(Topic ID: 43909)

Theatre of Magic Club


By Nilroc

6 years ago



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There are 2820 posts in this topic. You are on page 42 of 57.
#2051 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Action Pinball. Has the 1.4H and the required U22 in stock. I've never purchased from them before, but a quick google search brought them up.

Thank you for that. So, what does the group recommend for the "best" ROM. I currently have 1.2 so either need to upgrade to 1.3 or 1.4H, correct? Cheers, Craig

#2052 1 year ago
Quoted from FreeBee:

It kind of sounds like another switch (besides the flipper) is being triggered somehow. I just tried in my TOM, but it isn't the ball plunger switch that makes that sound (when you plunge the ball). From memory, it kind of sounds like the spinner sound and light. Can you check for switch matrix errors, or the spinner switch being a little too sensitive?

You were exactly right on the spinner. The switch was stuck closed and that was causing this behavior. This does make me worry there is something else funky going on though. Perhaps unrelated by my spirit ring magnet is also blowing the fuse for coils 1-8 when energized. Any thoughts on how/if these two could be related? Thank you all!

#2053 1 year ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Thank you for that. So, what does the group recommend for the "best" ROM. I currently have 1.2 so either need to upgrade to 1.3 or 1.4H, correct? Cheers, Craig

You may get a number of differing opinions on this. I have been running 1.3 for about 15 years and don't see a huge benefit in upgrading to 1.4H, others that run 1.4H say that it is the "only way to go" and that even though there are some known bugs in the code, the occur so minimally that the benefits outweigh the bugs.

We all will agree that you should get off of 1.2.

#2054 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

You may get a number of differing opinions on this. I have been running 1.3 for about 15 years and don't see a huge benefit in upgrading to 1.4H, others that run 1.4H say that it is the "only way to go" and that even though there are some known bugs in the code, the occur so minimally that the benefits outweigh the bugs.
We all will agree that you should get off of 1.2.

What are the main benefits of 1.4H? I believe I read that it improves the working saw mod?

#2055 1 year ago

It enables the spinning saw mod, and I guess some early production games had a post between the flippers that would come up. Not necessary unless you wanted to add the spinning saw mod. Plus it's a home edition ROM, so no coin-drop if you wanted to put it out on location.

#2056 1 year ago

I have 1.3 and also have a working spinning saw. 1.4H just makes it interact differently. Mine spins when you hit the captured ball... I believe that with 1.4H it also spins when the Tiger Saw Multiball is activated as well. I have that "$280" motorized saw and lighted marquee setup from Pinball Pro, so other saw implementations may be different. Some have gone the DIY route using a small computer style fan, and like $25 total investment too.

Otherwise, like FatPanda mentions, there was a pop-up that used to come up where the "Shoot Again" insert is currently located. This was a prototype only feature that worked when the "Poof" target was hit. I've heard people talk about implementing it in their TOM, but not sure if anyone ever actually did.

#2057 1 year ago

I think in the 1.4h rom there is a bug that can on rare occasion crash the game. Mine has 1.2a and has no issues with the sawblade or marquee mods.

#2058 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

What are the main benefits of 1.4H? I believe I read that it improves the working saw mod?

I know the spinning saw mod had a molex connector that you have to use if running 1.4H. You don't use it in lower versions. Does 1.4h actually have different code or scoring vs 1.3?

#2059 1 year ago
Quoted from Cserold:

I know the spinning saw mod had a molex connector that you have to use if running 1.4H. You don't use it in lower versions. Does 1.4h actually have different code or scoring vs 1.3?

Nope, it just enables the drain pop up to work from the prototype playfields and makes the saw spin in tiger saw mode.

#2060 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Looks like it! Price is way too inflated. I'll customize it myself

I started putting it cool white bulbs, but I'm with you on the warm. Just fits the theme better. So I'm going to try some warm white and some purple/red on the GI.

Our price isn't inflated at all. In fact, it's usally about $10 cheaper than pricing yourself

However, we don't simply offer a kit full of mega bright bulbs that makes the game unplayable. We make all our kits in person and use frosted where needed to play well. We also offer those Spotlight kits and led strips we created that are no solder and help put light onto the playfield and not simply in your face. That's why the price is higher than just bulbs alone, but if you added up the bulbs and extras it's cheaper to buy a kit.

