(Topic ID: 142990)

The Who's TOMMY Club - Can you hear me? Members Only!


By ChadH

4 years ago



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There are 1144 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 23.
#351 3 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Holy moly that wasn't the most fun... But success nonetheless!
» YouTube video

Yep .. I did *not* enjoy taking the dremel to the speaker panel And boy was that screen a tight fit along the bottom edge on mine. Was more of a mission than I first thought it would be.

#352 3 years ago
Quoted from Ive:

Yep .. I did *not* enjoy taking the dremel to the speaker panel And boy was that screen a tight fit along the bottom edge on mine. Was more of a mission than I first thought it would be.

Was a first dremel experience and I got nervous with all the molten plastic flying everywhere. I had to slightly elongate my bottom mouthing holes. No amount of bending was going to get it past that bottom lip.

My Tommy is just about perfect except every once in awhile doing a loud speaker crackle and the whole game resets. Kinda annoying.

#353 3 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Was a first dremel experience ...

The Dremel might just be the most handy tool ever invented. I've used mine so many times on my pins that I've lost count.

#354 3 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Was a first dremel experience and I got nervous with all the molten plastic flying everywhere. I had to slightly elongate my bottom mouthing holes. No amount of bending was going to get it past that bottom lip.
My Tommy is just about perfect except every once in awhile doing a loud speaker crackle and the whole game resets. Kinda annoying.

Did you find that the screen is *really* tight against the light board ?? I had to remove a few of the lower bulbs - which is slightly disappointing (These Tommy speaker panels are considerably shorter in height than Bally Williams panels.

#355 3 years ago
Quoted from Ive:

Did you find that the screen is *really* tight against the light board ?? I had to remove a few of the lower bulbs - which is slightly disappointing (These Tommy speaker panels are considerably shorter in height than Bally Williams panels.

Yes to both. The screen is right up against the light board and I had to remove some bulbs. A slight bummer.

An even bigger bummer is all my Tommy insanity lately!

#356 3 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Yes to both. The screen is right up against the light board and I had to remove some bulbs. A slight bummer.
An even bigger bummer is all my Tommy insanity lately!
» YouTube video

Definitely a power issue. Your sound card keeps rebooting (the "Tommy" voice call is always played upon sound boot up.)

I see your display even rebooted. Again... power. Might be your power was right on the edge before and the ColorDMD has pushed your power supply over the edge?

#357 3 years ago

Yes, could be power supply. Could also just need all the ribbon cables re-seated.

#358 3 years ago

My Tommy is dead after installation too. Followed instructions to the T but once I fired it up I got the display rocking but music cutted out and only had sounds, then the game reset with both flippers pressed, now display and game doesn't work at - only the lights turn on when game is turned on. Ordered a rottendog replacement board for power driver and will hope that makes it right- will report back later.

Also had to remove some light bulbs in backbox to make fit too.

#359 3 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Yes to both. The screen is right up against the light board and I had to remove some bulbs. A slight bummer.
An even bigger bummer is all my Tommy insanity lately!
» YouTube video

I am sorry to hear that but that is the exact issue I had until I swapped he original DMD back in and now I am dead in the water. Will let you know if the new rottendog board fixes the issue

#360 3 years ago

Eek! Well, while it could be related I don't believe it's dmd caused. I have this pre-ColorDMD video of the game bugging out.

#361 3 years ago

I must have been on the verge of it happening and slapping that adapter piece on the power board included with color DMD put it over the edge - the new board ordered will hopefully do the trick!

#362 3 years ago

If you suspect a powe problem you can check with a DMM. The problems you're reporting sound like a logic problem. Logic runs on 5V where the ColorDMD draws its power from 12V. I think it's unlikely to be a power driver problem.

It's more likely that communication on the logic bus is failing due to a ribbon cable being connected improperly or the Whitestar DMD controller board not receiving power.

Can you post a few photos that show the cable connections in the backbox and to the Whitestar and ColorDMD display boards?

#363 3 years ago
Quoted from Dmod:

If you suspect a powe problem you can check with a DMM. The problems you're reporting sound like a logic problem. Logic runs on 5V where the ColorDMD draws its power from 12V. I think it's unlikely to be a power driver problem.
It's more likely that communication on the logic bus is failing due to a ribbon cable being connected improperly or the Whitestar DMD controller board not receiving power.
Can you post a few photos that show the cable connections in the backbox and to the Whitestar and ColorDMD display boards?

