic-no-popper-or-slingshot-working-
For some reason I wasn't getting good search results and then AFTER I made this post, I found this one.

ORIGINAL POST:
I'm having some issues with my TOM tonight. I was going to play a few games before starting to swap out my pink and purple GI LEDs for Comet Sunlights, and things didn't go so well...

We moved fairly recently and my TOM travelled about 1300 miles. I unboxed it and set it up, but never had time to try it out until tonight.

Anyway, a lot of things work, but many key things don't.

Here is what doesn't work:
Slingshots
Poppers
The "Advance Bonus" roll-overs at the top

Here is what does work:
Flippers
All targets
All other roll-overs and switches
Spirit Ring
Magnet on the trunk
Vanish
Spinner
Trunk post
Trap door
Hocus Pocus

I have a few mods that all work too. The motorized tiger saw, Pinduino, colorDMD all work.

I grabbed my volt meter and started checking fuses, and did find one bad one. It was actually visibly bad too. In the backbox, the upper left board (Fliptronic I believe), there is a 2x2 grouping of fuses and it was the lower left, if that matters. Replaced it with the same fuse type and still nothing.

Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting? I've had my TOM since 1998, and have had very few problems with the machine, but this half way across the county move seems to have been a little bit of a rough journey.

Thanks.

#3776 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

UPDATE: I am going to try the things listed in this post... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/theatre-of-magic-no-popper-or-slingshot-working-
For some reason I wasn't getting good search results and then AFTER I made this post, I found this one.
ORIGINAL POST:
I'm having some issues with my TOM tonight. I was going to play a few games before starting to swap out my pink and purple GI LEDs for Comet Sunlights, and things didn't go so well...
We moved fairly recently and my TOM travelled about 1300 miles. I unboxed it and set it up, but never had time to try it out until tonight.
Anyway, a lot of things work, but many key things don't.
Here is what doesn't work:
Slingshots
Poppers
The "Advance Bonus" roll-overs at the top
Here is what does work:
Flippers
All targets
All other roll-overs and switches
Spirit Ring
Magnet on the trunk
Vanish
Spinner
Trunk post
Trap door
Hocus Pocus
I have a few mods that all work too. The motorized tiger saw, Pinduino, colorDMD all work.
I grabbed my volt meter and started checking fuses, and did find one bad one. It was actually visibly bad too. In the backbox, the upper left board (Fliptronic I believe), there is a 2x2 grouping of fuses and it was the lower left, if that matters. Replaced it with the same fuse type and still nothing.
Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting? I've had my TOM since 1998, and have had very few problems with the machine, but this half way across the county move seems to have been a little bit of a rough journey.
Thanks.

You realize all of those items are in the same switch column, right?

#3777 1 year ago
Quoted from EStroh:

You realize all of those items are in the same switch column, right?

Sorry, you are talking to a guy that has only ever owned 2 pinball machines in my life, and while I have had my TOM since 1998, it has been pretty error/maintenance free.

So excuse my ignorance were, but what does that mean? Thanks.

#3778 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Sorry, you are talking to a guy that has only ever owned 2 pinball machines in my life, and while I have had my TOM since 1998, it has been pretty error/maintenance free.
So excuse my ignorance were, but what does that mean? Thanks.

While your machine has some switches with dedicated signal lines, most of them are handled via a "matrix", where the electronics selectively scans a group of switches at a time. This allows, for example, handling as many as 64 switches with just 16 wires and digital inputs.

EStroh is pointing out that your non-working switches are all in the same column of that matrix, which suggests (strongly suggests) that the fault lies in the one line coming from the circuit board that provides the signal ("strobes") that column. Maybe just a loose connection somewhere. Though it could be a failed component on the circuit board. The point is, knowing the fault is in a single column allows you to narrow your search for the problem significantly.

#3779 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

While your machine has some switches with dedicated signal lines, most of them are handled via a "matrix", where the electronics selectively scans a group of switches at a time. This allows, for example, handling as many as 64 switches with just 16 wires and digital inputs.
EStroh is pointing out that your non-working switches are all in the same column of that matrix, which suggests (strongly suggests) that the fault lies in the one line coming from the circuit board that provides the signal ("strobes") that column. Maybe just a loose connection somewhere. Though it could be a failed component on the circuit board. The point is, knowing the fault is in a single column allows you to narrow your search for the problem significantly.

Ah. Makes sense.

So I traced out the Green-Blue wire from J207 pin 6 and I looked at all solder connections and they looked good.

There are no burn marks on any of the plugs for the CPU Security Board (that has the J207 socket on it).

I tested continuity with my volt meter from the blue-green pin 6 wire from the J207 plug in the backbox to all of the places it connected (both slings, the 3 jets, and the lane 1 and 2 switches) and they all came back good.

I looked at the other wires that weren't green-blue for each of the connected items, and they all looked good too.

I went into the test menu and did solenoid tests for the slings and 3 jets/poppers and they all worked in the test menu.

