Has anyone downloaded the file? What is the end result? Keenly interested in more information.

I don't have color on my physical Tommy, but I tried it out with the virtual:

As he said, the video mode color is buggy, but still as playable as it ever was

Everything else seems to be colorized and working just fine. I haven't paid super close attention during a crazy MB or Wizard, though.

I'm personally not a fan of some of the color choices, like the green jacket in the preview gifs, but overall it's well done and definitely worth checking out if you've got the hardware

Happy Saturday!

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Just posted joined with a fairly nice example but unfortunate this game was advertised as 100% but is missing the blinder arm.

Does anyone have a servo arm for sale?

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Try this guy - sells the individual parts

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1203-thedudemods/02682-tommy-blinder-assembly-repro

Thank you for the link. I'll probably place an order with them but would love it a little sooner than 2-3 weeks if someone has another spare.

Not a deal breaker but I got this to put on location and would like to get it 100% soon.

is there a spline shaft under the hex drive? I my have parts to make an arm that won't break. I used to sell a servo & arm assembly here on Pinside.

under the aluminum, arm is a Hi-tec HD servo arm, the spine shaft will fit Hitech servos. the pin is steel with a glass filled nylon roller.
A buddy bought a 3-D printed arm and the pin/roller broke off.

send me a PM and I will see what I have left.

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If anyone is looking for a different replacement or additional on the side topper or in game flipper bats or target decals, we made some...

We will have them with a little hole in the middle so the central metal comes trough or with a target pad (but makes it a bit thicker ).
Pictures are without the pad. Still ok if you put some mylar on.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1508-pin-decals
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These are pictures of the latest Arm I have made.
Using a Heavy duty Hitec servo arm modified, aluminum arm, steel dowel pin, nylon roller, press fit retainer.
Send me a PM if you need an arm. I have some parts in inventory to make them.
I can also modify a new Hitec servo to fit the original steel servo mounting base/bracket.
This arm will only fit modern standard size Hitec servos. The spine shaft is different on other brands of servos.

Bob E

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We have an odd problem on our Tommy and I was just wondering if anyone else has encountered something similar or has any suggestions.

The little metal, curved wire (is this referred to as the switch?) in the left return lane occasionally holds up the ball. A few body-bumps on the machine usually does the trick in allowing the ball to continue to roll down the return, but, of course, this can also lead to tilting the game if you bump too hard.

Is there anything to look at to keep this from happening? Is there anything that can be done to the wire? I've examined it at least once and it seems fairly flimsy, but it can still occasionally stop a rolling ball.

Compare the spring tension to the in lanes and out lanes, you may have to adjust the leaf switch.
Check the wire for any binding in its slot.
Do you have enough slope on your playfield?
Does the ball roll thru the lane freely , not being pinched by the slingshot rubber?

I’m fairly certain those are micro switches and not leaf switches. Anyway, I’d bet the wire is getting hung up on the wooden slot because it’s bent or some other obstruction. You’ll need to prop the playfield up and look trough the hole when the switch is activated to check for free travel. The wire could just be out of alignment.

I was going to say this must be the first official Tommy topper, but someone just beat me to it. Introducing my Tommy topper. Made from wood with several layers to give it a nice 3d effect. Looks amazing over the silver ball . PM if interested in one.

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Got my blinder/arch working by disconnecting the shaker board.
But fine tuning doesn't work out.
Open is fine with potentiometer adjustments.
But closing not, 2nd potentiometer is not working
Tought defect pot on controller and got a new board from pindora box
Same story... closing pot not moving the motor
I get 10.46V and 4.96V coming in on both boards (old & new)
I have continuity from the 3 cables going to CPU board starting from this 7 pin connector on the blinder board (Clock, data and Clear)

any suggestions?

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Possibly a bad servo motor?

You might have to reset the arm on the servo. you may be at end of rotation of the servo.
Take the blinders off and see how much the servo rotates, also listen to the gear set of the servo.
Do you have the original Airtronics servo? If so the arm can be rotated 60 degrees in the direction you need to go. It has a hexagonal output shaft.

!!! Do not force the servo's rotation
!!! Do not turn the servo while it is under power

I made and sold replacement servo & Arm assemblies. I may have enough parts to make another one. Bob

Case closed :

Followed the manual from scratch by unmounting support arm.
Turned motor fully to the right.
Started pin
Put arm back on
Went in arch test and adjusted open position with potentiometer.

Back in business with working blinder !!

Great excitement …. Just got Captain Walker 4 Engine Start !

Been a while since I got this bonus . Only 10 million points but it’s nice to see the little animation.

I haven't had the time to open the table up yet. I'm a bit of a noob and always approach these things with trepidation - but we have made some modifications on our own and fixed some issues including replacing the blinders servo and board.

Speaking of slope, how do most people measure these things? I do think our slope is off, and one of our front legs is jammed so we can't change the height any more at the moment. I've tried a level in an app, but I don't think it's very accurate and the phone doesn't really sit completely flat anyways (at least on it's back so I could see the screen).

Is it just me or...
when the 'eyes' on the blinders are inverted, it almost fits perfect on the face of Keith Moon at this picture from late 60's/early 70's

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Can you explain how to get this? I don't remember ever seeing it.

