(Topic ID: 43909)

Theatre of Magic Club

By Nilroc

11 years ago


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There are 4,295 posts in this topic. You are on page 72 of 86.
#3551 2 years ago

Had switch 87 break off, new one on the way. It’s on the right return wire form (after hitting left orbit / THEATRE shot). Game still plays fine, just wondering what this switch triggers or how it affects gameplay (THEATRE mode still works).

#3552 2 years ago

Looks like I’m not the only one with this random connector that doesn’t have a match anywhere? Is this where the tiger motor would have attached? Also I’m not quite sure if my top rollover lanes inserts have the ability to change based on flipper input. Meaning when I hit the right flipper shouldn’t the right mask be lit and vice versus on the left? Thanks for any help here. Just sorted the magnet issues and the eddy boards so the magic outlane saves work spectacularly!

6AEE483B-E535-4BA8-8DD4-20684538152A (resized).png6AEE483B-E535-4BA8-8DD4-20684538152A (resized).pngCB411A1E-47A4-478B-BA60-0E57D7898A9C (resized).jpegCB411A1E-47A4-478B-BA60-0E57D7898A9C (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#3553 1 year ago
Quoted from UltraPeepi:

I am install new plastics with protectors. There are two plastics that are soo small, and I've never seen them NOT broken on a machine (or I just never noticed). They are the plastic between the inlane and outlane. My protector set did not come with a protector for these two delicate pieces.
Does anybody have protectors for these? If there is nothing available, I will make one and post here what I come up with.
FYI, the new plastic looks shabby because it still has the peel off film.
[quoted image]

Here is what I came up with.

I got a piece of scrap polycarbonate from Tap Plastics ($1). I made a template out of a bit of oak I had laying around. I sized it more like the orange bottom plastic instead of the one it is protecting. It's barely visible once installed, and not noticeable unless you know it's there. If you look closely on the pic of it installed, you can see a bit of saw dust I hadn't cleaned yet. Let's see how long it protects the fragile plastic. I suppose I could flame polish the edges.

IMG_5111 (resized).jpgIMG_5111 (resized).jpgIMG_5113 (resized).jpgIMG_5113 (resized).jpgIMG_5114 (resized).jpgIMG_5114 (resized).jpgIMG_5115 (resized).jpgIMG_5115 (resized).jpgIMG_5121 (resized).jpgIMG_5121 (resized).jpg
#3554 1 year ago

If anyone is interested in the Sling and Return lane protectors for ToM or any other game, just shoot me a PM. I have made some for ToM in Purple Acrylic like the above post. I just am not a fan of the Purple so I never listed them. The game has good color as it is so I think clear will be better and give it that slight sparkle. I have not shopped out my ToM in 20 years so its just has regular incandescent bulbs in it. The purple may "pop" with LED's. Let me know if anyone is interested and I will cut a set of clear and get them posted....most likely after Pinbrew this weekend

purple01 (resized).jpgpurple01 (resized).jpgpurple02 (resized).jpgpurple02 (resized).jpgpurple03 (resized).jpgpurple03 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#3555 1 year ago

Joined the club about a week ago! A collector had it in his home the last 20 years. Needs a cleaning but the pf is beautiful. Just started the upgrade to LEDS on the inserts, what bulbs to people use under the pf right behind the captive ball? (Not the flasher, the wedge)

20220404_130731 (resized).jpg20220404_130731 (resized).jpg20220404_140627 (resized).jpg20220404_140627 (resized).jpg20220407_093950 (resized).jpg20220407_093950 (resized).jpg20220415_071126 (resized).jpg20220415_071126 (resized).jpg
#3556 1 year ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Joined the club about a week ago! A collector had it in his home the last 20 years. Needs a cleaning but the pf is beautiful. Just started the upgrade to LEDS on the inserts, what bulbs to people use under the pf right behind the captive ball? (Not the flasher, the wedge)
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

A collector that didn't' know the shooter knob was incorrect for the game? I've contemplated LED's over the years, but last time I did it, it would have been another 400 plus in boards to get them to work correctly, you don't really want to lose the dimming features by using LED's.

#3557 1 year ago
Quoted from Robl45:

A collector that didn't' know the shooter knob was incorrect for the game? I've contemplated LED's over the years, but last time I did it, it would have been another 400 plus in boards to get them to work correctly, you don't really want to lose the dimming features by using LED's.

