I've had a ToM for many years an have never noticed this problem. Will have to check it out on mine. Thank guys

let me put the question out again but getting to the point.
after vanishing the ball, is the ball supposed to come out during trunk multiball if you hadn't used tigersaw multiball yet?

if player 1 vanishes and drains, can player 2 use the previous players vanished ball during their trunk multiball?

I understand the first one, but the second.. why does it give player 2, player 1's ball if player 2 hadn't vanished the ball yet? I wanted to know if this was something else I needed to look into.

I know someone posted about how they installed their LED OCD into a TOM but now I can't find it! Anyone??? The poster had pics and what not showing how he installed it and it was a little different then what comes with the instructions!

dup

its pretty similar to

I watched that then installed it on my NGG then my TOM with no problem.
the only difference was how the dmd mounted to the panel.

WPC needs power from a different place that's was another difference now that I think of it. but everything else is basically the same

http://www.colordmd.com/Assembly%20for%20Instructions%20WPC%20CHROMA%20rev1.PDF

gotcha, that's weird

hocuslocus if your post was in response to my question I was looking for OCD LED not the ColorDMD.

ahhhh. sorry misread the post, yeah I installed a led & GI ocd on my NGG but not on my TOM yet.

Yeah and I just seen the other day a post where someone installed it on their TOM and have some really good pics and insight damned if I didn't add it to my favorites and now I cant find the bloody post!!

Found it https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gi-ocd-installation-into-my-tom-mini-review

That install/review is probably the easiest for people to see the flicker of the GI when converting to LEDs. I had been "unsure of what I was looking at" when I switched to LEDs that when people kept saying "the LED GI OCD board is a must" that I didn't know what they were talking about....

I will say this, with the Pinduino in place, you don't really notice the flickering dimming of the GI as it is active. I did look really close and can see the flickering dimming amidst the Pinduino activity, but not enough for $150 for me. If I didn't have the Pinduino, then I think that I would finally be convinced the I would want/need the GI OCD board.

I tried to make a video a while back, but without a high speed capture and lens, it was super hard to show on video what it looks like in real life.

I just scored 4.5 billion on TOM and was curious to see where that was compared to others. I think second place was 12 billion and I could see hitting that someday maybe. First place was 111 billion... not saying I don't believe it, but seems like to score that you would be on the game for 4-5 hours. It's easier to keep the ball in play on TOM then most other games, but still. Regardless you would have to be pretty good at pinball in order to score that and the players other scores on other games weren't as great. Guess I'm just a skeptic, maybe it was entered in wrong.

Mine is a drain monster. GC score on mine us under 3bills.

I think my best ever is something like 2.5B, but I'm too lazy to look it up. 4.5B is a really fantastic score. 12B may or may not be real - when you consider a pool of 1000's of players playing 1000's of games, statistically may have happened. 111B is total fantasy land, no way that's real.

3.5 billion is my best. 12 billion is within the realm of possibility, but you'd have to hit wizard mode 4 times and complete it a least a couple of those. 12 billion would be a lengthy game. 111 billion - you'd there all day. Maybe not if you took the glass off though.

Yeah, that's kind of what I thought when I saw that score. It's got to be a typo. 12B, I could see maybe possibly happening though.
When I hit the Grand Finale my score was at 3.2B. I just happened to have two balls on the table because of tiger saw multiball. before I knew it GF was finished, both balls were still in play and my score was at 4.1B or so. That was the fastest billion points I've scored on that game. When I say easier to keep it in play, I compare it to a game like NGG or WOZ even. on TOM the ball is moving pretty fast so when its in trouble you only have to nudge it slightly. with NGG you basically have to use a warning since the ball is moving slower. WOZ with that infamous left outlane, I hate that outlane. Every game I have at least one ball that fly's down there within 20 seconds.

4.5 billion is my highest.
I finshed all the tricks twice and got the 1 billion on the first wizard mode, failed to do it on the second one.
Stock settings with ball saver enabled 6.5 degree PF pitch.

Maybe some one already knows. Does anyone know the specifics on the trunk motor? It says 12 vdc 20 rpm. I'm guessing that must be the output of the gearbox. Looking for the rpm rating of just the motor. To maybe find a suitable replacement. I already purchased one from kimballs pinballs, the gear is smaller than stock. The output shaft is smaller than stock. When I install it in my gearbox it slips because of the gear size. If I can find a suitable replacement COTS, I can put my stock output shaft gear on it. I already had a full replacement unit that's in service now but would like to refurb my original to keep as a spare.

I've done a little research and the closest I've been able to locate so far is RC car motors. I'm guessing approx. 4500 rpm? Based on powering up my Kimballs version of the motor on the bench. I wouldn't expect him to spill the secret he is selling his for 50 or 80 dollars I can't remember. Currently this is the only place to find just the motor which I cannot get to work. The output shaft of stock is somewhere between 2.3 to 2.34 mm. The kimballs version is very close but the ID of the stock gear is slightly larger the its output shaft. Because of this the stock gear slides right over the output shaft and spins freely, no good. This would all be a no never mind if the kimballs output shaft gear had a larger OD so that it wouldn't slip.