Still no change overall.

The switches aren't registering being hit for any of them whether physically responsive or in the switch test...

#3780 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

The switches aren't registering being hit for any of them whether physically responsive or in the switch test...

Exclude the problem being on the CPU board by:

  • Disconnect J207 and J209.
  • Enter diagnostic switch edges (T.1).
  • Short (jump) J207-6 to any pin on J209.

If all the switches register correctly in switch edge test then you still have a problem in the playfield wiring. If no switch registers then the problem is on the CPU board. If you are not comfortable with board diagnosis then send the board out for repair. There are several reputable repair technicians that others will be only too happy to recommend.

#3781 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Ah. Makes sense.
So I traced out the Green-Blue wire from J207 pin 6 and I looked at all solder connections and they looked good.
There are no burn marks on any of the plugs for the CPU Security Board (that has the J207 socket on it).
I tested continuity with my volt meter from the blue-green pin 6 wire from the J207 plug in the backbox to all of the places it connected (both slings, the 3 jets, and the lane 1 and 2 switches) and they all came back good.
I looked at the other wires that weren't green-blue for each of the connected items, and they all looked good too.
I went into the test menu and did solenoid tests for the slings and 3 jets/poppers and they all worked in the test menu.
Still no change overall.
The switches aren't registering being hit for any of them...

Solenoids are unrelated to the switches. The switches can trigger solenoids via the CPU, but the power goes back to the solenoid through a different circuit. So the solenoid tests don't really help here.

Failed connectors are common, so the next step would be to plug the J207 connector back in, and then test continuity between the circuit board itself and the wire coming from pin 6.

If you have continuity there, then it sounds like a problem with the board. If you have a logic analyzer or oscilloscope, you can turn on the machine and then look for a pulse signal on the J207-6 pin. Presumably there will be no signal at the pin itself, but it's good to verify that. Then work your way back through the circuit board checking to see if you can find where the signal does show up. Once you find that spot, the component just after that spot is probably the one that's failed.

Do you have the schematic for the board? That will be important for tracing the circuit. You won't be able to see all the traces; some will be on the reverse side of the board, and others will be obscured by components mounted on the board.

I did a search online for the Theatre of Magic schematics; you want the one for the WPC-S A-17651 board part. I found schematics for similar boards (e.g. https://www.ipdb.org/files/3685/Bally_1995_WHO_dunnit_English_Manual_WPC_Schematic_Manual_January_1995_Rev_Level_3_OCR_searchable.pdf), which has the same board number, so probably that one is good enough. You can see that the column lines are pretty simple; they just run though a few ICs. It looks like the default state for those lines would be +12V, with pressing a switch pulling the line down to 0V. But I admit, I might be misreading; maybe a qualified expert could chime in.

Past the first IC (ULN2803), it looks like the signal is inverted, so you'd be looking for 0V default value with (probably) +5V when the line is active. In any case, the main question will be whether you see the voltage on the line vary at all and if so by how much. The signal going to pin 6 should look the same as the other lines, so you can use those as a comparison. So maybe it's not that important to know what the exact voltages should look like; you have a good reference just by looking at the other lines.

Note that one way these things fail is that a solder joint simply breaks. So even without the machine running, one thing you could do is pull the board and test continuity between the components that provide the signal to J207-6. That's something you can do with a simple continuity tester, even if you don't have a logic probe or oscilloscope.

#3782 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

Failed connectors are common, so the next step would be to plug the J207 connector back in, and then test continuity between the circuit board itself and the wire coming from pin 6.

Note that one way these things fail is that a solder joint simply breaks. So even without the machine running, one thing you could do is pull the board and test continuity between the components that provide the signal to J207-6. That's something you can do with a simple continuity tester, even if you don't have a logic probe or oscilloscope.

All great advice. And since the issue seemed to present itself after a move, my money is on a continuity problem, not a failed electrical component. I'd check the continuity between the board and pin 6 on the IDC connector first as pete_d suggested.

#3783 1 year ago

My machine came with a pretty terrible tiger blade, I think they tried wrapping it with gold colored vinyl, and it did not work. Does anyone have specs or a link to the real metal saw blade replacement?

#3784 1 year ago
Quoted from Goalie:

My machine came with a pretty terrible tiger blade, I think they tried wrapping it with gold colored vinyl, and it did not work. Does anyone have specs or a link to the real metal saw blade replacement?

My ToM had a terrible tiger blade too, but I bought the plastic version (https://www.bestofpinball.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=&products_id=12626) that looks like the original, 'cause I'm not sure I want a real metal cutting tool in an expensive wooden cabinet...

#3785 1 year ago

There seem to be two different part numbers for the magnets used on the game. 20-10179 and 20-10197. Are they interchangeable? Or different in some way, strength or physical size that makes them only work properly in certain spots (magic trunk, spirit ring diverter and the two hocus pocus outlanes)?

