The condoms are ok but I put in colored incandescent 555 bulbs in there and it looks great. Also under the upper left magnet that yanks the ball off the ramp. I put a red one in there. I like it better than the condoms.

I’m having a weird problem with my trunk. Every time I turn the game on I have a trunk issue andnhave to go to trunk test. Sometimes it won’t rotaye other times it’s completely fine. Usually the first few games it also will not start multiball. I have the Leon board and the metal interrupter in it. Not really sure where to even start on this one. Anyone ever have issues like this?

Maybe try adjusting your trunk eddy board

But would that affect the way the trunk is spinning or lack of spinning?

Yeah, lack of spinning

Might have to pull apart the gearbox, clean and grease it.

It’s weord because sometimes it will work perfectly fine, other times it won’t work at all.

Sticky, gummy gearbox will do that.

Well I’ll try that. Thanks for the help and suggestions!

Hello, in my TOM, when the ball goes into the vanish kick out, it ejects, hits the gate and goes back into the vanish kick out. Over and over. The gate seems loose enough for the ball to pass through. Could the eject rod not being firing the ball out strong enough? Any clue how to fix this? Everything looks normal from what I can tell. Here are some pics. Does the eject hole look right? Thank you!

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i had to raise the artwork plastic back there a little bit with some clear washers to help this from happening on mine. the ball is probably hitting something; doubt it's the upkicker.

Thank you. I tried that. Still not ejecting well. It seems like it’s shooting more upward than to the side. I’m thinking about repositioning kickout assembly so it shoots the ball more to the side than straight up, but I want to hear from others first. Thank you all.

Did this start happening recently, or did you acquire the game like this? I often find the solution thinking about what can possibly change.

It slowly started getting worse and worse. It used to eject after a couple tries. Now it can’t eject all the way out of the hole even with multiple tries.

so i put theater of magic out on location. I thought I had my trunk issues fixed. boy was I wrong. I lost the 12v line. I was able to swap out a power driver bard from another game and I can't believe how much better the game is playing. the 12v line must have been going out for a while. Now I have to rebuild my original board!

like it's getting weaker over time? time for a new coil sleeve or resolder job maybe?

Joined the TOM club.

Happy to own this machine!

Did a topside tear down. Replaced all coil sleeves. Rebuilt flippers and pops. Dealing with some small issues now. For some reason balls are ejected into shooter lane without even pressing the start button??

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In switch test:

Check shooter lane switch.
Check trough optos.

Count the balls.

Hi guy's I just joined the club. I'll pick up the machine in 2 days and I'm super excited. Looking forward to reading all the posts in this club to find out about the game.

Working on my restoration and populating the new (Mirco) playfield with T-nuts. I am concerned with the T-nut on top of the playfield next to the trunk. The original playfield has a deep recession from where the T-nut was drawn into it, allowing it to sit fairly flush with the playfield...

Seems like it would be fairly easy to do on a non clearcoated original playfield but my concern is trying to get the new nut to sit flush without destroying the clear around it. I have the Kruzman kit to remove clear from post holes and such but not sure how to remove the clear from this area and have it look good as well....

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It *looks* to me like you may want to use something like a forstner bit to create a recess the diameter of the t-nut. That would let the nut sit flush and would prevent the clear from cracking/indenting. Probably only need to drill in like a mm or two. I have no experience doing this but we're dealing with cracking/dimpling issues on sling posts on JJPOTC right now which are mirco playfields and one suggestion was that the playfields should have been drilled for the posts.

Has anyone here painted their cabinet trim and/or habit trails/wireforms? I'm not sure I want to invest the money in to PC or plating, at least not for the cabinet hardware (might do the plating on the wireforms). I might just leave them silver, easiest... but I have some paint coming in that I was considering using to paint the lockdown, side rails & legs. I'd clear it with 2X Spraymax so with the right prep I would think it'd adhere pretty good.

Man that’s a shit design on Bally’s part. What does it hold on? Can it be skipped?

Paint rarely ever looks right/good in my opinion. The brass/gold metallic and shiny paint is usually a little more difficult to get a good finish on it that holds up or looks completely even. You need to also apply automotive grade (really hard) clear coat. I went through a couple attempts to paint over a spare plunger end (the plastic ball) to make it usable and "gold" looking. I bought one originally, and they had issues with swirls (shows as gray swirls on gold), so I removed it and then tried a few different paints. In the end I used a plastic primer and some metallic gold spray and took it super slow. I had automotive clear coat that I sprayed and lightly baked on to it. It doesn't show any wear, but it still isn't perfect. I can't imagine what that would look like on a long flat surface like side rails or a lockdown where any imperfection would stand out more.

So you can certainly give it a shot, but be ready with a backup plan if it doesn't turn out right. Even spraying primer made for metal is tricky to get to stick without at least scuffing the surface, so that could be permanent scuffs on your long metal pieces if it doesn't work out, and can be really hard on things like the wireforms to get all of it.

