(Topic ID: 43909)

Theatre of Magic Club

By Nilroc

11 years ago


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There are 4,295 posts in this topic. You are on page 21 of 86.
#1001 7 years ago

I am hoping to get this done today, but planning on taking the playfield out. I will let you know if it is something that (once I am done) could have been done without taking the playfield out and if so I will try to document it (with photos).

#1002 7 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

So is it as simple as just disconnecting the cable bundles from the back box and lifting it out? (obviously taking into account any wire/cable management, glass out, etc)
Maybe I've been making a bigger deal out of this than it really is...

On most modern games you dont even have to unplug the cables.
There is enough slack to completely remove the PF out of the cabinet and set on a rotisserie or table near the cabinet.

Repairs and live assessments are easier to troubleshoot outside the cabinet.

#1003 7 years ago

I put sticker ones on without removing the playfield. Easy peasy.

#1004 7 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I put sticker ones on without removing the playfield. Easy peasy.

Hmmm.... There is so little clearance in the back. Maybe if I messed with it more, but I ended up removing the playfield (cables and all)...

Oh well, it should make it easier at this point, and it allows me to do a little bit of touch-up to the top inside of the cabinet right above where the decal will go. Easier now than when the decal is there.

Problem is that I got side tracked all day with "honey-do" lists. I am off to hand paint some black, then let it sit overnight as we watch a movie.

#1005 7 years ago

Got my cab interior decals installed today. I did not take the play field out and use the wet method (Windex) to slide and position the decals. Worked out fine, but definitely not a lot of clearance to work them around.

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

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#1006 7 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Got my cab interior decals installed today. I did not take the play field out and use the wet method (Windex) to slide and position the decals. Worked out fine, but definitely not a lot of clearance to work them around.

Looks good.

I completely forgot about the spray method for decals. I hadn't heard about using Windex, just soapy water. I might have to look into the Windex option as I would think that it would evaporate faster without having to sit for a day or longer to "cure" into place.

How are you liking the Pinduino? I keep toying with adding it to my TOM.

#1007 7 years ago

This was my first time doing a wet decal install and Windex works quite well. I spray it on and the wipe it slightly with a paper towel to make sure all part are equally covered and not too wet. I did a second set of interior decals today (XMEN) and had an easier time given the experience with ToM.

I love the Pinduino for ToM. But then again, I create it, so I am a bit biased.

With the latest version of the Pinduino that plugs directly into J126, I updated the code to have more effects and think it works really, really well with the gameplay. Of course, I'm always open to ideas and happy to update the code further if anyone has any ideas.

#1008 7 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

I love the Pinduino for ToM. But then again, I create it, so I am a bit biased.

I have it in mine and I love it! Highly recommended!

#1009 7 years ago

How frequently do y'all reach the wizard mode?

#1010 7 years ago
Quoted from jyeakley:

I have it in mine and I love it! Highly recommended!

Great to hear that you are enjoying it!

Quoted from gliebig:

How frequently do y'all reach the wizard mode?

Probably once every six months to a year. It really takes a good game for me to get through all the illusions. Bashing the trunk is a dangerous shot and I rarely survive the 30ish shots it takes to qualify and start every mode. Also, I have buy-in and awards turned off for the trap door so I don't earn extra balls from there (set up for tournaments).

#1011 7 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

How frequently do y'all reach the wizard mode?

Maybe every 10 games or so. It's what I love about ToM - too easy for some, but for me just right to get to wizard mode every now and then. It really hinges on Midnight madness for me - if I get that on a basement award, I get to wizard mode for sure. If I have to make the right orbit 12 times with a couple advance clock skill shots to get there...doesn't happen nearly as often.

Only bad thing about ToM: wizard mode is weak (bang the middle ramp a bunch and yer done) and the lacklaster ending animation...

#1012 7 years ago

I never even play for the wizard mode because it requires going through all the illusions, heh.

#1013 7 years ago

Finally got my TOM back together after taking the playfield completely out last weekend to put the inside decals in.

I REALLY like how this turned out. As with others' photos here, things always look 10x better in person even....

TOM-RIght_(resized).jpgTOM-RIght_(resized).jpg

TOM-Left_(resized).jpgTOM-Left_(resized).jpg

#1014 7 years ago

I came across one locally near me ($9500 Canadian/$7200 US) with some issues. Is this the going rate?

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-toys-games/london/theatre-of-magic-pinball-machine/1180870678?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

#1015 7 years ago
Quoted from monkeybug:

I came across one locally near me ($9500 Canadian/$7200 US) with some issues. Is this the going rate?
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-toys-games/london/theatre-of-magic-pinball-machine/1180870678?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

That is high. 5,500/6,000 depending on condition.

