(Topic ID: 43909)

Theatre of Magic Club


By Nilroc

6 years ago



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#1801 2 years ago
Quoted from Azmodeus:

Questions about the magnet save.
I have seen the magnets on the side marginally save my balls. I might have 2 types of balls accidentally. But my question is:
Is there a ball type not to use or it it just working as intended.
Thanks. I kind of like the fact that it doesn't grab it every time perfectly. I've seen it work stronger on others but mine seems fine.
I would troubleshoot more but I have trouble even getting under the hood right now,
Just wondering. On the magnet strength. I will change all balls soon, but which to use? On theater specifically.

I've just used standard, normal stock pinballs sold by Marco, Pinball Life, or a half dozen others and never had a problem with the magna saves catching balls (when then aren't flying by too fast).

#1802 2 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

The issue with the trunk chipping is that as the soft plastic trunk ages, it hardens. As that happens, it can cause chipping. If you make the trunk harder, it absorbs even less shock, so you may be encouraging chipping.
For this reason, I installed dynomat inside my trunk bottom inside to absorb as much of the shock as possible. If/when the trunk gets too hard, I'm not sure there is much I can do outside of replacing it.

Others had done the fiberglass "fix" and had it last several years (and still going strong)... Here is one from this thread:

Quoted from caker137:

This guy figured it out. Fiberglass. I have followed his lead and had virtually no wear after several years.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/theatre-of-magic-trunk-repair#post-2629

I guess we can look at it from different angles.... The trunk itself is brittle... We can all agree to that. The fiberglass method tries to make it solid as a rock... strong solid surfaces dissipate energy throughout the entire area, thus the impact, as long as the fiberglass is thick and strong enough, dissipates through the whole trunk and actually transfers some of the energy into the connections under the trunk as well. The fiberglass also is holding the trunk plastic together stronger than any sticky tape or even Dynamat adhesive. The fiberglass essentially bonds to the plastic vs. just sticking to it.

Now, the negative that I could see is that if you hit the exact same spot over and over, you could actually dent the trunk plastic. That would take a lot of super precise shots.

Now take the foam tape or Dynamat. They both are designed to absorb some of the impact. The foam probably has the most absorption because it can compress the most. It is also the least capable in preventing the trunk itself from flexing when hit and this, since the trunks are brittle as I first mentioned, would be the most susceptible to flexing to the point of cracking. Brittle objects break when experiencing flex... Now, maybe not enough flex happens with the foam, but just saying that the flexing is what will cause cracks first, and even that probably isn't a concern. Now the Dynamat is somewhere in the middle. It is more rigid that the foam, but has less absorbing properties too. That extra rigidity should mean less flexing and less chance for cracking. That said, it isn't bonded to the trunk, and isn't as rigid as the fiberglass.

Again, I am not knocking it, just going off of the logic above. I am sure that for all practical purposes any of these methods work well. It comes across like I am really disliking the foam, but I'm not. So many people have done that with great success. I just know that I had foam pieces inside my original trunk (installed by the previous owner) and that trunk was broken badly. I am sure that different foam, and maybe more strategic placement would have helped, but it has failed, so I wanted to look into something different.

That is when I looked beyond simple pinball trunks and into general science of strength, including impact fracture resistance. I came across scientific articles, yeah I dug that deep, about anything from the automotive and aerospace industries (carbon fiber) to simple concrete to military uses as ballistic armor where fiber-reinforced materials are used. (for plastics it is fiber-reinforced plastic, or FRP)... One of the more every day example is that of concrete. Concrete seems hard, but is actually considered very brittle. You can break and crack a concrete slab with a few hits with a sledgehammer. Now, if you reinforce that concrete with rebar, or even fiber mesh that is being used in a lot of places now, you may eventually "dent" or damage the surface if hit enough in the same spot, but you will have a much harder time creating that catastrophic crack. There are people that study these properties and you can find test results for that, as well as any fiber/resin composite reinforcements, where they test the resilience and strength of the materials in a testing lab. The reason I mention that is because in the concrete example, I kept telling myself that you have the ground under the concrete to act like an absorber (like the foam), but sure enough, there are people whose jobs are to test the stuff with nothing behind (or under) it. One of the tests that I found was a 24" x 24" x 4" concrete slab and a same sized slab with rebar, and another with the fiber mesh in the middle. These were all held up by 2 edges (sort of like a bridge only attached on 2 ends) and they used a press for a continuous pressure test as well as a dropped weight test. All were tested to their breaking points and obviously 2 slabs of each kind was used. The fiber mesh held together the best, the rebar was the most rigid, but its biggest strength was limited close to the rebar itself. The plain concrete failed pretty easily.

