(Topic ID: 43909)

Theatre of Magic Club

By Nilroc

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 10 days ago by rmf-pinball
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There are 3,443 posts in this topic. You are on page 67 of 69.
#3301 7 months ago
Quoted from AAAV8R:

Well, here’s where I’m at so far…..
ALL fuses test OK.
Measuring .96v at TP1. LED 7 out. So yes, definitely a problem with unregulated 12v.
I unplugged J116, J117, and J118. LED7 glows dim, and TP1 only reads around 2v.
18v power is good, and 12v regulated also tests good.
So…………it looks like C30 or BR5 the likely suspects?
————————————————————
Related - what’s available out there for both replacement boards or board repair?
I’m going to take a stab at repairing this board, but if I can’t git r done I’m going to have to turn to professional help (which is pretty much anyone other than myself).

As said above... chris Hibler. But you can buy a new WPC driver board from pinballbasement.

Chris is pretty busy and it’s a bit of a wait on a board repair.

#3302 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

https://www.tanglestech.com/TPP-1023
Roughly the same price as the pinbits ones, but actually in stock.
I dont know if they have the separate trunk ones or if these are for the outlanes, or just for all of them.
They look like a better product than the pinbits ones.

I can vouch for these - they work great and adjustments are a thing of the past.

#3303 7 months ago

hello club! I wanted to gold chrome my Tom wired ramps and magnet housing, do you have advices on how to remove the magnet witouth damage?? it is like glued inside

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#3304 7 months ago

Little screw driver in inside hole of magnet and try to nudge it left or right usually does the trick.

#3305 7 months ago

Well, my machine is back from the dead.

When I got the board off, I tested BR5 and it showed failed on one side. So, removed and replaced BR5. Easy fix. Side note - first time working with solder wick. Man does that stuff ever work slick!

Anyways, I noticed a couple of squawks when I ran the test mode. One was the shooter lane switch. When I looked at the switch, it was actually down beneath the surface of the plywood. Not sure how long it has been that way or whether I inadvertently did that during my fix. Will the game even play with that switch inop? Could I have been playing with the switch bent and inop and not even noticed it?

At any rate, I bent it up a little, but still coming up short of where it needs to be. Could someone please take a couple up close pics of their shooter lane switch so I can work on getting mine where it needs to be? Also, If anyone sees anything obviously wrong in my pics please let me know. Thanks!

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#3306 7 months ago
Quoted from Paulbozo:

Little screw driver in inside hole of magnet and try to nudge it left or right usually does the trick.

that's not working.. there's no way to access to the lower part with a screwdriver without damaging the magnet plastic..I've already damaged it following this suggestion, if I continue like this, the magnet will be teared in 2 parts..

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#3307 7 months ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

that's not working.. there's no way to access to the lower part with a screwdriver without damaging the magnet plastic..I've already damaged it following this suggestion, if I continue like this, the magnet will be teared in 2 parts.. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Heat gun on top, gentle prying helps.

#3308 7 months ago

Just picked up a ToM and am looking for auto eddy boards. Do they still exist? Pinbits is sold out and inactive. Anything alternatives?

#3309 7 months ago
Quoted from Isjack:

Just picked up a ToM and am looking for auto eddy boards. Do they still exist? Pinbits is sold out and inactive. Anything alternatives?

These? ebay.com link: itm

#3310 7 months ago

I bought mine from Tangles tech and I'm happy with them.

https://www.tanglestech.com/TPP-1023

#3312 7 months ago

Thanks all, also looking for this plastic if anyone has one to sell

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#3313 7 months ago

Is there a way to adjust the inlane magnets to reliably drop the ball in the inlane? My magnets catch the ball 100% of the time but the release is always down the outlane

#3314 7 months ago

Is this both inlanes or only the left inlane?