#1016 7 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

That is high. 5,500/6,000 depending on condition.

Agreed, while a lot of us that own a ToM are happy to see increasing prices, reality is more of the range mentioned by mschonbrun.

#1017 7 years ago

I have a set of ramp decals, 3 pieces, staircase and 2 sides of stars. Never needed them when ramps were bought. $25 if anybody needs them, pm me if interested.
Thanks Eric

#1018 7 years ago

I just put down a deposit for the Pinduino from lyonsden! Can't wait to get it in a few weeks and get it installed. Outside of a few minor "toys" I want to add, that pretty much leaves me with making it all "gold" (minus the coin door, which I still think looks better in black in my opinion)... Crazy to think that just a few months back it was all stock (after owning it since 1998) and how far things have come lately...

#1019 7 years ago

Can't wait to hear how you enjoy the Pinduino Kit for ToM. Post some picts when you have your game fully customized.

Quoted from nickbuol:

I just put down a deposit for the Pinduino from lyonsden! Can't wait to get it in a few weeks and get it installed. Outside of a few minor "toys" I want to add, that pretty much leaves me with making it all "gold" (minus the coin door, which I still think looks better in black in my opinion)... Crazy to think that just a few months back it was all stock (after owning it since 1998) and how far things have come lately...

#1020 7 years ago

So any tips for troubleshooting a switch issue with switch #15 in the shooter lane? Just noticed this after I removed my playfield to put in the inside decals. Actually, I didn't notice it right away, but did notice it shortly thereafter.

I checked the obvious for a detached wire, but they look good. I even unhooked one of the wires at the switch and "shorted" it out against the other 2 wires (that were connected to the other end of the switch) and it didn't register a change, so I am thinking that it isn't the switch itself.

I then checked the other end of the wires where they connect in the backbox. They seem to be seated fine, and are all in two small bundles of wires, so if the cables were backwards, I would have expected a lot more errors than this single switch. Plus, I had some good videos that I made when disconnecting everything so that I knew how to connect them up correctly.

The bottom of the playfield never touched the ground after removal either. We layed the playfield on its side in a well protected area.

I am not saying that it didn't happen at the point of removal, just stating that I was super careful as to not have any problems. Without this switch working, you can't select what happens if you hit the trunk after launching the ball, so it is fairly important.

What else should I check?

#1021 7 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

So any tips for troubleshooting a switch issue with switch #15 in the shooter lane? Just noticed this after I removed my playfield to put in the inside decals. Actually, I didn't notice it right away, but did notice it shortly thereafter.
I checked the obvious for a detached wire, but they look good. I even unhooked one of the wires at the switch and "shorted" it out against the other 2 wires (that were connected to the other end of the switch) and it didn't register a change, so I am thinking that it isn't the switch itself.
I then checked the other end of the wires where they connect in the backbox. They seem to be seated fine, and are all in two small bundles of wires, so if the cables were backwards, I would have expected a lot more errors than this single switch. Plus, I had some good videos that I made when disconnecting everything so that I knew how to connect them up correctly.
The bottom of the playfield never touched the ground after removal either. We layed the playfield on its side in a well protected area.
I am not saying that it didn't happen at the point of removal, just stating that I was super careful as to not have any problems. Without this switch working, you can't select what happens if you hit the trunk after launching the ball, so it is fairly important.
What else should I check?

If you unhook the wires and attach to a different switch (outlane perhaps) does it register the shooter lane when you hit the newly attached switch? If so, sounds like you have a bad switch. If not, check fuses and connections in the backbox!

#1022 7 years ago

I checked the connections (again) in the backbox, no change. I removed and tested all fuses, nothing failed. I got out my voltmeter and checked continuity. Two wires were traced back to the backbox (the green/brown? and the white with green "dashes") and had continuity. I also traced the white with the green spiraling stripe, and it goes to the left outlane switch (ultimately) and it tested good for continuity.

I also checked the connection for the wires for this switch to look for burns, and there is no evidence of any. At least visually.

I also tested the switch itself using the volt meter. When the switch is open (as in a "no ball present" situation), the outside two connections tone out good, and neither tone out to the middle (with the green wire). When I press down and close the switch ("ball present" situation) then the outside lose continuity instantly, and the one end that does NOT have any regular wires connected, tones out with the middle connection. I am attaching a picture of the shooter lane switch to show what I am talking about. I tested that previously mentioned outlane switch, and it reacted the same way as this one, with the same continuity changes when its switch was "open" as well as pressed. (Note: I took this while I was testing continuity, I've sense pushed the middle connected wire all of the way on.) The image shows where I get continuity "tone" with the voltmeter and when....

