(Topic ID: 142990)

The Who's TOMMY Club - Can you hear me? Members Only!

By ChadH

6 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 2,016 posts
  • 166 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by LOTR_breath
  • Topic is favorited by 85 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20211113_112843 (resized).jpg
20211112_093018 (resized).jpg
20211111_225044 (resized).jpg
20211007_113128 (resized).jpg
20211007_112538 (resized).jpg
20211007_112427 (resized).jpg
20211007_122313 (resized).jpg
20211007_122345 (resized).jpg
E14185A4-73A1-45C1-9FA9-0B4695A45A32 (resized).jpeg
20211105_190356 (resized).jpg
BC91C84C-3FB8-4096-A71D-1CCA663C3D99 (resized).jpeg
20211016_080553 (resized).jpg
20210906_150352.jpg
Tommy (resized).jpg
6598a90c889babcb0d0604b5685e3eed (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png

There are 2,016 posts in this topic. You are on page 40 of 41.
#1951 3 months ago
Quoted from bsrhardy:

Thanks for all the help from this community. I am almost there. The only thing kicking my ass is this mirror test.
I can get in DIAG, GOTO Mirror Test, but can only test the UP. I cannot seem to find a way to test the DOWN. I cannot, even trying every button, to get the test to change to DOWN.
I need a bit of handholding here. Thoughts or guidance.

Sounds like your motor is gone, and the connection needs help. I just had to replace my motor. Marco has them. Definitely check your connection, though. It should attempt to go down.

#1952 3 months ago
Quoted from bsrhardy:

Thanks for all the help from this community. I am almost there. The only thing kicking my ass is this mirror test.
I can get in DIAG, GOTO Mirror Test, but can only test the UP. I cannot seem to find a way to test the DOWN. I cannot, even trying every button, to get the test to change to DOWN.
I need a bit of handholding here. Thoughts or guidance.

Just checked on my machine-- when you're in diagnostics on the mirror test, the start button runs the motor for the mirror. the motor only goes one direction, so you can't "reverse" it. Picture a clock and at "12" is the up limit switch and "6" is the down limit switch. As the hand moves around the clock, it should engage the "Up" switch at "12" and the "Down" switch at "6."

12 and 6 may not be the actual placement for the limit switches, that's just easier to think about. If you lift the playfield, you're looking for a switch on two extremes of that motor's travel.

I'll upload a video of the test in action in just a few; phone died right after I took the video.

EDIT: here you go.. uploaded to youtube as an unlisted video, never had to post a video on pinside before so not sure if there's a better way! In the video I'm just holding the start button.. you can see the mirror go up, then back down, then back up, and register "UP" and "DOWN" at the appropriate times.

Also I think this is the mechanism underneath (page 56 of the english manual on IPDB.org). The two switches are circled in red; that's likely where you'll find the problem (or at least the next clue).

pasted_image (resized).png
#1953 3 months ago

Perfect, thanks for the help. I can hear it clicking but it doesn't move. Time to replace.

#1954 3 months ago
Quoted from bsrhardy:

Perfect, thanks for the help. I can hear it clicking but it doesn't move. Time to replace.

Might also be worth checking to see if the cam attached to the motor (the part that spins around and actually touches the switches) is jammed somehow. Seems possible that the cam may have come loose and collided with something it shouldn't, which could have damaged the motor.

Not sure if those motors will "slip" if they're over-torqued or not. I can imagine a scenario where the cam is bound and the motor is slipping to protect itself from damage. That could result in the clicking you're hearing, and would mean the motor doesn't need replacing-- just a cam set-screw adjustment.

That's a lot of if's, but worth checking and saving yourself $75 or whatever a motor is gonna cost you. I guess if you find the cam to appear jammed, you could probably just remove the cam from the motor and see if the motor runs without the cam attached.

Someone with more repair experience might have a better idea as well, this is just one amateur's thoughts.

#1955 3 months ago

Marco has them. Easy to replace. You will have to repin the connector . I just had to go it.

#1956 3 months ago

I love this pin so much.

