(Topic ID: 43909)

Theatre of Magic Club


By Nilroc

6 years ago



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  • 2,751 posts
  • 331 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by GreenMachine19
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There are 2751 posts in this topic. You are on page 54 of 56.
#2651 78 days ago
Quoted from ababapanos:

one more thing, today the ΤΟΜ does not open, I looked at the backyard and I saw a fuse burned from the board fliptronic II controller (F903)
This is the reason does not open; I still wanted to ask what type FUSE to put? in the manual he writes 3A SB, but in the burning fuse writes 10A
what is right to do?
thanks again!

I don't believe a 10A fuse is used anywhere, but I could be wrong. I think the 3A SB sounds right.

#2652 78 days ago

This is the fuse

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#2653 78 days ago

Isn't the main fuse for the game an 8A fuse? If it is then someone blew that fuse a lot and rather than fix the reason for it blowing, they just put a bigger fuse in there. It is possible they put that one in because they didn't have the correct fuse. Manual says 3A SB, that's what I would go with.

#2654 78 days ago
Quoted from ababapanos:

one more thing, today the ΤΟΜ does not open, I looked at the backyard and I saw a fuse burned from the board fliptronic II controller (F903)
This is the reason does not open; I still wanted to ask what type FUSE to put? in the manual he writes 3A SB, but in the burning fuse writes 10A
what is right to do?
thanks again!

10 amps is way too over-amped for that circuit!

I would stick to the 3 amp slow blo that is listed in the manual or a 4 amp, if thats all you can find.

Ceramic appliance fuses last longer than the glass ones if you can get those, they have a better duty cycle.

If the game is blowing the proper fuses, you have to investigate.

#2655 78 days ago

thank you for the answers,
the other I want to ask is, it's normal that for a one fuse in the fliptronic board does not open the pinball?

#2656 77 days ago
Quoted from ababapanos:

one more thing, today the ΤΟΜ does not open, I looked at the backyard and I saw a fuse burned from the board fliptronic II controller (F903)
This is the reason does not open; I still wanted to ask what type FUSE to put? in the manual he writes 3A SB, but in the burning fuse writes 10A
what is right to do?
thanks again!

I had this blow also. It is 3amp. Now i posted what worked for me but am not sure if this is the solution but now my game has not failed in many plays.

The trunk eddy and my right hand lane Eddy would remain on (led stays lit) when they are activated. They should turn off when the ball rolls away from them. I believe either or both magnets in my case where probably triggered and remained on blowing the fuse. Fuse always blew during multiball. So you need to adjust the eddy switches so the led lights when the ball passed them and turns off when gone. Took me awhile to notice this as the eddys would reset when the game is switched off. Fine tune these and then let us know the result. Adjustment is with a small screw driver turning the pot adjustment

#2657 77 days ago

I replace the fuse with new ceramic fuse 3A , but the machine not open.

the other I see them ok. what to do?

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#2658 77 days ago
Quoted from ababapanos:

I replace the fuse with new ceramic fuse 3A , but the machine not open.
the other I see them ok. what to do?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Do you have no lights, no power anywhere?
Check the main fuse/thermistor in the AC box?

Check all the fuses with a meter set to ohms? Visual inspection is useless.
Check wall current?

#2659 77 days ago

Thank you! all ok now. Fix it!

#2660 76 days ago

How did you fix it? The main fuse?

#2661 76 days ago

the problem was finally on the power cable has been disconnected internally

1 week later
#2662 68 days ago

Anyone ever have problems with the balls getting stuck in the vanish lock?

#2663 68 days ago

I’ve recently started having an occasional ball bounce off the right wire ramp when plunging a ball into play, and getting stuck between the wire ramp and the cabinet. Everything in this area is tight, and I’ve never removed/moved anything there either. I’ve launched the ball countless times at different speeds, and I can’t see a pattern to why a couple of percent of shots do this. I’m thinking that maybe the deflector on the top of the shooter ramp has worn, allowing the ball to shoot up the ramp too much instead of being deflected straight down onto it. Before I try anything, I thought I’d ask if anybody else has experienced this. Thanks.

#2664 68 days ago
Quoted from Larrymc:

I’ve recently started having an occasional ball bounce off the right wire ramp when plunging a ball into play, and getting stuck between the wire ramp and the cabinet. Everything in this area is tight, and I’ve never removed/moved anything there either. I’ve launched the ball countless times at different speeds, and I can’t see a pattern to why a couple of percent of shots do this. I’m thinking that maybe the deflector on the top of the shooter ramp has worn, allowing the ball to shoot up the ramp too much instead of being deflected straight down onto it. Before I try anything, I thought I’d ask if anybody else has experienced this. Thanks.

