Awesome, guys. Thank you so much.

Pulled my 1.3 bios and found this guy under it. Lol.

2.0, saw motor mod works much better.

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Ahh yes, the most common problem with software, bugs.

anyone?

Try Marco. They have two types, one for games with magnets and one for no magnets.

I ordered the Ninja balls from Ball Barron as they seem to get good reviews. This game as well as DR. Dude has some magnets, NGG I believe doesn't have magnets. Will I have a problem with the balls magnetizing?

This is from the Ninja web page

PLEASE READ THE ENTIRE DESCRIPTION FOR IMPORTANT INFORMATION!
LINKS BELOW FOR INTERNATIONAL SALES
Measures 1-1/16″ and weighs 2.8 oz.

USE IN GAMES WITH MAGNETS: Some games which use magnets will rapidly magnetize the Ninja ball after just a few plays – those we are aware of include Lord of the Rings, Indiana Jones (Stern), and Dialed In. Other modern Stern games can cause chrome pinballs including the Ninja ball to become magnetized over time, leading to balls sticking together (usually in the trough). If you suddenly experience drained balls not being “seen” by the game, your balls have become magnetized. If your game has magnetic features, try our Polaris carbon pinballs.

I used Ninja balls on CV, and they lasted about 3 games before they were getting stuck in the trough, subway, etc. I think TOM only has the magnets to save the outlanes, but I'd stick with carbon steel balls for this game.

Just use regular balls from marco...

they work great and are cheap enough to throw them out every 450 plays to keep your playfield from wearing out.

ToM has two outlane magnets, one large magnet inside one of the trunk faces (captures for multiball) and also a large magnet as ramp diverter. I would not recommend using pinballs prone to be magnetized in this game.

Where did you get the peaker lights from?

I thought of the outlanes and remembered the ramp diverter after ordering. I forgot about the trunk. Oh well, They were fairly cheap so I'm not overly worried.

It's a full kit including the XL pin2dmd by Stumblor on pinballinfo. Only a few been made so far .

Hello,
Let me clarify something about security chips.

WILLIAMS introduced them in 1994, and since this date there is always a 'couple' with security chip + eprom.
So for Theatre 1.3 the security pic is '539' internal code, and for Theatre 1.4 home edition the security pic is '124' internal code.

For 2.0 version, it seem to be derivated from 1.3 version, so this work with '539' version of security pic.
But as they have changed the code, may be 2.0 can work with any version of security pic.

Fun game Theatre

Hey guys, help needed with the trunk. Bought my TOM 1 month ago. Looks nice, but there is this thing with the trunk. Today I cleaned my trunk motor according to this post ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/if-your-tom-trunk-is-acting-up-clean-the-gear-boxjunk-in-the-trunk ).

The trunk is smooth now, but this one problem persists. Whenever I get midnight madness, every ball that comes from the trunk magnet goes STDM. Is there a way to to adjust the trunk a little bit so this does not happen anymore? Midnight madness should be fun, but now I know i loose the ball in a second
I have the TOM 2.0 software, so I could set the STDM-trunk ball saver to ON, but that’s no fun. It should be hard, but not impossible.

When the trunk magnet drops the ball, the straight path via gravity is to the left flipper. I'm assuming your game is level (Left - right) ? Sorry if I sound like an ass for asking...

Yes it is level, but I honestly did not check this after the trunk maintenance. And you are surely not an ass for asking. Often times the simplest solutions are overseen. I'll check in a few hours to be sure.

Hi all, I’m having an issue with a new to me ToM. While playing the game, sometimes the subway opto will trigger as if I dropped a ball behind the trunk, I’ll get the guy falling down the staircase animation and “the fist ball is locked” call out. It does it seemingly randomly and I can’t recreate it.
I don’t have an issue with any other optos.

So far I’ve cleaned the optos and reseated all the relevant connectors on the opto board, CPU, and power driver boards. The opto tests fine in switch test.

I’d did notice the the opto board looks a little roached on the back behind the resistors. (I’m not too board savvy).

Could this be the cause of my issue? Wanted your guys’ opinions before I shell out the $75 for a new board.

Thanks all!

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Checked and adjusted a little. This looks better now, but the ball really comes to the tip of the left flipper.

Its been a long time since I messed with the trunk gearbox, but I'm wondering if maybe the metal post that the trunk attaches to could be adjusted slightly with the setscrews in the gearbox.

I got a new trunk and it's already chipped under a week of it being on the machine.

Got it from Ministry of Pinball , surely they shouldn't break this quickly?

Why.

Get the unbreakable trunk

Example of unbreakable trunk from my website

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https://aaarpinball.com/TheatreOfMagic/TheatreOfMagic.html

Not too much tech details on this one though...

This. I changed three trunks then I saw the unbreakable trunk and ordered it. It's still in great condition after many plays.

I think my other half is already on the list. I hope they make more soon

I have to get on that waitlist too... I can't even keep track of the number of trunks that I have replaced over the years...

I looked into the unbreakable trunik, for the price I could replace my trunk mulitple times and I don't play that much.

For me it's not about saving money but to not having the hassle of replacing trunks regularly. Bulletproofing games where possible.

Can't we have both?

I used a small fiberglass kit and reinforced the inside of my NOS truck when I put it in my TOM a few years ago. Still looks brand new. Then again, it isn't like mine gets played a ton anyway...

My trapdoor kickout is awful.
Either tip of the right Flipper or sdtm if you don't hold the flipper up.

