(Topic ID: 142990)

The Who's TOMMY Club - Can you hear me? Members Only!

By ChadH

8 years ago


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  • 2,291 posts
  • 191 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 38 days ago by Ive
  • Topic is favorited by 102 Pinsiders

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There are 2,291 posts in this topic. You are on page 45 of 46.
#2201 1 year ago
Quoted from J-H-K:

Hi Tommy-owners,
I would like to let you know, that I have finished my Tommy colorization project for pin2dmd very recently (after more than 2 years of work).This was a pure hobby project, so I consider it permanent beta, so try on your own risk. The files for the real pin can be found here:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/11dhu3PK8Sg3FBzesEld6-aXXUZFAGeMa?usp=sharing
For virtual:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1v6BPYducVU9t-aJl6PrIxnx-xpyits7v?usp=sharing
I have used the unofficial Tommy ROM, Mar 17, 2016, CPU 5.0
It is a 64 color project, though I did not make use of the full 64 colors most of the time, but it was more convenient for me like this.
It is more or less complete. The video mode was very challenging and is still quite buggy. If somebody wants to give it a try, I can provide the dumps and the sources of the project. If somebody knows how the 64 color palettes behave in lcm mode, I would be interested, since I could not really figure out, how they overlay. There I stuck to one 16 color palette.
Animated gifs (and also the files) can be also found on VPUniverse:
https://vpuniverse.com/files/file/13248-the-whos-tommy-pinball-wizard-data-east/

Has anyone downloaded the file? What is the end result? Keenly interested in more information.

#2202 1 year ago
Quoted from gstanczuk:

Has anyone downloaded the file? What is the end result? Keenly interested in more information.

I don't have color on my physical Tommy, but I tried it out with the virtual:

As he said, the video mode color is buggy, but still as playable as it ever was

Everything else seems to be colorized and working just fine. I haven't paid super close attention during a crazy MB or Wizard, though.

I'm personally not a fan of some of the color choices, like the green jacket in the preview gifs, but overall it's well done and definitely worth checking out if you've got the hardware

1 week later
#2203 1 year ago

Happy Saturday!

20230520_101448.jpg20230520_101448.jpg
#2204 1 year ago

Just posted joined with a fairly nice example but unfortunate this game was advertised as 100% but is missing the blinder arm.

Does anyone have a servo arm for sale?

2AA03C08-50DA-4030-A931-4EB02C2DC810 (resized).jpeg2AA03C08-50DA-4030-A931-4EB02C2DC810 (resized).jpegBDD7D0D5-44C8-431A-BE91-EE787AB650AD (resized).jpegBDD7D0D5-44C8-431A-BE91-EE787AB650AD (resized).jpeg
#2205 1 year ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

Just posted joined with a fairly nice example but unfortunate this game was advertised as 100% but is missing the blinder arm.
Does anyone have a servo arm for sale?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Try this guy - sells the individual parts

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1203-thedudemods/02682-tommy-blinder-assembly-repro

#2206 1 year ago

Thank you for the link. I'll probably place an order with them but would love it a little sooner than 2-3 weeks if someone has another spare.

Not a deal breaker but I got this to put on location and would like to get it 100% soon.

#2207 1 year ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

Just posted joined with a fairly nice example but unfortunate this game was advertised as 100% but is missing the blinder arm.
Does anyone have a servo arm for sale?
[quoted image][quoted image]

is there a spline shaft under the hex drive? I my have parts to make an arm that won't break. I used to sell a servo & arm assembly here on Pinside.

under the aluminum, arm is a Hi-tec HD servo arm, the spine shaft will fit Hitech servos. the pin is steel with a glass filled nylon roller.
A buddy bought a 3-D printed arm and the pin/roller broke off.

send me a PM and I will see what I have left.

aervo-arm2 (resized).jpgaervo-arm2 (resized).jpgarm (resized).jpgarm (resized).jpgservo-arm (resized).jpgservo-arm (resized).jpg
#2208 1 year ago

If anyone is looking for a different replacement or additional on the side topper or in game flipper bats or target decals, we made some...

