Hey guys have this problem where fuse 105 (i think) blows when the ramp magnet diverter activates and I use my flippers a lot, usually during multiball. I had a rottendog driver pcb installed. I swapit for my original driver pcb that i had repaired ages ago. The problem seemed resolved. However before trying to repair the rottendog, i checked the fuse ratings. The manual says 3A slow blow. Rottendog had 3A but my original bally pcb has a 5A slow blow. I figure that's why its hanging in there and maybe the rottendog is not faulty. Any ideas where to troubleshoot? Magnet tested 4.5ohms. Btw my game is in pieces waiting on the playfield resto to be completed in a week or two. I have the harness to test though. Any advise would be appreciated and step by step instructions

Just bought Snowyetti’s ToM yesterday and I’m loving the game. I did a factory reset with the playfield set at just over 6.5 and I beat the game tonight!!! What’s a good score for this game? I know beating the game doesn’t necessarily give you the highest score, but I was super pumped when it said 500 MILLION!! I love that this game has an achievable ending. I’m pumped to be in the club.

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Hey guys, I just listed a few more of my Trunk Mod and Magic Wand kits.

Trunk Chain Mod kit comes with chains, three locks, hooks, pictures, and instructions.
Magic Wand Mod kit comes with LED lit magic wand, mounting gear, wiring and instructions.

LINK to TRUNK CHAIN MOD: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1158-3d-mods/01819-theatre-of-magic-trunk-chain-mod
LINK to MAGIC WAND MOD: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1158-3d-mods/01818-theatre-of-magic-wand-mod

Let me know if you have any questions.

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I scanned the thread and didn't see anyone with my issue. Forgive me if I missed it.

When I have two balls locked for multi-ball, the trunk spins back and forth constantly trying to drop the ball in, even if I haven't shot the ball out yet. If I hit the trunk magnet, it works fine, but it thinks there's a ball to grab and drop even when there's not.

I've taken the plastic trunk off and I don't see anything that looks off. I'm very new to pinball repair. Does anyone have any pointers for this?

Thanks

Possibly check the Trunk Eddy sensor in switch test. Use a ball to test the sensor that is under the playfield. I would also check that all of the trunk optos are working correctly in Trunk Test, or if the Trunk opto interrupter is broken, cracked, or misaligned.

I think it turned out to be that the trunk plate was sticking. I cleaned it a bit and wiggled it and it stopped so far.

New, more intricate question. I have a Laseriffic topper that the seller included with the machine. It's missing a part to get it to work.
A friend thinks it is the J117 power connector board and sent it to me, but he isn't 110% sure, and I can't install it without being absolutely certain for fear of blowing out my board.

Can someone with the Laseriffic topper please send me a picture of yours installed on the inside to confirm that it is indeed the J117 and where I need to install it? I'm extremely new at this.

Thanks

I apologize if this is old info to the fellow Theatre community but I was having troubles with my Trunk Eddy board. I could get it adjusted then within a game it would be out of adjustment. Again and again. I went to get a new board and Marco is out of stock and doesn't know when they'll get in new boards. Pinbits has been out of stock of their auto eddy boards for a long time and wasn't responding to phone or email. Desperation kicked in. I figured the likely cause was a bad/worn potentiometer so I found a direct replacement for it, replaced it on the board and it works great now. It was a very easy soldering job on the board.

I thought I'd pass on the link for the part number if anyone else wants to order it and replace. This same pot would work for the outlane eddy's too.

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=3309p-103
https://www.bourns.com/docs/Product-Datasheets/3309.pdf

Part #: Bourns 3309P-1-103

Thanks for the link. I'm starting to have trouble with mine and emailed pinbits as well. The response was literally "they are in process..." Ok, thanks I guess.

surprised you got a response.

Me too, but it was ages ago so they were also lying?

About two months ago they (Pinbits) said they were in final inspection and would be done in a week or two. Crickets since then.

I have a friend here in Bundaberg Qld Australia who is working on releasing a few batches of his new Smart Eddy Board.
SEE BELOW.