There doesn't seem to be a way to adjust the angle of the trapdoor. Mine has a little bit of wiggle from the bit I've circled in this picture. I assume that's normal otherwise it would be too tight?
Screenshot_20220221-093558_Drive (resized).jpg
I've watched a few videos of other TOMs and they appear to kickout to the right of the right flipper and not as fast, (although speed can be misleading in video)

I'm not sure if the springs on the popper part are correct as when I googled the part number 10-428 the spring pictured has a torsion end (I'm not sure what this really means). I've ordered some of the correct springs so hopefully it'll improve it

Could anyone offer photos of this mech and the springs?
I'm not sure what torsion means and how the spring should sit.

Also how can you adjust the kickout?

I tried stretching the spring to offer more resistance so when the popper fires it can't fire as hard so less speed on the ball but didn't realise the top part of the popper has another spring counter balancing it...so the switch was permanently activated and I had undo my hack

Normally when adjusting the kickout angle for an assembly you loosen the screws attaching it to the playfield, rotate it all a bit sideways and tighten it back again. Have you tried this?

Yup, mine is broken a little on the bottom, but not even worth me swapping it out yet, I think I have a brand new one sitting in the garage. For the amount it gets played it wasn't worth it. I think it was like almost 200 dollars or something.

Also can make sure the game is level and with some trial and error if the rotating doesn't fix it and the game is level, could likely put some felt dots or whatever on the top of the trap door to cause the ball to get angled more in the direction that it needs to go.

I have another ongoing issue I've posted about in another thread. I lose music occasionally and twice I've had resets. I can't see any board damage and the batteries are off the board.
Previous owner said the power board was rebuilt so I'm not sure where to look. It's rare but annoying.

Yup, tried everything I could think of!

For now I have resolved it by adding some little furniture bumpers secured with electrical tape to the underside of the popper coil bracket.
So that the plunger armature thing travels less distance and therefore doesn't fire the ball so hard.
But still have the correct springs on order hoping they will resolve it.

I have the same issue as you stated above, once in awhile I get resets, We honestly don't play the games enough for it to be a major issue, but there is some device you can buy for like 35 dollars that piggybacks on the board and provides constant power.

Resets on a WPC system are EXTREMELY common and a well-known issue. Most will tell you that the right way to fix this is to replace the caps so you get good 5V power. However you are right, you can install a Kahr daughterboard and it will fix the condition. I've done this on at least a half dozen machines.

I've fixed low 5v on other pins properly but nothing seems amiss on theatre.
Might grab the daughter board.

Where can they be purchased? Any European distributors?

A differing opinion to some of these statements.

• WPC resets are common and well known.
• In my experience the most common cause is the header and connector. Re-seat the connector to see if that changes the situation. If the problem goes away (potentially for a while before coming back) then you have header and connector problem. You may still have an electrical problem on your power board but until you replace the header and connector that conclusion is not definitive. The one way to make a definitive conclusion is to measure the DC voltage and AC ripple. Ideally under load. If you don't measure then you don't know.
• The daughter board will NOT fix the condition. It will simply shift your power draw to a different location. Eventually that location may fail and now you will have two failure points. This board masks the problem. It does not fix it.

Anyone is welcome to disagree with the above opinions (especially coming from a "DumbAss").

I don't see this as a differing opinion. The daughterboard is indeed a "patch" to get around the actual problem - it robs the 12V supply to boost the 5V deficiency.

I wholeheartedly agree.

Its a $10k game at this pont.

Either fix it right or send it to Chris Hibler, or one of the other repair places.

Have all the boards bullet proofed.

After doing this, all problems vanish for the most part.

Does anyone happen to have an extra one of these plastics laying around they can part with? Thanks in advance!

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I contacted the manufacturer and I was told that the tiger saw/marquee mod had to use TP1 and a ground common to that board. My efforts to use an external power supply did not work. I really wanted to eliminate the alligator clip so I got a red connector ( what I call a splice connector and used the female side) and crimped the power lead to the tiger saw mod to it and then carefully compressed the female part of the connector. After a few tries I was able to get the connector tight enough so that it actually snapped onto TP1. The connector has plastic insulation covering the metal parts so the potential for it shorting something should it come off is eliminated, unlike alligator clips.

Illuminated tiger mod super cool!have the spinning saw blade, and lighted marquee mirror to go

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I am install new plastics with protectors. There are two plastics that are soo small, and I've never seen them NOT broken on a machine (or I just never noticed). They are the plastic between the inlane and outlane. My protector set did not come with a protector for these two delicate pieces.

Does anybody have protectors for these? If there is nothing available, I will make one and post here what I come up with.

FYI, the new plastic looks shabby because it still has the peel off film.

IMG_5093 (resized).png

I have one of these I am replacing, but it appears the previous owner rounded it and made it shorter. I never notice until I went to put on the replacement. If you are interested I'll DM an image of it.

Yes please, and thank you!

Apparently I can't send images in DM. Here is the old plastic on top of the new one. I think the old one probably start to warp, and bend down, making the ball on the wire ramp to get hung up on it. So they ground it down a bit.

IMG_5094 (resized).png

That’s definitely the piece I need and I see what you mean about it being ground down, makes sense it likely did warp and impede ball travel. Anyway, a modified correct piece to me is better than the promo plastic someone put on mine before I became the owner.

If you are willing to part with it, I will gladly compensate you for it, hopefully shipping isn’t ridiculous (not sure if you’re in the U.S. or not) but DM me if you don’t think it will be too much trouble to get it here. Thanks!