We will have them with a little hole in the middle so the central metal comes trough or with a target pad (but makes it a bit thicker ).
Pictures are without the pad. Still ok if you put some mylar on.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1508-pin-decals
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target padR (resized).jpgtarget padR (resized).jpgtraget padH (resized).jpgtraget padH (resized).jpg
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#2209 1 year ago

These are pictures of the latest Arm I have made.
Using a Heavy duty Hitec servo arm modified, aluminum arm, steel dowel pin, nylon roller, press fit retainer.
Send me a PM if you need an arm. I have some parts in inventory to make them.
I can also modify a new Hitec servo to fit the original steel servo mounting base/bracket.
This arm will only fit modern standard size Hitec servos. The spine shaft is different on other brands of servos.

Bob E

tom am 1 (resized).jpgtom am 1 (resized).jpgtom arm 2 (resized).jpgtom arm 2 (resized).jpg

#2210 1 year ago

We have an odd problem on our Tommy and I was just wondering if anyone else has encountered something similar or has any suggestions.

The little metal, curved wire (is this referred to as the switch?) in the left return lane occasionally holds up the ball. A few body-bumps on the machine usually does the trick in allowing the ball to continue to roll down the return, but, of course, this can also lead to tilting the game if you bump too hard.

Is there anything to look at to keep this from happening? Is there anything that can be done to the wire? I've examined it at least once and it seems fairly flimsy, but it can still occasionally stop a rolling ball.

#2211 1 year ago
Quoted from ArgyleRuby:

We have an odd problem on our Tommy and I was just wondering if anyone else has encountered something similar or has any suggestions.
The little metal, curved wire (is this referred to as the switch?) in the left return lane occasionally holds up the ball. A few body-bumps on the machine usually does the trick in allowing the ball to continue to roll down the return, but, of course, this can also lead to tilting the game if you bump too hard.
Is there anything to look at to keep this from happening? Is there anything that can be done to the wire? I've examined it at least once and it seems fairly flimsy, but it can still occasionally stop a rolling ball.

Compare the spring tension to the in lanes and out lanes, you may have to adjust the leaf switch.
Check the wire for any binding in its slot.
Do you have enough slope on your playfield?
Does the ball roll thru the lane freely , not being pinched by the slingshot rubber?

#2212 1 year ago

I’m fairly certain those are micro switches and not leaf switches. Anyway, I’d bet the wire is getting hung up on the wooden slot because it’s bent or some other obstruction. You’ll need to prop the playfield up and look trough the hole when the switch is activated to check for free travel. The wire could just be out of alignment.

#2213 1 year ago

I was going to say this must be the first official Tommy topper, but someone just beat me to it. Introducing my Tommy topper. Made from wood with several layers to give it a nice 3d effect. Looks amazing over the silver ball . PM if interested in one.

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#2214 1 year ago

Got my blinder/arch working by disconnecting the shaker board.
But fine tuning doesn't work out.
Open is fine with potentiometer adjustments.
But closing not, 2nd potentiometer is not working
Tought defect pot on controller and got a new board from pindora box
Same story... closing pot not moving the motor
I get 10.46V and 4.96V coming in on both boards (old & new)
I have continuity from the 3 cables going to CPU board starting from this 7 pin connector on the blinder board (Clock, data and Clear)

any suggestions?

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#2215 1 year ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Got my blinder/arch working by disconnecting the shaker board.
But fine tuning doesn't work out.
Open is fine with potentiometer adjustments.
But closing not, 2nd potentiometer is not working
Tought defect pot on controller and got a new board from pindora box
Same story... closing pot not moving the motor
I get 10.46V and 4.96V coming in on both boards (old & new)
I have continuity from the 3 cables going to CPU board starting from this 7 pin connector on the blinder board (Clock, data and Clear)
any suggestions?[quoted image][quoted image]

Possibly a bad servo motor?