#2062 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballBulbs:

Our price isn't inflated at all. In fact, it's usally about $10 cheaper than pricing yourself
However, we don't simply offer a kit full of mega bright bulbs that makes the game unplayable. We make all our kits in person and use frosted where needed to play well. We also offer those Spotlight kits and led strips we created that are no solder and help put light onto the playfield and not simply in your face. That's why the price is higher than just bulbs alone, but if you added up the bulbs and extras it's cheaper to buy a kit.

Appreciate you chiming in and taking the time to explain what your kits involve. I'll definitely take a closer look. Cheers!

#2063 1 year ago

Has anyone installed a Mirco pf? It's something I'm very seriously considering in the near future, but would like to hear some feedback.

#2064 1 year ago

Did I just finish the wizard mode??? I believe I completed the 8 illusions, and then nothing really happened.

Without spoiling it for me (I know, it's supposed to be underwhelming but I still want to see it for myself) but does anything actually happen that would let you know you're in the wizard mode?

Thanks

#2065 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Did I just finish the wizard mode??? I believe I completed the 8 illusions, and then nothing really happened.
Without spoiling it for me (I know, it's supposed to be underwhelming but I still want to see it for myself) but does anything actually happen that would let you know you're in the wizard mode?
Thanks

Did you light all 4 of the stages lit above the flippers?

This puts you into grand finale.
Illusions is only 1 of the things you need.
Midnight madness is probably the hardest one to get unless you win it in the basement.

I dont think its underwhelming at all. Actually its pretty exciting!

#2066 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Did you light all 4 of the stages lit above the flippers?
This puts you into grand finale.
Illusions is only 1 of the things you need.
Midnight madness is probably the hardest one to get unless you win it in the basement.
I dont think its underwhelming at all. Actually its pretty exciting!

Alright then, I don't think I did it after all haha!

I did complete the 8 Illusions, but I also needs the stages and midnight madness?

#2067 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Alright then, I don't think I did it after all haha!
I did complete the 8 Illusions, but I also needs the stages and midnight madness?

Yes all 4 stages.

Knowing this makes the "clock" meaningful. You have to get to midnight by looping the right orbit.
Also you can advance the clock via a tiger saw award.

If you make the skill shot of "start illusion" by hitting the trunk you can get a lot of free illusions.
You dont have to finish an illusion for it to count, just start it.
I usually time out the magic hat, its too risky.

#2068 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Litedpinballmods
I actually like this 3d tiger better:
» YouTube video
It has the white color underneath.
Can you make something like this?
The LED's inside yours are too spotty. I can light the tiger with a spot.

We got hit pretty hard by Irma and lost over a week, just getting things back on track.

I am going to start a thread on our TOM mods when we get some stock up and caught up, please reply on that thread. If I get a fair amount of feedback of a change, we can make changes.

The original plastic has more white on it then the translit does. We opted not to put white on the tiger, because no white matches the translit pretty close. With the lights in the tiger it gives you the choice of lights on, lights off or you could dim it.

Please give me some clarification. Please look at picture above of the tiger not lit. Is that what you want, but with white under the tiger? Or are you saying you want an opaque orange? Red eyes? Do you want more white like the plastic it is replacing?

Trying to make one model that meets most peoples needs.

Dan

#2069 1 year ago

How many people would get this mod if made?

The designer made up a few of them a couple years ago. I think its really good!

#2070 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

How many people would get this mod if made?
» YouTube video
The designer made up a few of them a couple years ago. I think its really good!

Beautiful...if made I'd be in if not too crazy

#2071 1 year ago
Quoted from ulmpharmd:

Beautiful...if made I'd be in if not too crazy

me too

#2072 1 year ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

We got hit pretty hard by Irma and lost over a week, just getting things back on track.
I am going to start a thread on our TOM mods when we get some stock up and caught up, please reply on that thread. If I get a fair amount of feedback of a change, we can make changes.
The original plastic has more white on it then the translit does. We opted not to put white on the tiger, because no white matches the translit pretty close. With the lights in the tiger it gives you the choice of lights on, lights off or you could dim it.
Please give me some clarification. Please look at picture above of the tiger not lit. Is that what you want, but with white under the tiger? Or are you saying you want an opaque orange? Red eyes? Do you want more white like the plastic it is replacing?
Trying to make one model that meets most peoples needs.
Dan

I guess I want the tiger in the video above? If you can do it.
just light the eyes its a cool effect.

