Finally, some restitution

Hi TOM people.

Sorry I forgot to announce the new release in here. I am extreamly pleased with this one. And I hope you will all consider installing it.

Someone was commenting on whether this is identical to the previous patch release. Well, there was a number of patches released back then. Four I think. Compared to the latest one, this official release fixes a bug where the captive ball would spot a rollover switch. And the presentation DMD screens are new.

People have been asking if stuff will work installing this and the Leon mod combined. Yes. But the Leon mod takes precedence on functionality.

Note that it requires v1.3 or earlier security chip. The agreement is that I keep security chip functionality in place. This is the deal. Sorry to those of you who have lost the original chip on v1.4 upgrades. Or bourgt an upgraded game w/o this being in the package.

Soren

Original security chips are available to purchase if needed.

Hey soren

Can you clarify your statement “ And the presentation DMD screens are new.”

What is a presentation dmd screen?

Startup and enter menu.

How hard is this to upgrade?

Is it just removing the old chip and putting the new one in (after getting it burned to a chip) as long as the security chip isn't newer than 1.3?
Then just re-setting up any ROM settings I assume?

Just make sure that the notch in the new upgraded ROM chip is aligned with the notch in the socket on the CPU board and you should be good to go. Also, as you mentioned the security chip cannot be newer than the 1.3 version security chip.

Then reboot your TOM and reset any game settings that you had prior to the ROM chip upgrade.

Gord

P1020388_cropped (resized).jpg

Just ordered it from MBA. I already have the 539 security chip since I was running 1.3x already, so it should be a quick upgrade.

What do I do for outlane eddy? At least one appears to be bad. I only seem to be able to find the 1-2 part number which appears to be for the trunk and not the outlanes.

Thanks

Rob

Get all 3 replacments from the Australians, they are really the best:

https://www.tanglestech.com/TPP-1023

They out of stock.

Did you try the calibration?

You might have to rebuild the board while waiting for replacements, its not too bad.

Most of the time its just the Pot that goes bad. Fitting a new, better one is pretty easy.

There are some posts on this.

https://www.tanglestech.com/TPP-1039

Yea, I'm really trying to avoid the full thing as my trunk works fine.

You mean adjusting the pot? I haven't yet, I have done it before. I'm getting some type of sensor error when I start the machine so I figured the board is probably done. Could you point me to the post on changing the pot? If its just the pot I could probably handle. I've been soldering for over 30 years, but little boards is not my expertise.

First do the calibration, it might be just fine.

Some good info on Pinside:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eddy-board-adjustment

Changing out the pot is usually is all they need.

Also press in the wires of the ICD connector with a credit card edge.
They get loose and seem like the board has failed.

So in essence loose wires and calibration first before thinking about repair or replacements.

The full TOM kit, https://www.tanglestech.com/TPP-1039 says it's IN stock (Albeit a bigger chunk of change)

Did someone buy the cpr mirrored backglass? My original just has a few scratches. Like to know if this is worth it.

I did adjust the eddy that was giving me problems and that appears to work, but still hoping to find the auto eddys as I can't imagine this is going to work forever.

After 10 years or so I'm finally ready to repair the top of this game. I have the color to use. Can I get some suggestions on what is the best way product to fill in the damage? I was originally thinking bondo, but that is a pain to sand etc, then I was thinking wood filler, but have no experience with what brand product might work best for this. Obvioiusly top isn't going to match well, mainly concerned with filling in the front top and painting the top left corner so that it looks normal from the front.

IMG-0295 (resized).jpg

Bondo is the definitive filler to use.

Aloha,

Looking for some insight on troubleshooting my ToM.

Was working great (after doing some fixing), now suddenly it's in a constant state of reboot. Flip switch, game powers on, all LEDs look good and go through their motions. After D20 starts blinking for awhile game reboots. Low voltage reset? Maybe a dying rectifier?

Thanks,

J

Try epoxy mixed with dye.. probably okay to paint on it too once it dries.

I suspect J120 on the power driver board.. when I reseated the connector, that seemed to solve an earlier issue I had with the lower playfield lamps not coming on... (This is currently the case again now, too...) I think I want to try rewiring the connector back to IDC (everything else is) because I feel like what I have now isn't making good contact... Not to mention pin 7 has overheated, or IS overheating for some reason. Any thoughts? Maybe the pins weren't crimped properly and there's an arc between the wire and the molex(?) pin? Is that possible? EDIT: I also want to note that J121 has also been molexed; it controls the G.I. inserts...
IMG_20211208_174554044.jpgIMG_20211208_174622530.jpg

planning on using this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NJDAJY/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_4

Found on another thread on here that said use either this or Bondo and this looks like it will be a bit easier than bondo especially if I can get it relatively smooth in one shot.

That will work, but since its a corner it will crack off.

All of that loose wood will have to be scraped out.

Ideally if its a corner, I use kitty hair to reinforce the corner and use half-time to glaze over it before primer and paint.

Resin is the only way to fix a corner for good.

We have tried tons of methods and they all fail to be strong.

Tiger hair or Kitty hair to fix a corner then half-time, then primer, then paint.

Mask off the verticle edge, mask off 2" beyond the top edge for feathering. You should be OK.

Its about a 1 to 2 hour repair.

unfortunately, the halftime is 6 times the price of the jbweld wood filler alone.

are you saying I have to prime before painting? I was just going to get some krylon fusion spray paint, spray it in a cup and use a little paint brush to touchup the top left corner that can be seen when you aren't on a ladder.

Resin is the only sure way and any glazing compound will work.

I have tried the cheap red bondo glazing putty over the resin, it works ok if you let it dry overnight, but it doesnt dry hard like half-time. Its softer but easier to sand.

