(Topic ID: 43909)

Theatre of Magic Club


By Nilroc

6 years ago



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There are 2881 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 58.
#1251 3 years ago
Quoted from GreenMachine19:

Some restore pics just added Reese Rails. I polish every piece of visible metal ( I'm addicted to it). Nearly complete just have to finish the trunk. Adding the Ingo board. All new cool sleeves , cointaker leds etc. made a repair to the trunk base bracket adding reinforcement since mine was broken.

Agreed, looking great. Your efforts will be worth it.

#1252 3 years ago

Hey ToM owners, is your trunk magnet flush with the sides of the trunk or is it sort of spilling out of the trunk and not aligned or flush with it? I'll take pictures of mine later if needed. I took the trunk off and tried to adjust the magnet but it doesn't really adjust. The trunk seems like it's maybe a few mm too high but since it's mounted on those long posts there's also nothing to adjust to lower it.

Also any suggestions for making the trunk itself more durable? This is HUO and still the trunk is getting obliterated.

#1253 3 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Hey ToM owners, is your trunk magnet flush with the sides of the trunk or is it sort of spilling out of the trunk and not aligned or flush with it? I'll take pictures of mine later if needed. I took the trunk off and tried to adjust the magnet but it doesn't really adjust. The trunk seems like it's maybe a few mm too high but since it's mounted on those long posts there's also nothing to adjust to lower it.
Also any suggestions for making the trunk itself more durable? This is HUO and still the trunk is getting obliterated.

Honestly, my trunk get's obliterated as well. I just replace it every year, only thing is they're kinda expensive for how easily they break. I would love to know if anyone had a tip on making them more robust.

#1254 3 years ago
Quoted from KyleCat:

I would love to know if anyone had a tip on making them more robust.

This guy figured it out. Fiberglass. I have followed his lead and had virtually no wear after several years.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/theatre-of-magic-trunk-repair#post-2629

#1255 3 years ago
Quoted from KyleCat:

Honestly, my trunk get's obliterated as well. I just replace it every year, only thing is they're kinda expensive for how easily they break. I would love to know if anyone had a tip on making them more robust.

I have always put some foam weatherstripping under the lips of the trunk. Works great - no chipping, can't see it, doesn't alter the bounce much, and it is cheap!

#1256 3 years ago
Quoted from caker137:

This guy figured it out. Fiberglass. I have followed his lead and had virtually no wear after several years.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/theatre-of-magic-trunk-repair#post-2629

Since I have been working on fixing all sorts of things with my TOM, I was thinking that it was about time to put in the new trunk that I bought a few years ago. I came across some other posts about people using super strong tape (like Gorilla Tape), foam tape, and the above mentioned fiberglass.

It seems like the fiberglass was the longest lasting, but I never looked into where to get the supplies to do it.

I looked online at places like Lowes, and you can get the 4oz fiberglass, but then need the polyester resin and hardener. It comes to about $30 plus tax.

Amazon sells a kit from "Ding All" but it only does a small 4-6" square area, and not enough for a full trunk. It runs $16.

There is a 3M product that has all of the key pieces, but it doesn't say the fiberglass weight is (since the guy from the link above used 2 layers of 4oz). I found out elsewhere that there is 3 sqft of fiberglass material with the kit though... This kit also runs just around $16 via Amazon (about $22 or so at your local auto parts store). https://amzn.com/B000BO9NOO

So anyone with fiberglassing experience, do you think that this 3M kit would work. caker137, what did you use and where did you get the components?

#1257 3 years ago

On a different note, the decals are all (finally) installed and the cabinet is back up on its new brass legs.

I even managed to get the playfield back in the cabinet, although it is a long way from being done.

What you don't see is the set of metal leg brackets that are installed and then I covered those with a layer of black felt so that the legs themselves aren't touching the metal brackets, and nothing is touching the new decals (I cut around the brackets about 2mm, removed the brackets, and then removed that part of the decal. I then put the brackets back on and attached them with the screws provided.)
535-0599-00 (resized).jpg

Here are some pictures of the cabinet decals installed.

front (resized).jpg
left (resized).jpg
right (resized).jpg
edgecloseup (resized).jpg
pfbackin (resized).jpg

#1258 3 years ago

Looking good!

#1259 3 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

what did you use and where did you get the components?

Walmart in the automotive section. One thing I haven't seen mentioned that I did is to score the inside of the trunk with an exacto so the polyester resin has somewhere to grab.