Will do! Give me a couple days, out of town, and I will slap some pics as soon as I am back!

#364 3 years ago
Quoted from Dmod:

If you suspect a powe problem you can check with a DMM. The problems you're reporting sound like a logic problem. Logic runs on 5V where the ColorDMD draws its power from 12V. I think it's unlikely to be a power driver problem.
It's more likely that communication on the logic bus is failing due to a ribbon cable being connected improperly or the Whitestar DMD controller board not receiving power.
Can you post a few photos that show the cable connections in the backbox and to the Whitestar and ColorDMD display boards?

Hi ColorDMD guys. I think maybe you should mention the lightboard fit issue and bulbs needing to be removed on your Tommy installation instructions just so folk are aware. My initial headscratching thoughts on installation were ...'this can't be right' ... I appreciate it is how it is, but would have reassured me it was how supposed to be.

Cheers

#365 3 years ago

A question for those of you who have installed the color dmd. I'm having a lot of issues with my installation. I've done one on a Stern with no issues. After doing the install I have a pretty large gap between the front of the display and the speaker panel. See attached pic. Is this normal? I ask because after talking to LOTRBreath I may have had some non-standard hardware. I also had to buy the 1/4 spacers (none were with my color Dmd) and replace the metal spacers because mine were 1 1/4" leaving no room to put a nut.

I too had to do the steps others have outlined (elongated the holes, etc).

IMAG0007_(resized).jpg

#366 3 years ago
Quoted from williams:

A question for those of you who have installed the color dmd. I'm having a lot of issues with my installation. I've done one on a Stern with no issues. After doing the install I have a pretty large gap between the front of the display and the speaker panel. See attached pic. Is this normal? I ask because after talking to LOTRBreath I may have had some non-standard hardware. I also had to buy the 1/4 spacers (none were with my color Dmd) and replace the metal spacers because mine were 1 1/4" leaving no room to put a nut.
I too had to do the steps others have outlined (elongated the holes, etc).

To move the display close to the speaker panel, it's necessary to trim the plastic at the top. This is described in the custom instructions for DE plastic speaker panels on the hardware support page.

http://www.colordmd.com/support_hardware.html

The shape of the DE speaker panel makes installation more difficult for DE games than Stern or WPC.

#367 3 years ago

Yes, the display will be nowhere near touching the plastic window of the speaker panel. I didn't measure, but IIRC it was about .3 to .5 inches from the window.

#368 3 years ago

Wait, did you cut the 15inch long strip from the plastic panel with a Dremmel? You've got to do that to get it much closer to the window.

#369 3 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Wait, did you cut the 15inch long strip from the plastic panel with a Dremmel? You've got to do that to get it much closer to the window.

Yes, I did trim the panel. It does lay flush with the 1/4 spacers but like you say, not near the front of the panel. I would say about the same as yours, enough to fit my pinky in gap. The pic I attached is after my installation.

#370 3 years ago

OK, then I would say yours is normal. The display looks very good even with that small distance. The only negative I've heard is if you are streaming using an overhead camera to cover both the playfield and the scores, it can be difficult to see. We will find out in Tommy's case real soon. Mine will be in the tourney at Southern Fried and Bryan will be streaming with that exact type camera set-up.

#371 3 years ago

That's about as close as you'll get it and mimics my setup. It looks perfectly normal during gameplay.

Quoted from williams:

Yes, I did trim the panel. It does lay flush with the 1/4 spacers but like you say, not near the front of the panel. I would say about the same as yours, enough to fit my pinky in gap. The pic I attached is after my installation.

#372 3 years ago
Quoted from MAJRob:

My Tommy is dead after installation too. Followed instructions to the T but once I fired it up I got the display rocking but music cutted out and only had sounds, then the game reset with both flippers pressed, now display and game doesn't work at - only the lights turn on when game is turned on. Ordered a rottendog replacement board for power driver and will hope that makes it right- will report back later.
Also had to remove some light bulbs in backbox to make fit too.

The Power Supply Board from Rottendog did the trick. Tommy is back up and kicking ass. Have no idea why the installation screwed up the board except perhaps it was on its last legs? This is my fourth Color DMD and most challenging (not that bad really) but so worth it! ColorDMD did a fantastic job.