Another example would be the ballistic armor. When I found that information, it really seemed to hit home. How do you create a lightweight, super strong material that can stop projectiles? Fiber-reinforcemed plastics.... So many similarities to trying to protect our trunks from the pinball projectile to be ignored.

So I used those details, plus other information that is available online, that says that the best way to prevent something brittle from breaking is to not expose it to any stress, and the 2nd best was to prevent it from flexing. If that prevention also is bonded to the brittle material, should a crack occur, it will still hold up without chipping or losing chunks more-so than anything else.

So yeah, I over researched this stuff... Even so, I would still argue that someone using foam, which allows the most flexing of the brittle trunk, will still be very successful in significantly increasing the longevity of their trunks. Nothing can completely protect them from wear (short of a different material used for the trunk itself). I just went for a bit of overkill. Plus it gave me a good excuse to get a fiberglass kit. You would be surprised at how many uses you can find for adding fiberglass around the hour for repairs, or improved strength.

The only way that anyone would ever know how well these methods compare, under normal usage type tests, would be to get 3 identical trunks from same production runs, apply the impact reinforcement and/or absorber, and scientifically test them. Nobody is going to do that because they all seem to work just fine.

Whew. Enough rambling there. Again, that was all from my research a while back, but that does not mean that it is the end all, be all of this question and I am sure that a foamed trunk or dynamated trunk or fiberglassed trunk will all last a really long time. Almost as long as this post. LOL

#1803 2 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Again, that was all from my research a while back, but that does not mean that it is the end all, be all of this question and I am sure that a foamed trunk or dynamated trunk or fiberglassed trunk will all last a really long time. Almost as long as this post. LOL

Wow, I'm convinced. This leads me to another conclusion; I may 3D scan my trunk and try printing them with various materials.

#1804 2 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Others had done the fiberglass "fix" and had it last several years (and still going strong)... Here is one from this thread:

