locktite is made for metal to metal. Of course it should be loctited. A little blue on the screws and it should hold for life.

any tricks to getting more consistent kickouts from the vanish lock? i've been playing around with that all day. getting a decent amount of rejections.

Preparing for a complete resto, I have... a mirco playfield, next gen decals, new cabinet, new playfied rails, new side rails, new lockdown reciever, new legs with levelers and bolts, new speaker panel, new plunger and housing, new translite trim, new glass, new sleeves, new rubbers, replated wireforms, new trunk, ..and this came yesterday...

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I guess at this point I need to buy the ramps and plastics, I have not done it yet because I cant see any damage on the old ones but Im sure when I take it apart I will find some...

Wow, that will surely turn out beautiful. A bit too extreme for me. These things already cost enough as it is.

I am with you on this. I love the hobby and have been in it for 40 years but the cost is making it less enjoyable as the years go on.

I was looking for help under another thread but maybe this is the place to be. I just put my ToM back together. My issue is with the trapdoor for the haunted basement. I does work. It passes the test mode and will open, hold and pop a ball out for multiball or end of the game. However......After hitting the center targets and the center ramp...and lighting the theatre basement....It will not open the trapdoor. My boards are fresh back from coin op cauldron and the manual only discusses wiring. I am stuck because as I said.....The darn thing does work properly at other times. Has anyone else had this issue or have any ideas? I have checked my switches and everything seems ok..etc. I'm stumped. Thanks

check or replace ramp switches maybe.
test the switches with a a ball, they might not activate during a game with a fast moving ball.

The solenoid works in test mode. Make sure your switches are adjusted and activated properly. I had mentioned this in your other thread that you are referring to.

I did see your reply in my other post. I appreciate the help. I did as you suggested. I have the game running with the glass off. I can either roll a ball into the switches or press with my finger to activate the center targets and ramps switches. The switches seem to be ok. They register in the matrix and the register points and light effects. If a diode was faulty would I still be getting those results? I am usually fairly adept at troubleshooting....but the fact it just does not seem to be getting the signal to open is....mystifying. I read some other posts about magnetized brackets and stronger coils....but I don't think I have those issues.

I'll have to test my game when I get home. I'll let you know what I find out. It shouldn't be too difficult, but we all know how these machines can behave.

Just a thought, I think there is a switch or two in the trap door mech itself. I believe one registers for the popper, and one registers if the trapdoor is opened or closed. Can you try to test those switches? It might not think the door is closed.

Well..... after a lil tinkering.... okay alot of tinkering I solved 2 issues tonight. The basement door now works as it should. Thanks to Fatpanda and PinballinReno for the suggestions and help. It ended up being that center ramp switch. Since its buried under the other ramp I could only activate it with a screwdriver..... leading me to believe it was working correctly. However.... as suggested... the ball was skimming right over it and not registering. Presto!

Weak marginal switches are a real annoyance.

Its not recommended to bend the metal actuator tab (but we all do it anyway) to compensate for a weak switch.

You can adjust them for a while, but Its best to replace marginal switches that are buried, the next time you do a tear down for cleaning.
I keep a list of what I think I want to replace inside each game on a small notepad with the part numbers.
It comes in handy when I order parts.

Get original cherry switches if you can. The new cheaper ones (generic Chinese) are ok but I dont see them working as good for the long term.

how can you tell the difference?

Of?

I believe he meant the difference between the cherry switch and generic.

exactly. would marco actually say "cherry" in the item description?

What is a cherry switch?

yes

I tested the new Cliffy protector for the trunk. It does not interfere with the eddy switch. I will post my pictures and directions for installing since the trunk needs to be loosened.

It looks great and has not affected game play.

Once I get the trap protector I will post pictures as well.

Here is the link to the topic I just added:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/theatre-of-magic-cliffy-trunk-protector-installation#post-4295400

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A troubleshooting thread from a fellow ToM owner
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tom-solenoid-fault#post-4315671

special request to Cliff? i don't see that stuff on his website yet. i could use the trap door protector for sure, but would probably get everything. love his stuff.

I just sent an email to Cliff to ask if he was posting this on his site. He also sent me the trap door protector but I did not have a chance this weekend to put on my game. It will stick out past the flap so I may try to carefully cut the edges. This is a carbon fiber protector.

Yes I have a very few available- Trust me I learned my lesson YEARS ago not to make a big batch until we're sure they're good to go so only a few on hand right now. Please always just email me

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you've been holding out on me, cliff .

Yes, yes I have James I'm waiting on Michael to finish up some more tests before I'm comfortable committing

good business model; referring to the quality control.

Cliffy I have sent you a few emails for protectors with no reply! Kurt in OZ.

thats coz you're asleep when I'm awake and vice versa... mate

Here are my photos of installing Cliff's trap door protector. The first few pictures show that when I did restore this game a while ago, I added small pieces of mylar that I took off carefully before installing the protector. Then I tried to see if I could do it without removing the clips for the trap door. I used a role of solder to place in the VUK under the play field to keep the trap door open and out of the way. I then cleaned the area with the alcohol actuator Cliff provided. I then placed the protector around the trap door kind of turning it to get on and over the trap door plate.

He labels which side is "front". I then carefully removed the tape cover paper and lightly placed the protector down and lined it up. I then pressed it down more firmly.

I played a few games to ensure that the ball did not fly up. The ball handled well in game play and when I threw the ball up the ramp by hand. A few times it did not hit squarely and came down behind the spinner (but that was most likely due to operator error). I am glad that the clear protector is on the front of the ramp. I did not see the ball pop up while testing. I felt comfortable playing the game and did not feel a difference. (And I am one to stop play the instant something is not right on my games.)