Shooter spring is too strong.
Get a weaker one.
I think it's the brown or blue one? Maybe...

#2665 68 days ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Anyone ever have problems with the balls getting stuck in the vanish lock?

Yes, I keep getting balls getting stuck on the wire gate entrance to the vanish lock, the balls aren't going into the vanish lock they are resting on the wire gate at the entrance, really annoying I can't see what to do to stop it happening.

#2666 68 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Shooter spring is too strong.
Get a weaker one.
I think it's the brown or blue one? Maybe...

Seems reasonable. I’ve got a black one in there now. Looking into it, I’m surprised how confusing this subject is and the inconsistencies between parts vendors. The ToM manual just says “10-148”, no suffix, no color. I’ll try changing it to the lightest one that still gets it up the ramp.

#2667 68 days ago
Quoted from Larrymc:

Seems reasonable. I’ve got a black one in there now. Looking into it, I’m surprised how confusing this subject is and the inconsistencies between parts vendors. The ToM manual just says “10-148”, no suffix, no color. I’ll try changing it to the lightest one that still gets it up the ramp.

The Manual doesn’t specify, but the full parts list says “10-148 spring-shooter black .031”, which is what I have now. There are two lighter ones, so I’ll give them a try anyway.

#2668 67 days ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Preparing for a complete resto, I have... a mirco playfield, next gen decals, new cabinet, new playfied rails, new side rails, new lockdown reciever, new legs with levelers and bolts, new speaker panel, new plunger and housing, new translite trim, new glass, new sleeves, new rubbers, replated wireforms, new trunk, ..and this came yesterday...
[quoted image]
I guess at this point I need to buy the ramps and plastics, I have not done it yet because I cant see any damage on the old ones but Im sure when I take it apart I will find some...

The day has come to start the resto...I am sending out my wireforms, apron rail, spirit ring and newton ball out for brass plating. I am considering having the entry ramp plated as well, has anybody here done the entry ramp? Does it look good, anybody got any pics? Thanks

#2669 67 days ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

The day has come to start the resto...I am sending out my wireforms, apron rail, spirit ring and newton ball out for brass plating. I am considering having the entry ramp plated as well, has anybody here done the entry ramp? Does it look good, anybody got any pics? Thanks

I did the entrance ramp. It looks great brass plated, but here is the (potential) long term problem. The ball is being slammed into it a lot. Not sure what he long term plating life will be, so I was advised to apply a layer of mylar to mine to protect it. Now I can see the mylar and its ever so small imperfections in the original ramp create small air pockets under the mylar. Sort of like when you get a tiny spec of dust under a cell phone screen protector.

I still like the look and think that it is way better than the stock steel, but I was scared of wear and covered mine. That was about 3 years ago.

I am half way across the country for a work trip, or I could snap a photo.

I'm following your restore thread too, by the way. You will have a beauty of a TOM when done.

#2670 66 days ago

One specific fuse blows many times. I play a game and then the fuse blows, I replace it again and then the fuse blows. What could be the solution?

#2671 66 days ago

Are you using the correct fuse?

#2672 66 days ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I did the entrance ramp. It looks great brass plated, but here is the (potential) long term problem. The ball is being slammed into it a lot. Not sure what he long term plating life will be, so I was advised to apply a layer of mylar to mine to protect it. Now I can see the mylar and its ever so small imperfections in the original ramp create small air pockets under the mylar. Sort of like when you get a tiny spec of dust under a cell phone screen protector.
I still like the look and think that it is way better than the stock steel, but I was scared of wear and covered mine. That was about 3 years ago.
I am half way across the country for a work trip, or I could snap a photo.
I'm following your restore thread too, by the way. You will have a beauty of a TOM when done.

Thanks, I wonder if a clear coat would work better than mylar?

#2673 66 days ago

Yes , I use the correct fuse.

#2674 66 days ago

Is this a known problem. I have on occasions shot the ball into the trunk (I think while it was moving? ) and heard the ball hit the bottom of the cabinet. I think in the 15 years I've had it, this has occurred maybe a dozen times. Am I missing something on the game I'm not aware of? The subway ramp entrance on my game does have a decent gap between the side walls and the pf timber

#2675 66 days ago

Before I try to heat up and pry this spirit ring magnet off can someone confirm that it just held on with adhesive?