#2216 1 year ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Got my blinder/arch working by disconnecting the shaker board.
But fine tuning doesn't work out.
Open is fine with potentiometer adjustments.
But closing not, 2nd potentiometer is not working
Tought defect pot on controller and got a new board from pindora box
Same story... closing pot not moving the motor
I get 10.46V and 4.96V coming in on both boards (old & new)
I have continuity from the 3 cables going to CPU board starting from this 7 pin connector on the blinder board (Clock, data and Clear)
any suggestions?[quoted image][quoted image]

You might have to reset the arm on the servo. you may be at end of rotation of the servo.
Take the blinders off and see how much the servo rotates, also listen to the gear set of the servo.
Do you have the original Airtronics servo? If so the arm can be rotated 60 degrees in the direction you need to go. It has a hexagonal output shaft.

!!! Do not force the servo's rotation
!!! Do not turn the servo while it is under power

I made and sold replacement servo & Arm assemblies. I may have enough parts to make another one. Bob

#2217 1 year ago

Case closed :

Followed the manual from scratch by unmounting support arm.
Turned motor fully to the right.
Started pin
Put arm back on
Went in arch test and adjusted open position with potentiometer.

Back in business with working blinder !!

1 week later
#2218 1 year ago

Great excitement …. Just got Captain Walker 4 Engine Start !

Been a while since I got this bonus . Only 10 million points but it’s nice to see the little animation.

#2219 1 year ago
Quoted from bob_e:

Compare the spring tension to the in lanes and out lanes, you may have to adjust the leaf switch.
Check the wire for any binding in its slot.
Do you have enough slope on your playfield?
Does the ball roll thru the lane freely , not being pinched by the slingshot rubber?

I haven't had the time to open the table up yet. I'm a bit of a noob and always approach these things with trepidation - but we have made some modifications on our own and fixed some issues including replacing the blinders servo and board.

Speaking of slope, how do most people measure these things? I do think our slope is off, and one of our front legs is jammed so we can't change the height any more at the moment. I've tried a level in an app, but I don't think it's very accurate and the phone doesn't really sit completely flat anyways (at least on it's back so I could see the screen).

#2220 1 year ago

Is it just me or...
when the 'eyes' on the blinders are inverted, it almost fits perfect on the face of Keith Moon at this picture from late 60's/early 70's

Who is it.jpgWho is it.jpg

#2221 1 year ago
Quoted from Ive:

Great excitement …. Just got Captain Walker 4 Engine Start !
Been a while since I got this bonus . Only 10 million points but it’s nice to see the little animation.

Can you explain how to get this? I don't remember ever seeing it.

#2222 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Can you explain how to get this? I don't remember ever seeing it.

It happens the 4th (and consecutive) times you start the Captain Walker Bombing Run from the left ramp (spinners and ramps to drop bombs)
The first time only needs 1 shot to ramp to qualify it, second time 2 shots etc.
If you notice on the animation of the bomber each time 1 more engine / propeller will start .
The 4th time all the engines start and you get the ‘4 Engine Start’ Bonus of 10 million. A quick bonus animation alerts you to this .

If you actually just concentrate on getting it it’s not too difficult as the left ramp is fairly easy shot , and on my machine easily repeatable as the ball on return to the left flipper can be easily passed over to the right . Or even backhanded to the ramp - a bit trickier.

#2223 1 year ago
Quoted from Ive:

It happens the 4th (and consecutive) times you start the Captain Walker Bombing Run from the left ramp (spinners and ramps to drop bombs)
The first time only needs 1 shot to ramp to qualify it, second time 2 shots etc.
If you notice on the animation of the bomber each time 1 more engine / propeller will start .
The 4th time all the engines start and you get the ‘4 Engine Start’ Bonus of 10 million. A quick bonus animation alerts you to this .
If you actually just concentrate on getting it it’s not too difficult as the left ramp is fairly easy shot , and on my machine easily repeatable as the ball on return to the left flipper can be easily passed over to the right . Or even backhanded to the ramp - a bit trickier.

Thanks! I never even tried for this since I didn't know it existed. I've owned the game for around 15 years!

#2224 1 year ago

There’s a lot of really good classic stuff in Tommy. I think it’s a game that really made a statement for Lyman’s talents. He relentlessly kept making the game better and better. His interview with Jeff Teolis about Tommy is worth a listen if you’ve not heard it. A lot of Data East nostalgia hidden in that interview. A lot of the design team got to meet members of the Who and actors in the Tommy Broadway production.