Good point as to shooter rod--definitely not correct but an easy fix... As to LEDs I haven't changed my incandescent bulbs over because of this as well...

#3558 1 year ago

LEDs are such a personal thing.
IMHO, so many pins have LEDs that are just not my thing.

BUT... I have gotten on the LED train and have been doing it. TAF, TOM, JD. I just did Whitewater. Probably do IJ this weekend.

So here's my 2 cents. And I'm not offended if you or others completely disagree.

1. Use Comet Sunlight for all Matrix.
2. Don't mess around with color matching
3. Absolutely must use LEDOCD
4. Don't mess with LEDs in the GI, keep them Incondensant

And there you go.

With a ColorDMD and LEDs done this way, I feel my TOM is as good as or better than any recent pin.

#3559 1 year ago

Does anyone know where they source just the hat with card on this mod? I don't want the motor or lighting. Same with the birds and bunny one they sold in the past.

https://www.pinballdecals.com/TOM_MagicHatPage.html

https://www.pinballdecals.com/TOMModPage.html

Just joined the club btw. Never owned one. Really appreciate all this game has to offer. What a package. I'm not very good so the less complex code doesn't bother me at all.

#3560 1 year ago

I’d really appreciate it if someone could share a pic of this area on TOM. My top rollover lanes light up together only. In test the left lights both and the right doesn’t lite at all. I think it has to do with this lose wire with similar colors being real close.

F81B9B30-D7E4-4250-A0F0-E05731D8DC01 (resized).jpegF81B9B30-D7E4-4250-A0F0-E05731D8DC01 (resized).jpeg
#3561 1 year ago
Quoted from Jkush18:

I’d really appreciate it if someone could share a pic of this area on TOM. My top rollover lanes light up together only. In test the left lights both and the right doesn’t lite at all. I think it has to do with this lose wire with similar colors being real close.
[quoted image]

that loose wire goes the the lamp that its near in the picture.

its supposed to be soldered to the lug that has the same color wire on it.

in the end you will have 2 wires of the same color on that lug of the lamp, just like the lamp next to it.

its daisy chained. One wire goes in electrically, and the other wire goes out electrically, and continues the circuit.

#3562 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

that loose wire goes the the lamp that its near in the picture.
its supposed to be soldered to the lug that has the same color wire on it.
in the end you will have 2 wires of the same color on that lug of the lamp, just like the lamp next to it.
its daisy chained. One wire goes in electrically, and the other wire goes out electrically, and continues the circuit.

Thanks for the help there. I was stumped because the previous owner wired them together. Once I cut that connection and ran the lose wire to the right light it all works great now. Thanks for the advise.

#3563 1 year ago
Quoted from Jkush18:

Thanks for the help there. I was stumped because the previous owner wired them together. Once I cut that connection and ran the lose wire to the right light it all works great now. Thanks for the advise.

You're welcome!

#3564 1 year ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Had switch 87 break off, new one on the way. It’s on the right return wire form (after hitting left orbit / THEATRE shot). Game still plays fine, just wondering what this switch triggers or how it affects gameplay (THEATRE mode still works).

Same thing happened to mine! Just realized the arm is not on the switch anymore yet the switch works fine even manually pushed. Anyone know what that controls/provides points for bc the game seems to work fine without it.

#3565 1 year ago

Is there anyway to loosen up a sticky microswitch? It's the one at the rear of the captive ball lane. Can I get any cheaper than trying to repair a sticky microswitch?

#3566 1 year ago
Quoted from dq13:

Is there anyway to loosen up a sticky microswitch? It's the one at the rear of the captive ball lane. Can I get any cheaper than trying to repair a sticky microswitch?

I'm cheap and I would just buy a new one.

#3567 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Same thing happened to mine! Just realized the arm is not on the switch anymore yet the switch works fine even manually pushed. Anyone know what that controls/provides points for bc the game seems to work fine without it.

Just adding to my own question, when I manually pressed in switch 87 (right wire form return) it just made a magic sound but no points or gameplay related. Curious what this switch actually does gameplay wise? I’m going to replace Bc I need it to be original but it’s interesting how it didn’t change anything. Maybe during one of the modes….

#3568 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Just adding to my own question, when I manually pressed in switch 87 (right wire form return) it just made a magic sound but no points or gameplay related. Curious what this switch actually does gameplay wise? I’m going to replace Bc I need it to be original but it’s interesting how it didn’t change anything. Maybe during one of the modes….