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#2676 66 days ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Before I try to heat up and pry this spirit ring magnet off can someone confirm that it just held on with adhesive?
[quoted image]

Yes, its glued in.
Can be difficult to remove, but heating it carefully works.

#2677 66 days ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Before I try to heat up and pry this spirit ring magnet off can someone confirm that it just held on with adhesive?
[quoted image]

I actually put mine in the freezer and popped it off!

#2678 66 days ago

I suck....

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#2679 66 days ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

I suck....
[quoted image]

#2680 66 days ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

I suck....
[quoted image]

All you need is a little red Duct Tape and ................ an order to buy a new one!

#2681 66 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

All you need is a little red Duct Tape and ................ an order to buy a new one!

Yep, order placed...

#2682 66 days ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

I suck....
[quoted image]

At least now you can get it out...

#2683 65 days ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Yep, order placed...

What made you want to take it out? Did you get one of the one piece rings??? That was the reason for me removing mine but I wasn't aware that these were still available!

#2684 65 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

What made you want to take it out? Did you get one of the one piece rings??? That was the reason for me removing mine but I wasn't aware that these were still available!

Sending it off with several other parts for brass plating...

#2685 65 days ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Sending it off with several other parts for brass plating...

Aghhh okay! I bought the solid Spirit Ring that John (I believe) Bitz made. He made them so they were one piece, no welding involved. Looks a lot better then the ones that came with the machine. Also, he had them plated already. Not sure if he still does them or not as I bought mine back n 2012.

#2686 65 days ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Thanks, I wonder if a clear coat would work better than mylar?

When I had my parts brass plated/re-brass plated, they were clear-coated as well.

I guess if I was doing it over, I would just leave it "as is" when it arrived after brass plating/clear coating and if it chipped or got worn, then have it redone and then try mylar or something else.

#2687 65 days ago
Quoted from ababapanos:

One specific fuse blows many times. I play a game and then the fuse blows, I replace it again and then the fuse blows. What could be the solution?

hi
Disconnected the trunk magnet and now plays good , not blows fuse...

Now what do I do? the problem is the magnet; to buy new magnet ? or on the board;

#2688 64 days ago
Quoted from ababapanos:

hi
Disconnected the trunk magnet and now plays good , not blows fuse...
Now what do I do? the problem is the magnet; to buy new magnet ? or on the board;

Check the ohms on the magnet.
Make sure it's not shorted or open first.

#2689 61 days ago

Hi guys, looking for a bit of help trying to get my rt slingshot working. Works in coil test. No errors. Checked fuses, grounded all tips with multimeter( none shorted out) , reset all cables, checked switches for contact and broken wires and replaced mpu/ driver board inter connect cable. Thanks in advance for any help

#2690 60 days ago

What is the resistor that is used for the Hokus Pokus connector ends?

#2691 53 days ago

I join the club again!
there's a lot of work ahead but in the end it's fine

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#2692 53 days ago

Why why why???? First thing I saw was that nasty SONIC sticker. Why people!?!!

Best of luck fixing it up. I'm sure it will be great!

#2693 53 days ago

Jajajajajajsjajaj.
Thanks!!!!!!

#2694 49 days ago

Working on my restoration and getting ready to order a Color DMD...what is the best choice for theatre, LED or LCD?

#2695 49 days ago

I like the LCD, but as you know it’s just personal preference. I feel the LED version is too harsh.

#2696 49 days ago

I have LED in mine, looks great to me.

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#2697 49 days ago

double post

1 week later
#2698 37 days ago

Odd question.

Is there a way to turn off the music only during game play?

Secondly, is there a way to turn off all speaker sound without disconnecting the speakers? (Seems like using the volume controls inside the coin door has a minimum volume of 8, at least on my machine)...

Long story that I can share later.

#2699 37 days ago

I’m always in and out of the club. As of now back in, picked up my 5th theater last week.
Good price and decent condition game. Shopping out now. Waiting for parts, ugg.
Got the basement totally rebuilt, all new trunk parts, waiting for trunk and left ramp.
I’ve got a couple cracked plastics but I don’t really want to buy a full set. Anyone have any spares? Right curtain, long purple one lower right side.

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1 week later
#2700 29 days ago

hello from this on the back of the cabine makes a noise like a hum

Can I do something because it bothers me?

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