#2225 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

There’s a lot of really good classic stuff in Tommy. I think it’s a game that really made a statement for Lyman’s talents. He relentlessly kept making the game better and better. His interview with Jeff Teolis about Tommy is worth a listen if you’ve not heard it. A lot of Data East nostalgia hidden in that interview. A lot of the design team got to meet members of the Who and actors in the Tommy Broadway production.

Sounds interesting! Had to go looking for it. Link for anyone else who wants to check it out:
https://www.pinballprofile.com/episode-199-pinball-wizard-turns-50/

1 week later
#2226 1 year ago

I'm in!
Just picked up a pretty nice Tommy.
Only issue is one GI string that's out. Betting on a broken wire or something similar.
Edit: Burnt connector. Who would have guessed?

A couple questions:

Anyone recognize this signature on the translite?

Also, how is the ball topper attached? Got a ball with mine, but it's just set in place loose. Thinking that a bracket of some sort is missing.
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#2227 1 year ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Also, how is the ball topper attached? Got a ball with mine, but it's just set in place loose. Thinking that a bracket of some sort is missing.

The original topper is hollow with an extended screw-in base. If you've got a silver decorative ball sitting in the hole, just... don't nudge too hard?

#2228 1 year ago
Quoted from Wylte:

The original topper is hollow with an extended screw-in base. If you've got a silver decorative ball sitting in the hole, just... don't nudge too hard?

Yup. Figured out I have a gazing ball, not an original topper.
Has a small hole in it, so I rigged up a bracket and screwed it on.
Not perfect, but pretty good. Previous owner just had it sitting there loose.

I think that signature on the translite might be Joe Kaminkow. Anyone know if that looks right?

2 weeks later
#2229 1 year ago

Just installed the speaker panel artwork from the Pinball Center, Germany. The artwork is amazing. The piece is made from a material like playfield plastics and silk screened on the back. Bought one for my DE Jurassic park also

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#2230 1 year ago
Quoted from gstanczuk:

Just installed the speaker panel artwork from the Pinball Center, Germany. The artwork is amazing. The piece is made from a material like playfield plastics and silk screened on the back. Bought one for my DE Jurassic park also
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

FYI they don't sell the US and they are crooks! Be very careful dealing with them, any damage to the product with shipping, they won't give you a credit or refund. Avoid like the plague!

#2231 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

FYI they don't sell the US and they are crooks! Be very careful dealing with them, any damage to the product with shipping, they won't give you a credit or refund. Avoid like the plague!

I did not have any issues with my purchase. The goods were packed very well to avoid any damage. The product is excellent quality. You must have had an issue with your order that wasn’t resolved to your satisfaction?

#2232 1 year ago
Quoted from gstanczuk:

I did not have any issues with my purchase. The goods were packed very well to avoid any damage. The product is excellent quality. You must have had an issue with your order that wasn’t resolved to your satisfaction?

Yes, I bought side rails from them, they came damaged. They are insured and still they wouldn't send me another pair. I asked for a credit and then they stopped responding to my emails. Bunch of thieves!

2 weeks later
#2233 11 months ago

Hi all,
I was having trouble with my right flipper on my Tommy. I changed the switch, and it was still problematic. After re seating some connectors in the head it was working great for awhile.
The problem returned, so I went back into the head and futzed with connectors again. Now the flipper works, but my lower GI went out!?
I don’t see a blown fuse, and I can’t find my manual. How do I get the G I back? Anyone?

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#2234 11 months ago

Look at/wiggle gi connectors (also unplug and re-plug) with the game in attract mode to see if you get any life. Likely burnt pins or connectors.

First place to check is the GI plug from the transformer in lower cabinet. Yellow/White wires...
Screen Shot 2023-07-26 at 11.03.38 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2023-07-26 at 11.03.38 AM (resized).png
Next, check the two power supply connectors where the GI voltage goes in/out of the board (will be on the right side of the power board) in the head. That's a total of 3 plugs you need to investigate.

The is GI circuit is also fused. Confirm with a meter by removing the fuse(s) and testing.
Screen Shot 2023-07-26 at 11.04.34 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2023-07-26 at 11.04.34 AM (resized).png

#2235 11 months ago

Thanks snyper2099
I have checked all fuses in back box, but not in cabinet yet… will try that now.
Problem is my game has newer rottendog boards which don’t seem to match my manual for fuses.