I also tested shooting into the trap door and the ball shooting out. Everything looks good and feels good. I am happy with the Trunk protector and the trap door protector.

Also, the protector is not really noticeable and does not take away from the look for the game.

Thanks Cliff!

Michael

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hawt.

Fantastic writeup Michael and wow it looks great installed. Love my purple sleeves on ToM too, what a beauty game sir. Thanks for all the help and especially your patience my friend

While its on my mind I REALLY need to thank Perry Dilbeck and his restoration client for loaning me a used ToM playfield- Many of you know there has been a long list of playfields I've been wanting to buy, beg, borrow or steal and ToM has been at the top of my list for almost 20 years. Thanks, Perry!

I suspect I have an issue with my TOM's flipper power, I'm not 100% when it started.

The issue is, when shooting the left orbit it rarely has enough power to make a full loop. This in turn makes it way to easy to hit the multipliers. I've tried changing the coil, I even tested the old one and they were fine. The flipper assembly was rebuilt recently enough anyway to where that shouldn't be an issue.
I played this game a lot when I first got it, and always remember it going the full left loop super easily. Then all the sudden it didn't... but honestly by then I wasn't sure anymore. That is until I watched the bowen tutorial on TOM and my suspicions were confirmed that something indeed wasn't right.

other changes I made were
- changing the code to 1.4, since I installed the tiger saw.
- temporarily installing a rottendog WPC 95 SDB until I get a chance to fix the original. (one of the funnels/ tunnels came out on a crucial piece.)

has anyone had issues with slightly weakened flippers from either of these items.
Think I'm gonna go work on my original board, so I can test it.

I'm really going to be annoyed if it is the rottendog board.
I try to stay with original parts if possible, If it is the rottendog board then I guess I'll need to buy originals and fix those as spares from now on.

I assume you are having a problem with one of the flippers, not both?

Try putting the other flipper switch opto board on the problem side.

You should also test the flipper opto boards in switch test.

Try cleaning the opts on the board with a Qtip and alcohol (with game off).

honestly it seems like both are a bit weaker then I remember. they just don't have the same power they once had when I first got the game with the old crappy coils. I replaced the coils and they were even better. then like I said I started a tear down and rebuild of all the boards and playfield. next thing I know I'm having trouble making full loops. even the right ramp doesn't hit and go around with the same velocity. the opto's are brand new, both the old ones were cracked causing intermittent issues with flippers. So i just replaced everything, now they aren't even 6 months old. After replacing them everything was still good, so I know it's not that.

I'm gonna try to go back to 1.3 real quick today and see what happens.

has anyone tried this custom rom, first I've heard of it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-theatre-of-magic-custom-competition-rom

I found a similar issue due to the adjustment of the EOS gap after a flipper rebuild. Check that.

I saw this in use at INDISC in January. If you’re doing a tournament with expert players it adjusts various game rules to make it harder. In general it worked well. Some possible bugs but no resets that I witnessed. Not something I would install in a home game unless I expected to play pinball champions in my house on a regular basis.

Are the flipper coils hot or getting hot during game play?

I love Rottendog rods but had some strange things happen on a Star Trek Next Gen that were fixed by goin back to a repaired driver board.

I assume working on the boards means working on the flipper board in the back as well. Did you try replacing that with a new Rottendog?

I messed with this yesterday, I was thinking that it wasn't getting the full stroke or something. It shouldn't matter for the power stroke right? only for the hold.
probably need to go into diagnostics and check to make sure they are closing at the right time. I know I still have a lot to learn about the nuances of flipper rebuilding especially with all the different eras.

it's on location, I have a tournament once/twice a month with the local league. Thought it would be interesting to try something different . Especially since TOM is usually a longer playing game. Seems like most tournament players usually prefer tougher games that go fast, as do I. Still nice to have games like WOZ in the collection. Thanks for the info.

nope the flipper coils aren't getting any hotter then normal. The coil probably would of burned up by now if the EOS wasn't closing or the coil was wired backwards. I would say it's the coil, but theatre doesn't see as much play as lets say the newer sterns.

I had an issue with the original SDB board where one of the tunnels came out on one of the rectifier circuits ( lost voltage on one of the circuits). So I decided to put a rottendog in temporarily until I had a chance to fix it. I completely rebuilt the old board with new rectifier, caps, regulator, some transistors. but accidently took out a tunnel in the process. those WPC boards are really easy to mess up if your not careful.

I recommend reading and re-reading Vid's guide. Honestly, a lot can contribute to this. If there is slop in the taughtness of the coil in the bracket, EOS gap, etc. This post is helpful:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers#post-284674

Hmm puting my game together and there sometging wrong here i think!?
Should the long metal hex just hang there?
If i am not remebering wrong there should be 2 more short hex post that is just hanging in the air and suporting the ramps?
Maybe someone can take a picture?

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1 of 2 hex suporting the ramp just only sits on the nut?

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I believe you should't have nuts there, the hex posts are the nut.

correct. hex spacer goes right onto the thread. no nut.

picked up this one , this week . playfield is coverd with full mylar , that i am pulling off . the piece i have done looks amazing .

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very nice. did you order a new coin door yet?

Looks like a new cabinet decal set is in order as well to bring that up to a nicer standard closer to what the playfield looks like.

Can anyone tell if in attract mode all the GI cycles off every few minutes. Then all comes back on at once? My game resets when that happens. Driving me crazy.

Hey guys, Does anyone have a list of lamps for TOM? Maybe I missed it in the manual, all I found there was locations of playfield lamps. I tried searching this thread but Im not having any luck. Im helping my friend shop out his game and he wants to customize the colors himself rather than buy the kit. I just want to make sure we get them all in one order.

Basically looking for:
? # of 555
? # of 44
? # of Flashers

Thanks!