Wow! That's different. I have had Tommy longer than any game in my collection, since about 2006. It will never leave!
The other games you see in these pics are long gone....
Thanks, good info. There's also the "one way combo", bounce off the silverball target into the mirror.
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:
Does anyone else have the problem of the Union Jack shot and the Mirror shot bricking out all the time? Mine only stays in there about 10% of the time. I've tried foam in there, but it doesn't seem to help.
Union Jack shot, yes. Mirror hole, no. My Union Jack got better after installing a Cliffy protector. Seems the hole gets some wear and having a nice sharp edge on it with the Cliffy helps with bounce outs. I also put a small piece of target foam at the back of the shot. I still get bounce outs probably 30-50% of the time.
Quoted from MauriceSTYS:
Let's talk about that right spinner.
Imagine you have the ball trapped on the left flipper, union jack is not lit.
What do you shoot? Silver ball? Bumpers? VUK? Holiday Camp? All kind of pointless and risky.
The obvious choice would be right orbit to relight the union jack and get a feed to your right flipper (parachute hole) or loop all the way to the upper left flipper for a shot at the mirror/right ramp.
But with the right spinner, the chances of that shot making it even up to the parachute hole are about 5% (on my machine). What I get is the ball rolling back down, often onto the slingshot and out of control.
I was wondering why I only ever saw one 3-way-combo, and the answer is because every other combo requires a full right orbit.
And what use are the spinners anyway? 100k/spin during captain walker? Whatever lousy value they are when in normal play?
So my question is: Do you think the right spinner should be removed? Can it be "fixed" to not stop the ball as much? Would removing the right spinner make the game easier in a bad way?
In that case I will shoot the right spinner(mine has no problem re-lighting Union Jack), shoot the silverball target(especially if it is lit), or backhand the left ramp. Remember spinner value is doubled if hit on the fly from an inlane. Do that during 2x scoring for some pretty good points.
You can ck the blinders operation by holding in the extra ball button and pressing start. They should open up and stay for the entire game. Cabinet wear by the flipper buttons is extremely common. I guess that yellow paint is easily worn thin.
There are 2 on Mr. Pinball right now. One is from an individual, says very nice, completely shopped, listed at $3200.
The other is from a business and says shopped with new rubbers, $3695
Quoted from MauriceSTYS:
Quick question, anyone know what's up with the tilt warning setting?
Available options (4.0U) are 0, 1 and 3. Isn't 2 warnings the most common? The Manual does mention that 1 is normal, so does the tilt work slightly differently on DE's?
If you set the game for competition mode, it is then 2 warnings.
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:
Has anyone found a definitive way to fix the rejection from the Union Jack and Mirror shots? I've tried foam in about 10 different combinations and no matter what I do, it rejects 80% of the time.
I find myself rarely playing it because of the rejects.
Try the full Cliffy set. I never get rejects from the mirror hole. My rejects from the Tommy hole were cut in half after adding the Cliffy protector.
One of those goes on the plastic above the mode start hole, just behind the upkicker. Another one goes on the plastic just above and behind the left scoop. Not sure about the third one. They are all there just to avoid ball traps.
There are some great changes in there! Though I don't think I'm tech savy enough to install the code.
How well is this code going to work with the recently released colorDMD?
You could start with re-seating all the ribbon cables. I would also check your outputs on the power supply to see if they are normal.
The communication cables are the wide cables that look like ribbons, white or grey in color. Just carefully unplug and re-connect at each end. Be very careful to keep all pins aligned exactly as they were.
Yes, the display will be nowhere near touching the plastic window of the speaker panel. I didn't measure, but IIRC it was about .3 to .5 inches from the window.
Wait, did you cut the 15inch long strip from the plastic panel with a Dremmel? You've got to do that to get it much closer to the window.
OK, then I would say yours is normal. The display looks very good even with that small distance. The only negative I've heard is if you are streaming using an overhead camera to cover both the playfield and the scores, it can be difficult to see. We will find out in Tommy's case real soon. Mine will be in the tourney at Southern Fried and Bryan will be streaming with that exact type camera set-up.