I don’t know for sure but I think it probably does something when it happens in sequence with the theater left orbit shot switches (as you can make this theatre shot and not hit it strong enough dropping it through the lanes into the pops). Maybe related to a combo shot (if you keep hitting the left orbit over and over)

1 week later
#3569 1 year ago

Does anyone make a complete set of plastic protectors in neon colors?

#3570 1 year ago
Quoted from izzy:

Does anyone make a complete set of plastic protectors in neon colors?

I don't know how many pieces are in this Color Guard TOM set, but you can PM 'Joe' who is the owner of Color Guard Protectors via the following URL and ask him. I installed a set of his Wonka Color Guard protectors for my Wonka LE and they fit nicely and look great.

https://tinyurl.com/yarzq58w

Gord

#3571 1 year ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

I don't know how many pieces are in this Color Guard TOM set, but you can PM 'Joe' who is the owner of Color Guard Protectors via the following URL and ask him. I installed a set of his Wonka Color Guard protectors for my Wonka LE and they fit nicely and look great.
https://tinyurl.com/yarzq58w
Gord

Cool I'll check it. Getting my ToM in a couple of weeks. Looking forward to owning one. Thx.

#3572 1 year ago

how are you breaking these things that you need protectors? I haven't had any issues really, besides my wife's friends husband who beat on the machine and broke the trunk.

#3573 1 year ago
Quoted from Robl45:

how are you breaking these things that you need protectors? I haven't had any issues really, besides my wife's friends husband who beat on the machine and broke the trunk.

When I got mine, most of the plastics were broken. Maybe they were the original plastics. Maybe 25 years of air balls got to all those plastics. But I will say, I have only seen one TOM on location with the inlane plastics in tact. Given that a plastics set is kinda expensive, I put the protectors on.

I also went through a new trunk in what seemed line no time. So I sprung for a silicone 'Unbreakable Trunk'. Not a problem since. Totally worth it, IMHO.

#3574 1 year ago
Quoted from UltraPeepi:

When I got mine, most of the plastics were broken. Maybe they were the original plastics. Maybe 25 years of air balls got to all those plastics. But I will say, I have only seen one TOM on location with the inlane plastics in tact. Given that a plastics set is kinda expensive, I put the protectors on.
I also went through a new trunk in what seemed line no time. So I sprung for a silicone 'Unbreakable Trunk'. Not a problem since. Totally worth it, IMHO.

+1 on the unbreakable trunk. Me and my friends broke two normal trunks in less than 3 years of play on my machine (they both got smashed up around the big hole). Saw the unbreakable trunk here on pinside and bought it. Had it for about two years now and I see zero wear on it. Great product.

#3575 1 year ago

I like having protection for my slingshots and I like the color additions. I have seen a number of games with the tip of the inlane plastic broken. Joe said the color combo I want is available, thx for the tip.

#3576 1 year ago

Hi there! I guess I'm part of the club now, as I'm the proud owner of a Theatre of Magic, my first pinball machine! I got it three weeks ago.

Apart from the mirrors on the side, a couple of LEDs and the spinning Tiger Saw, the machine is pretty original I think. I will change the type of saw the tiger's holding though, 'cause I don't like the looks of this one. The ROM version said 1.3X on startup, but the Trunk problem was present, so I'm guessing it was one of the first versions... I called a local pinball repair guy that came in and changed it to... another 1.3X. It solved the Trunk problem in single player mode, but not in multiplay. Does that make sense? He's suggesting replacing it with yet another 1.3X next week.

Before doing that, I'd like to understand the ROM-versions more, so I've been doing a lot of research... and it's a bit overwhelming for a newbie to say the least. This is what I think I know so far, starting from v1.3X. Any help to make me understand this better, would be very appreciated! Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong or add info if I'm missing something:

v1.3X dc89 did not have the Tiger Saw mod support. Needs original (U22 ?) security chip.
v1.3X 5bc8 did not have the Tiger Saw mod support. Needs original (U22 ?) security chip.
v1.3X 34ee got the Tiger Saw mod support from v1.4. Needs original (U22 ?) security chip.
v1.4 & v1.4H are modded 'unofficial' versions that need altered (U6 ?) security chip.
v2.0 is probably the latest and best version out there and needs the original (U22 ?) security chip.

I have a U22 security chip, I think (see the attached pic). Can I just upgrade to v2.0 then?

