Quoted from jsa:I'm curious, are there any colored incandescents?
Yes there are. I have green incandescent 555 in my trunk and a red under the right ramp magnet
Quoted from jsa:I'm curious, are there any colored incandescents?
Yes there are. I have green incandescent 555 in my trunk and a red under the right ramp magnet
Quoted from GreenMachine19:Yes there are. I have green incandescent 555 in my trunk and a red under the right ramp magnet
You're saying you have colored incandescents, but what about @miamiredskin's original machine?
Quoted from jsa:Also, I find it really interesting that the targets that sit on either side of the center ramp have no decals/stickers on them. I always wondered if they came that way.
Those "target armor" decals are definitely NOT factory. Most games don't have them. Only a very few that I know of. A large percentage of people seem to like them (and modify their machines by putting them on). I'm much more of a stock look person so I don't like them.
You mention colored lamps, my machine had a few colored plastic or rubber caps on a few of the lamps. I removed them recently when converting to LED.
Quoted from jsa:That's quite a unique machine. A time capsule, really.
I'm curious, are there any colored incandescents? It's really a rare opportunity to see how these machines were shipped. Also, I find it really interesting that the targets that sit on either side of the center ramp have no decals/stickers on them. I always wondered if they came that way.
Quoted from MajorHavoc:You mention colored lamps, my machine had a few colored plastic or rubber caps on a few of the lamps. I removed them recently when converting to LED.
My goal with the question is I'm curious what the intent of the designer was with lamp colors. For example, I've seen MANY ToMs with green LEDs beneath the Melpomene and Thalia masks by the jets (tragedy and comedy faces).
It was curious to me, because clearly they are yellow inserts, so why do people make them green?
Then it occurred to me, perhaps the original incandescents were colored (or had colored plastic on them), and now we've lost record of that original coloring.
I'm big on trying to recapture intent. Color matching LEDs does that to some extent because we assume the color is the same. However, examples like this one or even GI get lost to time.
Quoted from jsa:I've seen MANY ToMs with green LEDs beneath the Melpomene and Thalia masks by the jets (tragedy and comedy faces).
It was curious to me, because clearly they are yellow inserts, so why do people make them green?
Then it occurred to me, perhaps the original incandescents were colored (or had colored plastic on them), and now we've lost record of that original coloring.
I purchased (restored then sold) a TOM from a container. It was clear that the lighting was not modified. Those two inserts above the jet bumper area were green condom covered regular bulbs. Just like the bulb in the trunk.
Quoted from DumbAss:I purchased (restored then sold) a TOM from a container. It was clear that the lighting was not modified. Those two inserts above the jet bumper area were green condom covered regular bulbs. Just like the bulb in the trunk.
Ok I see what you mean. Yes I had clear lamps with green rubber caps on them. I converted to LED and put in green LED's when I restored the machine. It was obvious to me that those bulbs were original when I removed them. It appeared to me that previous owners never went past the easy to get to areas for cleaning.
Quoted from DumbAss:I purchased (restored then sold) a TOM from a container. It was clear that the lighting was not modified. Those two inserts above the jet bumper area were green condom covered regular bulbs. Just like the bulb in the trunk.
That is how mine was before I converted to LEDs.
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:Maybe 1 out of 100 times. A gentle slap shakes it out
Mine happens 1 out of 3 or 4 times...and i have to wait for 3-5 ball searches, or take off the glass.
Good thing i cant hit the right ramp for the life of me
Quoted from forensicd:joined the club! Quick question. What detects when the ball goes into the trunk? I am having no problems at all with the game detecting hitting the trunk, but not when it goes in to start modes, jackpots, etc.
The optical sensor in the rear of the trunk only normally detects ball entering from the back of the trunk, when the entrance hole is at the back. The shot directly from the flippers to the trunk entrance e.g. the 'start illusion' shot is detected by the first rollover microswitch in the trunk subway. Replace the switch.
Quoted from fiberdude120:Are your balls magnetized? I would check that first.
They are probably slightly magnetized, but it eventually falls out of the spirit ring if im patient enough.
I'm curious, looking at my upper ramp, it appears to be designed to have a long hex post to support the ramp. What do other people have going on here? Do you have a support? Or an unused slot on the ramp, hovering over a post that ends a couple inches below?