I know that in a lot (all?) of the games, the left inlane is a 50/50 chance due to the fact that it's run to different power source than the right inlane, which, in the ToMs I have owned is pretty much 100% into the inlane. The left is a bit 'wobby' with a weaker hold, while the right is solid 100% and drops down in the games I have owned.

#3315 7 months ago

Looking for the right sling plastic! I have a new left sling plastic if someone wants to trade. The right plastic seem to be infamous for being chipped on the lower corner

#3316 7 months ago

I am getting a “check switch 87” message. See pic below. You can see the white wire (at bottom of photo) is broken off from the pin on the left side of the switch.

Ok, no prob, an easy fix, right?

Well wait a minute…….it looks like someone has soldered what appears to be a diode between the two outer pins on the switch.

WHY??

Does this have anything to do with the white wire? Was the white wire intentionally disconnected?

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#3317 7 months ago

Here's a picture of mine.

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#3318 7 months ago
Quoted from AAAV8R:

I am getting a “check switch 87” message. See pic below. You can see the white wire (at bottom of photo) is broken off from the pin on the left side of the switch.
Ok, no prob, an easy fix, right?
Well wait a minute…….it looks like someone has soldered what appears to be a diode between the two outer pins on the switch.
WHY??
Does this have anything to do with the white wire? Was the white wire intentionally disconnected?[quoted image][quoted image]

Diodes are standard on that era switches.

solder on the wire, you should be good to go.

#3319 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Diodes are standard on that era switches.
solder on the wire, you should be good to go.

Yeah my learning curve is pretty vertical with this machine. I removed my post after poking around on this site and finding all of the other switches with diodes. Had to replace the shooter lane switch too, so I just cannibalized the diode off of the old switch.

Interesting in that I found a lot of threads on here about the proper wiring of the diodes onto the switches, but couldn’t find any thread/site explaining WHY the diodes are needed. If anyone knows of a good spot explaining this, please post the link here.

Anyways…….BR replaced, switch soldered, switch replaced, new carbon steel balls from Ball Baron installed………(hopefully) good to go!

#3320 7 months ago
Quoted from AAAV8R:

Yeah my learning curve is pretty vertical with this machine. I removed my post after poking around on this site and finding all of the other switches with diodes. Had to replace the shooter lane switch too, so I just cannibalized the diode off of the old switch.
Interesting in that I found a lot of threads on here about the proper wiring of the diodes onto the switches, but couldn’t find any thread/site explaining WHY the diodes are needed. If anyone knows of a good spot explaining this, please post the link here.
Anyways…….BR replaced, switch soldered, switch replaced, new carbon steel balls from Ball Baron installed………(hopefully) good to go!

Diodes are use when there is a switch matrix. You have two wires attached to that switch, but those wires are also attached to 7 other switches. When you close a switch, current flows from + to -. A diode acts like a One Way valve allowing current to flow in the proper direction. When another switch in the chain is closed, it can backfeed current the wrong way if that diode isn't there.

Edit: found this guide that explains it in more depth:

https://www.flippers.be/basics/101_switch_matrix.html

#3321 7 months ago

I am still having a problem hooking up the Tiger Saw and Marquee. I tried using an external power supply. I had one in use already to light some speaker lights. The Tiger Saw has a controller board that had a black wire going to ground and a red wire that was hooked to TP1 for power. So I clipped the red wire and black wires and connected them to the 12 v external power supply. The power supply is plugged into a smart power strip that turns it on when the game is turned on. The problem that I have is that the saw starts spinning as soon as it gets power and does not stop. I thought TP1 supplied 12V constantly to the controller board and that hooking it up to the power supply would work the same. So anyone else hooked up the Saw and Marquee different from the TP1 power connection?

In Post 3295 I asked:
i have a question for you guys that have added the tiger saw/lit marquee mod to your game. The installation instructions call for getting 12 v by clipping the alligator clip to TP1. I did this and it works, but I don't like the idea of the clip on the power driver board. Has anyone picked up 12v for this mod from another location?
Response:
Your best bet is to route it through an external power supply.