Pretty much all of the above revisions is thanks to a very talented programmer named Soren, right? Either way, I know he did a lot, so thanks soren !
IMG_2039 (resized).JPGIMG_2039 (resized).JPGIMG_2190 (resized).JPGIMG_2190 (resized).JPG

IMG_2191 (resized).JPGIMG_2191 (resized).JPG
#3577 1 year ago

You should be able to put in a 2.0 rom. I just put one in, haven't done much playing yet, but all seems fine. I agree on the saw, I run an original plastic one myself, I'm not a fan of a spinning metal object around wood. Things can and do get loose over time.

#3578 1 year ago
Quoted from Frogroar:

Hi there! I guess I'm part of the club now, as I'm the proud owner of a Theatre of Magic, my first pinball machine! I got it three weeks ago.
Apart from the mirrors on the side, a couple of LEDs and the spinning Tiger Saw, the machine is pretty original I think. I will change the type of saw the tiger's holding though, 'cause I don't like the looks of this one. The ROM version said 1.3X on startup, but the Trunk problem was present, so I'm guessing it was one of the first versions... I called a local pinball repair guy that came in and changed it to... another 1.3X. It solved the Trunk problem in single player mode, but not in multiplay. Does that make sense? He's suggesting replacing it with yet another 1.3X next week.
Before doing that, I'd like to understand the ROM-versions more, so I've been doing a lot of research... and it's a bit overwhelming for a newbie to say the least. This is what I think I know so far, starting from v1.3X. Any help to make me understand this better, would be very appreciated! Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong or add info if I'm missing something:
v1.3X dc89 did not have the Tiger Saw mod support. Needs original (U22 ?) security chip.
v1.3X 5bc8 did not have the Tiger Saw mod support. Needs original (U22 ?) security chip.
v1.3X 34ee got the Tiger Saw mod support from v1.4. Needs original (U22 ?) security chip.
v1.4 & v1.4H are modded 'unofficial' versions that need altered (U6 ?) security chip.
v2.0 is probably the latest and best version out there and needs the original (U22 ?) security chip.
I have a U22 security chip, I think (see the attached pic). Can I just upgrade to v2.0 then?
Pretty much all of the above revisions is thanks to a very talented programmer named Soren, right? Either way, I know he did a lot, so thanks soren !
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That is a nice looking TOM that you picked up. The URL below may prove useful to you in your research.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/theatre-of-magic-club/page/70#post-6757318

Gord

#3579 1 year ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

That is a nice looking TOM that you picked up. The URL below may prove useful to you in your research.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/theatre-of-magic-club/page/70#post-6757318
Gord

Thanks for that! Yes it does! Now I don't really know what to do, since my game has the second post added to the right of the Trunk... should I remove it, or no? Another discovery I made: apparently my Trunk is the unbreakable silicone one...

IMG_2197 (resized).JPGIMG_2197 (resized).JPG
#3580 1 year ago
Quoted from Frogroar:

Thanks for that! Yes it does! Now I don't really know what to do, since my game has the second post added to the right of the Trunk... should I remove it, or no? Another discovery I made: apparently my Trunk is the unbreakable silicone one...[quoted image]

My TOM was restored by HEP (Chris Hutchins) and I took delivery of it in April of 2010. You can see by the photo of my trunk how HEP treated this post issue.

Gord

P1020469 (resized).JPGP1020469 (resized).JPG

#3581 1 year ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

My TOM was restored by HEP (Chris Hutchins) and I took delivery of it in April of 2010. You can see by the photo of my trunk how HEP treated this post issue.
Gord
[quoted image]

Thanks, I’ll show this to my repair guy.

#3582 1 year ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

My TOM was restored by HEP (Chris Hutchins) and I took delivery of it in April of 2010. You can see by the photo of my trunk how HEP treated this post issue.
Gord
[quoted image]

That appears to be standard. Mine is the same way, it looks like someone used the hole for a post on the other persons probably because the ball was getting stuck because of the wrong rubber on the post next to it. Your game is missing the rubber on the post entirely.

#3583 1 year ago

The little mini-post thru the t-nut is to keep balls from jamming on the right of the trunk when it turns.

Some have a rubber, some dont.

Either way it seems to work well enough.

#3584 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The little mini-post thru the t-nut is to keep balls from jamming on the right of the trunk when it turns.
Some have a rubber, some dont.
Either way it seems to work well enough.