IMG_20170429_110203973 (resized).jpg
Quoted from EvanDickson:I'm curious, looking at my upper ramp, it appears to be designed to have a long hex post to support the ramp. What do other people have going on here? Do you have a support? Or an unused slot on the ramp, hovering over a post that ends a couple inches below?
You are missing a post for support. Mine TOM has a post there.
Quoted from fiberdude120:You are missing a post for support. Mine TOM has a post there.
Good to know for sure, thanks!
I've finished sprucing up my TOM. Stripped it bare, cleaned, waxed, and reassembled with new rubbers, plastics, protectors, cliffys, flippers, purple titan Flipper rings, new trunk, pinbits auto eddy sensor boards, LED throughout incl GI, replaced a burned GI connector, replaced and handful of borked light sockets, dismantled and cleaned trunk motor and gears, and probably stuff I'm forgetting. It plays like a million dollars. I've never seen the trunk spin so fast, and I've literally never seen another pin play so fast.
Pretty pumped.
I recently added a ColorDMD-LED and OCD board to my TOM. Immediately after the installation the pin was fine. After about 50 plays I'm now having an issue where the screen freezes and the machine resets. The screen doesn't freeze on the same frame each time and I can't detect a pattern for when the machine stops working. When this happens, all lighting remains on. I'm stumped. Thoughts or suggestions?
Quoted from Frogman:I recently added a ColorDMD-LED and OCD board to my TOM. Immediately after the installation the pin was fine. After about 50 plays I'm now having an issue where the screen freezes and the machine resets. The screen doesn't freeze on the same frame each time and I can't detect a pattern for when the machine stops working. When this happens, all lighting remains on. I'm stumped. Thoughts or suggestions?
Is the whole machine resetting or just they display?
Quoted from jyeakley:Is the whole machine resetting or just they display?
before you do that frogman. on the boards in the backbox, reseat the connectors.
when mine did this, both flippers at the same time would trigger it often.
Neil.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:before you do that frogman. on the boards in the backbox, reseat the connectors.
when mine did this, both flippers at the same time would trigger it often.
Neil.
Has anyone installed a playfield protector? How hard is it to put on ToM?
Does anyone know where to get new wire habitrails?
Thanks!
Quoted from Frogman:I recently added a ColorDMD-LED and OCD board to my TOM. Immediately after the installation the pin was fine. After about 50 plays I'm now having an issue where the screen freezes and the machine resets. The screen doesn't freeze on the same frame each time and I can't detect a pattern for when the machine stops working. When this happens, all lighting remains on. I'm stumped. Thoughts or suggestions?
Same thing happened to me when I added a Pinduino (on top of the ColorDMD, motorized saw, etc) and it was more than the TOM could take.
It is due to a limited 5v source for all of the "goodies" that we all add.
Could be that something is going bad, but more than likely it is just too much of a draw on the 5v source than the machine can handle and then it resets.
Easiest solution is to buy a small plug-and-play board specifically made for this problem $29 fixed my problem...
Quoted from nickbuol:Same thing happened to me when I added a Pinduino (on top of the ColorDMD, motorized saw, etc) and it was more than the TOM could take.
It is due to a limited 5v source for all of the "goodies" that we all add.
Could be that something is going bad, but more than likely it is just too much of a draw on the 5v source than the machine can handle and then it resets.
Easiest solution is to buy a small plug-and-play board specifically made for this problem $29 fixed my problem...
http://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html
I think that the power problems with all of the add-on mods should be solved by adding a switched receptacle to the service/convenience outlet and adding seperate power thru an adapter for the mods.
Its a quick and easy fix and you would have near unlimited power for low voltage mods.
Quoted from nickbuol:Same thing happened to me when I added a Pinduino (on top of the ColorDMD, motorized saw, etc) and it was more than the TOM could take.
It is due to a limited 5v source for all of the "goodies" that we all add.
Could be that something is going bad, but more than likely it is just too much of a draw on the 5v source than the machine can handle and then it resets.
Easiest solution is to buy a small plug-and-play board specifically made for this problem $29 fixed my problem...
http://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html
Yea, I'm likely going to add this too at some point. Mine does it pretty rarely but enough that it pisses the kids off in the middle of a game. Since the other games don't do it and this one has the spinning tigersaw, it has to be the saw drawing a little too much power at times I would guess.
Quoted from Robl45:Yea, I'm likely going to add this too at some point. Mine does it pretty rarely but enough that it pisses the kids off in the middle of a game. Since the other games don't do it and this one has the spinning tigersaw, it has to be the saw drawing a little too much power at times I would guess.