I guess we can look at it from different angles.... The trunk itself is brittle... We can all agree to that. The fiberglass method tries to make it solid as a rock... strong solid surfaces dissipate energy throughout the entire area, thus the impact, as long as the fiberglass is thick and strong enough, dissipates through the whole trunk and actually transfers some of the energy into the connections under the trunk as well. The fiberglass also is holding the trunk plastic together stronger than any sticky tape or even Dynamat adhesive. The fiberglass essentially bonds to the plastic vs. just sticking to it.
Now, the negative that I could see is that if you hit the exact same spot over and over, you could actually dent the trunk plastic. That would take a lot of super precise shots.
Now take the foam tape or Dynamat. They both are designed to absorb some of the impact. The foam probably has the most absorption because it can compress the most. It is also the least capable in preventing the trunk itself from flexing when hit and this, since the trunks are brittle as I first mentioned, would be the most susceptible to flexing to the point of cracking. Brittle objects break when experiencing flex... Now, maybe not enough flex happens with the foam, but just saying that the flexing is what will cause cracks first, and even that probably isn't a concern. Now the Dynamat is somewhere in the middle. It is more rigid that the foam, but has less absorbing properties too. That extra rigidity should mean less flexing and less chance for cracking. That said, it isn't bonded to the trunk, and isn't as rigid as the fiberglass.
Again, I am not knocking it, just going off of the logic above. I am sure that for all practical purposes any of these methods work well. It comes across like I am really disliking the foam, but I'm not. So many people have done that with great success. I just know that I had foam pieces inside my original trunk (installed by the previous owner) and that trunk was broken badly. I am sure that different foam, and maybe more strategic placement would have helped, but it has failed, so I wanted to look into something different.
That is when I looked beyond simple pinball trunks and into general science of strength, including impact fracture resistance. I came across scientific articles, yeah I dug that deep, about anything from the automotive and aerospace industries (carbon fiber) to simple concrete to military uses as ballistic armor where fiber-reinforced materials are used. (for plastics it is fiber-reinforced plastic, or FRP)... One of the more every day example is that of concrete. Concrete seems hard, but is actually considered very brittle. You can break and crack a concrete slab with a few hits with a sledgehammer. Now, if you reinforce that concrete with rebar, or even fiber mesh that is being used in a lot of places now, you may eventually "dent" or damage the surface if hit enough in the same spot, but you will have a much harder time creating that catastrophic crack. There are people that study these properties and you can find test results for that, as well as any fiber/resin composite reinforcements, where they test the resilience and strength of the materials in a testing lab. The reason I mention that is because in the concrete example, I kept telling myself that you have the ground under the concrete to act like an absorber (like the foam), but sure enough, there are people whose jobs are to test the stuff with nothing behind (or under) it. One of the tests that I found was a 24" x 24" x 4" concrete slab and a same sized slab with rebar, and another with the fiber mesh in the middle. These were all held up by 2 edges (sort of like a bridge only attached on 2 ends) and they used a press for a continuous pressure test as well as a dropped weight test. All were tested to their breaking points and obviously 2 slabs of each kind was used. The fiber mesh held together the best, the rebar was the most rigid, but its biggest strength was limited close to the rebar itself. The plain concrete failed pretty easily.
Another example would be the ballistic armor. When I found that information, it really seemed to hit home. How do you create a lightweight, super strong material that can stop projectiles? Fiber-reinforcemed plastics.... So many similarities to trying to protect our trunks from the pinball projectile to be ignored.
So I used those details, plus other information that is available online, that says that the best way to prevent something brittle from breaking is to not expose it to any stress, and the 2nd best was to prevent it from flexing. If that prevention also is bonded to the brittle material, should a crack occur, it will still hold up without chipping or losing chunks more-so than anything else.
So yeah, I over researched this stuff... Even so, I would still argue that someone using foam, which allows the most flexing of the brittle trunk, will still be very successful in significantly increasing the longevity of their trunks. Nothing can completely protect them from wear (short of a different material used for the trunk itself). I just went for a bit of overkill. Plus it gave me a good excuse to get a fiberglass kit. You would be surprised at how many uses you can find for adding fiberglass around the hour for repairs, or improved strength.
The only way that anyone would ever know how well these methods compare, under normal usage type tests, would be to get 3 identical trunks from same production runs, apply the impact reinforcement and/or absorber, and scientifically test them. Nobody is going to do that because they all seem to work just fine.
Whew. Enough rambling there. Again, that was all from my research a while back, but that does not mean that it is the end all, be all of this question and I am sure that a foamed trunk or dynamated trunk or fiberglassed trunk will all last a really long time. Almost as long as this post. LOL

So the answer is B. It's always B.

#1805 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

So the answer is B. It's always B.

The answer is buried in the question... Red pill or blue pill....

Sorry.

No there is no single correct answer. They all seem to work well.

I just was sharing the research that I did a year or whatever ago. Someone else could so the same amount of research into the foam, or Dynamat, or some other method that none of us have thought of. It was just that information that led me to *my* decision. Someone else's decision may be "foam is cheap, and I have some sitting right here" (low or no cost, super fast/easy to do, etc)... That may be their decision tree in picking that approach.

There is one thing that we know does NOT work, and that is doing nothing with the trunk.

#1806 2 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

The answer is buried in the question... Red pill or blue pill....
Sorry.
No there is no single correct answer. They all seem to work well.
I just was sharing the research that I did a year or whatever ago. Someone else could so the same amount of research into the foam, or Dynamat, or some other method that none of us have thought of. It was just that information that led me to *my* decision. Someone else's decision may be "foam is cheap, and I have some sitting right here" (low or no cost, super fast/easy to do, etc)... That may be their decision tree in picking that approach.
There is one thing that we know does NOT work, and that is doing nothing with the trunk.