#3786 1 year ago
Quoted from Frogroar:

My ToM had a terrible tiger blade too, but I bought the plastic version (https://www.bestofpinball.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=&products_id=12626) that looks like the original, 'cause I'm not sure I want a real metal cutting tool in an expensive wooden cabinet...

Thanks, I would rather have a real one instead of the plastic. It's not like it's attached to a circular saw with enough torque to start cutting the cabinet into scrap.

#3787 1 year ago
Quoted from Goalie:

Thanks, I would rather have a real one instead of the plastic. It's not like it's attached to a circular saw with enough torque to start cutting the cabinet into scrap.

Haha, no, you're right, but it stressed me out anyway.
The real ones I saw in the past are just blades bought in a hardware store...

#3788 1 year ago
Quoted from Frogroar:

Haha, no, you're right, but it stressed me out anyway.
The real ones I saw in the past are just blades bought in a hardware store...

Yeah I guess I'm just looking for size and arbor, or if there's a particular brand and model that fits best or doesn't have a lot of branding text on it.

#3789 1 year ago

Found this lil bugger under my ToM, that sits next to a Pinbot. Not sure how it would have gotten under the machine, or if it even belongs to ToM or Pinbot. Doesn't look familiar. Any ideas?

PXL_20221026_022134329 (resized).jpgPXL_20221026_022134329 (resized).jpg
#3790 1 year ago
Quoted from dq13:

Found this lil bugger under my ToM, that sits next to a Pinbot. Not sure how it would have gotten under the machine, or if it even belongs to ToM or Pinbot. Doesn't look familiar. Any ideas?
[quoted image]

Looks like a solenoid return spring.

How it got under the TOM cabinet, I have no idea. Depending on how often you clean, it might have shown up just today, or a year ago.

Whether it's important or not, I also don't know. Depends on where it actually came from. Were you doing any flipper rebuilding lately, or other work on solenoids, where it might've come off and you forgot to put it back on?

#3791 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

Looks like a solenoid return spring.
How it got under the TOM cabinet, I have no idea. Depending on how often you clean, it might have shown up just today, or a year ago.
Whether it's important or not, I also don't know. Depends on where it actually came from. Were you doing any flipper rebuilding lately, or other work on solenoids, where it might've come off and you forgot to put it back on?

No rebuilds or disassemblings lately. It's a shorter guy for solenoids, too, which makes it a bit more vexing. Time to just take a look underneath

#3792 1 year ago
Quoted from dq13:

Found this lil bugger under my ToM. Any ideas?

Sorry. Nothing springs to mind.

#3793 1 year ago
Quoted from dq13:

Found this lil bugger under my ToM, that sits next to a Pinbot. Not sure how it would have gotten under the machine, or if it even belongs to ToM or Pinbot. Doesn't look familiar. Any ideas?
[quoted image]

Looks like a spring from a leaf switch button…like your flipper buttons

#3794 1 year ago
Quoted from littlecammi:

Sorry. Nothing springs to mind.

#3795 1 year ago
Quoted from mikehoss1414:

Looks like a spring from a leaf switch button…like your flipper buttons

Ah, good thought.
Everything else checks out

#3796 1 year ago
Quoted from dq13:

Found this lil bugger under my ToM, that sits next to a Pinbot. Not sure how it would have gotten under the machine, or if it even belongs to ToM or Pinbot. Doesn't look familiar. Any ideas?

Could it be a "coin reject" spring? They are short, conical springs.

#3797 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Could it be a "coin reject" spring? They are short, conical springs.

Yep, looks like a coin rejector spring.

Cabinet button springs are way different.

Conical return springs are longer.

#3798 1 year ago

Hey TOM owners, I have a problem.

Okay, I'm playing the pin and I lock the 2nd ball. Afterwards the game goes quiet and the color display shows the animation of the magicians throwing the electrical bolt on stage starting the multiball mode. The trunk also does not rotate to the magnet in order to shoot for the 3rd lock, but it operates fine during the rest of the game. Again, no sound during all of this. The pin then goes to multiball mode with no sound but it picks up fine after the last drain.

I checked the batteries thinking maybe some type of corrosion did this, but they're fine.

Any ideas?

#3799 1 year ago
Quoted from Indypin:

Hey TOM owners, I have a problem.
Okay, I'm playing the pin and I lock the 2nd ball. Afterwards the game goes quiet and the color display shows the animation of the magicians throwing the electrical bolt on stage starting the multiball mode. The trunk also does not rotate to the magnet in order to shoot for the 3rd lock, but it operates fine during the rest of the game. Again, no sound during all of this. The pin then goes to multiball mode with no sound but it picks up fine after the last drain.
I checked the batteries thinking maybe some type of corrosion did this, but they're fine.
Any ideas?

What does it do in test mode, does it turn all the way? Go in switch test and see if the trunk registers the hit when it’s turned

#3800 1 year ago

Check trough switch 1 and the switch above the vuk coil under trap door

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