#2073 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yes all 4 stages.
Knowing this makes the "clock" meaningful. You have to get to midnight by looping the right orbit.
Also you can advance the clock via a tiger saw award.
If you make the skill shot of "start illusion" by hitting the trunk you can get a lot of free illusions.
You dont have to finish an illusion for it to count, just start it.
I usually time out the magic hat, its too risky.

Ok, I think I almost got it... Did all illusions, got clock to midnight, and then the trunk turned to the magic side and started counting down. I panicked and lost the ball haha.

#2074 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Ok, I think I almost got it... Did all illusions, got clock to midnight, and then the trunk turned to the magic side and started counting down. I panicked and lost the ball haha.

Nope, scratch that... Just downloaded the rule sheet.

That was Midnight Madness. Looks like I just had to finish that mode and I would have been able to start the Grand Finale! Guessing you can let Midnight Madness time out and the start the wizard mode?

Anyhow, what an awesome game! Can't wait to get the Mirco playfield in it!

#2075 1 year ago

I've been following them on their progress, but ouch. $125 USD is a bit rich for my blood. Maybe not for others, but when looking close at their pictures, like the ones of them boxed for shipping, there look to me to be very noticeable paint issues (areas that should be gold not being gold, etc). For that much money, they should be a little more spot on.

#2076 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Has anyone installed a Mirco pf? It's something I'm very seriously considering in the near future, but would like to hear some feedback.

I was one of those people pushing and pushing for a TOM reproduction playfield. I had been in talks with Mirco for many many months before they ever became available. I was even on a pre-order list, had money prepped, and.... didn't buy one.

There were 2 different TOM playfields made by 2 different supply houses. One is what most of us have and is considered the more desirable one (also know as TAG or Thomas A Grant version). The other, was from a company called Sun Process. It was, by many people's opinion, flawed. The Sun Process ones were found mainly outside of the U.S.A.

The bottom of the playfield is way too purple compared to what some estimated (not my estimate) 97+% of the playfields had. That in itself isn't terrible, I know. The "game design credit" lettering is blurry on it and hard to read, but again, not many people read that or notice it. The biggest issue that would stare at me every time that I played the game is the horrible moire effect with the gradient dot fade around the middle of the playfield. If you look at his playfield reproduction around the magician in the middle, you will see I asked Mirco about it, and he 1) didn't even know that there were multiple playfield manufacturers originally, 2) didn't realize that his film that he was using was the Sun Process, 3) didn't even notice the moire as he thought that it was supposed to be that way.

The Thomas A Grant version is what we all would have really wanted. I have a badly chipped "A" in MAGIC right in the middle of my playfield. I spent a ton of time and money pretty much restoring my TOM and the playfield is the only thing not re-done, but I wasn't about to trade one playfield problem for another one with a flawed looking playfield for $1000.

Not knocking Mirco at all on this. I really am not. He isn't in the U.S., and did what he thought was the perfect playfield. Just happened to be the less desirable (and somewhat flawed) film. Not his fault. He seems to do really great playfields and I am sure that the workmanship is just as great on this one.

For more information about the differences between the TAG and Sun Process playfields, check this out:

http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/hsa072914tomdiff.html

I've also attached an image from Mirco's Facebook post and circled the many areas in the middle of the playfield with the bad moire effect. I did confirm with him that this is truly in the playfield, and not an issue with the camera that he used to take the photos.