I have cliffy's on all three holes on Tommy. For the mode start hole on the right, the bounce outs were definitely worse before the cliffy. After adding the cliffy, I still get bounce outs, but not as many. My Tommy was the one used in the PAPA tourney at SFGE this year. There were some complaints about the bounce outs, but most players just understood that it is a very prevalent problem on Tommy. You either shoot the other hole, or try to shoot the right hole by grazing off of the posts. I did put a couple pieces of foam weather stripping at the rear of the hole which does seem to help.
I had this exact same string go out. IIRC it was the connector on the top right of the board in the top left of back box. I had to re-pin the connector. A bit of a PITA because I had to stand on something to better get at the location in the upper left of the backbox.
My guess would be the servo motor itself. There are gears inside the motor and it's possible one is cracked or is missing teeth.
Quoted from Djshakes:
Has anyone noticed the small predrilled holes above their outlane posts? They look like flipper alignment holes. I think these can be used to move your outlanes up. I think I'm going to drill them and move up my posts.
I did exactly that. But as my skills improved and I started going to more and more competitions, I moved them back to the original spot so the game would play brutal like it is supposed to. I even moved the upper posts as high as they will go!
I recall playing a Tommy at PAPA several years ago. The front castors were screwed all the way in, the rear castors were screwed all the way out and it was floaty as hell. It was like they could not get a decent pitch on it with the legs maxed out. I wonder if there were variations in the cabinet's leg bolt locations?
Quoted from tomh52722:
Hello I have a question for the group. Lately, my mirror hasn't been going down all of the way. The multiball light/arrow is on, but you cannot shoot it in the hole between the mirror to start multiball because the mirror is only half way down at that point. I tried running the mirror down test in test mode, but can't figure out how to test it (on the test screen, mirror down is the second options, but I can't figure out how to get past the first option, which is "mirror up"). Any advice would be appreciated.
To advance to the next part of the test it is either the start button or flipper buttons, I can't remember which. Question: Does it ever hang up in the other direction? In other words, does it ever stop too early on the way up?
Things off the top of my head that could cause this: Switch not reading the position of the mirror correctly. Bad solder joints on the relay that engages the motor. The motor itself. The board that sends the signal to the motor.
Quoted from Methos:
Looks like the eight amp fuse in the back box is blowing. So it's got to be either that Or the bridge rectifier. Which one of these two are more likely to go?
On my Tommy I once had all the insert lights out. When I would replace the fuse it would blow immediately. It was the bridge rectifier. You can remove it and test it with a meter.
Quoted from Ive:
I have the LCD in mine - bought it before the LED became available. You have to cut a part of the plastic speaker panel to allow it to fit - on the rear so no difference when looking from the front. It also sits in front of the light panel meaning a couple of lamps have to be removed.
There used to be instructions on ColorDMD site but looks like they have now removed them.
If anyone did need them I am pretty sure I have a print out of them somewhere from when I fitted mine.
Same here. I think the LCD looks great on Tommy. It was a little work to get it installed, but nothing impossible that would force you to go LED.
Quoted from zahner:
If anyone is looking - CPR has Tommy plastics listed now [I just ordered mine]. Also, on ebay there is someone selling an NOS set for $308 [OBO] at:
ebay.com link » Tommy Pinball Machine Original Nos Complete Plastic Set Of 33 Items Data East
And I've emailed the folks at https://virtuapin.net/ to check on the viability of making the Union Jack cabinet decals.
Beginning to think I have too much spare time on my hands - which I do not ...
I noticed the set comes with an extra plastic that goes above the VUK. If you or anyone else wants to sell this plastic, I will pay a hefty chunk of your plastic set cost for it!
Quoted from zahner:
Well, if you have no takers on your offer to buy the second plastic from a CPR set, you can have my off-color one for free once the new set arrives. Honestly, it's not too noticeable - unless you notice it... and even then, it's okay. You are welcome to it and it's better than epoxy.
Not 100% sure if that is the cause of your problem, but those need to be re-pinned. I had to do the same on my Tommy years ago.
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