right next to the bridge rectifier I had leaking electrolytic capacitors that were replaced. note the heat from the heat sink and rectifier was the suspected cause. look in the red circle.

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cfh thanks for the reply. Sounds about as problematic as any other pin then I suppose. Being that it'll be my first I don't really want anything that's overly problematic or complicated to maintain. But other then the blinders everything else seems to be pretty standard parts. I think I'll be able to handle the basic playfield maintenance and soldering in new components like flippers and slingshots etc, but when it comes to boards I'm way outa my depths lol. What's a PPB board? I'm basically familiar with the other boards and what they do but not sure what a PPB is? (google isn't helping lol) And What causes the GI connectors to burn? Can it be prevented? Do they come a little loose and not connected properly or something like that? Does installing LED's help to put less load on them? Leaking caps and a burning game doesn't sound great though lol But I assume it can be prevented by periodically replacing the caps. And honestly I don't have a lot of choice. My budgets pretty limited and I'm tryin to pick up a pin locally. Not a lot around here. But don't get me wrong. Really like the look of Tommy's game play and keen asf to play it and quite possibly own it.

PPB is the "popcorn popper" board. seriously that was what DE called it, at least internally. it's the lower center board (the lower right board being the sound board.) GI connectors burn because like williams, DE pushed the number of light bulbs in the game right to the edge of what the connectors could handle (amp draw-wise.) So over time they just burn.

If you tackle the list i posted, probably won't have to deal with it ever again. and if you go to LED lights for the GI (general illumination), you'll never burn another GI connector.

Thanks for the replies guys bob_e and @cfh. Came across a Tommy machine on the pinball repair page on FB the other day and was just gunna follow the post and see what's wrong with it.......And then I noticed it was the machine I want to buy So the owner of the machine typed the next paragraph and I can't give you much more info than what's already there unfortunately. I can relay messages though. Tried to get him on here but his a busy man so offered to do it for him. After all I'm as keen to get it working right as he is. Said he's got a mate with a multimeter and a few ideas so hopefully he can sort it out but was hoping you guys might have some ideas?

Hi guys. Absolute novice here and looking for some advice. I have a Tommy machine that powers up and can usually play a game or 2. After that though the dmd goes blank and game shuts down. Lights are on the machine still but that's it. No sound, nothing else working. I can turn it off for an hour or over night and it will repeat this process. Previous owner replaced power supply and boards from what he has advised. Complete novus.... any idea where to start? Thanks in advance

Just picked up my Tommy a couple days ago (3rd one I’ve owned….it just keep finding it’s way back home to me..hahaha). Ordered Pinsound for it a couple weeks ago. Expecting it here soon. I know there are a number of different orchestrations for Tommy on Pinsound. That’s one of the response I got this one back. Wanting to hear The Who and not the Broadway Musical versions. Personal preferences on The Who versions? I see there are a number of them and am ready to experiment a bit. Appreciate any guidance.

Thanks.

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Received my Pinsound order. Now I see the power booster for DE games. Have you had experience with that? I didn't know about it and didn't order it. Hoping I won't need to. Any help?

Thanks.

I did a few. If you want pure Who music, I suggest this one. Let know what you think.

https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/file/302-all-who-songs_pinballjah-v2/

Thanks pinballjah. I did download your latest version. I installed the thumbdrive. After downloading, I got the attract music to play. However whenever I start a game I get zero sound. I tried a couple other versions and had the same non results. Disappointing. Can I assume that a booster will fix that? I sent a message to Pinsound and am waiting for a reply. Do you think that the booster will solve that?

Thanks

I installed my recently purchased Pinsound board and speakers yesterday in my Tommy. . Had some issues with the files initially but worked through it with Nicolas at Pinsound and help from here. My issue is the headphones master. I installed it and went to use it, but the knob has nonstop to it and it doesn’t adjust the volume (meaning the knob just spins and spins all the way around…no way to turn it to 0 to change files or get any volume changes). I’m assuming it’s a defective unit? I reached out to Pinsound and am awaiting a reply. Anyone else have this issue ever?
I have the same setup installed in my IJ and it works great. This install is in a DE Tommy.
Thanks.