I have one post and I don't have issues with that, either way with no rubber on a post there, its just asking for dented balls.

#3585 1 year ago

Last week I noticed my ToM had 3 nonfunctioning flashers in the back board (behind the curtains: 2 on the left, 1 on the right). The pinball repair guy changed the bulbs and noticed the plug wasn't plugged in. So that did it, everything seemed to work until I noticed that GI string 5 was off. I tried switching fuses F106 (GI string 5) and F107 (GI string 4), which resulted in the two strings being off... I have new fuses coming in next week, but I don't think that's the problem now.

I took a look at connectors J120 and J121 on the power board. I have the impression that doesn't look right, but that's pretty much how far my technical experience with pinball machines goes. Anybody noticing anything odd?

Thanks!

J120 (resized).jpgJ120 (resized).jpgJ121 (resized).jpgJ121 (resized).jpgall (resized).jpgall (resized).jpg
#3586 1 year ago
Quoted from Frogroar:

Last week I noticed my ToM had 3 nonfunctioning flashers in the back board (behind the curtains: 2 on the left, 1 on the right). The pinball repair guy changed the bulbs and noticed the plug wasn't plugged in. So that did it, everything seemed to work until I noticed that GI string 5 was off. I tried switching fuses F106 (GI string 5) and F107 (GI string 4), which resulted in the two strings being off... I have new fuses coming in next week, but I don't think that's the problem now.
I took a look at connectors J120 and J121 on the power board. I have the impression that doesn't look right, but that's pretty much how far my technical experience with pinball machines goes. Anybody noticing anything odd?
Thanks! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

A trifurcon has been correctly installed for the backbox lights. Always the original connector gets burned black.

Still, you can have a bad crimp on a connection sometimes.

Those trifurcon connectors on j120 look badly crimped, but perhaps they were soldered also?

They are easy to remove and inspect.

I dont think that j120 is the problem though.

#3587 1 year ago
Quoted from Frogroar:

I took a look at connectors J120 and J121 on the power board. I have the impression that doesn't look right, but that's pretty much how far my technical experience with pinball machines goes. Anybody noticing anything odd?

Your image has been annotated.

gi.jpggi.jpg

Where does that wire go?

Quoted from Frogroar:

So that did it, everything seemed to work until I noticed that GI string 5 was off. I tried switching fuses F106 (GI string 5) and F107 (GI string 4), which resulted in the two strings being off... I have new fuses coming in next week, but I don't think that's the problem now.

GI String 5 is the VIO/WHT-VIO wires. Nothing looks out of the ordinary that I can see in the image. The VIO/WHT-VIO string also supplies the coin door at J119 and is not easily visible in your images. Be sure to check J115 (transformer secondary) or you can post an image of that connector and wires.

#3588 1 year ago

Looking for a prototype TOM so if any one has they might be kicking around letting go, let’s talk and if you are worried about going through withdrawal, I do have an extremely nice production TOM which was only ever in one local movie theater for not even a year before I bought it off location!

#3589 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Your image has been annotated.
[quoted image]
Where does that wire go?

GI String 5 is the VIO/WHT-VIO wires. Nothing looks out of the ordinary that I can see in the image. The VIO/WHT-VIO string also supplies the coin door at J119 and is not easily visible in your images. Be sure to check J115 (transformer secondary) or you can post an image of that connector and wires.

Thank you very much for this! I will check where the black wire goes tonight and post back. I will also try to post pics of J119 and J115.

#3590 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Those trifurcon connectors on j120 look badly crimped, but perhaps they were soldered also?
They are easy to remove and inspect. I dont think that j120 is the problem though.

Thank you. I will try to inspect those next weekend.

Quoted from DumbAss:

Where does that wire go?

The black wire is part of a "duo of wires" sticked together. The first one goes to 4 (additional?) GI lamps on the left side right above the flipper... which is actually GI string 4 territory, right? I'm starting to think that this might be the problem... although I have no idea how this technically conflicts with the flashers in the backboard and GI string 5 being off.

lamps (resized).jpglamps (resized).jpg
blackwire_end2 (resized).jpgblackwire_end2 (resized).jpg

The other one goes to... well, I honestly don't know what that thing is. Grounding perhaps?

blackwire_end1 (resized).jpgblackwire_end1 (resized).jpg

I also made pictures of J119 and J115. Can you see anything strange on them?