#3322 7 months ago
Quoted from PittPin:

I am still having a problem hooking up the Tiger Saw and Marquee. I tried using an external power supply. I had one in use already to light some speaker lights. The Tiger Saw has a controller board that had a black wire going to ground and a red wire that was hooked to TP1 for power. So I clipped the red wire and black wires and connected them to the 12 v external power supply. The power supply is plugged into a smart power strip that turns it on when the game is turned on. The problem that I have is that the saw starts spinning as soon as it gets power and does not stop. I thought TP1 supplied 12V constantly to the controller board and that hooking it up to the power supply would work the same. So anyone else hooked up the Saw and Marquee different from the TP1 power connection?
In Post 3295 I asked:
i have a question for you guys that have added the tiger saw/lit marquee mod to your game. The installation instructions call for getting 12 v by clipping the alligator clip to TP1. I did this and it works, but I don't like the idea of the clip on the power driver board. Has anyone picked up 12v for this mod from another location?
Response:
Your best bet is to route it through an external power supply.

I don't know much about the tiger saw mod installation but I do know your game ROM need to support the tiger saw mod for it to work properly and most versions doesn't. Are you sure you are running the correct SW version?

#3323 7 months ago

Hi all, I'm Dennis. Just spent the last days lurking to 67 pages of this thread and learnt a lot. I have been saving up for my first machine since quite some time. Decisions to make because there are so many good ones. But couldn't resist TOM. So i'd like to join the club. She is in need of some love but nothing i can't handle reading all these posts. First thing is to get some leds and stop the current flowing through the connectors. I tried some on the playfield and they look nice but i need some advice before i buy alot of them. Theatre has dimming in GI does it really matter that much if you lose that and go all led even on the GI? Also has anyone good tips on the colors. I'm no purist at all otherwise i would use all white lighting.

#3324 6 months ago

Getting ready to dive into a problem with my trunk that started yesterday. I turned it on to play and at some point it started missing the stopping point and sometimes seemingly gets lost. I went into trunk test mode and sometimes it works, sometimes it misses and stops 10 degrees off or so and sometimes just keeps spinning in 360 degrees not stopping anywhere.

Before I start really digging in, have any of you seen this behavior? Trunk sensor board? Connections?

Edit: trunk has the metal sensor ring and it is not cracked or anything.

Thanks!

#3325 6 months ago
Quoted from Dennis_B:

Hi all, I'm Dennis. Just spent the last days lurking to 67 pages of this thread and learnt a lot. I have been saving up for my first machine since quite some time. Decisions to make because there are so many good ones. But couldn't resist TOM. So i'd like to join the club. She is in need of some love but nothing i can't handle reading all these posts. First thing is to get some leds and stop the current flowing through the connectors. I tried some on the playfield and they look nice but i need some advice before i buy alot of them. Theatre has dimming in GI does it really matter that much if you lose that and go all led even on the GI? Also has anyone good tips on the colors. I'm no purist at all otherwise i would use all white lighting.

You can get a board called GI-OCD and it will make a full LED GI look as smooth as incandescent would. They also have a product called LED-OCD which is for all the inserts and other places you might use LED. I'm using both in my TOM with mostly bright warm white LEDs and I'm very happy with the results.

http://ledocd.com/

However both of those are extra money and time you gotta spend. Without those boards I would still recommend warm white LEDs throughout, and truthfully the dimming GI with modern LEDs isn't too bad. It flickers but most people don't even notice or care.

If you want to give your game a real special look I would take a look at this: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1025-professor-pinball/00258-tom-pinduino-interactive-lighting-kit

Also PinStadium gives you a ton of flexibility to give your game the exact style of lighting you want, especially if you want it really bright.