#1957 3 months ago
Quoted from RojerLockless:

I love this pin so much.

It’s a grand pin. Can’t beat the modes, shots and the blinder is too cool

#1958 3 months ago

Does anyone do a speaker panel decal for Tommy?
Most other pins have an aftermarket one.
The Metallica one from Retro refurbs May work?

#1959 3 months ago
Quoted from Sandman454:

Does anyone do a speaker panel decal for Tommy?
Most other pins have an aftermarket one.
The Metallica one from Retro refurbs May work?

Always wanted that as well. On the same note, anyone ever considered powder coating their Tommy? Thanks.

#1960 3 months ago
Quoted from Sandman454:

Does anyone do a speaker panel decal for Tommy?
Most other pins have an aftermarket one.
The Metallica one from Retro refurbs May work?

Don't think it will fit as made for a Stern not Data East.

1 week later
#1961 3 months ago

Hi guys, I'm ordering a new rubber kit for my Tommy and I was suprised to see that the game actually uses 17x 1/2" post sleeves (marked by H in the picture), apparently below the rubber ring in the same position. I currently do not have these installed.

Am I correct that these 1/2 sleeves should go below the rubber ring and around the plastic post (which have the dent which holds the rubber ring)?

Thanks!

6598a90c889babcb0d0604b5685e3eed (resized).jpg
#1962 3 months ago
Quoted from Svend:

Hi guys, I'm ordering a new rubber kit for my Tommy and I was suprised to see that the game actually uses 17x 1/2" post sleeves (marked by H in the picture), apparently below the rubber ring in the same position. I currently do not have these installed.
Am I correct that these 1/2 sleeves should go below the rubber ring and around the plastic post (which have the dent which holds the rubber ring)?
Thanks![quoted image]

Yes, you are correct. Titan has them in colors,too.

#1963 3 months ago
Quoted from Svend:

Am I correct that these 1/2 sleeves should go below the rubber ring and around the plastic post (which have the dent which holds the rubber ring)?

Quoted from HIPPY:

Yes, you are correct. Titan has them in colors, too.

Yep. I did white rings with grey post sleeves. I think the combo looks great ...

Tommy (resized).jpg
#1964 3 months ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Yep. I did white rings with grey post sleeves. I think the combo looks great ...[quoted image]

Those look great. You are right, good combo. I got blue posts with red rings. Good job.
Tommy is my oldest, higher maintenance, but, it is a keeper.

2 weeks later
#1965 84 days ago

Hey,
I can now finally say I'm part of the Tommy's family!
Next things to do: buy new blinders and a new topper.

P.S. It's still on ROM v.3.00, do you suggest me upgrading to 4.00 or to 5.00? Thanks!

20210906_150352.jpg
#1966 84 days ago
Quoted from Blamer:

Hey,
I can now finally say I'm part of the Tommy's family!
Next things to do: buy new blinders and a new topper.
P.S. It's still on ROM v.3.00, do you suggest me upgrading to 4.00 or to 5.00? Thanks!
[quoted image]

Congratulations. Amazing game. Definitely get the blinders. Consider sound upgrades with pinwoofer for umph, and Pinsound for a better score and quality.

#1967 83 days ago
Quoted from zahner:

Congratulations. Amazing game. Definitely get the blinders. Consider sound upgrades with pinwoofer for umph, and Pinsound for a better score and quality.

Thanks, you're right, added to the to do list!

#1968 81 days ago
Quoted from Blamer:

Hey,
I can now finally say I'm part of the Tommy's family!
Next things to do: buy new blinders and a new topper.
P.S. It's still on ROM v.3.00, do you suggest me upgrading to 4.00 or to 5.00? Thanks!
[quoted image]

Def upgrade to Chads 5.0 code - a lot of improvements !

https://www.pinballcode.com/tommy5

#1969 81 days ago
Quoted from Ive:

Def upgrade to Chads 5.0 code - a lot of improvements !
https://www.pinballcode.com/tommy5

Agree; I was hesitant to do so at first but I’ve never looked back. Modes are a lot more fun, more usage of the blinders, etc.