Parallel path. Has anyone had success "cleaning" out the stock motor, or is it simply worn out. Bench testing of the stock 1995 motor revealed sluggish action, noisy, crunchy for the first few seconds of operation if that makes any sense. I did a side be side test ands it's clear the issue is the motor not the gearbox. I previously regreased the gearbox with the superlube. And did it again when it would stick half way during test games after the resto. I assume there is a watchdog timer associated with the optos where if it doesn't "see" the next switch it disables the trunk action. Game assumes the trunk is jammed and tries to prevent damage to the game. It also produces an odor when spooling up on the bench, like an old drill motor. Don't know if this is recoverable or not. I am considering tossing it in the ultra sonic cleaner with some purple power to see if I can get any more life out of it.

I will share anything I can figure out. My goal is to come up with an affordable, working solution. I could just buy another gearbox/motor combo as they are still available but at $280 plus shipping this is just crazy. I have a motor coming that I got for about $6 on eBay. I will update in this thread unless the club thinks it belongs in its own thread. And if I'm retracing anyone else's steps please chime in.

One day, I will be able to join this club.

Me and my best friend both agree that this is one of the greatest pins ever made. I fell in love with it the first time I saw it back in '95 or '96.

We almost bought one (I had most of the $ but was short, sowe were gonna split it) off eBay back in 2000/2001, but we didn't. Now looking at the going rate, I really wish we would have.

One day, I will join all you fine people.

Do a web search for small DC motors. These are commonly used in rechargeable hand drills.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/DC-Motors/DC-Motors-Face-Mount/13-6-VDC-4575-RPM-MOTOR-10-2465.axd

This looks close. I found the 6 dollar motor on eBay. It's for RC cars and specs a 2.3 mm output shaft OD. I also looked at the stock a little closer and see what looks like homemade "splines" using a very small sharp chisel to slightly deform the shaft to make it a little bigger. If I can find the right chisel at work, and the guts to attempt it, I may do this to the Kimballs version of the motor I have in hand. Really 3 ways to fix this. Find a new motor that I can press the gear on. Find a new gear that fits the motor I have. Or modify the motor I have to except the stock output shaft gear. I've also thought of maybe tinning the shaft to add a little meat to it. Not sure which is the best way to go.

The "splined shaft" is what you are referring to. Those splines raise the surface of the shaft, giving it a slightly larger outside diameter. The shaft base diameter is the bore size of the gear, and the splines give it an interference fit, keeping the gear intact when maximum torque is applied. There really is no substitute, except for maybe a roll pin drilled thru a portion of the shaft - although the drilled hole would somewhat weaken the shaft.

Try the spline technique, holding the shaft in a V block and applying a chisel to spread the metal. If you're careful, it'll work.

still looking for a set of wire ramps - let me know what you have..

I just can't imagine this is a viable option

I'm making a guess that the original motor was splined by hand at the factory based on its appearance. I think I will attempt this on the cheap motor I have coming in.

I'm a new TOM owner, am doing some fix-up work, and need to replace a broken plastic that's supposed to be secured to the right ramp. The plastic is totally clear - no ink. Is there a way to purchase a generic clear plastic or one that's designed for that location, but not purchasing an entire plastics set? I've checked some of the major online sources, but mostly see just the kits.

I don't think you can buy the specific plastic that you broke without a kit, but there have been for sale sheets of plastic you could cut/shape. Which plastic is it exactly?

You may be able to find that single plastic at Bay Area Amusements:
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=GS-2845

The piece you're looking for is out of stock:
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-TOM7

You will also need some plastic snap-in standoffs, 1/4 in. Not sure where you go for those.

Pinballdecals may have the plastics set

http://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/TOM_Page.html

I got mine from Pinbits. Send them an email; they do custom lasercut clears on request if you ask super nice.

Edit:

They are here:

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_33&products_id=218&zenid=3895d9d890c8fcfbbb5b678705e71d9e

Thanks for the suggestions - I'll report back if I have success.

Hello!
I just found/joined Pinside and I'm excited to read all the helpful info here! My ToM has recently started "acting up" and I know I'll find answers here!

Trunk motor update:
Disassembled stock trunk motor. Cleaned the inside using low VOC lectra clean to prevent the destruction of the plastic end bell. Reassembled motor. Tip: either match mark end bell to motor case before disassembly. Or do a bump test to verify polarity. 90 degrees out will cause it to spin backwards. Performed a before and after test using a stroboscope. Before noisy and crunchy. After purrs like a kitten. Almost zero noise. And gained some RPMs. I took it apart because I wanted to know what was wrong. I think if you didn't want to take it apart you could just flush it with the lectra clean and be ok.