Might not be an issue for you though, it just was for me. Again, he does great work. Unfortunately, it doesn't sound like the TAG film exists anywhere any more, so if you want a new playfield, this is your only choice. Otherwise you have to strip your playfield, send it off for like 3-4 months for repair, and then hope that you took good enough notes, video, and photos to put it all back together. The benefit of a more "casual" restore is that you can set up 2 rotisseries side by side, and start swapping from one to the other. Sure, you will still need a lot of notes, videos, and photos, but you won't have to wait months for your brain to forget how to put it all back together again.

mirco-tom-marked (resized).jpg

#2077 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I've been following them on their progress, but ouch. $125 USD is a bit rich for my blood. Maybe not for others, but when looking close at their pictures, like the ones of them boxed for shipping, there look to me to be very noticeable paint issues (areas that should be gold not being gold, etc). For that much money, they should be a little more spot on.

$125 is pretty steep...paint doesnt look bad at all though. There might be some spots where the gold isnt as dark, but it looks good overall. I'm considering this or a new plastic trunk with fiberglass reinforcement, which would be half as much. I dont think i would care to see the trunk flex during play, and I know that balls have ricocheted off of the trunk hole back out, and I dont think i want to lose that aspect of the game.

#2078 1 year ago

For $125 I think I will pass. I put padding on the back side of my trunk to take up the gap and have had good luck with breakage since than. But I dont play my games as much as a lot of others do here on Pinside.

#2079 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

$125 is pretty steep...paint doesnt look bad at all though. There might be some spots where the gold isnt as dark, but it looks good overall. I'm considering this or a new plastic trunk with fiberglass reinforcement, which would be half as much. I dont think i would care to see the trunk flex during play, and I know that balls have ricocheted off of the trunk hole back out, and I dont think i want to lose that aspect of the game.

I don't know. Looking at one of their own pictures from yesterday, these don't look good "enough" for me to pay the price. There is a lot of "thin" gold layer on these that make those parts look more like silver than gold.

I've already done a fiberglass reinforced trunk and have, knock on wood, had zero issues with it, plus is responds to hits the way that it should in my book. I would be worried about bounce.

flextrunks (resized).jpg

#2080 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I was one of those people pushing and pushing for a TOM reproduction playfield. I had been in talks with Mirco for many many months before they ever became available. I was even on a pre-order list, had money prepped, and.... didn't buy one.
There were 2 different TOM playfields made by 2 different supply houses. One is what most of us have and is considered the more desirable one (also know as TAG or Thomas A Grant version). The other, was from a company called Sun Process. It was, by many people's opinion, flawed. The Sun Process ones were found mainly outside of the U.S.A.
The bottom of the playfield is way too purple compared to what some estimated (not my estimate) 97+% of the playfields had. That in itself isn't terrible, I know. The "game design credit" lettering is blurry on it and hard to read, but again, not many people read that or notice it. The biggest issue that would stare at me every time that I played the game is the horrible moire effect with the gradient dot fade around the middle of the playfield. If you look at his playfield reproduction around the magician in the middle, you will see I asked Mirco about it, and he 1) didn't even know that there were multiple playfield manufacturers originally, 2) didn't realize that his film that he was using was the Sun Process, 3) didn't even notice the moire as he thought that it was supposed to be that way.
The Thomas A Grant version is what we all would have really wanted. I have a badly chipped "A" in MAGIC right in the middle of my playfield. I spent a ton of time and money pretty much restoring my TOM and the playfield is the only thing not re-done, but I wasn't about to trade one playfield problem for another one with a flawed looking playfield for $1000.
Not knocking Mirco at all on this. I really am not. He isn't in the U.S., and did what he thought was the perfect playfield. Just happened to be the less desirable (and somewhat flawed) film. Not his fault. He seems to do really great playfields and I am sure that the workmanship is just as great on this one.
For more information about the differences between the TAG and Sun Process playfields, check this out:
http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/hsa072914tomdiff.html
I've also attached an image from Mirco's Facebook post and circled the many areas in the middle of the playfield with the bad moire effect. I did confirm with him that this is truly in the playfield, and not an issue with the camera that he used to take the photos.
Might not be an issue for you though, it just was for me. Again, he does great work. Unfortunately, it doesn't sound like the TAG film exists anywhere any more, so if you want a new playfield, this is your only choice. Otherwise you have to strip your playfield, send it off for like 3-4 months for repair, and then hope that you took good enough notes, video, and photos to put it all back together. The benefit of a more "casual" restore is that you can set up 2 rotisseries side by side, and start swapping from one to the other. Sure, you will still need a lot of notes, videos, and photos, but you won't have to wait months for your brain to forget how to put it all back together again.

