I don't believe a 10A fuse is used anywhere, but I could be wrong. I think the 3A SB sounds right.

Isn't the main fuse for the game an 8A fuse? If it is then someone blew that fuse a lot and rather than fix the reason for it blowing, they just put a bigger fuse in there. It is possible they put that one in because they didn't have the correct fuse. Manual says 3A SB, that's what I would go with.

10 amps is way too over-amped for that circuit!

I would stick to the 3 amp slow blo that is listed in the manual or a 4 amp, if thats all you can find.

Ceramic appliance fuses last longer than the glass ones if you can get those, they have a better duty cycle.

If the game is blowing the proper fuses, you have to investigate.

I had this blow also. It is 3amp. Now i posted what worked for me but am not sure if this is the solution but now my game has not failed in many plays.

The trunk eddy and my right hand lane Eddy would remain on (led stays lit) when they are activated. They should turn off when the ball rolls away from them. I believe either or both magnets in my case where probably triggered and remained on blowing the fuse. Fuse always blew during multiball. So you need to adjust the eddy switches so the led lights when the ball passed them and turns off when gone. Took me awhile to notice this as the eddys would reset when the game is switched off. Fine tune these and then let us know the result. Adjustment is with a small screw driver turning the pot adjustment

Do you have no lights, no power anywhere?
Check the main fuse/thermistor in the AC box?

Check all the fuses with a meter set to ohms? Visual inspection is useless.
Check wall current?

How did you fix it? The main fuse?

Anyone ever have problems with the balls getting stuck in the vanish lock?

I’ve recently started having an occasional ball bounce off the right wire ramp when plunging a ball into play, and getting stuck between the wire ramp and the cabinet. Everything in this area is tight, and I’ve never removed/moved anything there either. I’ve launched the ball countless times at different speeds, and I can’t see a pattern to why a couple of percent of shots do this. I’m thinking that maybe the deflector on the top of the shooter ramp has worn, allowing the ball to shoot up the ramp too much instead of being deflected straight down onto it. Before I try anything, I thought I’d ask if anybody else has experienced this. Thanks.

Shooter spring is too strong.
Get a weaker one.
I think it's the brown or blue one? Maybe...

Yes, I keep getting balls getting stuck on the wire gate entrance to the vanish lock, the balls aren't going into the vanish lock they are resting on the wire gate at the entrance, really annoying I can't see what to do to stop it happening.

Seems reasonable. I’ve got a black one in there now. Looking into it, I’m surprised how confusing this subject is and the inconsistencies between parts vendors. The ToM manual just says “10-148”, no suffix, no color. I’ll try changing it to the lightest one that still gets it up the ramp.

The Manual doesn’t specify, but the full parts list says “10-148 spring-shooter black .031”, which is what I have now. There are two lighter ones, so I’ll give them a try anyway.

The day has come to start the resto...I am sending out my wireforms, apron rail, spirit ring and newton ball out for brass plating. I am considering having the entry ramp plated as well, has anybody here done the entry ramp? Does it look good, anybody got any pics? Thanks

I did the entrance ramp. It looks great brass plated, but here is the (potential) long term problem. The ball is being slammed into it a lot. Not sure what he long term plating life will be, so I was advised to apply a layer of mylar to mine to protect it. Now I can see the mylar and its ever so small imperfections in the original ramp create small air pockets under the mylar. Sort of like when you get a tiny spec of dust under a cell phone screen protector.

I still like the look and think that it is way better than the stock steel, but I was scared of wear and covered mine. That was about 3 years ago.

I am half way across the country for a work trip, or I could snap a photo.

I'm following your restore thread too, by the way. You will have a beauty of a TOM when done.

Are you using the correct fuse?

Thanks, I wonder if a clear coat would work better than mylar?

Is this a known problem. I have on occasions shot the ball into the trunk (I think while it was moving? ) and heard the ball hit the bottom of the cabinet. I think in the 15 years I've had it, this has occurred maybe a dozen times. Am I missing something on the game I'm not aware of? The subway ramp entrance on my game does have a decent gap between the side walls and the pf timber

Before I try to heat up and pry this spirit ring magnet off can someone confirm that it just held on with adhesive?

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Yes, its glued in.
Can be difficult to remove, but heating it carefully works.

I actually put mine in the freezer and popped it off!

I suck....

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All you need is a little red Duct Tape and ................ an order to buy a new one!

Yep, order placed...

At least now you can get it out...

What made you want to take it out? Did you get one of the one piece rings??? That was the reason for me removing mine but I wasn't aware that these were still available!

Sending it off with several other parts for brass plating...

Aghhh okay! I bought the solid Spirit Ring that John (I believe) Bitz made. He made them so they were one piece, no welding involved. Looks a lot better then the ones that came with the machine. Also, he had them plated already. Not sure if he still does them or not as I bought mine back n 2012.

When I had my parts brass plated/re-brass plated, they were clear-coated as well.

I guess if I was doing it over, I would just leave it "as is" when it arrived after brass plating/clear coating and if it chipped or got worn, then have it redone and then try mylar or something else.

Check the ohms on the magnet.
Make sure it's not shorted or open first.

Hi guys, looking for a bit of help trying to get my rt slingshot working. Works in coil test. No errors. Checked fuses, grounded all tips with multimeter( none shorted out) , reset all cables, checked switches for contact and broken wires and replaced mpu/ driver board inter connect cable. Thanks in advance for any help

What is the resistor that is used for the Hokus Pokus connector ends?

I join the club again!
there's a lot of work ahead but in the end it's fine

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Why why why???? First thing I saw was that nasty SONIC sticker. Why people!?!!

Best of luck fixing it up. I'm sure it will be great!

Jajajajajajsjajaj.
Thanks!!!!!!

Working on my restoration and getting ready to order a Color DMD...what is the best choice for theatre, LED or LCD?

I like the LCD, but as you know it’s just personal preference. I feel the LED version is too harsh.

I have LED in mine, looks great to me.

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double post

Odd question.

Is there a way to turn off the music only during game play?

Secondly, is there a way to turn off all speaker sound without disconnecting the speakers? (Seems like using the volume controls inside the coin door has a minimum volume of 8, at least on my machine)...

Long story that I can share later.

I’m always in and out of the club. As of now back in, picked up my 5th theater last week.
Good price and decent condition game. Shopping out now. Waiting for parts, ugg.
Got the basement totally rebuilt, all new trunk parts, waiting for trunk and left ramp.
I’ve got a couple cracked plastics but I don’t really want to buy a full set. Anyone have any spares? Right curtain, long purple one lower right side.

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