I am sure that people have used "regular" paint (non-metallic) on the cabinet metal, but I am not sure how many try a shiny finish vs. a color. I've seem some do a "gold paint" that wasn't metallic, and it looked like butterscotch paint, not a shiny metal, so maybe that is why it worked...

Do you have a spare piece of metal that you can test? That would save you from possibly messing up one of the actual legs, lockdown, or side rails...

Thanks. The 2X is a 2-part auto clear in a can. You mix it when you are ready to use it, short life after that. Same as any 2-part I believe.

I ordered like 10 different golds. I actually want a more muted, brassy tone to the cabinet parts I think, which may make the paint the right look for me. I think the bright gold just doesn't look quite right on the game. I don't mind testing on some spare metal, wish I kept some old legs around. I fear the worst is going to be getting a good adhesion to any coated metal and most people say to strip that... and there are many ways to strip nickel plating but not sure what the wireforms are (are they actually brass plated). But that gets in to a whole other spider web of tools and chemicals and crap. I have a bench grinder with a wire wheel and buffing wheel now so I can probably do some scuffing or cleaning of most surfaces. Maybe some sanding. I figure worst case, I spent some money and time doing it and it doesn't come out so I still take it to get PC.

Maybe I'll ask the PC place how much to just strip and prep the parts. That could get me 70% of the way there. 2X also sells an automotive primer which probably has way better adhesion than 1-part cans. Shit, maybe I should just get in to automotive paints now, lol.

PS - just contacted a seller of Spray Max custom colors in a can (so automotive 2-part paint in a can). Hopefully I can order a color that suits me and use the Spray Max primer/etcher along with some surface prep. I am thinking automotive paint all around should be pretty tough. I am unsure about the habit trails, I still may just go plated on those to not have to worry, and I think they look better brass.

I'm gonna try to go for this look, if anyone knows what it is: https://www.coinoppartsetc.com/sites/default/files/styles/668x598/public/products/THEATRE%20OF%20MAGIC%20Pinball%20Machine%20Game%20by%20BALLY%20-%20THAT%20MAGIC%20TOUCH%20-%20LED%20UPGRADE%20%20%282%29.JPG?itok=GS-vafuP

Paint wont hold up at all. Powdercoat or plating.

plate the wireforms, siderails and legs brass/gold.

Find a plater near you or send them to hod rod arcades. He might have them in stock.

Splatter paint the coin door satin black, replace the inserts etc.

2 choices here.

dremel off the clear in that area.
Use the forstner bit to make a new recess coat it with CA glue when done.

or

Or clamp or tape a drill guide onto the area and dremel out the area until t-nut sits flush.

Cut around the edge with an exacto knife first to keep the clear from chipping.

If you are worried about the cut edge of the clearcoat, carefully apply thin CA glue around the t-nut after its tightened down or before to put in the t-nut after the glue has dried.
Use a syringe it only takes the tiniest amount.

Even with an automotive clear on it? I mean, if that kind of clear holds up on the playfield, why not on cabinet parts?

There is an online pinball plater who has the TOM wireforms all done, $175. I'd probably do that if I end up painting the cabinet parts. I am worried PC won't hold up on the habit trails, my RR WOZ has wear on the PC wireforms.

It has to do the the thin edge where the ball meet the rounded wire.

Lots of wear in exacty the same area over and over again on the wire.

It just peels paint right off.

Ah, I meant more on the cabinet. For the wireforms I am pretty sure I am going to get the plated ones. The only place I can see really being an issue is the lockbar where you hit it with jeans, rings or whatever and around the siderails/buttons. But I would think with an auto clear, a few coats, should be more than sufficient to protect for home use. Paints should arrive any day, just need to do some prep work and I am going to paint the lockbar underside with a few of the colors to see what looks best. Then I'll do the lockbar, legs, hinges, siderails and shooter housing in paint and clear. I'll redo the door in the speckled black gloss. I have to do the door anyhow because the coin mechs are all lira, reimport. Feeling pretty confident about this now that I just finished the auto clear on a playfield and it's tough. I did a motorcycle tank too, the only thing that would prevent gas from eating it up. Got some nice new ramps sitting here, got a vibrating tumbler for the metal work (doing my JP now, looks awesome) and just have to apply decals to the playfield. I am sort of considering clearing it now after the decals instead of the protector. I'm about 2/3 of the way there (just a bit more to remove from the playfield, as long as I can unplug all of the harnesses easy, JP was not easily possible, I can take it outside and spray it as is without removing any of the under playfield structures. Dang.. I might just do that now. I am afraid I'll be unhappy with the newton rings that the protectors seem to have. I think the clear would help to level out the decal edges too.