Appreciate you giving all that info. I was a bit worried about the colours when I saw the repro pics on Mirco's site.

I have a TAS pf, so I may just look to get it restored rather than get a repro.

#2081 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I don't know. Looking at one of their own pictures from yesterday, these don't look good "enough" for me to pay the price. There is a lot of "thin" gold layer on these that make those parts look more like silver than gold.

I think that is just the way the flash hit it. I have some coming in and I will post pics/video/review of the result.

#2082 1 year ago
Quoted from GreenMachine19:

I think that is just the way the flash hit it. I have some coming in and I will post pics/video/review of the result.

Appreciate you posting your findings as I am on the fence with these! As much as I like the idea the cost is 4 times (124USD) that of the standard ones (31USD) and there is no history on these, other than what the makers put out there! So be interesting to see feedback as, not only, the durability but how the ball comes off the trunk!

#2083 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

How many people would get this mod if made?

I love the look of that tiger. Please let me know if they become available, I'd be interested.

#2084 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I don't know. Looking at one of their own pictures from yesterday, these don't look good "enough" for me to pay the price. There is a lot of "thin" gold layer on these that make those parts look more like silver than gold.
I've already done a fiberglass reinforced trunk and have, knock on wood, had zero issues with it, plus is responds to hits the way that it should in my book. I would be worried about bounce.

Looking at the pics on my laptop, instead of my phone, it does seem that the paint is a bit thinner than i originally thought. Just reinforces my thought of getting a new plastic trunk and reinforcing it with fiberglass.

#2085 1 year ago

Ok, let me make sure I understand what you want. Feedback please.

Solid orange, white under head with a little white on face, red glowing eyes.

If that works, we will need to do some color matching and light placement. If all goes well, should have a prototype by Friday, if issues will take a little longer.

Dan

#2086 1 year ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

Ok, let me make sure I understand what you want. Feedback please.
Solid orange, white under head with a little white on face, red glowing eyes.
If that works, we will need to do some color matching and light placement. If all goes well, should have a prototype by Friday, if issues will take a little longer.
Dan

Yeah, I think that would be something that people would like better than a kitty with LED spots coming from its innards. LOL

I really do appreciate your efforts and what you were trying to accomplish, but maybe something like what you state above, and others referenced would be better. Although red glowing eyes are interesting and all, I never understood why so many of the mods over the years had things like rabbits with red eyes, other tigers with red eyes, even saw one once with a couple of doves with red eyes. Makes things seem more "sinister" than a pinball based off of a magician theme. Not sure if that would mean white or blue eyes, but just saying that the red LED thing never really made sense to me for continuity of the game compared to the graphics printed on the playfield and the backglass.

#2087 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Yeah, I think that would be something that people would like better than a kitty with LED spots coming from its innards. LOL
I really do appreciate your efforts and what you were trying to accomplish, but maybe something like what you state above, and others referenced would be better. Although red glowing eyes are interesting and all, I never understood why so many of the mods over the years had things like rabbits with red eyes, other tigers with red eyes, even saw one once with a couple of doves with red eyes. Makes things seem more "sinister" than a pinball based off of a magician theme. Not sure if that would mean white or blue eyes, but just saying that the red LED thing never really made sense to me for continuity of the game compared to the graphics printed on the playfield and the backglass.

Thanks for the feedback.

#2088 1 year ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

Solid orange, white under head with a little white on face, red glowing eyes.

And white teeth or fangs!

#2089 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

And white teeth or fangs!

Yes.

We will offer 2 tigers, the lit on from our early pictures and an opaque one with lit eyes, per multiple requests.

I was not aware of this, and most of us here were not aware. We though tigers were more orange, like Tony The Tiger on Frosted Flakes. Turns out they are more of a brown/orange, like some Fall leaves may be. That is what advertising does to us.

We looked at the video, high level of orange in that tiger. We then looked at the original plastic piece on the game, a bit more brown. Then started to look at other tiger pictures/models, a bit more brown. So we are color matching to what most tigers colors we found, the color will be slightly browner then the video.

