I have found the things I needed. Thanks to all!

Thank you lhammer610!

I am in need of some more Tommy help. Can someone follow where these 2 plugs with three wires each end up connecting IN THE HEAD? Right hand side of the head, coming out of main playfield harness.

I didn’t see these two connections in the manual.

Totally guessing the wires go to the power supply board (or most do) but, not certain.
50A8C6C8-B4BE-48B2-8DA4-36BA9B28A30C (resized).jpegF0ED6DA9-B686-4305-9DE0-7F4E9A75F194 (resized).jpeg

Here's a better picture of the two male wire harnesses in the cabinet that I need to create (not my game in picture below)... Definitely look to be going to power supply. Why is this not documented in the manual? So frustrating.

Screen Shot 2022-09-09 at 9.51.26 AM (resized).png

I have traced out and confirmed all of these wires in my Tommy restoration thread.

That’s not the correct area. Plugs are on the right side of the head, have gry/org and gry/red wires.

Can someone please trace the wires for the “GND” CN10 connector (single yellow wire looped through two pins) on the power supply? My game is missing this wire. The schematic does not seem to state where the wires goes.

I know it’s a ground but I’m not sure where it end’s up.

A5C40A59-A013-4FDB-A9D4-BDD9077843FF (resized).jpeg

Hmmm, odd. I guess they doubled it up, I do already have a ground in that harness from the main power connector on the PSU.

The 3 pin gray wire one by the speaker is no connection.
The two pin with 120AC is no connection.
Yes, the square 9 pin is for a adding a DBV to the coin door.

I believe that the two large plugs on the power box side are for "foreign coin counter boards".

The straight 6 pin @ the coin door connector might be for the shaker motor control board. (I'm only saying that because I noticed your game is a Taiwan re-import machine. The one I own was from Taiwan too and appears to have a factory installed shaker motor in it.)

Does yours happen to have a shaker?

Also, crazy question... WHY is your cabinet BLUE?

Welcome to the Tommy resurrection club!

You can get the Pinsound integrated/interactive shaker kit and it shakes a lot more during gameplay.

The other option, you can install it and (I think with the prototype roms) but I think it only shakes during the skill shot and maybe multiball... certainly not worth it.

It does look like at one point mine did ship to Taiwan with a shaker installed and it was later removed.

I think TOMMY was originally designed to have a shaker but DE dropped it with all games after the prototypes. There's some pictures of a proto or sample export TOMMY with a shaker in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tommy-with-shaker-motor

#1 In the ball trough. Balls hang for a bunch of reasons.

Behind raised hotdog inserts.

In the Union Jack mode start shot.(When VUK plunger/popper does not seat properly.)

-Check the ball trough again.. yup they are still sticking in there!

In my case there were 4 reasons the balls were getting stuck in the ball trough. Yes 4.

It's along the same lines as the other DE pins of the era. TFTC, Tommy, LAH all have similar bones. A bunch of modes to get to a wizard mode. You can usually time them out. You can run more than one mode at a time unless it's a multiball mode. It's difficult to get them all. There are some other scoring opportunities and a few "hidden" things on each game. It's worth mentioning that Lyman Sheat's DE work really helped to establish the future of Stern pinball in the industry. The bare bones of his designs here are a standard starting point for most modern Stern machines.

I converted mine but the one in your link is not the correct one. Not saying you could not use it but that one MUCH wider and it's mounted using some odd looking compression studs to the left of the shooter lane like all new Sterns. [You would possibly need to drill holes all the way through your Tommy playfield to use one of that variety.]

I would not recommend using one that wide because the previous generation Stern one BARELY fits in there, width-wise. It's hard to explain without pictures but the way the Data East through is designed really limits the amount of space you have there. You could try it and see but you could also run into problems lining up the switch and could end up wasting $82.

If it's worth anything, I used the one that's on games like Sharky's Shootout and Austin Powers (from Pinballlife.com) and it works FANTASTIC and is half the price. https://www.pinballlife.com/segastern-auto-plunger-arm-weld-assembly.html

There's a couple examples of people installing it. Here's the post about my Tommy auto-shooter conversion in my "trash to treasure Tommy" thread that I did last year (with a few pictures of the installed assembly): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tommys-not-a-wizard-yet-he-needs-serious-help-refurb-thread#post-7174562 [posts 37+38]

I’m fairly certain those are micro switches and not leaf switches. Anyway, I’d bet the wire is getting hung up on the wooden slot because it’s bent or some other obstruction. You’ll need to prop the playfield up and look trough the hole when the switch is activated to check for free travel. The wire could just be out of alignment.

There’s a lot of really good classic stuff in Tommy. I think it’s a game that really made a statement for Lyman’s talents. He relentlessly kept making the game better and better. His interview with Jeff Teolis about Tommy is worth a listen if you’ve not heard it. A lot of Data East nostalgia hidden in that interview. A lot of the design team got to meet members of the Who and actors in the Tommy Broadway production.

Look at/wiggle gi connectors (also unplug and re-plug) with the game in attract mode to see if you get any life. Likely burnt pins or connectors.

First place to check is the GI plug from the transformer in lower cabinet. Yellow/White wires...
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Next, check the two power supply connectors where the GI voltage goes in/out of the board (will be on the right side of the power board) in the head. That's a total of 3 plugs you need to investigate.

The is GI circuit is also fused. Confirm with a meter by removing the fuse(s) and testing.
Screen Shot 2023-07-26 at 11.04.34 AM (resized).png

Not unless the backbox GI is out. With the game on, Check the plugs I described in my previous post. One in lower cab and I circled the other two in this picture you posted:
Screen Shot 2023-07-27 at 9.35.26 AM (resized).png

Lower plug is "GI in" and upper plug is "GI out".

That's fine but you did not fix it by wigging wires. You will need to determine WHICH plug failed and re-pin it. Keep in mind that your problem is likely to return again, rather quickly.

Not ideal but, it would work. The flashers and the 32V coil outputs are not fused on the -00 board. Also, the -00 board may or may not have a varistor.