The actual mounting piece for me went like this. I used a jigsaw, versus a dremel, to cut out the piece of of plastic to make the Color DMD lay flush. I did not use the spacers and instead just seated the display right up to speaker panel without them. This gave a little bit more clearance between the ColorDMD and the backbox which contains all the GI lights. I also only had to remove 2 lights versus 3 with not using any spacers.

Again, not the easiest installation compared to others but so worth it in the end.

#373 3 years ago

My Tommy is fixed and not resetting anymore. It was the +5 connector being a little burnt out and some cracked solder on the back. He fixed up the cracks and repinned a bunch of the connections.

image_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpeg

#374 3 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Original video mode scoring was bad. Do nothing and get 13M or try really hard and get maybe 18M.
New video mode scoring actually rewards you for trying. Do nothing and get 10M or try hard and get 40 to 50M. Giving player incentive to actually play the mode.
Also, if you hate Video Modes, you can now turn this one off in the Adjustments.

Yeah, speaking just for me, this is the best part about the code.

Now, I HATE video modes in general (NOT always, just usually) and I have been holding onto Tommy forever in the hope that I could one day play it without the stupid pointless video mode. While I argued to just eliminate it and be done with it, especially because of how random it is, Chad wanted to try to fix it. In the end, you get the best of both worlds...

A video mode that is not quite as wonky as before and you get punished for not trying on - or - no video mode at all. Tommy's a pinball wizard, after all, not a video game guy.

As for the scoring, unlike the earlier DE games that Chad and I worked on together, Tommy does score higher. JP and TFTC are each worth 30M for a successful completed mode (generally), but Tommy is closer to 50M and has more variation based on difficulty. The video mode used to not just be pointless but used to be worth FAR less than the other modes. Scoring was brought up in it if you play it to make it worth the "correct" amount if you play it.

...and, like I said, you can turn the stupid thing off if you still hate it.

#375 3 years ago

Propellor mod added. Thanks to Number41 for the tip!

10
#376 3 years ago

I finally got around to making this original factory rubber configuration chart for Tommy. My game still had the original (and very brittle) factory Happ black rubber on it and it was set up a bit differently from the manual. This revised diagram shows the actual factory setup along with some notes. I see a lot of photos out there with missing rubber parts or incorrect placement, so I hope this is useful for anyone who wants to accurately restore and retain the original factory rubber setup for their game. It's a high-resolution file, so be sure to click to expand then save. Enjoy!

TommyFactoryRubberChart.jpg

#377 3 years ago
Quoted from Number41:

I finally got around to making this original factory rubber configuration chart for Tommy. My game still had the original (and very brittle) factory Happ black rubber on it and it was set up a bit differently from the manual. This revised diagram shows the actual factory setup along with some notes. I see a lot of photos out there with missing rubber parts or incorrect placement, so I hope this is useful for anyone who wants to accurately restore and retain the original factory rubber setup for their game. It's a high-resolution file, so be sure to click to expand then save. Enjoy!

Awesome job! This will definitely come in handy. Thanks!

Do you use original black? I think white looks good.

#378 3 years ago

I've been putting blue Titans in mine. They look and play great.

#379 3 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Awesome job! This will definitely come in handy. Thanks!
Do you use original black? I think white looks good.

Thanks! Pretty happy with how the chart turned out. I use Titan silicone on the playfield (black) along with red Pinball Life PerfectPlay silicone for the flippers (slightly bouncier than Titan). It plays great. If I were to use rubber again I'd go white - mainly since it plays faster and bouncier than black rubber. Might try different Titan colors at some point, though.

One thing to note: Titan doesn't make a 1-3/4" ring yet so I used a 1-1/2" ring up by the pop bumpers. I think the tighter fit actually sends the ball into the pops a little stronger, so that's a plus.

#380 3 years ago

There's A Doctor mode in 5.0 ............... just so much more enticing to play for, with less hits needed and a nice 30Mill award for completion along with a cool little celebratory sound effect.

Can't believe that after all these years of playing Tommy I have discovered its better to hit into the Pops from below from the left flipper. Ball then seems to stay up in the pops for a good number of hits. I often find that entering the pops from the orbits via the pop up post ,the ball just sails on thru and back into play ....grrrrrr.

And yes I have tweaked my pops so they are super sensitive

#381 3 years ago
Quoted from shimoda:

I've been putting blue Titans in mine. They look and play great.