If the color holds up, should have a prototype in a few days. Sometimes the colors do odd things when we start to mold them.

Dan

#2090 1 year ago

Voltage resistor help needed please.

So I am working on a DIY magic wand mod. I know where I want to connect it, and I have the specs on the LED I want to use to light it, but I need some sort of resistor so that I don't blow the LED.

I basically want to connect to the flasher bulb under the yellow dome by, you guessed it, the Hocus Pocus. Not talking about the lightening bolt on the playfield, but under the yellow dome on the plastic piece on the left of the playfield.

Here are the specs of the LED that I would like to use:
Forward voltage(V): 3.2-3.4
Current(mA): 20

Does anyone know what kind of resistor I need. I believe that the flashers are 13 volt (or is that 12 volt?). I already have LEDs throughout, but am wanting to just tie right in to this flasher socket under the playfield and drive both the regular flasher bulb AND the LED mentioned above for the tip of the magician's wand.

I'm trying to do the math, but am getting stumped.

13V - 3.3V = 9.7v
9.7v/20mA = 9.7v/0.020A = 485 ohms. Is that right? Would I be better off just getting another LED flasher bulb and tearing it apart so that it fits inside the wand and use that to tap into the 13V socket?

I used an online calculator and it came up with the resistor in the image below...

Any help would be great.

resistor (resized).jpg

If this is really 12V instead of 13V, then it would be a different resistor (470 ohm 1/2 watt).

#2091 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

The "game design credit" lettering is blurry on it and hard to read, but again, not many people read that or notice it. The biggest issue that would stare at me every time that I played the game is the horrible moire effect with the gradient dot fade around the middle of the playfield.

I bought one at TPF this year, I'm trying to look close to see the difference your talking about. Maybe I'm missing something.
Maybe the purple is off, but meh..

#2092 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

I bought one at TPF this year, I'm trying to look close to see the difference your talking about. Maybe I'm missing something.
Maybe the purple is off, but meh..

The purple is drastically different, blue like I said, I was even OK with that. I also stated that the lacking definition of the "credit words" isn't a big deal to me either since who really looks there anyway...

Another color that is "off" is the "gold" in the "illusions" book is a bit more green. Like the purple, this is just a difference, and not something that is "wrong." It is just something that the non-U.S. versions had. The color differences are easily evident in the side by side image below. For more pictures with the differences, just go to that link I put above in my previous post. Up to this point, it is just personal preference as to if someone wants the U.S. looking one, or the non-U.S. version. The top image shows the wording difference, they all show the purple vs. red, and the greenish gold vs the yellowish gold. Let me say it one last time. None of this is the end of the world in my opinion either.

The problems with Mirco's are with the gradient blend that I circled. The moire is the sign of a bad scan, copy, and/or print. Notice how the areas that I circled don't have a smooth blend/fade. I work quite a bit with graphics and imagery, so this is something that just screams at me. I noticed this right away, and couldn't believe it when Mirco told me that yes the playfields have that issue. I was hoping it was just the pictures.

Again, I just mentioned it since someone was asking. I would hate to have someone spend the almost $1000 and notice these things later. If someone knows them ahead of time, then they can at least make an educated decision as to if those things are important or not to them. I'm glad that you like yours.

TOM-playfield-differences (resized) (resized).jpg

#2093 1 year ago

I'd take 3 of those 3D tiger mods.

#2094 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I'm glad that you like yours.

personally, yeah it would be great if the colors were more spot on. I got a another baby pacman overlay after I noticed the blue one guy used was way off from what it should of been. At the time there were two different people to pick from.
Like you said there is only one vendor for new TOM playfields, so when looking at it from that aspect...

I'd send my playfield out, but not knowing the cost and how long it's going to take keeps me from even trying. I know there was one guy selling a NOS TOM playfield on ebay this January for 1800. The colors were the same but, at that cost holy crap.

#2095 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

personally, yeah it would be great if the colors were more spot on. I got a another baby pacman overlay after I noticed the blue one guy used was way off from what it should of been. At the time there were two different people to pick from.
Like you said there is only one vendor for new TOM playfields, so when looking at it from that aspect...
I'd send my playfield out, but not knowing the cost and how long it's going to take keeps me from even trying. I know there was one guy selling a NOS TOM playfield on ebay this January for 1800. The colors were the same but, at that cost holy crap.