J119 (resized).jpgJ119 (resized).jpg
J115 (resized).jpgJ115 (resized).jpg

Thanks again!

1 week later
#3592 1 year ago

Trunk magnet not grabbing all of a sudden. Other than checking the connectors and possible a fuse, any thoughts to get me started?

#3593 1 year ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Trunk magnet not grabbing all of a sudden. Other than checking the connectors and possible a fuse, any thoughts to get me started?

Two things MUST be working for this feature:

  • The eddy sensor must register the ball. Use T1 (switch edges) to verify.
  • The magnet must have power and a (software) controlled path to ground. Use T4 (solenoid test) to verify. Make sure the coin door is closed.
#3594 1 year ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Trunk magnet not grabbing all of a sudden. Other than checking the connectors and possible a fuse, any thoughts to get me started?

I've had that problem and it was the fuse. Check the easy things first before thinking too much.

#3595 1 year ago
Quoted from Frogroar:

The black wire is part of a "duo of wires" sticked together. The first one goes to 4 (additional?) GI lamps on the left side right above the flipper... which is actually GI string 4 territory, right? I'm starting to think that this might be the problem... although I have no idea how this technically conflicts with the flashers in the backboard and GI string 5 being off.

Can't see where those red and black wires originate and where they go to. You will need to follow them from where they travel under the playfield from the sling. Without detailed images (from multiple angles) I can't follow their path.

Quoted from Frogroar:

The other one goes to... well, I honestly don't know what that thing is. Grounding perhaps?

I would disconnect the ring connector from the ground screw and isolate it. That is not factory. One side of the GI is grounded but it is grounded at J115 not J120 or J121.

Quoted from Frogroar:

I also made pictures of J119 and J115. Can you see anything strange on them?

These look fine. Nothing obviously wrong with them.

#3596 1 year ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Trunk magnet not grabbing all of a sudden. Other than checking the connectors and possible a fuse, any thoughts to get me started?

most likely one of the wires is broken. Happens a lot, as the trunk movement is pain for the old wires... Check below the playfield...

#3597 1 year ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I've had that problem and it was the fuse. Check the easy things first before thinking too much.

Fuse on the board or is there one inline near the trunk? Do you remember what fuse it was?

Thanks all, hoping for one of the easy fixes!

#3598 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Can't see where those red and black wires originate and where they go to. You will need to follow them from where they travel under the playfield from the sling. Without detailed images (from multiple angles) I can't follow their path.

I would disconnect the ring connector from the ground screw and isolate it. That is not factory. One side of the GI is grounded but it is grounded at J115 not J120 or J121.

These look fine. Nothing obviously wrong with them.

I replaced two fuses and fixed a damaged wire with a "cable inlet" (don't know the right English word for it) and everything seems to work now... I will disconnect the ring connector like you proposed. Thanks for all the help!

#3599 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Two things MUST be working for this feature:

The eddy sensor must register the ball. Use T1 (switch edges) to verify.
The magnet must have power and a (software) controlled path to ground. Use T4 (solenoid test) to verify. Make sure the coin door is closed.

Eddy worked, magnet did not. Blown 3a fuse on the MPU board (correction, fliptronic, F903). Back in business.

Thanks all for the help!

#3600 1 year ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Eddy worked, magnet did not. Blown 3a fuse on the MPU board. Back in business.
Thanks all for the help!

Got my GC score on ball 2, but for midnight madness and grand finale, had no magnet on the trunk. So assuming the 3A fuse blew again. Suggestions on what might be causing that thing to blow? I’ll check under the playfield for wires after I finish my 3rd ball!

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Manteca, CA
$ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 329.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
Other
€ 40.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pino Pinball Mods Shop
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 1.25
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 130.00
Playfield - Plastics
Pinball Haus
Plastics
$ 11.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
9,000
Machine - For Sale
Omaha, NE
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 15.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
Sound/Speakers
$ 219.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Lit Frames
Decorations
11,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Lake Villa, IL
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 38.00
Cabinet - Other
Pinball Mod Co.
Other
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Minneapolis, MN
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 29.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
Interactive
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
Armor and blades
$ 95.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Pinball Mod Co.
Sound/Speakers
$ 109.95
Electronics
PinSound
Electronics
From: $ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 5.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
Protection
$ 225.00
Cabinet - (Alt) Translites
FlyLand Designs
(Alt) Translites
$ 285.99
Cabinet - Other
PinSound
Other
From: $ 209.00
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