Page 3-27 of the manual. Page 149/158 if you're looking at the PDF available online.

Awesome, thanks man!

One other thing, does anyone have any suggestions for protecting the pf from the basement door?

I'm going to be doing a pf swap eventually, and this is one area I'll definitely be looking to protect.

Same as MM; Mylar around the opening is all you need.

Do you know of anyone selling a pre-cut mylar for it? Like Pinbits has the pre-cuts for MM which I ordered since I f'd up the factory one trying to trim it.

Not that I know of. If you could do a really good job measuring and tracing it, it wouldn’t be too hard to cut the Mylar on a Cameo.

Would somebody mind taking pics of their right orbit one way gate and the post by it. My right orbit shots all Brick off the black post sleeve. See pic

Thanks in advance.

IMG_9737 (resized).JPG

I had this issue for a long time and finally decided to fix it. It ended up requiring a few tweaks and now it's nearly perfect. Based on your picture I can't tell what's wrong but here's how I solved the problem:

First off check the gate on the left side of that area. Mine had been re-installed incorrectly with the bracket on the nearside of the guide rail. Fixing that improved it tremendously but it would still brick too often. Now run your fingers along the playfield and up the metal ramp to check to see if it's perfectly smooth. Mine had a bit of a ridge and I ended up taking the ramp out and sanding down the tips a bit to make a perfectly smooth transition.

With those changes that shot never bricks anymore.

Thanks for the reply. Just realized there are technically 2 gates in my first pic. I'm talking about the one below. The ball guide is currently behind the black post and the ball just slams into the post. Don't think this can be correct. Thanks for any other tips.

2017-09-05_17-32-35 (resized).jpg

The ball guide on mine runs on the inner side of the black pst (opposite side as yours in the picture.)

Yup. The ball guide is bent the wrong way.

Thank you gents. I appreciate the replies!

Finally fully completed my TOM full restoration and posted more detailed pics of the process and finished product on the thread linked below for those interested in restores.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/theatre-of-magic-full-restoration-pics

Absolutely gorgeous. I'm slowly restoring mine. I'll post before and after photos when it's actually finally done.

Quick question... I'm replacing the coil that raises and lowers the pin in the subway. The manual calls for AE27-1200, but the one in my machine is a AN26-1200 with a diode on it.

Can anyone comment on this. Wondering what the correct coil is, and if it needs the diode.

Thanks

There are guys a hell of a lot smarter than me that would know but I'm pretty sure the AE27-1200 was factory on mine. I will see what I can find in my pics. Appreciate the nice words.

I'd greatly appreciate if you can send a pic. If you can also get the lugs in the photo so I can see the wire orientation, that would be awesome.

You should use AE27-1200 lke the manual says. You don't need a diode. Remove it from the coil lugs. This will prevent you from mis-wiring the coil. Without the diode it does not matter what the wire orientation is.

I just helped my friend set up his newly acquired TOM. We ran into a weird issue where you can launch a ball out of the shooter lane such that it wedges between the wire ramp and cabinet and cannot be removed without opening the glass.

Is thi common?

Can you post a picture of where the ball is getting stuck?

Most likely something is not lined up correctly or mounted wrong. Make sure the ramp is lined up with the wireform correctly.

We are going to have a few TOM mods listed next week. These all have lights, and can be hooked up to be on all of the time, or triggered from a play field light.

Lighted Tiger. Replaces plastic tiger, will work with spinning saw mods.

Theater Faces. Can be mounted a few places in the game.

Chandelier. Can be mounted in a few locations in the game. Looks good on TAF also.

Rabbit in hat. 2 circuits. Light is one circuit, motor to spin rabbit is another circuit. Can be placed in a few locations in the game.

Dan

tom (resized).jpg

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Making a little progress with my machine, but still lots of gremlins... Wondering if anyone can help me with some questions about the magnets.

1) The trunk magnet was burning F904, but the magnet itself is bad so I've disabled it until I get a replacement. F903 is now blowing from the outlane magnets. Is this a common issue? Can the magnet time be adjusted?

2) Installed the auto Eddy boards from Pinbits, and started getting an error on the Left Drain Eddy (Switch 45). Any ideas?

3) The auto Eddy boards are larger than stock Eddy. Do you just drill new holes?

Thanks

Hmm, that's odd. I've never heard of that before. I don't know of magnet time being adjustable either, nor have I heard of someone doing that as a fix for blowing fuses. Is it possible they got wired together somehow? Also, are you confident you have the right fuses? Have to ask.

If you unplug the left drain eddy, what happens? Before putting in the auto-Eddy board, what was going on there? Did you get that error before?

That should only be true for the trunk eddy. The other two should fit in the existing holes. I had to make a new hole for the trunk eddy...I use a manual crank drill with a 7/64 bit and some masking tape to tell me when I'm in 1/4".

Can anyone tell me, when lock is lit, what software logic needs to happen for a center loop to register a ball lock when it drops in the trunk? Just the opto in the trunk, or something else as well?

I'm having a new problem where sometimes, when lock is lit, and I send a ball into the center loop, it drops in the trunk from behind but doesn't register a ball as locked, then it shoots it back up again from the trap door. If the trunk has an opening facing you (pre-illusion), it triggers the illusion, but not the ball lock.