C

#1260 3 years ago

I just finished mine I put a layer of plastic weld 3500 psi Epoxy then I laid it down fiberglass mesh in it then covered all of that in JB Weld I'm guessing it's not going to break for a long time LOL

#1261 3 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Yeah, that is what I got originally. The ball had major runs in the "paint" or clear coat". It was bad enough that they sent me another ball for free (from Germany for those that don't know). It had a smaller, but still noticeable, "run" in it and even worse it had a couple of spots (literally) where there was no gold at all and you could see the black from the plastic ball underneath. They included a hand written note in the box for the 2nd one saying that it is "not possible to make them any better than this." Highly disappointing...
It was the second one that I did my paint job on the other day, so I still have the first one from them. As I noted above, I am not happy with how the paint looked, well, like gold paint vs. the metallic shiny look on the lid of the can.

Thanks for the heads up I'm canceling my order before it ships. What I think I'm going to try is taking a spare shooter rod I have here and remove the knob on it. Then thread the shooter rod to fit one of these polished brass ball handles from McMaster-Carr (probably 1-3/8) I'll probably hit the ball with clear too.

IMG_4667 (resized).PNG

#1262 3 years ago
Quoted from Drewblood419:

Thanks for the heads up I'm canceling my order before it ships. What I think I'm going to try is taking a spare shooter rod I have here and remove the knob on it. Then thread the shooter rod to fit one of these polished brass ball handles from McMaster-Carr (probably 1-3/8) I'll probably hit the ball with clear too.

Probably a good (or at least better) idea...

So which 1-3/8" works with a standard threaded shooter rod?

1 3/8" Diameter BRASS
1/4"-20 5/8" 60215K61 $9.32
5/16"-18 5/8" 60215K63 $9.32
5/16"-24 5/8" 60215K64 $9.32
3/8"-16 5/8" 60215K65 $9.32
3/8"-24 5/8" 60215K66 $9.32
7/16"-20 5/8" 60215K67 $9.32
1/2"-13 5/8" 60215K68 $9.32
1/2"-20 5/8" 60215K69 $9.32

#1263 3 years ago

Not sure yet the threaded shooter rod is metric thread and the knobs are standard. The spare shooter I have is going to have to be threaded because it has a splined end not threads(there's different versions) luckily I have access to a tap and die set here's the link to the threaded one:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9253

#1264 3 years ago

It worked out well it's a bit heavy so I guess it's time for some play testing

IMG_4671 (resized).JPG

#1265 3 years ago

Sooooo... What one did you get and what hoops did you have to go through to put it all together?

#1266 3 years ago

I had to thread the rod to match the ball knob. I'm thinking about making a batch of them up for folks if they want. So far it plays great and the extra weight makes it feel more solid for sure. It's raw brass so I'm debating on clearing it but not sure if it would be worth it or not or how easily it will tarnish

IMG_4674 (resized).JPG

IMG_4672 (resized).JPG

#1267 3 years ago

Hi there just got my hands on a TOM which is in good condition but need to do some work on the flippers which are a little week and need to also check the EOS switch but happy with the machine.

IMG_20161106_132638 (resized).jpg

#1268 3 years ago
Quoted from Drewblood419:

I had to thread the rod to match the ball knob. I'm thinking about making a batch of them up for folks if they want. So far it plays great and the extra weight makes it feel more solid for sure. It's raw brass so I'm debating on clearing it but not sure if it would be worth it or not or how easily it will tarnish

It looks so much nicer than the stock grey one, and I bet the weight feels nice.

I'd be in the market for one. I can clear coat it myself.

#1269 3 years ago
Quoted from JasonJoe:

Hi there just got my hands on a TOM which is in good condition but need to do some work on the flippers which are a little week and need to also check the EOS switch but happy with the machine.

Looks like you got one in nice condition with a few nice mods.

Check the flipper solenoids. When I bought my TOM, the previous owner had replaced the solenoids with weaker ones for whatever reason. It was really hard to make ramp shots unless hit perfectly. Once I put in the correct ones (I don't know what ones off the top of my head), the game really came to life.

#1270 3 years ago

Getting closer. I did take the time last night to straighten out a large plastic that had some harsh buckle in it, cleaned the playfield, and even waxed it. While I was working on it, I decided that it was time to clean the subway underneath. It was SOOOO dirty, that I thought that it was made with smoked plastic. Now it is super clean. I actually thought about flame polishing it, but that seemed silly for a subway piece.

TOM-Subway (resized).jpg

I put the glass on to keep dust out. Hoping to get the Pinduino pieces installed tonight on to the plastic ramps, plus the brass ramp flaps, and get those back in. Then it will be connecting all of the electronic connections over the next few days while I wait for the last of my brass pieces to come back from Woody.
TOM-Status (resized).jpg

#1271 3 years ago

For those of you that have replaced ramp flaps, any tips on using tubular rivets? I have the ramp flap kit from pinbits that came with the "Pressless rivets" but I am having the darnedest time getting it to work. I am thinking that it is because I had the rivets brassed (and I assume that they were clear coated, but the washers and "rivet clips" were not plated) and they are just a little thicker than the rivet clips are designed for.