It happens the 4th (and consecutive) times you start the Captain Walker Bombing Run from the left ramp (spinners and ramps to drop bombs)
The first time only needs 1 shot to ramp to qualify it, second time 2 shots etc.
If you notice on the animation of the bomber each time 1 more engine / propeller will start .
The 4th time all the engines start and you get the ‘4 Engine Start’ Bonus of 10 million. A quick bonus animation alerts you to this .

If you actually just concentrate on getting it it’s not too difficult as the left ramp is fairly easy shot , and on my machine easily repeatable as the ball on return to the left flipper can be easily passed over to the right . Or even backhanded to the ramp - a bit trickier.

Thanks! I never even tried for this since I didn't know it existed. I've owned the game for around 15 years!

There’s a lot of really good classic stuff in Tommy. I think it’s a game that really made a statement for Lyman’s talents. He relentlessly kept making the game better and better. His interview with Jeff Teolis about Tommy is worth a listen if you’ve not heard it. A lot of Data East nostalgia hidden in that interview. A lot of the design team got to meet members of the Who and actors in the Tommy Broadway production.

Sounds interesting! Had to go looking for it. Link for anyone else who wants to check it out:
https://www.pinballprofile.com/episode-199-pinball-wizard-turns-50/

I'm in!
Just picked up a pretty nice Tommy.
Only issue is one GI string that's out. Betting on a broken wire or something similar.
Edit: Burnt connector. Who would have guessed?

A couple questions:

Anyone recognize this signature on the translite?

Also, how is the ball topper attached? Got a ball with mine, but it's just set in place loose. Thinking that a bracket of some sort is missing.
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The original topper is hollow with an extended screw-in base. If you've got a silver decorative ball sitting in the hole, just... don't nudge too hard?

Yup. Figured out I have a gazing ball, not an original topper.
Has a small hole in it, so I rigged up a bracket and screwed it on.
Not perfect, but pretty good. Previous owner just had it sitting there loose.

I think that signature on the translite might be Joe Kaminkow. Anyone know if that looks right?

Just installed the speaker panel artwork from the Pinball Center, Germany. The artwork is amazing. The piece is made from a material like playfield plastics and silk screened on the back. Bought one for my DE Jurassic park also

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FYI they don't sell the US and they are crooks! Be very careful dealing with them, any damage to the product with shipping, they won't give you a credit or refund. Avoid like the plague!

I did not have any issues with my purchase. The goods were packed very well to avoid any damage. The product is excellent quality. You must have had an issue with your order that wasn’t resolved to your satisfaction?

Yes, I bought side rails from them, they came damaged. They are insured and still they wouldn't send me another pair. I asked for a credit and then they stopped responding to my emails. Bunch of thieves!

Hi all,
I was having trouble with my right flipper on my Tommy. I changed the switch, and it was still problematic. After re seating some connectors in the head it was working great for awhile.
The problem returned, so I went back into the head and futzed with connectors again. Now the flipper works, but my lower GI went out!?
I don’t see a blown fuse, and I can’t find my manual. How do I get the G I back? Anyone?

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Look at/wiggle gi connectors (also unplug and re-plug) with the game in attract mode to see if you get any life. Likely burnt pins or connectors.

First place to check is the GI plug from the transformer in lower cabinet. Yellow/White wires...
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Next, check the two power supply connectors where the GI voltage goes in/out of the board (will be on the right side of the power board) in the head. That's a total of 3 plugs you need to investigate.

The is GI circuit is also fused. Confirm with a meter by removing the fuse(s) and testing.
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Thanks snyper2099
I have checked all fuses in back box, but not in cabinet yet… will try that now.
Problem is my game has newer rottendog boards which don’t seem to match my manual for fuses.

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Fuses in cabinet ( on rottendog flipper board), all check as good…
Further investigation in backbox and i found a burn on a connector…
Could this be my g i problem?

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Not unless the backbox GI is out. With the game on, Check the plugs I described in my previous post. One in lower cab and I circled the other two in this picture you posted:
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Lower plug is "GI in" and upper plug is "GI out".

Ok will check again in the cabinet.

snyper2099
Thank you so much!!!
I played with the connections that you circled and voila! G I is back!
Thank you again… time to flip this pin again! So great.

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That's fine but you did not fix it by wigging wires. You will need to determine WHICH plug failed and re-pin it. Keep in mind that your problem is likely to return again, rather quickly.

I just installed an amazing topper on my "Tommy" machine, and it ROCKS as much as The Who's music! It was made by pinballjah, and the quality is superb. Thank you, pinballjah! It's the crowning final touch for my machine. Long live rock!!!

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It looks great! Amazing collection.

I did and really like it, let me know if you want to see a picture

Time Bandit, how’s the spoon holding up? Looks great!

Can a 520-5021-00 (Rev A or B?) ppb be used in Tommy pinball or is a 520-5021-05 mandatory? Thx

I think 05 just has additional fuses . In which case can’t see why 00 wouldn’t be ok .

Not ideal but, it would work. The flashers and the 32V coil outputs are not fused on the -00 board. Also, the -00 board may or may not have a varistor.

bonsoir , je n'ai pas posté ici la vidéo de mon tommy restauré et fini en 2022
Erikrom tommy the who yellow edition pinsound and shaker . quel flipper génial , si steeve ritchie me sort un rocket men alors il irons bien ensemble .

Who made the side rails and front decal? Merci.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404356591693?

Interesting playfield popped up . What’s going on with the Union Jack art ? It seems to be the 3 pop bumper prototype different flag design but strange blank areas .

Poor quality photo on the listing doesn’t help.
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