You should always primer to get the paint to adhere to epoxy or resin.

But as always, theres a right way to do it if you want to.

I'm a little confused by the terminology, is resin the bondo or is resin the kitty hair? And what is the glaze used for, halftime, red glaze or otherwise?

All of the fillers are a type of epoxy resin, including kitty hair (its a resin with fiberglass strands filler)

After using a filler its best to glaze over it to insure its "paint ready". Its a super thin coat and gets mostly sanded off.

Fillers usually have pinholes and defects in them. These happen as gasses leave the compounds while curing.

Glazing puttys fill these imperfections and dont out-gas.

then a primer is applied to get the paint to stick to the oily epoxy fillers.

Primer fills in imperfections in the glazing compound and is an adhesion promoter for the paint.

You have a substantial amount of ruined wood to remove before filling and painting.

Fortunately you can paint the whole top if needed and it will look perfect.

The ruined left side will be hardly noticable after repaired and painted.

I use half-time as a leveling compound as well as a glaze.

If I screw up the main filler by over sanding it or whatever, I can apply half-time to the area and fix it.

Half time is sandable in 15 mins and requires no glaze over it.

I also use half-time on bare wood for small imperfections or nicks, its primer ready after sanding.

Its very versatile stuff, I use it all the time.

Can someone provide me with the OEM part number for this post? Previous owner had a rollover lane post on it but I wanted to replace with the proper one.

IMG_3316 (resized).jpg

I am having a bit of a trap door issue. Specifically, sometimes when the trap door is triggered during game play it stays in the open position for some time before closing (as opposed to closing immediately after swallowing the ball). For example, when you get a haunted basement award (virtual pinball say) sometimes the trap door remains open during that sequence instead of closing. In looking at the bracket (pic attached) it looks like over time the up and down motion of the trap door has created a small indentation which the notch of the trap door assembly appears to be catching which sometimes leads to the trap door getting stuck open.

Anyone else experience this? Is the solution to obtain a new metal housing and swap out? Any thought appreciated.

ToM Trap Door Bracket (resized).jpg

Metal file and make it smooth again? Does it always work fine in test mode?

Newbie back again, looking for help!

I need to replace my "vanish" lock switch, and have a few questions:

First, does anyone have the part # and/or the best place to buy the vanish switch?

Second, the manual (and the game itself) shows a vanish lock 1 and vanish lock 2. I never knew of a second vanish lock until I saw it in the manual. Never ran across it playing the game. Does anyone know why vanish lock 2 is in the game? Is it something they decided not to use at the last minute?

And if vanish lock 2 is in fact unnecessary, can I use the vanish lock 2 switch to replace the vanish lock 1 switch?

TIA for any info.

Frank

Thats what I was thinking, metal file.

That's the file I put all my Black Sabbath and Metallic albums in.

Thanks... I'll give that a try. I didn't really want to replace the entire bracket anyway. I think too much play was unintentionally built in to the trap door mechanism which over years and years of play caused this issue. I've looked at a lot of ToM playfields and the vast majority have the telltale playfield wear marks at certain corners of the trap door kickout hole which, to me, means that the slight topside side-to-side movement was a rampant issue and may have translated to the backet becoming notched on a particular side. If there wasn't as much play maybe the wear on the bracket wouldn't have occurred. But I don't profess to be game engineer so perhaps I'm totally off-base. Either way, just hoping for a straightforward fix. Thanks.

Anybody want a bunch of random parts I bought when I was planning to replace some old parts on my TOM.

Will offer them at a fair price.

Message if interested.

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Anyone use the 2.0 ROM with their colorDMD? Thinking about getting the LED one, just want to make sure the updated ROM works. Thanks.

Did you try using the trifurcan crimps? the ones that come in contact with the post on 3 sides in stead of 1? a tighter fit and less contact resistance and less over heating.

Yes. Works great! NO PROBLEM!!

-Rob

Joining the club next week!

It's from a guy we know, he's had it 25 years and it's been looked after well, LEDs, mirror blades and other little things. It was beautiful when we went to see it

I already have the tiger saw mod and I'm going to add an afterglow GI (ledocd GI alternative) as soon as I can.

Thing is it's coming the day before we are holding a tournament. So this first post is mainly a hello! And a question....

What tweaks can be done to ToM to make it more brutal and ball times lower?
I heard that ToM can be a forgiving game and ball times quite long.
The format is flip frenzy so I am hoping to get most of my games playing similar (ish) lengths.

Obviously Extra balls off and tournament mode.
Cheers folks

Will share photos when we have it we also have a Capcom Pinball Magic so I'm looking for to them sitting next to each other!

Does anyone have PinSound on their TOM?

Pinsound with the shaker is a hot setup.

Thanks

That's too bad. Would a Pinmonk fan kit help cool it down some?

IMHO the audio for TOM is quite excellent without any changes.

All - I need some advice on fixes for a really "loose" trap door meaning that the pivoting from side-to-side is getting really excessive and just feels like there is way to much play in the hardware. I believe all ToMs have this issue to some degree (I've seen this issue on a lot of machines) but mine is getting extremely loose and is creating, in my opinion, excess playfield wear at the edges of the trap door. I was considering the Cliffy protector (carbon fiber piece) but that (1) won't cover the existing damage (or further protect the areas at issue) and (2) otherwise doesn't do anything to address the underlying issue. I'm thinking the entire trap door assembly probably needs to be rebuilt including new coils and sleeves but was hoping for a less labor-intensive fix. Also, if anyone has advice on the best manner to touch up the affected playfield areas and a means to further protect those areas in the future that would be much appreciated. See attached photos. Thanks!

ToM Trap Door 1 (resized).jpg

ToM Trap Door 2 (resized).jpg