Well you can just buy a new trunk when the old one gets damaged.

#1807 2 years ago

Hi guys, I am restorig ToM for my friend who is not interested in buying a brand new playfield and he prefers to restore an original one. There are also other damages - weared inserts, area around magic trunk etc. I would like to know your opinion about restoring pictured area. I think there are two ways how to do it. 1st one is to buy an overlay. Since I want to clearcoat it and vinyl overlay is quite thick I am not sure it is a good idea but it is definitely an easy way. 2nd solution is restore it using airbrush using vinyl cutted mask. I am not sure if it can be done since the letters are quite small and I do not know if the plotter can cut them. Many thanks for your advices!

IMG_3924 (resized).JPG

#1808 2 years ago

You may have better luck (more expertise) in this 'Restoration' thread...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration

I have one of those overlays (not used, just have it) and it IS fairly thick.

New playfields are $950 shipping to anywhere in the US, but they use the less desirable "Sun Process" films which are very purple looking, have lower clarity of text, and have BAD moire effect in the middle of the playfield, so too bad of quality to justify the cost in my opinion. I plan to go the route of a playfield restoration if I ever do it on mine. I just don't like the tear down, wait 3-6 months, and then try to work through the build up of the playfield after that much time has transpired. Even the best photos and videos still miss something, and still take time to go through.

Not sure that any of that helps, but I at least understand your situation, and maybe that restoration link would be helpful. It is active daily, so post your picture there and then come back with what they recommend.

#1809 2 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

You may have better luck (more expertise) in this 'Restoration' thread...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration

Just echoing nickbuol above here. That thread is the right place and others have asked this question.

I used to think I had the courage to do playfield restoration, but I'm not there. At some point I'll do a teardown and restoration of my ToM, and when I do, I'll probably send my playfield to HSA. Meanwhile, it's just too much fun to take it apart for months.

#1810 2 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Just echoing nickbuol above here. That thread is the right place and others have asked this question.
I used to think I had the courage to do playfield restoration, but I'm not there. At some point I'll do a teardown and restoration of my ToM, and when I do, I'll probably send my playfield to HSA. Meanwhile, it's just too much fun to take it apart for months.

Mirco has new ToM playfields available right now, they arent perfect but they look ok. It might be the best option, you might get one while they last.

Restorers have an very difficult time on these. if you have cracking on the trick inserts, its near impossible to do a clean touch up.

So its a toss up, lower quality repro or noticeably touched up repairs possibly at high prices.

Alternatively there do exist, a very few original cearcoated NOS playfields if you got the money to pry them loose.

#1811 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Mirco has new ToM playfields available right now, they arent perfect but they look ok. It might be the best option, you might get one while they last.
Restorers have an very difficult time on these. if you have cracking on the trick inserts, its near impossible to do a clean touch up.
So its a toss up, lower quality repro or noticeably touched up repairs possibly at high prices.
Alternatively there do exist, a very few original cearcoated NOS playfields if you got the money to pry them loose.

where?

#1813 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Mirco has new ToM playfields available right now, they arent perfect but they look ok. It might be the best option, you might get one while they last.
Restorers have an very difficult time on these. if you have cracking on the trick inserts, its near impossible to do a clean touch up.
So its a toss up, lower quality repro or noticeably touched up repairs possibly at high prices.
Alternatively there do exist, a very few original cearcoated NOS playfields if you got the money to pry them loose.

I'd take a look at HSA's ToM restorations. I think they repeatedly have shown stellar work with no signs of the repairs, if not better than original. However, it's expensive, way more than a repro. For me, I already know the answer, but each person has to weigh that themselves. I wouldn't choose to not have a restoration done because ToM playfields have any special needs.

#1814 2 years ago

As pinballinreno writes, my friend prefers noticeably touched up playfield over a brand new which here in Europe costs 1050 EUR incl. PP. He just does not want to spend that amount of money. I will look at Vids guide try my best and of course I will post pictures "now and before" restoration process. Many thanks for your advices!