#3326 6 months ago
Quoted from Coyohtay:

Getting ready to dive into a problem with my trunk that started yesterday. I turned it on to play and at some point it started missing the stopping point and sometimes seemingly gets lost. I went into trunk test mode and sometimes it works, sometimes it misses and stops 10 degrees off or so and sometimes just keeps spinning in 360 degrees not stopping anywhere.
Before I start really digging in, have any of you seen this behavior? Trunk sensor board? Connections?
Edit: trunk has the metal sensor ring and it is not cracked or anything.
Thanks!

Start with cleaning the trunk optos.

If that doesn't help then check if your metal opto interruptor have come a bit loose. Try carefully tightening the small screw holding it in place.

#3327 6 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Start with cleaning the trunk optos.
If that doesn't help then check if your metal opto interruptor have come a bit loose. Try carefully tightening the small screw holding it in place.

Thanks! I thought cleaning it might be the first thing to try and makes the most sense before I start replacing parts. The ring is definitely not loose. I had the playfield propped up so I could cycle the trunk so I could watch the slot and the behavior.

#3328 6 months ago
Quoted from Coyohtay:

Getting ready to dive into a problem with my trunk that started yesterday. I turned it on to play and at some point it started missing the stopping point and sometimes seemingly gets lost. I went into trunk test mode and sometimes it works, sometimes it misses and stops 10 degrees off or so and sometimes just keeps spinning in 360 degrees not stopping anywhere.
Before I start really digging in, have any of you seen this behavior? Trunk sensor board? Connections?
Edit: trunk has the metal sensor ring and it is not cracked or anything.
Thanks!

Also try re-flowing solder at the pins on the opto board. A cracked solder joint will have the same effect at a bad/dirty opto.

#3329 6 months ago

Yesterday in the middle of a game a ball went down behind the trunk and into the ball-lock, then nothing happened. The coil for lifting the trap door fired a few times (no ball popped out) and then it soon went into ball search. Took off glass and removed the ball from the subway.

Put all balls into the trough, started a game and put the 1st ball from the shooter lane manually down below the trunk. Game apparently "locked" the ball successfully as it didn't come out from trapdoor and instead ejected ball 2 to the shooter lane. Took ball nr2 and also put it down below the trunk and this time nothing more happened. No 3rd ball ejected into shooter lane. I think game went into ball search after that, not entirely sure.

Opened coin door and tried to enter the service menu but no buttons seemed to work, at least no text changed on the DMD which I found weird.

Turned of game again and checked all fuses; found both F903 and F904 on the Fliptronic board were blown. The manual states F903 & F904 are for the lower right and lower left flippers but as far as I can remember both flippers was working when all this happened which is strange. According to the manual F901 and F902 are for upper right/left flippers (which this game obviously doesn't have as its a two flipper game). I think I've read somewhere that on games with only two flippers the fliptronic board controls other coils too (probably the physical ball lock coils on this game).

I've checked every coil connection in the game and all were soldered firm, no loose ends. I haven't done any maintenance on this game for at least a month so no recent tinkering with it that could be the cause. Also did an extra visual check around the physical ball lock regarding switches, loose stuff or anything touching metal parts and so on but nothing strange found.

I guess I could just turn it on and see what happens but as both fuses had blown pretty hard (black speck on the inside of fuse) I'm worried that replacing them and turning the game on would blow them again or even worse damage other components (if that haven't already happened).

If the blown fuses directly corresponded to the ball-lock coils I wouldn't hesitate as much but now I'm confused as F903/904 indicates problem with the flippers (according to the manual) but if I recall correctly they both worked before turning off the game and it seems the fault is at the ball lock where I don't see any problems at all.

Any advice on what to check or should I just bite the bullet and test turning it on and see what happens?