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Hello Pinsiders, I'm new to repairing pinball machines and I could use some help with my newly acquired ToM.

----My first issue is a ground short row 5 white-green R5. I've unplugged the row and column from the bottom of the CPU board and turned the game on and the ground short goes away. I guess this tell me that I have a playfield issue. Is there a way to find out which switch the white-green wire goes to so I can trace it out?

---I found a wire that was exposed and grounding out on one of the arms. I taped it up and my ground short is still present. Could this have been the cause of the ground short?

---Second issue is my trunk opto board or wiring seems to be malfunctioning. The machine has a Great Lakes Modular opto board installed but opto4 is always open. When I interrupt the opto4 signal, it still shows open when it should be closed. I've send an email and a Facebook message to Great Lakes in hopes of sending the board in for repair if needed but I've received no reply. I've also unplugged the trunk opto board to see if that was the ground short problem but the ground short is still there when unplugged. Could this be a wiring issue?

---With the opto board error, the trunk had spun continuously causing the wiring that runs through the trunk to twist and break. I've seen references to a trunk stop http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-19933 It looks like my trunk doesn't have this piece. Is this piece an OEM part that should be in the machine? How do the wires keep from twisting when the trunk rotates so this doesn't happen again? I'm assuming that when I get the opto board fixed, this issue will resolve itself...

---The OEM plastic interrupter is cracked near the screw that secures it to the shaft. I ordered an aluminum interrupter to replace it.

---J121 has been burnt and it looks like someone used electrical taps to get power for the GI from the other pins. Is this an OK fix or should I fix it properly with a new header pin and connector?

I'm having fun learning about this machine and hopefully I can get it up and running with your help

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If you opt to take it apart you'll need a paper clip to hold open the brush support spring arms. This is probably all I needed to do and this would probably work fine. I'm still interested in locating an affordable option to just replace with new so the research continues. The kimballs motor pulls 4100 rpm on the scope with exactly 12vdc. The stock is approx. 3500 rpm. Remember this is 22 years old. I found an Epson printer motor that would probably work spins at 3400. I know that when I put in my spare gearbox the trunk moved noticeably faster during gameplay. I've also found there is 2 different versions of gearbox floating around because I have both.

If you're still looking for the plastic on the right ramp, I have a few. Also the left ramp:
ToM-ramp_guards (resized).jpg

For some reason the left plastic goes yellow, more often than the other clear plastics. Must be the material...I've seen it happen a few times. Check yours out.

Has anyone ever seen a TOM playfield that was heavy on the purple coloration at the bottom near the flippers? All I have seen (including my own) is more red than this. I was told that these images are supposed to be WMS correct as this was made with verified PMS color codes (whatever that means). Thoughts?

PurpleClose (resized).jpg
Full (resized).jpg

from those pics i agree it looks very purple, from ipdb - however red notorious colour to get good digital pics on so might be worth at a different angle - light also very different.

image-33-2 (resized).jpg

actually look at the magician ship...

Yeah, MAGICIANSHIP went was yellow on the non-prototype and I believe the bottom is red:

IMG_5639 (resized).JPG

The images I posted were from Mirco's (High Class Pinball's) reproduction. Mine is much more red, but does have a hint of a blend to a purple-ish color, but not like the reproduction.

I am sure that someone who isn't paying that much attention wouldn't notice that it is different.

The other issue that I am seeing is that there is a good amount of moire effect with the dotted gradient above the M and A in MAGIC. I asked if that was just the way that his camera picked it up, and he admitted that it was that way in "original films" that he had.

Here is a shot of the moire. I'm not trying to be critical, but I was really hoping for a great reproduction playfield, and to have these 2 large sections not seem or be correct. (You might have to click on the image to see the larger version of it and the moire more clearly.)
TOM-moire (resized).jpg

I was wanting to buy this if/when it ever became available because I have the badly raised and chipped up "A" in MAGIC on my machine. (any other "defects" on my image showing my "A" are either reflections or a bit of dirt as that was from many years ago). The machine plays fine, but if any of you have been following me here, you know that I have pretty much restored just about every aspect of my TOM but the playfield. That said, for $950 shipped to my door, I would have liked to have a reproduction playfield that didn't have moire and that wasn't so "purple."
toma (resized).jpg

What are your thoughts? Leave it with the damaged "A" (and other normal wear and tear like slightly raised "illusion" inserts) but otherwise good condition, or spend almost a grand and get the above mentioned reproduction playfield with what seems to be an otherwise flawless playfield and nicely clear-coated?

I think the purple to red gradation on the Mirco looks really nice. The loss of midtones in the halftone area is a bit of a bummer, but that wear make on your A is more of a bummer

Seeing as this machine is your only one I'd treat yourself! Assuming you're OK with doing the swap yourself or paying somebody to do it for you? I have a repro PF in my Addams Family and it's magical. I'm very close to pulling the trigger on this myself, such a great game!