I did two things to eliminate these issues. First, I had my power driver board "cleaned up" by a professional. This eliminated the resets. Second, I installed one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DFCOW6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage
I use this for my 5v mods. I'm sure there is something better out there.
I think the power driver board should be able to handle all these mods, though.
Tom return lane flashers are not working
I have 20 v at the flashers but they don't flash . Anyone have any ideas . All other flashers work
ok, so finally got my brass back and put together my TOM. My spirit ring however does not pull the ball off of the habitrail though, it only pulls it enough to knock it back onto the playfield. This is the 2nd magnet I have tried. All other magnets in the game work perfect, and the switch that activates it works fine. If i push the ball over a slight bit, it will suck the ball up into the ring. Any ideas?
It pretty much can only go one place I think? Does anyone know the exact number for the part number of the magnet
Quoted from forensicd:It pretty much can only go one place I think? Does anyone know the exact number for the part number of the magnet
What type of pinballs are you using? Some people like the plated ones (specifically gold) that dont work with the magnets! Also, some of the high end pinballs wont work!
Quoted from forensicd:Does anyone know the exact number for the part number of the magnet
Page #2 of the manual (the PDF) or page #3-5 of the manual.
Part number is 20-10179.
Quoted from fiberdude120:Are your balls magnetized? I would check that first.
Mine are blue, I'm married.
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Anyone have any tips to reinforce the trunk? I'm probably going to get a new one and want to make it chip resistant and I've looked into fiberglass filler. Something really easy that I can spread on, let harden and be done with it. I know there's the silicon trunk being developed but don't want to wait too long for it.
I must be really lucky. I've had the same trunk from when I bought the game about 3 to 4 years ago. Our family plays it almost everyday. Not a single chip.
I went the fiberglass kit method and put it on the bottom couple of inches on all sides (inside the trunk obviously). Between the resin and the fiberglass sheets, it is rock solid and should hold together pretty well... The foam tape has been the method people used for a long time, but I never tried it. The fiberglass method costs a little more (kit runs about $15) and takes a little more time, but it was still easy and pretty quick (minus the curing time).
Not sure which is the longest lasting method, and the science behind both makes good sense. One absorbs some of the pinball impact and the other strengthens the trunk. Maybe a combination of both would be possible, who knows.
Quoted from nickbuol:I went the fiberglass kit method and put it on the bottom couple of inches on all sides (inside the trunk obviously). Between the resin and the fiberglass sheets, it is rock solid and should hold together pretty well... The foam tape has been the method people used for a long time, but I never tried it. The fiberglass method costs a little more (kit runs about $15) and takes a little more time, but it was still easy and pretty quick (minus the curing time).
Not sure which is the longest lasting method, and the science behind both makes good sense. One absorbs some of the pinball impact and the other strengthens the trunk. Maybe a combination of both would be possible, who knows.
The issue with the trunk chipping is that as the soft plastic trunk ages, it hardens. As that happens, it can cause chipping. If you make the trunk harder, it absorbs even less shock, so you may be encouraging chipping.
For this reason, I installed dynomat inside my trunk bottom inside to absorb as much of the shock as possible. If/when the trunk gets too hard, I'm not sure there is much I can do outside of replacing it.
my friend just got a tom. the hocus pocus flashes when you hit the target but the outlane magnets arent saving the ball. It seems to throw them a bit in test mode. Any ideas where to look? thanks for any help
Quoted from Kahanaohana:my friend just got a tom. the hocus pocus flashes when you hit the target but the outlane magnets arent saving the ball. It seems to throw them a bit in test mode. Any ideas where to look? thanks for any help
Hmm, by throw them a bit you mean it actually repels the ball? If so, it sounds like reversed polarity. That would be odd. Take a photo of the wiring beneath and see if you notice anything.
Questions about the magnet save.
I have seen the magnets on the side marginally save my balls. I might have 2 types of balls accidentally. But my question is:
Is there a ball type not to use or it it just working as intended.
Thanks. I kind of like the fact that it doesn't grab it every time perfectly. I've seen it work stronger on others but mine seems fine.
I would troubleshoot more but I have trouble even getting under the hood right now,
Just wondering. On the magnet strength. I will change all balls soon, but which to use? On theater specifically.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/theatre-of-magic-club/page/36?hl=robl45 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.