I had little luck with the volume control on the the headphone jack unit. It goes from 0 to 100 with nothing in-between. I just leave it at 100 and so it does not come into play when I am playing. I only use the jack unit when I use headphones. Love the Pinshound board and shaker, but not a big fan of the Headphone jack unit.

Not sure? Never used a booster cable on m in

I had this issue but can't remember the solution. As Nicolas as he was able to help me with mine. For me the volume went from very low to very high with not much in between. They all work fine now.

Saw something new today on my Tommy, “Lyman bonus”.

Try disconnecting this cable from the soundcard. See if it solves the problem.

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Got this from Timothee regarding the dial on the headphone jack:

“ HPS changed from analog pot to digital encoder few month ago to give a more up to date feeling, and we also plan to release another product making use of this encoder. That's why your board needed a software update to run it. I do confirm the dial is not a potentiometer, it's a step encoder with much more accuracy.
Both ends (min and max) are informed with a chime for user information.“

I got my sound issue worked out. Timothee had me update the firmware and we double checked the install connections. All good now.

Thanks Timothee and Nicolas.

Old question, I know.

The only time I ever hear the knock is when I get a new high score. That can be a rare event, unless you reset the high score at a very low level.

I assume that it works in the solenoid test.

I am getting ready to install the new vinyl artwork for Tommy. But this is the modified artwork with The Who on it.

I have questions about installing the coin door side.

The entire coin door artwork is shown in the first photo.

If I try to align the cross with the start button, the vinyl does not cover the top of the coin door (last photo).

If I center the artwork, the cross is partially cut out by the start button (middle photo).

Of course, 'Miracle Cure' is obliterated by the shooter, no matter how I align it.

Suggestions?

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Pretty cool! Who makes that?

I would just massage the front decal around enough to evaluate the best position it should / could be in, based upon the; start button / coin door / shooter rod / left & right edges / plus top and bottom edges.

Only you'll be happy with your decision.

Kerry

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/the-whos-tommy-hand-drawn-pinball-cabinet-decals/

I am thinking that no location is going to make me happy with this mod on the coin door. I think that it just was not thought out as well as I would have liked. The example that they show (see photo) shows that they did not try to line up the start button with the 'cross'. I think that the designer should have worked something else in for the start button.

I think the side art is an improvement, especially with the music on my pin now being The Who and not the original inferior broadway play. But I expect better.

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I tried one of their alternative Tommy transites - was very disappointed. The colours were very muted … the reds more a muddy brown. Some areas of white had a strange mottled effect, others didn’t. Some the line work looked very low res.
I got rid of it.

Re: coin door decal... I think I would;

1) drop it about 3/8" to remove ALL the covered up "Smash the mirror" above coin door. This should allow All of the "Tommy's Holiday Camp" to be seen below coin door.

2) Shift it a bit to the right to show All of "It's a Boy"

These 2 suggestions "if" there is enough decal edge to do so.

I agree it could have been designed better especially with wording that is partially hid by coin door and/or lock down bar and start / plunger areas.

Send us picts when done.

Thanks
Kerry

I have looked at mine, not in the glass yet, and it looks pretty good. You can see it in the photo above. Is that the same as yours?

I think the cabinet art is a mixed bag. At first, I did not like the way the artwork was transformed from the original photo. It also looks low rez. But after looking at it for a while, I think I am going to be satisfied with it. I have yet to install it.

I have painted the cabinet to match the background of the artwork, in case any seams show through. The problem I have right now is that I want to restore the artwork on the top of the backbox, so that the writing reflects off the 'silverball' properly. I can make a clear decal, but I cannot print white. Printing it as black lettering likely will not show up. I will experiment with yellow lettering. If not, I will have to have a clear decal made at a pro shop someplace with white lettering.