TANGLES’ PIN PARTS
TPP-1023
Smart Eddy
Replacement for A-18543-1, A-18543-2, A-18543.1-2 and A-16922

Smart Eddy (TPP-1023) is a re-designed “Eddy” proximity detector compatible with the games:
Theatre of Magic
Star Trek The Next Generation
Scared Stiff
Road Show

The Smart Eddy board has an auto calibration feature that automatically adjusts the detector circuit each time the machine is turned on. This amazing auto calibration feature will free operators and owners from the tyranny of sensor adjustments that plague these games. Aging boards, playfield vibration and shaker motors all conspire to making the original boards a troublesome item.

The TPP-1023 board is a drop in replacement and amazing upgrade to the original boards. Matching the electrical and screw mounting* characteristics of the original parts, this re-designed unit can be installed easily with little fuss.

• Board automatically calibrates detector sensitivity.
• Fits original board mounting holes for A-18543-1, A-18543-2 and A-18543.1-2
• Comes supplied with nylon stand-off mounts.
• Single board compatible with all variants of the compatible game list.
• Designed and manufactured in Australia by Tangles.

As with all Tangles’ parts, these boards have the highest quality parts available. Components have been sourced through Tier 1 suppliers to maintain the highest integrity possible.

See manual for game specific options. http://shedspace.net/TPP/TPP-1023-SmartEddy.pdf

I'm considering buying a #ToM that is being neglected at a local bar. The trunk works but it is banged up (bent magnet on front), the playfield looks like it isn't too worn, but it is really dirty (need to look closer). Lights are out in places, need total shop job and rubbers replaced.

I can post some pictures when I see it next. But I had a few questions.

What's a reasonable price for routed and in serious need of care ToM?

How hard will it be to get the replacement pieces (trunk magnet/plate) etc?

Thanks.

Metal pieces shouldn't be too hard to find, I have all of them for my trunk as spares. Why I don't know????

I would say 5500 for one in need of a lot of work. Really depends on PF, cab, and board condition. I'd check for battery damage if it is indeed neglected at a bar. Is the bar selling? I'd ask them first!

That was about what I was thinking. I was going to suggest $5,000 and see. It's actually owned by a place that outfits bars etc., so they know what the game is, but they seem to be getting out of the pinball game business. What would I need to look for on the board?

Something similar to this would be battery corrosion. It could look a little better or a lot worse, but this gives you a general idea of what the corrosion looks like.

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For 7000 or less you could get a beautiful one. Why pay 5500 for one that is a mess?

Yeah that seems way high. I'd start at 4k.

It would really have to depend on condition. It could be dirty but clean up really nicely. It really depends on what the seller (if there is indeed one) values the game at. If it's not for sale, or they are asking market price for it, then best to pass on it anyways. too many unknowns to drop a solid value on the machine. It was just a starting point.

I talked with the owner of the machine - he's willing to sell it, but he mentioned that they usually look at what other comparable machines have sold for (so I'm guessing their offer will be high). I want to know what a reasonable counter offer should be. I'm willing to walk, but I like the game a lot and am willing to do some work.

Be patient and be willing to walk or hold to your price. A popular old game like this in routed condition, no bells or whistles, no upgrades, and in need of either cosmetic or gameplay fixes, would sell quite quickly around $4000. In mint condition with loads of upgrades TOM sells for $8500 and up. Everything working and game plays great but cosmetically beatup and no upgrades like ColorDMD and it’s worth $5500-$6500 depending on the region you’re in.

That's good, so now you just need to agree on price. Just keep after it.

Years ago an arcade one town over from me had a ToM prototype and I talked to the manager every couple months wanting to buy it but he always refused. This kept up for over a year until I stopped in to ask again and found the game wasn't there any more. I asked the manager and he said they had moved it to another one of their arcades. I quietly asked another employee if he knew where it went and he told me it was in another city about 70 miles away. So I drove there and made that location's manager an offer of $1800 for the ToM proto which he accepted and we loaded up the game and I drove home with it. It was very dirty but cleaned up nicely (I used Q-tips to clean the undersides of all the inserts before installing LEDs). I have since added ColorDMD, 3-D translite, gold powder-coated legs and leg bolts, rabbit-in-a-hat shooter rod, drilled out and backlit the clock in the speaker panel, and replaced the trunk board and trunk motor and opto interrupter. As backup I have a pair of new ramps, a plastic set, extra slingshot plastics, and several spare trunks (including two of the new unbreakable ones).