I'm in this boat right now too. I've gotten few quotes, and may just end up sending my pf in. I have TAG pf, and prefer those colors, so I'm likely going that route.

#2096 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

I bought one at TPF this year, I'm trying to look close to see the difference your talking about. Maybe I'm missing something.
Maybe the purple is off, but meh..

Like others have said, just depends what you care about and what your restoration skills and timeline are. I used a mirco for this full restore shown here and think it turned out nice. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/theatre-of-magic-full-restoration-pics#post-3950975

I would be more worried about predrilling existing holes in top of playfield to prevent clearcoat lifting and cracking. Especially ball guide insert holes

#2097 1 year ago

Here are some pictures of the opaque tiger. Is this the colors and paint you are looking for? It has white under the face and a few other areas. It has red lights for the eyes, but they did not line up in this prototype, it is giving us some problems. These lights will require more work, may be a few ($10) dollars more.

That is also the second version of the theater mask.

Once we get this tiger right, I will post here and start a separate thread.

Dan

tiger opa (resized).jpg

tiger opa 2 (resized).jpg

tiger opa 3 (resized).jpg

#2098 1 year ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Voltage resistor help needed please.
So I am working on a DIY magic wand mod. I know where I want to connect it, and I have the specs on the LED I want to use to light it, but I need some sort of resistor so that I don't blow the LED.
I basically want to connect to the flasher bulb under the yellow dome by, you guessed it, the Hocus Pocus. Not talking about the lightening bolt on the playfield, but under the yellow dome on the plastic piece on the left of the playfield.
Here are the specs of the LED that I would like to use:
Forward voltage(V): 3.2-3.4
Current(mA): 20
Does anyone know what kind of resistor I need. I believe that the flashers are 13 volt (or is that 12 volt?). I already have LEDs throughout, but am wanting to just tie right in to this flasher socket under the playfield and drive both the regular flasher bulb AND the LED mentioned above for the tip of the magician's wand.
I'm trying to do the math, but am getting stumped.
13V - 3.3V = 9.7v
9.7v/20mA = 9.7v/0.020A = 485 ohms. Is that right? Would I be better off just getting another LED flasher bulb and tearing it apart so that it fits inside the wand and use that to tap into the 13V socket?
I used an online calculator and it came up with the resistor in the image below...
Any help would be great.

If this is really 12V instead of 13V, then it would be a different resistor (470 ohm 1/2 watt).

The flasher voltage is 20V, so you need a resistor of 1K with at least 1W.

#2099 1 year ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

Here are some pictures of the opaque tiger. Is this the colors and paint you are looking for? It has white under the face and a few other areas. It has red lights for the eyes, but they did not line up in this prototype, it is giving us some problems. These lights will require more work, may be a few ($10) dollars more.
That is also the second version of the theater mask.
Once we get this tiger right, I will post here and start a separate thread.
Dan

Looks a lot better in my opinion.
It needs more or a brighter white for contrast on the chest and maybe belly? Im no artist but do like the one in the vid a lot even though the front arms are slightly long. But it matches the game artwork better withe the head well behind the saw and is close to perfect
Maybe some better work on the stripes they could be more refined.

Great attempt though, I know its a ton of work.

Again Im no artist at all and its just my opinion.

#2100 1 year ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

Here are some pictures of the opaque tiger. Is this the colors and paint you are looking for? It has white under the face and a few other areas. It has red lights for the eyes, but they did not line up in this prototype, it is giving us some problems. These lights will require more work, may be a few ($10) dollars more.
That is also the second version of the theater mask.
Once we get this tiger right, I will post here and start a separate thread.
Dan

I personally would prefer to not have lights in the eyes. So maybe an option, or at least a color option.

To me the stripes and the paint on the face look weird. Look at the stripes on this picture. Long lines on the body and very few near the paws/forearm. A lot more white on the face and eyes, and belly.

Also the toes on the paws are spread too far apart.

584181fda6515b1e0ad75a33 (resized).png

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