Thanks

#3330 6 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Yesterday in the middle of a game a ball went down behind the trunk and into the ball-lock, then nothing happened. The coil for lifting the trap door fired a few times (no ball popped out) and then it soon went into ball search. Took off glass and removed the ball from the subway.
Put all balls into the trough, started a game and put the 1st ball from the shooter lane manually down below the trunk. Game apparently "locked" the ball successfully as it didn't come out from trapdoor and instead ejected ball 2 to the shooter lane. Took ball nr2 and also put it down below the trunk and this time nothing more happened. No 3rd ball ejected into shooter lane. I think game went into ball search after that, not entirely sure.
Opened coin door and tried to enter the service menu but no buttons seemed to work, at least no text changed on the DMD which I found weird.
Turned of game again and checked all fuses; found both F903 and F904 on the Fliptronic board were blown. The manual states F903 & F904 are for the lower right and lower left flippers but as far as I can remember both flippers was working when all this happened which is strange. According to the manual F901 and F902 are for upper right/left flippers (which this game obviously doesn't have as its a two flipper game). I think I've read somewhere that on games with only two flippers the fliptronic board controls other coils too (probably the physical ball lock coils on this game).
I've checked every coil connection in the game and all were soldered firm, no loose ends. I haven't done any maintenance on this game for at least a month so no recent tinkering with it that could be the cause. Also did an extra visual check around the physical ball lock regarding switches, loose stuff or anything touching metal parts and so on but nothing strange found.
I guess I could just turn it on and see what happens but as both fuses had blown pretty hard (black speck on the inside of fuse) I'm worried that replacing them and turning the game on would blow them again or even worse damage other components (if that haven't already happened).
If the blown fuses directly corresponded to the ball-lock coils I wouldn't hesitate as much but now I'm confused as F903/904 indicates problem with the flippers (according to the manual) but if I recall correctly they both worked before turning off the game and it seems the fault is at the ball lock where I don't see any problems at all.
Any advice on what to check or should I just bite the bullet and test turning it on and see what happens?
Thanks

Arent those fuses for the magnets?

Id turn it on and see what happens.

#3331 6 months ago

So something isn’t adding up. Either the fuses are not for the flippers, or the fuses aren’t actually blown. You said that you determined that the fuses were blown by visual inspection. Did you test the fuses with a multimeter? I have mistakenly thought fuses were blown before too based upon looks.

If the fuses are in fact blown, I would replace them and turn the machine back on. Either way, you are going to have to narrow down the possibilities of problems and isolate the cause. If the fuses blow again, then you know that a problem lies upstream and that reduces a lot of other possibilities.

The ball in the subway seems unrelated. I would test the switches in the subway first. Also check for magnetized balls. I am new to this game and I was surprised at how fast the balls magnetized. This caused problems with both the feed in the subway and the main ball trough. If the balls don’t feed properly, then the machine gets confused and starts searching for balls and you start seeing odd things going on like balls ejecting from the trap door when they should lock.

As a side note, you can see a few posts up that I had a severe meltdown with my machine. This was caused by a single bridge rectifier on the power board going out. Just one broken BR caused all sorts of weird problems that seemed like unrelated failures. However, in the end, just replacing the one BR caused EVERYTHING to come back to normal.

Best of luck!

#3332 6 months ago

Let me know if you would sell or consider trading your TOM. Any condition fine.

#3333 6 months ago
Quoted from AAAV8R:

So something isn’t adding up. Either the fuses are not for the flippers, or the fuses aren’t actually blown. You said that you determined that the fuses were blown by visual inspection. Did you test the fuses with a multimeter? I have mistakenly thought fuses were blown before too based upon looks.
If the fuses are in fact blown, I would replace them and turn the machine back on. Either way, you are going to have to narrow down the possibilities of problems and isolate the cause. If the fuses blow again, then you know that a problem lies upstream and that reduces a lot of other possibilities.
The ball in the subway seems unrelated. I would test the switches in the subway first. Also check for magnetized balls. I am new to this game and I was surprised at how fast the balls magnetized. This caused problems with both the feed in the subway and the main ball trough. If the balls don’t feed properly, then the machine gets confused and starts searching for balls and you start seeing odd things going on like balls ejecting from the trap door when they should lock.
As a side note, you can see a few posts up that I had a severe meltdown with my machine. This was caused by a single bridge rectifier on the power board going out. Just one broken BR caused all sorts of weird problems that seemed like unrelated failures. However, in the end, just replacing the one BR caused EVERYTHING to come back to normal.
Best of luck!