3 weeks later
#1815 2 years ago

Couldn't find a topper I liked so I built my own on the cnc , might make a few more after i get done painting this one

20170611_223748 (resized).jpg

#1816 2 years ago

That looks GREAT, dude!

#1817 2 years ago

Seriously, great work.

#1818 2 years ago

Hi!
I recently got a ToM. It was put away broken. Was missing cpu and sound boards.
I bought a rotten dog cpu board.

And now the fun begins. It was blowing fuse F101 for the left flipper. I replaced 2 transistors on fliptronic board. Then the left worked.

But now when engaging left flipper and holding it in, and engaging the right flipper, the fuse F102 blows. I need some advice

#1819 2 years ago
Quoted from Kallekoma:

Hi!
I recently got a ToM. It was put away broken. Was missing cpu and sound boards.
I bought a rotten dog cpu board.
And now the fun begins. It was blowing fuse F101 for the left flipper. I replaced 2 transistors on fliptronic board. Then the left worked.
But now when engaging left flipper and holding it in, and engaging the right flipper, the fuse F102 blows. I need some advice

The coil was miswired. Working now

#1820 2 years ago

2nd version of the topper in the middle

20170618_195623 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#1821 2 years ago

Left the club today! Gonna buy my first house soon.
My first game, is now my buddy's first game. He's already thinking of getting a MMr or a GB!
Sad to see it go, but it's going to a good home down the street.

#1822 2 years ago

Hey guys,

What do you recommend for the best "trunk gold chain" mod? I've seen this one from PDI (http://www.pinballdecals.com/TOM_TrunkChainKitPage.html) but think there are also some smaller chain and lock versions out there. Any links to other options for sale would be appreciated.

Cheers,
Craig

#1823 2 years ago

I like my own (2nd attempt) DIY approach. Super cheap, and not hard to make. (From post #812 in this thread)

Quoted from nickbuol:

Finally got around to remaking my trunk chains. I had a previous design using the smallest "Master" brand brass padlock you can get, and it worked OK, but the lock was always so large, and the chain was held in place by the trunk screws.
New version sits snuggly in the trunk... The only thing holding it on is friction and the small little bumps/nubs around the gold part of the trunk. No more flopping chain! I mean who would use loose and floppy chain to lock up a magic trunk? I added some gold padlocks that are much closer to the right design, but I am still searching for slightly larger ones.
Total cost for a massive amount of chain (could probably make 3 of these and have some chain left over) and 20 little padlocks .... $12.25
I will keep my eyes open for larger padlocks so that they are the exact right size, but so far no luck.
Oh, and ignore the trunk damage. I have a real (as in REAL, not reproduction) replacement trunk all nicely stored away for the day that I (n)ever sell this machine.

a85fcca5e72c23ebd6031ee4aa3e1a9272070df4 (resized).jpg
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#1824 2 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I like my own (2nd attempt) DIY approach. Super cheap, and not hard to make. (From post #812 in this thread)

Do you have links to chain and locks for purchase?

#1825 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Do you have links to chain and locks for purchase?

Chain was from Home Depot. Just take a pair of needle nose pliers and open links as needed and then close them where needed as well.

Small locks came from, of all places, Etsy.

1 week later
#1826 2 years ago

Can anybody explain what the Pinbits Trunk Auto Eddy board does and how/where the board is installed. Was buying a bunch of stuff from Pinbits for a TOM restore I'm doing and bought this board. Don't know anything about it. Thanks for the help. -- Craig

#1827 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Can anybody explain what the Pinbits Trunk Auto Eddy board does and how/where the board is installed. Was buying a bunch of stuff from Pinbits for a TOM restore I'm doing and bought this board. Don't know anything about it. Thanks for the help. -- Craig

The stock eddy boards (for triggering Hocus Pocus magnasave) have pentiometers (sp?) that are adjusted by little knobs. These can be nudged or vibrated out of adjustment, resulting in a switch error, having to go under the playfield, and readjusting. The Pinbits Auto eddy boards adjust automatically, so you should never have to go under to readjust.

