I fully understand wanting to be done, and enjoy your game as soon as possible!

The solvents in the clear make up 40 to 50% of its volume.

As the solvents dry out over a period of 2 to 3 months the clear gets much thinner and shrinks down very tight.

It becomes rock hard and super durable when fully cured.

All restorers that clear playfields wait 6 to 8 weeks before assembling.
This will equate to 10-12 weeks before the game has a ball rolled on it.

Ron Kruzman advises 3 months to a year before re-assembly.

This avoids halo's, pooling and ghosting of inserts.

Early assembly and game play can also create heavy ball dents known as cratering in the clear that wont shrink out.

So, its better to wait than to not.

Its important to note that a playfield can be too glossy or too smooth.

this makes the ball slide instead of rolling.

It also makes it hard for the wax to adhere to.

So, I generally roughen up the playfield with 3500-4000 grit and wax with blitx or P21S silver.

then buff to a gloss.

If in the garage a house-fly cant climb the clearcoat and slips and falls off, its too smooth.

I have had this happen and sure enough, game-play was adversely affected.

Thanks, yeah, I won't be waiting... it's just not an option in my plans. I'm up to 2000 grit right now, will go up to 4000 and continue with some scratch cutting compound and then wax. I've been looking closely at my JP playfield and I can't see anything that was detrimental from the quick assembly. Maybe it will come down the road, maybe I can't see it but I just don't have the option of having it sit around for another 2 months. The amount of sq/ft that is actually contacted by anything with any force is so tiny and are already dimpled so I'm not that concerned. A ball probably won't roll on it for another 3-4 weeks anyhow (doing WOZ 2.0 this weekend). I'm sure the high end restorers have their reasons and people pay for it but this game won't be immaculate, just a decent home restore. Cabinet has dings in it, doing the dress up parts myself, etc.

I'll see if I can dig up a fly to test with.

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Needs to be coming out of a hat.....
Beautiful game !

Nice Doctor Who !

You ignored the CC!

The lit shooter rod looks great on the TOM.

Cleaning the rabbit poop out of the game must be a challenge though lol

No actually they are like mini pinball's. I just flip them out of the way.

Hi everybody in the club!
I own a TOM since 2 weeks (finally!), in really nice condition with minor issues, and this forum is over the top.
Still on page 23 of this thread, reading all posts )
So first of all, thank you a lot!

I still have the noisy transformator problem and the righest ramp (with the gate) really hard to reach, but I’m still at page 23^^
I didn’t find anything about this:
Is there a way to know the clock time during the game? I mean without advance it.

Thank you

While replacing my TOM lights with LED's I noticed these two wires disconnected from the right-side stand-up target (just to the right of the center ramp). Can anyone please send me a picture so I make sure and solder these back to the right position? Thanks!

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Looking for some ramp help. On my TOM the ball keeps hitting the plastic and coming off the ramp. I cannot seem to figure out how to adjust the ramp. Thoughts?

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There is no "adjustment" that I know of. The only adjustment would be to bend the ramp, move the plastic or trim the plastic. The question I would have is when did this start and what changed to make it start? I don't have my game together or I'd look at that specific placement. If you remove that plastic is all well?

I just picked up the machine. So I am not sure. If I remove the plastic it is well...very perplexed on this one.

Ah interesting. Wish I had my game together to look at the plastic/ramp interaction. Maybe the metal ramp just got tweaked. Doubt it's the plastic's fault but who knows. If you take the ramp out (not too big of a deal) you can probably bend it back pretty easily.

A few pics , let me know if you need more.

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Found a professional painter guy near me, here a preview of the next sorceress mods (the support base still not installed).
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Thank you. May I ask that you take a picture with the ball on the rail next to that piece of plastic? And another of the rail screws as it mounts on the side? Seems there are 3 screws on the top of the play field and 2 nuts on the bottom of the playfield.

I would like to see if I need to bend the wire ramp.

Thanks for doing that , it is very appreciated.

Rob

I will take you some pictures later this afternoon after I get back from my errands.

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Oh good pics, didn't think about looking at the other ramp mounts. Maybe those are not aligned properly.

New version available on my shop.
Also with the new dock you can connect the Sorceress after the dock has already been fixed on the playfield.

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get some mirror blades on that thing already .

Looking for some details on the GI wiring bundles in the back left corner. Some better pics of the area might help or if someone can just confirm my assumptions please.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tom-gi-lighting-bundle-connections#post-5692062

They look like they attach to the pop bumper globes that you feed down through the pop bumper bodies. They are flat thin metal strips that comes off the light sockets

Ahh!! Well, on mine (before I dissasembled) I think the sockets had been replaced because all that was left of the metal strip was a small piece stapled to the playfield. I'm guessing they were cut and replaced some time ago.