The fuses are absolutely blown, no need to measure with multimeter

20210628_153423 (resized).jpg

After inspecting the ball lock area and flipper area without finding anything wrong I decided to take my chances and turned it on. Diagnostic leds in backboard lights fine, no problem indication on DMD. Played 5-6 balls with glass off, testing ball lock, multiball, flipping both flippers at the same time and so on. Everything seem to work as it should.

I'm happy game works but am a bit worried about what caused both fuses to blow earlier. Guess I've to see if it happens again later on, not much to go on right now.

#3334 6 months ago

Glad to see it worked out!

Sounds like the fuses did what they were designed to do - protect the system from transient surges. If it happens repeatedly, then yes, big problem.

But until then, enjoy playing!

#3335 6 months ago
Quoted from Dennis_B:

Hi all, I'm Dennis. Just spent the last days lurking to 67 pages of this thread and learnt a lot. I have been saving up for my first machine since quite some time. Decisions to make because there are so many good ones. But couldn't resist TOM. So i'd like to join the club. She is in need of some love but nothing i can't handle reading all these posts. First thing is to get some leds and stop the current flowing through the connectors. I tried some on the playfield and they look nice but i need some advice before i buy alot of them. Theatre has dimming in GI does it really matter that much if you lose that and go all led even on the GI? Also has anyone good tips on the colors. I'm no purist at all otherwise i would use all white lighting.

Check out the lighting on my machine and PM me if you want to ask questions.

1 week later
#3336 6 months ago

The upper kickout hole on my ToM stopped working correctly. The switch works (ball detected resting in the hole) during switch test and the coil works during coil tests but during gameplay the ball just sits in the hole and that coil is not activated during ball search.

1 week later
#3337 5 months ago

Stupid question, but I am getting hangups on this plastic on the theater ramp -- anyone have/can snap a pic of how their plastic aligns with the ramp? I can't seem to finesse it into place.

20210722_095234 (resized).jpg
#3338 5 months ago

Where exactly is it hanging up? The hole that it's supposed to drop through when it doesn't have enough momentum? I'd just try and bend the wire form a bit out of the way if that's the case.

I took a picture but honestly it doesn't show any useful information as your setup looks basically fine - except for the missing plastic and hardware bits but I'm assuming you already took those off?

#3339 5 months ago

Getting hung up here. I don't know how I can realign the plastic, I'll dig into the ramp and see if I can push it out further away from the plastic. You can see the balls have had their way with the plastic. I just picked up the game recently and got it running 100% -- saw the ball really slowed down on the theatre ramp, and the plastic is the issue, it's ricocheting the ball off the wireform and then the guide kicks it back on.

Thanks for taking the effort -- you're right, I took off the other plastic. I figured it was the clear plastic causing the issue, this one is more annoying to figure out. Just wanted to make sure I was in the right starting place, appreciate it!

Capture (resized).PNG

#3340 5 months ago

I tested a ball in the same spot on my game and it's impossible to get stuck. You may need a new plastic because if it has worn out a groove that's trapping the ball. The rails may also be bent slightly towards the plastic to close the gap.

This area on TOM can trap balls a few different ways. At the very beginning of the wire form ramp if it's adjusted too high or low can cause bricks and hang ups. Also there's a rubber post right after the ball gate coming from the left orbit shot that can turn into a trap if the rubber is old and misshaped.

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#3341 5 months ago

Trunk stopped working two games after I got the game 100% bahaha. Damn you ToM!

Edit: and we are back. Thanks for the help all.