Do you have a picture of this, sounds interesting. Purple flipper rubbers (Titan) look great on mine.

#382 3 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Definitely a power issue. Your sound card keeps rebooting (the "Tommy" voice call is always played upon sound boot up.)
I see your display even rebooted. Again... power. Might be your power was right on the edge before and the ColorDMD has pushed your power supply over the edge?

Add me to the group that is also having this issue since my Color DMD install. I get the same 'Tommy' voice call that restarts and music cuts out. Only happens during multiball so that definately points to a power issue. Reseated cables but no change. I'll report back once I have a chance to look into this to see if my power board has issues.

#383 3 years ago

For anyone having issues with sound dropouts or reboots, I took a quick look at the DE power driver board schematic.

The 12V bridge/cap at DB1 and C4 provide unregulated +12V which feeds (among other things) the ColorDMD and the +5V voltage regulator which drives the logic circuits.

+5V is generated from the regulator at IC1 and transistor at TR5.

If the bridge/cap above are not holding +12V properly, fast voltage changes at the input to the 5V regulator may not be tracked out and cause issues with 5V dropouts.

Please check the voltage at +12V. (An oscilloscope might be necessary to see if there are rapid voltage swings.)

If you suspect problems, consider replacing C4 and/or DB1 to see if it can resolve the issue.

1 week later
#384 3 years ago

Got the new 5.0 code installed in my Tommy this week. Big thanks to johnwartjr for burning the chips and chadh for bringing new life to the pin! It will be on free-play in Denver at the Rocky Mountain pinball showdown, Friday to Sunday. Come and play it!

#385 3 years ago
Quoted from MAJRob:

I did not use the spacers and instead just seated the display right up to speaker panel without them. This gave a little bit more clearance between the ColorDMD and the backbox which contains all the GI lights. I also only had to remove 2 lights versus 3 with not using any spacers.
Again, not the easiest installation compared to others but so worth it in the end.

Yep. I have just removed the spacers and its a much better fit, the screen is slightly closer to the plastic front panel and the ColorDMD is no longer jammed tight against the lightboard.

I'd recommend people leave the spacers out.

#386 3 years ago

Now that I´ve played a hundred games or so on my LEDified, Titanringed and completely cleaned and waxed Tommy I have to ask the experienced Tommy-players a few questions. Apart from the fact that I´m just lousy with the upper left flipper (which really hurts on this game) my outlanes are just cruel. I´ve already put both outlane posts in the downmost position but still 8 out of 10 balls disappear through those lanes. Sometimes the sling fires them directly against the outlane post and they disappear in lightning speed.
It also seems to me that those Titan Rings add a lot more spin to the balls than normal rubbers. Sometimes the ball hits the topmost sling post and due to the spin makes a very elegant right or left turn directly into the outlane. Nice!
I also have lots of bounces from the scoops, even the Tommy scoop which I only manage to hit 1 out of 10 times.
So all in all I find my Tommy a very, very challenging pin and I wanted to ask if that´s just my machine or if that is also your experience with this pin?

#387 3 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

Now that I´ve played a hundred games or so on my LEDified, Titanringed and completely cleaned and waxed Tommy I have to ask the experienced Tommy-players a few questions. Apart from the fact that I´m just lousy with the upper left flipper (which really hurts on this game) my outlanes are just cruel. I´ve already put both outlane posts in the downmost position but still 8 out of 10 balls disappear through those lanes. Sometimes the sling fires them directly against the outlane post and they disappear in lightning speed.
It also seems to me that those Titan Rings add a lot more spin to the balls than normal rubbers. Sometimes the ball hits the topmost sling post and due to the spin makes a very elegant right or left turn directly into the outlane. Nice!
I also have lots of bounces from the scoops, even the Tommy scoop which I only manage to hit 1 out of 10 times.
So all in all I find my Tommy a very, very challenging pin and I wanted to ask if that´s just my machine or if that is also your experience with this pin?

Tommy is a very difficult game. It's easily one of the hardest I own. I often refer to the sligshots as "Slings of Death" because, as you mentioned, they have a tendency to fire the ball straight down the outlanes. That being said, there are things you can do to mitigate the drains. For example, if you see the ball heading towards the upper part of the slingshot, a hard nudge forward can help direct the ball away from the outlane. Ball control is paramount with this game. Try to slow things down when you can, and carefully choose you shots. If you want to get better scores, you will need to master the upper flipper. The mirror shot is important for obvious reasons, but the right ramp is equally important. It is not only used for jackpots during multiball, but it is also how you light "Mystery".