IMG_3410 (resized).jpegIMG_3410 (resized).jpegIMG_3411 (resized).jpegIMG_3411 (resized).jpeg
#2236 11 months ago

Fuses in cabinet ( on rottendog flipper board), all check as good…
Further investigation in backbox and i found a burn on a connector…
Could this be my g i problem?

IMG_3413 (resized).jpegIMG_3413 (resized).jpegIMG_3415 (resized).jpegIMG_3415 (resized).jpeg
#2237 11 months ago

Not unless the backbox GI is out. With the game on, Check the plugs I described in my previous post. One in lower cab and I circled the other two in this picture you posted:
Screen Shot 2023-07-27 at 9.35.26 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2023-07-27 at 9.35.26 AM (resized).png

Lower plug is "GI in" and upper plug is "GI out".

#2238 11 months ago

Ok will check again in the cabinet.

#2239 11 months ago

snyper2099
Thank you so much!!!
I played with the connections that you circled and voila! G I is back!
Thank you again… time to flip this pin again! So great.

IMG_3423 (resized).jpegIMG_3423 (resized).jpeg
#2240 11 months ago
Quoted from tominator:

Thank you again… time to flip this pin again! So great.

That's fine but you did not fix it by wigging wires. You will need to determine WHICH plug failed and re-pin it. Keep in mind that your problem is likely to return again, rather quickly.

1 week later
#2241 11 months ago

I just installed an amazing topper on my "Tommy" machine, and it ROCKS as much as The Who's music! It was made by pinballjah, and the quality is superb. Thank you, pinballjah! It's the crowning final touch for my machine. Long live rock!!!

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#2242 11 months ago
Quoted from Dragonfiredog:

I just installed an amazing topper on my "Tommy" machine, and it ROCKS as much as The Who's music! It was made by pinballjah, and the quality is superb. Thank you, pinballjah! It's the crowning final touch for my machine. Long live rock!!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

It looks great! Amazing collection.

#2243 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Has anyone gone with a chrome ball shooter rod on their Tommy? Think it would look good and matches the topper. Thanks for the help!

I did and really like it, let me know if you want to see a picture

#2244 11 months ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

The switch operates perfectly and all seems ok. Early days though. It’s not spring steel so I expect fatigue problems at some point and possible snapping at the neck. See how we go.

Time Bandit, how’s the spoon holding up? Looks great!

2 weeks later
#2245 10 months ago

Can a 520-5021-00 (Rev A or B?) ppb be used in Tommy pinball or is a 520-5021-05 mandatory? Thx

#2246 10 months ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Can a 520-5021-00 (Rev A or B?) ppb be used in Tommy pinball or is a 520-5021-05 mandatory? Thx

I think 05 just has additional fuses . In which case can’t see why 00 wouldn’t be ok .

#2247 10 months ago

Not ideal but, it would work. The flashers and the 32V coil outputs are not fused on the -00 board. Also, the -00 board may or may not have a varistor.

1 month later
#2248 9 months ago

bonsoir , je n'ai pas posté ici la vidéo de mon tommy restauré et fini en 2022
Erikrom tommy the who yellow edition pinsound and shaker . quel flipper génial , si steeve ritchie me sort un rocket men alors il irons bien ensemble .

1 week later
#2249 9 months ago
Quoted from erikrom:

bonsoir , je n'ai pas posté ici la vidéo de mon tommy restauré et fini en 2022
Erikrom tommy the who yellow edition pinsound and shaker . quel flipper génial , si steeve ritchie me sort un rocket men alors il irons bien ensemble .

Who made the side rails and front decal? Merci.

2 weeks later
#2250 8 months ago

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404356591693?

Interesting playfield popped up . What’s going on with the Union Jack art ? It seems to be the 3 pop bumper prototype different flag design but strange blank areas .

Poor quality photo on the listing doesn’t help.
D7947C2E-4557-4064-80FD-F244F3C06761 (resized).jpegD7947C2E-4557-4064-80FD-F244F3C06761 (resized).jpeg

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