#3342 5 months ago

Just picked up my Theatre of Magic. Love it!

I’m wondering how much “play” (wiggle) the top of the trap door should have?

Tomorrow I need to look closer but when it pops up, it seems the top moves a bit — but otherwise works perfectly.

Here’s a pic from the quick setup!

F307A46F-36E6-44DE-A675-0AA457651497 (resized).jpeg
#3343 5 months ago
Quoted from altan:

Just picked up my Theatre of Magic. Love it!
I’m wondering how much “play” (wiggle) the top of the trap door should have?

There's some wiggle, it shouldn't be rigidly stiff.

#3344 5 months ago

My theatre must hate me... I've got this game for a couple of months now. My best score is 3,1 billion. That was without the grand finale and just good bonus multipliers. Now i reached the the grand finale for the first time, was on ball 2 with two extraballs still to go and score about 2,5 billion. Then it just decided to reset on me !!!!

#3345 5 months ago
Quoted from altan:

I’m wondering how much “play” (wiggle) the top of the trap door should have?

If I recall correctly the trapdoor top is the same construction as on the MM trolls; two shafts with springs and e-clips holding the lid in place. It should be able to wiggle if needed (to lie flat against the playfield when closed).

I don't ever recall seeing my lid move around when playing, have you checked the assembly? You should be able to wiggle it a bit by hand though, that's normal.

#3346 5 months ago
Quoted from Dennis_B:

My theatre must hate me... I've got this game for a couple of months now. My best score is 3,1 billion. That was without the grand finale and just good bonus multipliers. Now i reached the the grand finale for the first time, was on ball 2 with two extraballs still to go and score about 2,5 billion. Then it just decided to reset on me !!!!

Do you have a 5V reset fix installed? If not you definitely want it! Search the pinside market for them.

#3347 5 months ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Do you have a 5V reset fix installed? If not you definitely want it! Search the pinside market for them.

Or find and fix the real issues (can be tricky yes). That 5v reset fix card is just a band aid and not a permanent fix but people tend to install them and think problem solved.

#3348 5 months ago

Heeeeeyyyyy,

Back with a new issue!

Was playing a game and had both flippers activated while magnet was grabbing draining ball... Magnet, flippers and start button "died". Assuming it's a fuse but any enlightenment would be appreciated.

Pressing the start button multiple times, I was able to initiate a game, but no ball appears in the shooter lane.

Thanks in advance

z

#3349 5 months ago
Quoted from zhu808:

Heeeeeyyyyy,
Back with a new issue!
Was playing a game and had both flippers activated while magnet was grabbing draining ball... Magnet, flippers and start button "died". Assuming it's a fuse but any enlightenment would be appreciated.
Pressing the start button multiple times, I was able to initiate a game, but no ball appears in the shooter lane.
Thanks in advance
z

Hey that sounds suspiciously like the problem I had. Have you looked at the powerboard for signs of trouble? Did you test the voltages?

I lost my 12v unregulated DC due to a bad bridge rectifier. Lost the flippers, DMD, and the game would turn on and the start button would be flashing but when you pressed the button nothing would happen.

Sorry I’m on the road and I can’t provide more details but that’s where I would start looking. BTW if that is the problem it is an easy and cheap fix.

#3350 5 months ago
Quoted from zhu808:

Heeeeeyyyyy,
Back with a new issue!
Was playing a game and had both flippers activated while magnet was grabbing draining ball... Magnet, flippers and start button "died". Assuming it's a fuse but any enlightenment would be appreciated.
Pressing the start button multiple times, I was able to initiate a game, but no ball appears in the shooter lane.
Thanks in advance
z

Yeah this is gonna need a bit more investigating. A fuse probably blew but you always have to ask yourself, why?

It does sound like a power driver board issue. You could check for a blown fuse and replace it just to see if it was a one-off, but it may happen again.

Like AAAV8R suggested I would check the 12V to see if it's stable.

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