I can eventually get a clip on, but it is loose and just slides back off.

I am going to try sanding off the clear and brass from the part that you can't see, but I just didn't know if someone else has done something easier?

I only have 6 rivets total to do, so I don't want to spend a lot on a press or something. I was thinking of a rivet "round over" tool or whatever you call them, but I can only seem to find them online and I don't want to wait for shipping. Wasn't sure if a craft store would have something that would work? Just looking for ideas as these "pressless" ones aren't working.

Any thoughts?

#1272 3 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

For those of you that have replaced ramp flaps, any tips on using tubular rivets? I have the ramp flap kit from pinbits that came with the "Pressless rivets" but I am having the darnedest time getting it to work. I am thinking that it is because I had the rivets brassed (and I assume that they were clear coated, but the washers and "rivet clips" were not plated) and they are just a little thicker than the rivet clips are designed for.
I can eventually get a clip on, but it is loose and just slides back off.
I am going to try sanding off the clear and brass from the part that you can't see, but I just didn't know if someone else has done something easier?
I only have 6 rivets total to do, so I don't want to spend a lot on a press or something. I was thinking of a rivet "round over" tool or whatever you call them, but I can only seem to find them online and I don't want to wait for shipping. Wasn't sure if a craft store would have something that would work? Just looking for ideas as these "pressless" ones aren't working.
Any thoughts?

Well, after a lot of time spent trying to find semi-tubular rivet clinching tools that weren't expensive, and even looking for hand rolling tools for rivets, I decided to grab my Dremel with a fine grit sandpaper wheel. I started at a slow speed and with a light touch. It really didn't seem to be doing much, and was tricky to do because of the small size of the rivets. Then I decided to do something different. I had been using a 2x4 under the ramp (flipped upside down) and I could see that the rivet heads were going into the wood.

I simply switched out the 2x4 with a piece of metal (an 18" metal level that I got from my dad some 15 years ago). Using the pressless rivets, everything worked with just a few taps. It was so easy. I can't believe how many hours of time I wasted looking things up online (how to videos as well as tool buying research) as well as going to 4 different stores locally today without any good luck. I did find a "star" rivet tool at Hobby Lobby, but that isn't what I wanted. Instead of just getting these ramps done tonight just after midnight (keep in mind that I also worked on this last night from about midnight until just after 3am), I would have the ramps installed now, and moved on to a lot of other work. Oh well. The 2 plastic ramps are done. I will just need to do the metal entrance ramp after it comes back from getting the brass plating fixed by Woody.

My goal for Sunday (keeping in mind that I have a few other projects to work on too) will be to get the ramps installed, including getting the wiring all snugged down with new zip ties, and hopefully all of the electrical connections completed. That will just leave the 4 pieces that Woody is fixing (entrance ramp, right wireform, apron wireform, and shooter housing) to install, connecting up the Pinduino (everything is installed but the circuit board and wire connections to the circuit board), and the coindoor. I plan to do some touch up paint work on the coindoor. It isn't bad at all, so not worth stripping it down and starting over on the finish.

I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel to getting this back to playable condition. I can't believe that I took out the wireforms and such to send off to plating back in mid-August. It has been almost 3 months now, but the cabinet looks great with the decal and cabinet repair, the brass pieces on the machine look great, the new rubbers are nice, and the playfield is the cleanest it has ever been since I bought it in 1998. I waxed it twice too for good measure. In the end, I think that it will make my TOM a really nice specimen. I know that more people are doing the same types of things that I am doing, but it isn't a competition and different people have different levels that they want to take their machine.

#1273 3 years ago

What do you guys use to remove the nuts holding the flipper buttons in? I used a pair of pliers getting them off as I couldn't find a wrench that would fit, but now no matter what I do, one of the flipper buttons is loose and I'd like to get it tightened properly.

#1274 3 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

What do you guys use to remove the nuts holding the flipper buttons in? I used a pair of pliers getting them off as I couldn't find a wrench that would fit, but now no matter what I do, one of the flipper buttons is loose and I'd like to get it tightened properly.

I have a large assortment of tools, so your mileage may vary, but I used a wrench. You could also use a socket if you had one large enough and removed the button circuitry to get it out of the way.

I guess you could try a pair of needle nose pliers.