I think that is a good idea. Not sure there is enough room on the edges of the decal to do that. I cannot get the 'cross' centered on the start button without leaving a gap at the top.

Not sure how much of a gap I could leave and let the lockdown bar cover it, nor if that is a good idea since the decal might start lifting there with several removals and reinstalls of the lock down bar.

Has anyone gone with a chrome ball shooter rod on their Tommy? Think it would look good and matches the topper. Thanks for the help!

Anglais
Goodnight all . for quite a few years, a goal was anchored in mind to find this pretty and good flipper the tommy. It was made in 2022, with a model with a slightly worn, dirty, but decent tray. at an unfortunately current price. 4k euros. Given its low plateau wear and its perfect functionality, including the fan, I had to resolve it. So here he is at home. Complete tray disassembly, serious cleaning, then novus 3.2.1 then installation of a playfield protector for a vitrified and shiny appearance and real protection. Thus it will hold until the future and distant era of zombies.
Change and complete study of the lighting, new translucent elastics, new sets, new targets, cliffy protection. and art blade interior sticker, speaker sticker, door sticker. paint still yellow. and finally custom engraved side rail. At the end of September, during a pinball show in France, the pinsound full kit will deliver the coup de grace. Question game, this pinball machine is a real slap in our faces and our ears at each game. I'll never grow tired .

français
Bonsoir a tous . depuis pas mal d'années, un objectif etait ancré en tete de trouver ce jolie et bon flipper le tommy. Ce fut fait en 2022 , avec un modele au plateau peu usé , sale , mais convenable . a un prix malheureusement d'actualité . 4k euros .compte tenu sa faible usure plateau et sa fonctionnalité parfaite y compris l'evantail , j'ai du m'y resoudre . Le voila donc a la maison . demontage plateau complet , nettoyage serieux , puis novus 3.2.1 puis pose d'un playfield protector pour aspect vitrifié et brillant et une vrai protection. Ainsi il tiendra j'usqu'a l'ere futur et lointain des zombies .
Changement et etude complete de l'eclairage , elsatiques translucides neufs , decors neufs , cibles neuves , protection cliffy . et sticker art blade interieur de caisse , speaker sticker , door sticker . peinture toujours jaunes . et enfin side rail sur mesure gravé . Fin septembre a l'occasion d'un salon du flipper en france le full kit pinsound portera le coup de grace . Question jeu , ce flipper est une veritable claque dans nos visages et nos oreilles a chaque partie . je ne m'en lasserai jamais .

Nice. I like the yellow cut out side rails.

Splendid example of the game. You need only add a color DMD to finish it off.

Looks amazing! Where can I buy the side rails, hinges, and speaker panel decal? I have been thinking of powdercoating my Tommy and I may have to go with yellow as well, like the look! Merci.

I have found the things I needed. Thanks to all!

The only thing I can offer is the original blinder PCB and a new motor for it. I had trouble with the original, so I ordered replacements, then fixed the board.

This has been sitting around for a few years, but worked perfectly when I tested it. I cannot try it right now since my Tommy is in parts for new cabinet artwork.

Thank you lhammer610!

I am in need of some more Tommy help. Can someone follow where these 2 plugs with three wires each end up connecting IN THE HEAD? Right hand side of the head, coming out of main playfield harness.

I didn’t see these two connections in the manual.

Totally guessing the wires go to the power supply board (or most do) but, not certain.
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Here's a better picture of the two male wire harnesses in the cabinet that I need to create (not my game in picture below)... Definitely look to be going to power supply. Why is this not documented in the manual? So frustrating.

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I only looked for the Blue/white wire to see where it went. That wire comes from CN4 +18V lamp driver. It looks like it's tapping off that supply. I think I followed it correctly down to the Coindoor connector. I did a continuity test to verify. However, on the other side of the connector the wires are cut. Didn't track the other colored wires. That's all I got. Sorry.