As far as bounceouts from the mode start hole, there are a couple of things you can do to reduce them. For starters, I find it it a lot easier to consistently hit the shot with a backhand from the right flipper. You may also want to consider adding some type of no-bounce foam inside there. Neither of these things will eliminate the bounce outs, but the combination of both of them should make the game much less frustrating for you.

1 week later
#388 3 years ago

Any one in need of a full decal set for Tommy?

#389 3 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

I also have lots of bounces from the scoops, even the Tommy scoop which I only manage to hit 1 out of 10 times.

This, combined with the bounce out from the mirror hole, is the reason my Tommy sits idle. I've tried everything to resolve the issue with no luck. My brother in law loves it, but I really don't play it because of the bounce outs.

#390 3 years ago

I have never had a bounce out from the mirror hole, and very rarely have bounce outs from the scoop. This is certainly avoidable if other games aren't experiencing it. Give it another try, this is great game to be enjoyed.

Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

This, combined with the bounce out from the mirror hole, is the reason my Tommy sits idle. I've tried everything to resolve the issue with no luck. My brother in law loves it, but I really don't play it because of the bounce outs.

#391 3 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

I have never had a bounce out from the mirror hole, and very rarely have bounce outs from the scoop. This is certainly avoidable if other games aren't experiencing it. Give it another try, this is great game to be enjoyed.

The Tommy that I was borrowing didn't have this issue at all either. I wonder what makes some games have bounce outs and others to not. Unfortunately I do not have the game anymore to be able to look closely at it. I do know there were no Cliffys on the one I was using. Maybe that is a factor?

#392 3 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

This, combined with the bounce out from the mirror hole, is the reason my Tommy sits idle. I've tried everything to resolve the issue with no luck. My brother in law loves it, but I really don't play it because of the bounce outs.

do you have the Cliffy´s installed on your holes? I have and maybe they´re causing the bounce problems??

#393 3 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

do you have the Cliffy´s installed on your holes? I have and maybe they´re causing the bounce problems??

Yes he does. May be worth taking off and him trying!

#394 3 years ago

I have no cliffys on either hole. Sounds like that's what is causing the bounce outs. Maybe the cliffys are not entirely flat....

#395 3 years ago

I have cliffy's on all three holes on Tommy. For the mode start hole on the right, the bounce outs were definitely worse before the cliffy. After adding the cliffy, I still get bounce outs, but not as many. My Tommy was the one used in the PAPA tourney at SFGE this year. There were some complaints about the bounce outs, but most players just understood that it is a very prevalent problem on Tommy. You either shoot the other hole, or try to shoot the right hole by grazing off of the posts. I did put a couple pieces of foam weather stripping at the rear of the hole which does seem to help.

#396 3 years ago

I also have 3 Cliffy protectors installed in my machine - I can't say bounce outs are any worse and they don't happen often enough to bother me. The one place that does have slightly annoying bounce outs for me is the Skill Level eject lane/Extra Ball shot - I'll shoot the ball in there with a strong shot and sometimes it'll rattle out backwards back down the lane. I've pretty much learned to accept it as one of the game's quirks.

#397 3 years ago
Quoted from Number41:

The one place that does have slightly annoying bounce outs for me is the Skill Level eject lane/Extra Ball shot - I'll shoot the ball in there with a strong shot and sometimes it'll rattle out backwards back down the lane. I've pretty much learned to accept it as one of the game's quirks.

This never happens on mine. Perhaps your playfield is not steep enough?

#398 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

This never happens on mine. Perhaps your playfield is not steep enough?

It's 6.5 degrees, so pretty normal. My game does play really fast, though - so it might just sometimes be the force at which it gets launched into that lane by the flipper. It'll sometimes rattle out if it's flying in there haha.

#399 3 years ago

can somebody with the v5 code please check if their "O"-inserts in the backbox are flashing in attract mode? Mine are off and I´m not sure whether it´s a code or a connection problem

#400 3 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

can somebody with the v5 code please check if their "O"-inserts in the backbox are flashing in attract mode? Mine are off and I´m not sure whether it´s a code or a connection problem

"O" inserts .......... ?????

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