Next step would be desoldering switches and swapping the outlane for the shooter to see what happens, but it just seems odd that everything else seems to work according to the volt meter, but stranger things have happened.

Anyone have any other suggestions that I can try as well in case the switch-swap doesn't change anything?

shooter-switch_(resized).jpgshooter-switch_(resized).jpg

#1023 7 years ago

Lately my center ramp has been acting strange. Medium strength shots which would normally clear the ramp now seem to hit something and will either stop and roll back or barely make the ramp.

I checked and there's nothing actually stuck inside that area of the ramp. It seems like it's gripping on to the top ramp plastic.

I should probably just take off the top ramp and put it back to see if it makes a difference. Ramps are in great condition, so I dont think its dirt build up but maybe...

#1024 7 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

I checked the connections (again) in the backbox, no change. I removed and tested all fuses, nothing failed. I got out my voltmeter and checked continuity. Two wires were traced back to the backbox (the green/brown? and the white with green "dashes") and had continuity. I also traced the white with the green spiraling stripe, and it goes to the left outlane switch (ultimately) and it tested good for continuity.
I also checked the connection for the wires for this switch to look for burns, and there is no evidence of any. At least visually.
I also tested the switch itself using the volt meter. When the switch is open (as in a "no ball present" situation), the outside two connections tone out good, and neither tone out to the middle (with the green wire). When I press down and close the switch ("ball present" situation) then the outside lose continuity instantly, and the one end that does NOT have any regular wires connected, tones out with the middle connection. I am attaching a picture of the shooter lane switch to show what I am talking about. I tested that previously mentioned outlane switch, and it reacted the same way as this one, with the same continuity changes when its switch was "open" as well as pressed. (Note: I took this while I was testing continuity, I've sense pushed the middle connected wire all of the way on.) The image shows where I get continuity "tone" with the voltmeter and when....
Next step would be desoldering switches and swapping the outlane for the shooter to see what happens, but it just seems odd that everything else seems to work according to the volt meter, but stranger things have happened.
Anyone have any other suggestions that I can try as well in case the switch-swap doesn't change anything?

How does it test in switch tests with a ball?
Also check all switch connectors in the backbox and push in all affected the wires on the IDC connectors in with either an IDC tool or a credit card edge, make sure all wires are deep in the connectors.
It sounds like a loose wire connection in an IDC connector or maybe dirty contacts there.

#1025 7 years ago

Got my shooter lane switch fixed, but I am not 100% sure how...

I got out the soldering iron and swapped the shooter lane switch for an outlane switch (I grabbed the left one, which meant that I had to swap the switch brackets back, but no biggied). I resoldered the switches to their new locations, and I was still getting the error. I was about to give up for the night, and I decided to do other maintenance that I've been meaning to do for a while. I adjusted the sensativity of the two outlane eddy boards (just because, not that anything seemed wrong - my trunk eddy is an upgraded auto-eddy so nothing to do there). Still had the error on power up.

I also swapped out my cracked opto interrupter for the new metal one.

I then fired up the machine again, and was going to test the trunk locations, and woah... No switch error...

Not sure what "fixed" it, or if it will come back again. I powered it down and back up a couple more times, and no error still.

Odd, very odd.

Now my current problem is that in my testing of the cable bundles to the backbox, I removed the "motorized tiger saw and marque" circuit board, and I can't for the life of me remember where it plugs in to. I know about where, but not the exact location and I don't want to try trial and error.

Hopefully Google can help...

EDIT: And Google DID come through. Just line up the gap on the plugs on the circuit board with the gap between the pins for J206 and J208 on the controller board. Makes sense. Now to go play some pinball!

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#1026 7 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Lately my center ramp has been acting strange. Medium strength shots which would normally clear the ramp now seem to hit something and will either stop and roll back or barely make the ramp.
I checked and there's nothing actually stuck inside that area of the ramp. It seems like it's gripping on to the top ramp plastic.
I should probably just take off the top ramp and put it back to see if it makes a difference. Ramps are in great condition, so I dont think its dirt build up but maybe...

Hmm. I just looked and there seems to be a lot of clearance between the center ramp and where the right ramp goes over top of it. Maybe you could attach a photo of where yours is getting stuck???

#1027 7 years ago

In case anyone wondered what the TOM apron looks like with matching gameblades - pretty awesome!