Could this be just the opto? I replaced it a year ago, so it's fairly new.

I would check the subway switches to see if they're working.

I've tested the center loops switches (both sides), the "subway opto," and subway lock 1, 2 and 3, and all are working perfectly. That's what's driving me nuts.

Can you recreate this with the glass off?

Yup, all fuses as per the manual. I've disabled the trunk, and that fuse is yet to blow.

Eddy error is now gone. Not sure why or have w, but it is. Will keep an eye on it.

As for the size, the outlane and trunk Eddy from Pinbits are all the same size (and larger than stock). Did the mistakenly send me 3 trunk Eddy's?

I just bought all 3 and they were all same size and larger tban originals

Interesting... So maybe they were making them smaller before since someone else commented that they're out lane boards were the same size?

Kind of annoying that they didn't just keep the same footprint on both.

A minor inconvenience for a far superior product, from what I've read. When my stock boards start acting up, I won't have any issues drilling a hole or two to put in a board that I "shouldn't" have to touch again.

Agree. Didn't bother me and my guess is that schematics of circuitry demanded it.

Anyone ever seen this issue... every time I either flipper button, my flashers go off at top of game and a sound plays. Posted video here:

I am getting a lot of PM's about the tiger. We are making now and will have for sale next week. It will be $99.99, replaces your current tiger, no changes to the game. It can be hooked up to GI or playfield lights (NOT 12V). Comes with everything needed to mount and hook up. We use Comets Matrix system for hook up. The Tiger real helps to light up the game.

This is the prototype and is nearly perfect, making a slight change to the paint, removing paint from back of paw.

Here are a couple more pictures.

Dan

tiger off side (resized).jpg

tiger off (resized).jpg

tiger on (resized).jpg

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tom (resized).jpg

I wish the tiger LED lights were diffused better and not so spotty?
Either way Im in let me know when to pay.

pinballinreno I have you on our list.

Lighting was a challenge on this mod. The first one we poured we put some lights at the body end, and the light just would not penetrate, it is 9 inches long. We also wanted to have these colored close to the original, so it looks good even with the lights are off. The orange color further cuts down the light transmission. We then tried some middle placement, but the light would not transmit. We tried top placement, but then light would not transmit to the paw. When it is all said and done, we poured 8 with different light placement, and this is what we felt worked the best. The LED light strip in this is 21 lights.

With the angle of the lights and the orange, we feel it does not overpower that area. We feel the amount of light it makes matches the game very well and really accents the orange pop bumper caps well. I did mentioned that we use Comet matrix plugs, and if you want more control over the lights, you can use Comet's light dimer for $1.95

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/mtxbriteadj.htm

We are getting a lot of emails on this, so I started a list. If you are interested, PM me, and I will put it on my list. We can only make 6 of these a week, and I will email when we have one ready. The reason we can only make 6 of these a week, is because the mold is large and expensive, and it takes 24 hours to cure completely in the mold.

These are hand made, so the light placement does very slightly, less then a 1/4" I would guess, and they are hand painted.

Dan

Just added PinSound to my ToM and was wondering if there are any custom mixes out there? I'm working on something of my own I'll share in the future but for now just want to play around with it.

Looking to change the LED lighting, and love how this looks below. What do you guys suggest for color choices? Looks like they've gone with a lot of purple and red under the GI plastics? And maybe bright white under the inserts?

Also, in this video from Namsan, his gorgeous TOM looks to be using some blueish bulbs. Maybe cyan?

Any suggestions would be appreciated

tom (resized).jpg

My TOM is all stock and I think that looks the best. If I was to go to LEDs I would just go with colors under the field and stay white above.

Warm or sunlights on top, colored matched LEDs for red/blue/green inserts. Yellow/orange inserts get sunlight and warm LEDs, respectively.
Note: you will want to order flex heads for many of the inserts due to many light sockets being mounted parallel to playfield.

So are you saying that the examples above that look really purple, are using warm LEDs on the GI under plastics?

From the photo, it looks like there are purple LEDs, especially around the lane guides.

Looks like the kit from pinballbulbs.com

No -- they are using purple LEDs in the GI. Not my preference to do that and I was just sharing my preference (using warm or medium whites).

Looks like it! Price is way too inflated. I'll customize it myself

I started putting it cool white bulbs, but I'm with you on the warm. Just fits the theme better. So I'm going to try some warm white and some purple/red on the GI.

Have you tried EL tape or cuttable panels?
They glow ok and have no spotty look.

Hi guys,

Can the 1.4H rom be purchased in the states online? Appreciate any links to it.

Cheers,
Craig

Action Pinball. Has the 1.4H and the required U22 in stock. I've never purchased from them before, but a quick google search brought them up.

It kind of sounds like another switch (besides the flipper) is being triggered somehow. I just tried in my TOM, but it isn't the ball plunger switch that makes that sound (when you plunge the ball). From memory, it kind of sounds like the spinner sound and light. Can you check for switch matrix errors, or the spinner switch being a little too sensitive?

Litedpinballmods

I actually like this 3d tiger better:

It has the white color underneath.

Can you make something like this?

The LED's inside yours are too spotty. I can light the tiger with a spot.