Anyone ever encounter their Subway Release Coil stop working? Mine did after moving the machine. It's not working in TEST mode either so figured maybe wire came off but to no avail!

Check for a loose connection on one of the back box circuit boards. Refresh the connections on the ribbon cables refresh to connections on all of the cables on all of the boards first.

Use regular troubleshooting procedures following the schematic, then tracing the wire to where it goes or finally ends up.

Mine did the same thing after moving it in to the house. With mine the magnet for the trunk also stopped working and something else which I can’t remember. It turned out to be a fuse for me. Tested all the fuses with a DMM and found one that was bad. Changed it out and all was good.

Thanks for the replies. It was the F901 Fuse on the Fliptronics board (for anyone else that comes across this issue)

Fuses get brittle after a while just like the filaments in light bulbs. a lot of times moving the game or nudging it will cause the filament to fail.

Any idea what this plug goes to? It doesn’t look like it’s used. Maybe the tiger saw motor that was removed from production games?

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My machine only registers 309 plays. I know I bought a really nice condition machine, but is there a way someone could have reset the counter at some point? I just find it hard to believe that a 20 year old game has only been played so little (and I've put in at least 60-70 plays on it myself.)

Everything can be reset.
Probably thats how many plays since the dead batteries were replaced.

Ah, ok. That makes more sense. The newer pinball machines made have more permanent counts right? (inquiring for future buys too)

Also, still seeking someone who has the Laseriffic topper...

Anybody? Can someone go check their TOM and take a look? Thanks.

Nope, everything can be reset to zero.

I also have a 6 pin male connector that is not connected to anything. I am assuming it might have been for a feature that was later not added to the game. Notice my wiring is different colors than yours, but that is not uncommon either!

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Number of plays really shouldn't matter. A machine with 5000 plays should look and feel clean and solid if it was maintained properly throughout its life. I would never pass on a machine because the number of plays was too high. It's always about condition.

Hey guys, looking at a TOM and it has this little board in it:

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Look like it connects over to J125.

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Can anyone tell me what this is all about?

I assume you have the lighted mirror on your game? That's the board that drives the lights in the mirror. . . http://pinballpro.net/shop/theatre-of-magic-motorized-gold-tiger-saw-blade-w-lighted-marquee-mirror/

Ha ha, thanks.

Heads up,

There is a new option for auto adjusting eddy boards on TOM: Smart Eddy Board.

ebay.com link: Pinball Smart Eddy board replacement Eddy board with auto adjust feature

Compatible with the out lane sensors and the trunk.

Even fits the original holes!

Manual: http://shedspace.net/TPP/TPP-1023-SmartEddy.pdf

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Thanks, just ordered 3.

Does Anyone have Lasserific Topper???
PLEASE post pics how it attaches to the power driver board.
Thank You.

Just joined up tonight!

Here it is! To be honest this was the wife’s deal. Turns out she’s a member of a work pinball club behind my back!

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The game is really nice, and has all the mods that I’d assume you’d need reading through your thread here... pinbits auto eddy boards, Leon trunk fix, GLM opto boards and it also has the previously mentioned Tiger Saw mod!

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Anyways, I feel like she did really well for her first solo pin purchase (I was just driving the truck) and it was a hell of a 13th anniversary gift to ourselves! She sure don’t work cheap tho, lol.

Welcome to the club. That’s a great TOM that I owned for a few years and really enjoyed it while I had it.

You had this one specifically?? Small world!

Yes - close friends with the previous owner.

Haha we’re all on here! enjoy it!

Bump. Anyone know how Lasserific topper mounts to power driver board?

I'm not used to having a game this ready to play. Very strange! Thanks again.

Jamie's extremely excited tho, she was playing it last night at midnight, lol.