#1275 3 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I have a large assortment of tools, so your mileage may vary, but I used a wrench. You could also use a socket if you had one large enough and removed the button circuitry to get it out of the way.
I guess you could try a pair of needle nose pliers.

Do you know what size the nut is?

#1276 3 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

Do you know what size the nut is?

I went down with my sockets and checked just now.

1/4" to get the 2 screws that hold the flipper circuit boards in place, and then a 15/16" socket for the nut.

This is a pretty big socket usually for use with a 1/2" size ratchet, but just buy the socket, and no ratchet or anything. You don't want to crank down on the metal nut of a plastic button. A secure hand tightening is all that is needed.

#1277 3 years ago

what the heck, I have a full open ended wrench set here and it goes 7/8 to 1 inch. i don't think I have a socket that big either, will have to check the set. But good to know what size it would use. Thank you

#1278 3 years ago

No problem. The tricky part with a wrench is that you have to get "into" the recess of the button hole to get the nut snug. A socket really does well. I know that I said that I used a wrench, which I did, but when I tried the socket just now, I got the first one more snug like I wanted, so I just too the extra 90 seconds and used the socket on the other side. Works really well and better than the wrench since the socket should also go into that recess for better grip.

The socket will cost you about $2-$5 is all.

#1279 3 years ago

I have one plug and play Pinduino kit built and ready to ship for ToM available (I made two when the last one was requested). Just PM me if interested.

#1280 3 years ago

Anyone else have problems hitting the right loop? I can hit left loop no problem but right hardly ever. It's usually just luck and considering midnight madness is my favorite part, it kind of sucks.

#1281 3 years ago

Not much update the last 2 days (for those that care). Yesterday morning, I used some Gorilla brand super glue and glued the magnet back into the Spirit Ring that I just got back from Chris Royalty (got on his list for a swap out well after sending my other 4 parts back off to Ron for re-plating, and got it back quick since it was just a swap out). I then put the spirit ring on to the wireform that it attaches to, but can't go any further as I am still waiting for the larger wireform since they connect to each other.

Tonight I decided to put some fiberglass on the inside of my spare trunk that I've had for several years. The trunk had a wad of newspaper in it and over time was "puffed out" so I got out the heat gun, warmed up the sides, and reformed it back to square before putting in 2 layers of fiberglass and 3 layers of resin. I am going to let this cure overnight, even though it says that it only needs 2 hours.

Circling back to last night. I got the pinduino pieces installs on the plastic ramps, and the ramps installed in the game. I know that I planned on doing that this past weekend but, well, life happened and other things took priority. I can't wait to see the Pinduino in action... Oh, by the way, did you see that Lyonsden has a kit ready to go? Hit him up and buy it already!

#1282 3 years ago

Tempted, but I just bought a kit from him for my other project! You guys are killing me. Maybe after I finish...

#1283 3 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

Anyone else have problems hitting the right loop? I can hit left loop no problem but right hardly ever. It's usually just luck and considering midnight madness is my favorite part, it kind of sucks.

Its a tight shot.
I usually focus on it during multiball and can get it done by ball one or two on a good day.

#1284 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its a tight shot.
I usually focus on it during multiball and can get it done by ball one or two on a good day.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its a tight shot.
I usually focus on it during multiball and can get it done by ball one or two on a good day.

Me and the kids focus on not losing the balls during multiball LOL. I'm thinking my flippers aren't set right but they are aligned with the flipper alignment holes.

#1285 3 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I've had mine think that the trunk was being "hit" all of the time. I got tired of adjusting the eddy sensor underneath the playfield, so I bought one that auto-calibrates itself. Fixed my problem.
I got it from here:
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=375

So if pinbits doesn't have these anymore, is the only thing that you can do is adjust these constantly? I've adjusted all 3 sensors per instructions, turn till lit them turn back until light turns off. I've checked them and make sure they are registering and same thing everytime. The trunk registers most of the time but has a bad habit of not registering the skill shot some times and the outlanes miss the ball probably half the time. You'd assume there would be compensation for that in the software but Nope.

#1286 3 years ago

Part of the eddy sensor calibration problem is the small 2 cavity connector used to connect the coil to the board. The tin plated contacts eventually pick up corrosion, making a poor contact there.

I have had lots of trouble with them, which all ended when I cut off the connector and soldered the two wires directly onto the pins. End of problem for me. So now, I do this with every eddy sensor on every machine I have.

Oh, and I have had to replace the trimpot on one of them, as those also get flaky over time.

#1287 3 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Oh, by the way, did you see that Lyonsden has a kit ready to go? Hit him up and buy it already!

Thanks for shout out. Looks like the extra kit I made is sold, but I'll be making more. Feel free to PM me to reserve a spot.