#1828 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

The stock eddy boards (for triggering Hocus Pocus magnasave) have pentiometers (sp?) that are adjusted by little knobs. These can be nudged or vibrated out of adjustment, resulting in a switch error, having to go under the playfield, and readjusting. The Pinbits Auto eddy boards adjust automatically, so you should have to ever go under to readjust.

Awesome. Thank you. So this board is just a replacement for the existing board?

#1829 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Awesome. Thank you. So this board is just a replacement for the existing board?

Yes but the mounting holes don't lineup so you will have to make new ones the board is worth every penny though and really helps the game play another thing you may want to look into is the Leon board which keeps balls from triggering the trunk while it's already spinning which can tend to cause a ball to get stuck behind thw trunk

#1830 2 years ago
Quoted from Drewblood419:

Yes but the mounting holes don't lineup so you will have to make new ones the board is worth every penny though and really helps the game play another thing you may want to look into is the Leon board which keeps balls from triggering the trunk while it's already spinning which can tend to cause a ball to get stuck behind thw trunk

thanks! I remember reading about this board. Do you have a link to where it can be purchased? Cheers, Craig

#1831 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

thanks! I remember reading about this board. Do you have a link to where it can be purchased? Cheers, Craig

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tom-trunk-error-leons-fix-anyone-done-this/page/5#post-2798647

#1832 2 years ago

If anyone is interested in my TOM topper im going to make a batch of 10 only at 75$ each . shipping is included and I'll either ship to you or modfather

Pm for orders , and I will donate to pinside per sale also

20170618_195623 (resized).jpg

#1833 2 years ago
Quoted from Evilelement:

If anyone is interested in my TOM topper im going to make a batch of 10 only at 75$ each . shipping is included and I'll either ship to you or modfather
Pm for orders , and I will donate to pinside per sale also

Do you have any photos of one of these after someone has painted it? Seems a bit of a challenge to paint. Maybe some sort of "uplighting" with colored LEDs would work, but with such a colorful machine, these light, solid colored 3D toppers beg for color.

#1834 2 years ago

New member here I haven't had time to read all of this just yet, but mine came with this cool clock tower installed and now a buddy wants one. It is back lit by a white led and has a yellow spotlight led mounted behind the launch ramp aimed at it that is tied to an insert. Any idea where it came from?
Love this game so far!

IMG_20170719_120038084 (resized).jpg

#1835 2 years ago

Hello!
I just bought a ToM

When are the 2 drain save magnets supose to save the ball?

The magnets work fine in solenoid test and the switch test. And the Eddy sensors works fine.

#1836 2 years ago
Quoted from Tjohejsan:

Hello!
I just bought a ToM
When are the 2 drain save magnets supose to save the ball?
The magnets work fine in solenoid test and the switch test. And the Eddy sensors works fine.

When you hit the hocus pocus targets on the left, the insert will light up and start to flash. When it is on/flashing, the magnet saves will work (assuming they are adjusted correctly and sensing the ball).

#1837 2 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

When you hit the hocus pocus targets on the left, the insert will light up and start to flash. When it is on/flashing, the magnet saves will work (assuming they are adjusted correctly and sensing the ball).

Thank you!
They work fine

#1838 2 years ago

Just got by Eddie board fix from German pinball . But no instructions does anyone have any for me so I can install it

IMG_0778 (resized).JPG

#1839 2 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

New member here I haven't had time to read all of this just yet, but mine came with this cool clock tower installed and now a buddy wants one. It is back lit by a white led and has a yellow spotlight led mounted behind the launch ramp aimed at it that is tied to an insert. Any idea where it came from?
Love this game so far!

It was only put on your game to count down the three weeks or so that you generally keep your games before selling them.