So they are both a joint and power for the pop GI it seems.

You can buy new style holders with black leads.They're similar if not the same found in spotlights . I've installed them, the down point is they don't seat as well inside the pop bumper. They tend to lean towards one side. Sort of fix is the cable tie the leads again the globe holder to stabilize it a little.

.

someone turned me onto this socket recently...keeps the bulb rock solid https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5020-00

Yeah, those are the only sockets I use. We use them for our mods as well. I don't know why they aren't more prevalent.

Now we're talking. I wish I'd seen these before and doubly wish they were available in oz.

Here's another option you can use after the fact: https://www.pinballlife.com/pop-bumper-lamp-centering-ring.html

Has anyone experienced an issue with the transition from the right ramp to wireform catwalk (right before the spirit ring)? Maybe 20% of the time for me, the ball shoots off the ramp, immediately falls off the catwalk and goes straight down the middle. Or if yours is working beautifully, I'd be grateful to see close-up pics of the area for comparison. I might need to adjust something but don't want to interfere with the spirit ring picking up the ball. Thx

^^^ Pics.

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I Got my sorceress mod today. I said it was too pricey but it's the wife's machine and she wanted it so what are you going to do.

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Thanks Captainhook - I'll see if I can piece together where mine is going wrong

Think I got it fixed... bad switch adjustment causing the ball to bounce off and become misaligned with the wireform at certain speeds. Thanks again.

Can anyone tell me if this guide goes in the game somewhere? lol... I have it left over and I don't know if it snuck in my parts by accident or if I Missed where it goes. I did notice that balls are landing in the vanish hole way too often if a hit the outer loop from the right but I don't see how this guide would have been placed if it was supposed to be back there.

About 1"x1"

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I can't see where this would go either. I can't see it in my photo during a restore.

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Same, thanks. It could very well have just snuck in, I've had the game apart for a year so stuff got moved around.

I'm thrilled to say this weekend i'll be back in the club! After almost 12 years in the hobby, this is the only game I regretted selling and I knew I made a mistake the minute it left the house. The old one was perfect, the one is less than perfect but I can fix that! I've got a playfield coming and I can slowly get replacement parts while I play it until I can stop long enough to to do the swap.

There is a service bulletin where you place a similar ball guide beneath the center ramp, just right of the trunk, could it be bought for that purpose but never mounted? I had to drill two holes for it myself as they werent in my pf.

Hey friends - I’m a member of the club as of today!
Game is awesome, but I’m having two small issues
1)the ball doesn’t always trigger when it enters the trough for a drain. It’s intermittent, I’d say 90% of the time it works.
2) there is a slight delay betwern releasing the right flipper button and the flipper returning. Left flipper it happens right away.

Gonna poke around tonight but just wondering if these issues are common with this machine?

This is my most modern machine and first with opto flipper buttons etc.

Thanks!!

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I can find a pic of the shop job I did on mine recently, but I think that’s either for the “secret ball lock” in the back of the trunk or the area right behind where the vanish happens.

Oh nice, thanks! I'll look for that SB.

I don't see it in any of my before photos. I am not even 100% it came from this game, although it'd be weird to just be laying around. I did shop a JP and Cyclone so who knows. It could have been in the goodie bag I got with the game.

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Midnight Madness ... how the heck do I keep the ball from just STDM drain after the first capture? Bastard trunk. Maybe related, it seems like my gearbox has a lot of slop in it. I can rotate the trunk about 5 degrees without moving the motor. I think if this wasn't an issue the trunk might sit at the right orientation to not release the ball STDM.

Trunk - On another note, has anyone silenced or deadened the trunk? We have a lot of issues with the ball popping out with a good shot so I started adding some thin foam inside. Looks like there are just two places, top collar on the center post and bottom of the basin right at the front. But now it got my interested in doing more. I think I'm gonna pull it and spray it with some black leak seal to deaden the ball, black it out and make it quiet.

Trap door. I think maybe the cliffy is causing an issue, I need to take some slow mo video but quite often it seems like the cliffy launches the ball and then it hits the clear deflector on top of the ramp and rejects it or it bounces off in another direction out of the ramp. It also appears that the front left post on the right ramp is too far behind the ball guide and it hits that end of the guide over and over (Balls look like crap after a handful of games). Aside from undoing all my work and grinding this down, any other fixes? Was thinking of looking for larger post rubber but I recall these being the largest.

Mate I'll get out all my resto pix and make sure this piece wasn't part of the pf

I just joined the club and loving the game. I have this mod on the game but the positive lead has a clip and it’s not plugged in anywhere. Does anyone have an idea of what this mod is and where to plug the positive lead at?

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