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

#1028 7 years ago

Straight on pic...

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

#1029 7 years ago

That's pretty cool. I toyed with getting one of those light up aprons a few years back, but could never justify the price. $289 euros plus shipping....

From Pinball-Dreams. https://www.pinball-dreams.com/en/shop-en/illuminated-aprons.html

These pictures are from their website.
theatre-of-magic-impress076_(resized).jpgtheatre-of-magic-impress076_(resized).jpg
theatre-of-magic-impress00a_(resized).jpgtheatre-of-magic-impress00a_(resized).jpg

#1030 7 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

That's pretty cool. I toyed with getting one of those light up aprons a few years back, but could never justify the price. $289 euros plus shipping....
From Pinball-Dreams. https://www.pinball-dreams.com/en/shop-en/illuminated-aprons.html
These pictures are from their website.

Yeah. Those are awesome looking, but crazy expensive for what it is...I think pinball decals has the exact same illuminated apron for $489 usd!!

The magnetic overlay I installed is only $40 plus shipping at Tilt and I think I like how it doesn't distract you from the game at all - just goes with everything else!

http://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/#!product-page/c7zeb/0178b594-791b-943a-7be8-f64fb62a9224

#1031 7 years ago
Quoted from jyeakley:

Yeah. Those are awesome looking, but crazy expensive for what it is...I think pinball decals has the exact same illuminated apron for $489 usd!!
The magnetic overlay I installed is only $40 plus shipping at Tilt and I think I like how it doesn't distract you from the game at all - just goes with everything else!
http://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/#!product-page/c7zeb/0178b594-791b-943a-7be8-f64fb62a9224

Yeah and the fact that it is magnetic also means that it won't rip off the stock/factory decals. Too bad that there isn't one that better matches my blades, but then again, maybe one that more matches the outside cabinet graphics (like yours) would be better anyway.

#1032 7 years ago

Anyone here ever replace the metal flaps on their ramps? I've got one that has gotten pretty rusty over the years. Figured that I might just replace all 3. They are just riveted on, right?

#1033 7 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Anyone here ever replace the metal flaps on their ramps? I've got one that has gotten pretty rusty over the years. Figured that I might just replace all 3. They are just riveted on, right?

Yep - I have used the ones from pinbits and had great success:
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_33&products_id=458&zenid=aa391c2b299b96024ec2845ca323f085

#1034 7 years ago

Did some maintenance tonight! New silicone rubber, cleaned and waxed, flame polished the ramps, put on a tiger and magic wand mod, put in Leon's board and a Modfather shooter rod. A few weeks ago I pulled the trunk and cleaned and relubed the gear box.

Gonna put her in a foster home this week and sell sometime in the near future. It's my first game, and always been in my house. Thought I'd never sell her but I'm a bit over the rules. As much as I'm ready for something else, this is the nicest game in my collection. Is it bad luck to sell your first game?

IMG_20160815_223434_(resized).jpgIMG_20160815_223434_(resized).jpg

#1035 7 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Is it bad luck to sell your first game?

I was on my back, floating on the Feather River this summer, listening to music at a music festival. There were probably about 250 people floating around me on various inflatables, at various stages of intoxication. Anyway, a friend of mine is chatting with me and brings up pinball, and somehow we get to talking about Theatre of Magic.

Anyway, within a few minutes, a completely passed out guy with his head barely above the water line picks up his head and yells at us, in a slurred speech, "Theatre of Magic is the best pinball game. EVER." He promptly passes out again.

Another guy hears him, and says, "Shit, did you just say Theatre of Magic? Seriously the most fun pinball game ever."

Pinball tournament players grow tired of the rules and get bored of the game, for sure. As far as general entertainment, I think this game has better legs than other games. Take what I'm saying with a grain of salt, I'm new to this. However, the reason I chose ToM was for this reason.

Your call though!

#1036 7 years ago

I second the Pinbits flaps. Used them in BSD, ToM and STTNG. Stainless steel so no more bluing or rusting.

#1037 7 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

I was on my back, floating on the Feather River this summer, listening to music at a music festival. There were probably about 250 people floating around me on various inflatables, at various stages of intoxication...

Great story, sounds like it was a fun party

#1038 7 years ago

Yeah that is the kit that I was looking at. I just ordered it. Not sure if it comes with the rivets like the other kits, but the key is the flaps anyway. Worst case, I have a rivet gun and a variety of rivet sizes.

#1039 7 years ago

Darn! I should buy some of those just to keep for future need.