#1840 2 years ago
Quoted from Georgeh:

Just got by Eddie board fix from German pinball . But no instructions does anyone have any for me so I can install it

Here you go:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tom-trunk-error-leons-fix-anyone-done-this/page/10#post-2940301

#1841 2 years ago

Finally got all my brass trim pieces installed. This is how TOM should be! The brass coindoor was the final piece. All from Pinball Plating. I think I'm finally done restoring this one. Color DMD, LEDs, LED flipper buttons, all brass metal pieces, superbands, basement light.
Best looking pinball machine in my opinion

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IMG_2016 (resized).JPG

#1842 2 years ago
Quoted from doodlesdaddy:

Finally got all my brass trim pieces installed. This is how TOM should be!

Beautiful machine! Only thing left is the 3D translite, that's a real eyecatcher!
Do you have the lcd or led color dmd? I want to buy one but can't decide which one would look better in my tom.
Cheers

#1843 2 years ago
Quoted from Ben1981:

Beautiful machine! Only thing left is the 3D translite, that's a real eyecatcher!
Do you have the lcd or led color dmd? I want to buy one but can't decide which one would look better in my tom.
Cheers

I have the LCD one. Looks nice

#1844 2 years ago
Quoted from Ben1981:

Beautiful machine! Only thing left is the 3D translite, that's a real eyecatcher!
Do you have the lcd or led color dmd? I want to buy one but can't decide which one would look better in my tom.
Cheers

I have LED - no pictures/video do it justice and I love it - colours are so bright hutnbith are good. Also have the 3D translite and it's beautiful!

Neil

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#1845 2 years ago

I still want to see one of the 3D translites in person (without having to buy it first, LOL). They sound so cool, and people that have them rave about them, but (another) $200 sight unseen isn't something that I want to jump in to without seeing one first... It isn't like LEDs, or ColorDMDs, or other mods that you can "see" easily via photos or videos.

#1846 2 years ago

Anyone in Canada looking to sell one that is in excellent condition, or I have a very nice example of an Indiana Jones Pinball Adventure for trade.

PM if interested.

#1847 2 years ago
Quoted from doodlesdaddy:

Finally got all my brass trim pieces installed. This is how TOM should be! The brass coindoor was the final piece. All from Pinball Plating. I think I'm finally done restoring this one. Color DMD, LEDs, LED flipper buttons, all brass metal pieces, superbands, basement light.
Best looking pinball machine in my opinion

Missing just one final touch.....

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#1848 2 years ago

Agreed. Gold colored shooter rod ball is a really nice final touch. I personally like it better than a brassed coin door even (both visually and on by wallet). LOL

Seriously, you spent the money on everything else, get a matching shooter rod (or rod ball), or make one yourself even, and it will be the finally little "sprinkle on the cupcake."

#1849 2 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Agreed. Gold colored shooter rod ball is a really nice final touch. I personally like it better than a brassed coin door even (both visually and on by wallet). LOL
Seriously, you spent the money on everything else, get a matching shooter rod (or rod ball), or make one yourself even, and it will be the finally little "sprinkle on the cupcake."

You got me! I'll look into upgrading the ball! Where are they sold?

#1850 2 years ago
Quoted from doodlesdaddy:

You got me! I'll look into upgrading the ball! Where are they sold?

I'd have to look back in this thread, but someone here was going to make a few brass plated ones.

PinballDecals sells a rod and ball.
MezelMods sells a Mod Father gold leaf rod/ball

I bought a ball off of PinballCenter and had it shipped to the US. I was very unhappy with it as it was an applied paint with very noticeable runs in the paint job. They sent a replacement... It too was pretty bad. I then stripped the paint off of the ball that I got from them, applied a plastic specific primer spray, then a bright gold spray (without any runs), and a hard clear coat over top. It matches decently against the brass. I then switched to a "gold leaf" paint and it was a lot better match for the brass. I just had to find what looked to me to be the closest color/brand combination to the brass. I took my time, but did spend about $25 on paint after already paying for a gold ball to be shipped from Europe.

I just couldn't bring myself to spend $75 on a shooter rod, but looking back, I spent about half of that and have a painted ball instead of a solid brass one after having to re-do what others couldn't seem to get right. Looking back, not sure if I would have or should have just paid for the brass ball, but I am happy with what I have, and it is holding up very well after 8+ months (still in perfect condition).

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