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I have traced out and confirmed all of these wires in my Tommy restoration thread.

Difficult for me to get to or see well, but the blue/wht wire goes to a bridge rectifier and fuse on the far left side of the backbox. There is a blue/wht wire on both sides of the lower fuse. Also on the top left and bottom right lug of the BR.

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Schematic for that area...

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That’s not the correct area. Plugs are on the right side of the head, have gry/org and gry/red wires.

Targets are spoken for.

^^^^^^^^^^ They are free of charge, just pay for shipping, continental USA only^^^^^^^

Targets are spoken for.

Can someone please trace the wires for the “GND” CN10 connector (single yellow wire looped through two pins) on the power supply? My game is missing this wire. The schematic does not seem to state where the wires goes.

I know it’s a ground but I’m not sure where it end’s up.

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Not home right now, but I believe it is in the display harness and goes straight to the display connector

Hmmm, odd. I guess they doubled it up, I do already have a ground in that harness from the main power connector on the PSU.

Am trying to resurrect a Tommy. I know all pins cabinets have plugs that are not used, but I would like to check to see if I have missed anything:

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This one appears to come out of the power switch box, so I expect it has 120 V AC on it?

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This comes out of the wiring harness near the speaker connection.

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I have no clue as to what these would be for.

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I would expect this is used for the bill validator, so not used.

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These come out of the harness that goes to the coin door. There are two plugs here, but the picture is not great. The one pointing down with a black and white wire is one of the two in question. The other is the 6 pin IDC.

The 3 pin gray wire one by the speaker is no connection.
The two pin with 120AC is no connection.
Yes, the square 9 pin is for a adding a DBV to the coin door.

I believe that the two large plugs on the power box side are for "foreign coin counter boards".

The straight 6 pin @ the coin door connector might be for the shaker motor control board. (I'm only saying that because I noticed your game is a Taiwan re-import machine. The one I own was from Taiwan too and appears to have a factory installed shaker motor in it.)

Does yours happen to have a shaker?

Also, crazy question... WHY is your cabinet BLUE?

Welcome to the Tommy resurrection club!

Thank you for all of that.

Only Taiwan reimports have the shaker board? It is listed in the manual (that did not come with this game). I saw nothing in the cabinet or game to indicate that it ever had any other language than English. There is nothing in the software to activate the shaker and from what I have read, DE never did the software for it.

I got this at an auction several years ago for $750. Cabinet got wet. Had 7 blown fuses. I found only one bad transistor. Replaced the fuses and everything worked. Playfield cleaned up very well, only had to do a few repairs.

I put in a PinSound board and shaker. It is now playing The Who now instead of the original Broadway cast music.

I have had a cabinet maker replace the damaged wood. Replaced the bottom, back and one side. Would have been easier to build a new cabinet from scratch, but he did not know that at the time. So I sanded, primed, then painted with a color to match the new side art.

Getting to the finish line.

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Never realized Tommy didn’t come with a shaker, never thought to add one. Good to know.

There is really only one way to add a shaker to Tommy, that I know of - through PinSound.

I helped Pinshakers research adding theirs to Tommy. But with the AC relay that it uses, they could not get it to work. Strange thing is that Pinshakers claims to be able to install a shaker in Williams System 11 pins. The DE system 3 is a darned close copy of what Williams did.

Up and working now. Since the cabinet was so badly water damaged, I took a chance and used the alternative artwork that has The Who on it to go with the new soundboard. For the most part, I am pleased.
I still need to bead blast and repaint the lock down bar, create the reflection decal on the top of the cabinet for the 'silver ball'; and, since I needed to use longer leg bolts (surprise!) with the upgraded leg bolt brackets, I need to paint them.

Onto the next project - Funhouse playfield transfer - my second one.

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This looks awesome! Well done!