*Edit - I think this might be the color, ordering now. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7274830-Stops-Metallic-Antique/dp/B0009XB3HM/ref=sr_1_10

Clear & Primer Package ebay.com link: itm
Also got a semi-matte to see how that looks, never used it before ebay.com link: itm and I think it might look good, sort of like Houdini

Also gonna clear the coin door with the Spray Max, it will be bulletproof.

Several games were clearcoated over the brass lockdown bar and siderail plating to keep it from tarnishing.

It looks amazing when brand new.

It didn't hold up.

I think it was the lack of primer under the paint.

Not even in a HUO environment.

Lots if chips and scratches from rings and watchbands etc.

Powdercoat is the way to go these days.

Thanks

I sort of find that hard to believe still. Almost, if not all, of the "bargain" restores or painting I've seen use regular 1-part spray paint as clear. I know for sure that won't hold up. But the auto 2-part clear that is used on a playfield seems like it surely would stand up way better. Along with a 2-part epoxy etching primer I would think it would be pretty good results. I mean, this is what I painted my motorcycle gas tank with and it gets zippers and such rubbed up against it, not a scratch on it. Worst case, I take it to get PC if it doesn't work out. I've also read the SprayMax website and they specifically say their primers work over coated materials (like zinc and galvanized) so it makes me even more apt to try it.

Let's also mention I just bought a RR WOZ and the wireforms that were powdercoated ruby red have worn sections down to metal where the ball hits (coming out of the castle playfield, etc). So PC surely isn't the end all, be all for wireforms at least. But that worries me for the other items, I mean there are chips in the siderails and such where the PC has been nicked. I don't see a ton of difference there between that and my JP which had spray painted (no clear) siderails for just some shit touchups I did.

Chris, pinball plating or whatever, does not have the TOM wireforms in stock (I thought he did) so he said 1-2 months. That's ridiculous, so I am contacting another plating place that was recommended. I think for the wireforms it makes sense to get brass plated and clear coated. I'll do the 2x Spraymax on those too if the plater doesn't do it.

I wholly agree powder coating is not the end all that people suggest. It is pretty durable though. But it chips easy.

Chris at HEP, sands the powdercoat and clears over it. This would be the best of both worlds.

Oddly, plating doesn't wear well either.

I had my ToM wireforms done 10 years ago and they are due for another plating. It has about 15000 plays on it.

I didnt clear over them but I do wax them.

Waxing really helps cut down the wear.

My WOZ has little wear on the wireforms after 9000 plays, but you can see some wear, not through to the metal though.

That's to be expected.

I do wax them though with P21S.

Changing balls frequently has really made the biggest difference in wear to my games.

And frequent waxing.

Cool, thanks. I need to be more fastidious with the waxing and ball changes. Plater says he does a top clear coat. I am working on UV varnish coating to repair the WOZ worn powder coat.

Trying to help a local guy out with his ToM. Haven't looked at the game yet but he's telling me that "Power shuts off sometimes and that it ejects all balls into trough". Figured I post here to see if folks with ToM ever experienced these issues. Looking for possible things to check!

WPC games have an issue with resets, mostly due to low 5v power. Not sure if that could cause the trough issue but if it resets when does it shoot the balls out of the trough?

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

Has anyone experienced ghosting of the leds using the 1.3x revision, or has it been patched like the later WPC95 games? Thanks in advance.

I have LEDS and am running 1.3x and have had no issues. No ghosting or flicker, they look fantastic

Looking for someone who can burn the 1.3 revision that was posted by soren (I assume this is the one referenced two posts up).

Anyone currently playing with it?

Hey soren I'm curious if you ever looked any farther into the Tiger Saw control change?

No plans, sorry. The dilemma is, that wise thoughts tells me, it is mandatory to test this, not only on a real game, but a game with the mod installed. Anything involving running solenoids (well playfield drivers) is ballsy, if not stupid, to not test on the real deal. Only a test on real mechnics can verify that a ported implementation is working exactly as the 1.4H. Or better. Mechanics having a flywheel effect and stuff.

Makes sense to me. May I ask what coding environment you use when doing your modifications? It sounds like a fair amount of disassembly.

Just in case someone is looking. Beautiful game nicely restored with many mods. Need space so seeing if there is any interest.

Machine - For Sale

Theatre of Magic Archived

Fully shopped/refurbished - “Nicely restored TOM. * Replaced battery holder * Adjusted outlane eddy switches * Replaced service switch (escape button not working) * Replaced the driver board. * Replaced ...”

2019-06-06

Newburgh, IN

mbelofsky

7,000 (Firm)

Archived after: 8 days

Viewed: 804 times

Status: Not sold: Decided to keep game

Can someone help me with a photo of proper target wiring for the ramp targets...thanks

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Here's what I've got

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You Da' man Harry, thanks buddy