#1288 3 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

So if pinbits doesn't have these anymore, is the only thing that you can do is adjust these constantly? I've adjusted all 3 sensors per instructions, turn till lit them turn back until light turns off. I've checked them and make sure they are registering and same thing everytime. The trunk registers most of the time but has a bad habit of not registering the skill shot some times and the outlanes miss the ball probably half the time. You'd assume there would be compensation for that in the software but Nope.

If they show out of stock on pinbits just give them a call when I ordered mine they all showed as out of stock but when I called them they just had not updated the website yet

#1289 3 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

So if pinbits doesn't have these anymore, is the only thing that you can do is adjust these constantly? I've adjusted all 3 sensors per instructions, turn till lit them turn back until light turns off. I've checked them and make sure they are registering and same thing everytime. The trunk registers most of the time but has a bad habit of not registering the skill shot some times and the outlanes miss the ball probably half the time. You'd assume there would be compensation for that in the software but Nope.

Mine was actually failing, and no matter how much tinkering around with it I did, it would work about 20% of the time. That makes the game not playable, so instead of buying a replacement similar to the original style, I bought the auto-eddy. If they aren't available, you could contact them and ask when more will be produced and for sale, or just buy a replacement "stock style" for now.

#1290 3 years ago

Does anyone know what this part is? I found it with my other "tear down" pieces from my TOM, but it was in a ziplock by itself and the bag wasn't labeled. Everything else had labels and was marked with the parts inside the bag, plus where in the playfield they went.

I even went back through my photos and videos to try to find where I removed it and couldn't find it.

I was about to clean and polish it when I realized that I had no idea where it went.

TOM-Metal_Piece (resized).jpg

#1291 3 years ago

I believe that goes on the right post on the right ramp, holding down the end of the clear plastic.

#1292 3 years ago

Yep it holds down the clear plastic on the right ramp

#1293 3 years ago

Thanks guys.

#1294 3 years ago

OK. I must be missing it. I looked at my right ramp, and still couldn't figure out where that piece goes. I tried searching photos of other TOMs, and I must be overlooking it somehow.

UPDATE: I FOUND IT! I saw SOOO many photos that didn't show this piece at all...

This was back in post 250 in this thread... Courtesy of indypinhead

metalpiece (resized).jpg

#1295 3 years ago

So do led's work on TOM or not so well. I keep reading old posts about dimming problems and needing a GI OCD. I was thinking of doing the GI lights in purple and then white for all the inserts along with purple rubber.

#1296 3 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

So do led's work on TOM or not so well. I keep reading old posts about dimming problems and needing a GI OCD. I was thinking of doing the GI lights in purple and then white for all the inserts along with purple rubber.

I have standard (not No Ghosting) LEDs in mine (warm -- twin SMDs from Comet) and think they look and work great. I don't have OCD boards, but the fading effects with those look great. It just doesn't make a big difference for me, but I understand why people do it. If you do the inserts, you'll probably want to get a lot of flex head LEDs due to the side mounting of many bulb sockets. Best to color match inserts, except for the yellow ones. I use warm white LEDs for those as the yellow LEDs are too dim.

#1298 3 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

OK. I must be missing it. I looked at my right ramp, and still couldn't figure out where that piece goes. I tried searching photos of other TOMs, and I must be overlooking it somehow.
UPDATE: I FOUND IT! I saw SOOO many photos that didn't show this piece at all...
This was back in post 250 in this thread... Courtesy of indypinhead

Missing on mine and I'm getting trail marks on it from the ball hitting. Can they be found?

#1299 3 years ago

I was planning on comet. So do they dim correctly or no? Will purple gi look good?

Quoted from lyonsden:

I have standard (not No Ghosting) LEDs in mine (warm -- twin SMDs from Comet) and think they look and work great. I don't have OCD boards, but the fading effects with those look great. It just doesn't make a big difference for me, but I understand why people do it. If you do the inserts, you'll probably want to get a lot of flex head LEDs due to the side mounting of many bulb sockets. Best to color match inserts, except for the yellow ones. I use warm white LEDs for those as the yellow LEDs are too dim.

#1300 3 years ago
Quoted from Robl45:

I was planning on comet. So do they dim correctly or no? Will purple gi look good?

With just LEDs the fading sequences and the light show don't work well or look right they will work but they will flicker when the lights should dim all the way down to off they won't they will just go to a flicker look I put a GI OCD board in mine and the difference was huge my friend didn't even know the light show existed on his because someone had turned it off because of LEDs and he couldn't believe the difference it made in person it is definitely worth the money to get the G.I. OCD board in my opinion

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