1 week later
#1040 7 years ago

I know you can buy sheets of all insert decals but does anyone have just the spirit ring insert that you place next to the trap door? I will pay $5 + whatever shipping is for this piece. Thanks

#1041 7 years ago

Arranging for my ToM to get turned to "gold"... Not as cheap as I hoped, but I kind of knew it wouldn't be.
Not sure which will happen first, the "gold" parts getting back to me (after I rip out my wire forms, etc and ship them off, which will happen tonight/tomorrow) or me getting my Pinduino setup that has been backordered. Will be really some fun times in just a few weeks or so.

Not sure how easy it is to remove the wire form (brass ramp) on the right side as it looks like it goes "into" the playfield up near the top, but I guess I will find out.

#1042 7 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Arranging for my ToM to get turned to "gold"... Not as cheap as I hoped, but I kind of knew it wouldn't be.
Not sure which will happen first, the "gold" parts getting back to me (after I rip out my wire forms, etc and ship them off, which will happen tonight/tomorrow) or me getting my Pinduino setup that has been backordered. Will be really some fun times in just a few weeks or so.
Not sure how easy it is to remove the wire form (brass ramp) on the right side as it looks like it goes "into" the playfield up near the top, but I guess I will find out.

Not that bad to remove. There are a few nuts on the top of the playfield and two underneath towards the back. I had my ramps brassed by Ron and have Pinduino - they both are amazing!! You will love it!

#1043 7 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

That's pretty cool. I toyed with getting one of those light up aprons a few years back, but could never justify the price. $289 euros plus shipping....
From Pinball-Dreams. https://www.pinball-dreams.com/en/shop-en/illuminated-aprons.html
These pictures are from their website.

I've purchased two of those light up aprons in the past. One for my Addams Family and another one for my Twilight Zone. I'm not sure if it's the same people but I was disappointed with them. They just are not as bright as you would like them to be. These in the photo are definitely brighter than the ones I purchased.

#1044 7 years ago

Thanks for the feedback.

I actually had the right brass wireform ramp out last night before I saw your post just now. It was pretty straight forward. the end of the ramp goes "into" the playfield, something much be holding it there, flip up the playfield, find the two bolts, undo the nuts, bam... It is out.

Everything sent off to get plated.

Anyone know how durable the plating is for high touch areas like the lockdown bar where your hands rest?

Getting a lot of pieces plated, but that is my biggest concern.... wear from use.

#1045 7 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Thanks for the feedback.
I actually had the right brass wireform ramp out last night before I saw your post just now. It was pretty straight forward. the end of the ramp goes "into" the playfield, something much be holding it there, flip up the playfield, find the two bolts, undo the nuts, bam... It is out.
Everything sent off to get plated.
Anyone know how durable the plating is for high touch areas like the lockdown bar where your hands rest?
Getting a lot of pieces plated, but that is my biggest concern.... wear from use.

Heavy powdercoat seems to be more durable than thin plating...but if struck just right it can chip.

#1046 7 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Heavy powdercoat seems to be more durable than thin plating...but if struck just right it can chip.

Yeah, the plating is being done by the same place that did Mike Chestnut's work in the past, and people seemed to LOVE that, so hopefully it will hold up.

I know that Stern has been cranking out powdercoated metal on their pins for the last many years. Some looks obnoxious, but it is SUPER durable, but it is too "dull" and "blah" for trying to make it look like "gold."

#1047 7 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Yeah, the plating is being done by the same place that did Mike Chestnut's work in the past, and people seemed to LOVE that, so hopefully it will hold up.
I know that Stern has been cranking out powdercoated metal on their pins for the last many years. Some looks obnoxious, but it is SUPER durable, but it is too "dull" and "blah" for trying to make it look like "gold."

I think the recent trend in powdercoating has to do with corrosion.
Lots of games are plated in an assortment of colors, but sadly they all rust,corrode or tarnish over time.
We will have to wait and see if the powdercoating lasts as well through the years.

#1048 7 years ago

Found out that Woody (who I mentioned above) clearcoats the brass plated stuff so that it doesn't tarnish. For home use, I am sure that this will be durable enough for a long, long time....

#1049 7 years ago
Quoted from nickbuol:

Found out that Woody (who I mentioned above) clearcoats the brass plated stuff so that it doesn't tarnish. For home use, I am sure that this will be durable enough for a long, long time....

Yep - it is clear coated. I keep it nice and waxed. He does beautiful work! Should last. Well worth the money!

#1050 7 years ago

We're can I buy the tiger saw mod for less than pinball decals prices?

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