#1970 81 days ago
Quoted from Ive:

Def upgrade to Chads 5.0 code - a lot of improvements !
https://www.pinballcode.com/tommy5

I had no idea this was made! Im Happy to donate, but dont know who might be burning these ROMs,
and offering the final product.

Any suggestions?

#1971 81 days ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

I had no idea this was made! Im Happy to donate, but dont know who might be burning these ROMs,
and offering the final product.
Any suggestions?

Astill

#1972 78 days ago
Quoted from Ive:

Def upgrade to Chads 5.0 code - a lot of improvements !
https://www.pinballcode.com/tommy5

Good to know the upgrade is from Chad! I had his ROM too on my previous Lethal Weapon 3 pin and it was a great improvement over the stock one.
Definitely getting it!

#1973 75 days ago

Blinders: DONE. Bought new blinders, servo (thanks Bakerman) and controller.


I will replace the stickers with darker ones

ROM (v.5) arriving in a few days

Next step: Topper

3 weeks later
#1974 53 days ago

I have an odd (and old) problem with my Tommy, I think it is somehow related to the power supply.

Up to 4 years ago I ran my Tommy with a LED OCD, but I would see issues with jackpots randomly being score during multiball. I removed the LED OCD (and moved the machine to my work) and it ran perfectly again.

I have now again moved the game a few months ago and it has run good, apart from the occasional slow start from the DMD (garbage till apr. 20 seconds after booting) and sometimes the CPU appeared to run at half speed: Lamps would flash slow, sounds would play delayed.

Now, tonight I have also reinstalled the LED OCD and the DMD now fails to start often, I have seen the CPU issue multiple times and the random jackpots during multiball have returned.

Is there any chance that the LED OCD draws extra current from the lamp matrix circuit and messes up a lot of other other things? I played a game with the multimeter hooked up to the 5V CPU test point, and it was rock steady between 4,88V - 4,90V which is a good value I think.

Any advice welcome, thanks!

#1975 53 days ago
Quoted from Svend:

I have an odd (and old) problem with my Tommy, I think it is somehow related to the power supply.
Up to 4 years ago I ran my Tommy with a LED OCD, but I would see issues with jackpots randomly being score during multiball. I removed the LED OCD (and moved the machine to my work) and it ran perfectly again.
I have now again moved the game a few months ago and it has run good, apart from the occasional slow start from the DMD (garbage till apr. 20 seconds after booting) and sometimes the CPU appeared to run at half speed: Lamps would flash slow, sounds would play delayed.
Now, tonight I have also reinstalled the LED OCD and the DMD now fails to start often, I have seen the CPU issue multiple times and the random jackpots during multiball have returned.
Is there any chance that the LED OCD draws extra current from the lamp matrix circuit and messes up a lot of other other things? I played a game with the multimeter hooked up to the 5V CPU test point, and it was rock steady between 4,88V - 4,90V which is a good value I think.
I read on this website https://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index3.htm#lamp that the 12V for the DMD is generated from the 18V from the lamp matrix. Since the DMD has more issues working correctly with the LED OCD connected, is there any chance that something in the 18V circuit has gone wrong?
Any advice welcome, thanks!

I think the LED actually draws less current than the original DMD. I had a power issue with my Tommy when I first got it. The original DMD wouldn't work but when I swapped it out for the COLORDMD, haven't had an issue since. I was told the COLORDMD used less power. Not sure if that helps?

#1976 53 days ago

I'm not talking about a LED color DMD, but about a LED OCD board used to fade the insert leds

#1977 53 days ago
Quoted from Svend:

I'm not talking about a LED color DMD, but about a LED OCD board used to fade the insert leds

I was right, doesn't help Sorry about that.

#1978 52 days ago
Quoted from Svend:

I have an odd (and old) problem with my Tommy, I think it is somehow related to the power supply.
Up to 4 years ago I ran my Tommy with a LED OCD, but I would see issues with jackpots randomly being score during multiball. I removed the LED OCD (and moved the machine to my work) and it ran perfectly again.
I have now again moved the game a few months ago and it has run good, apart from the occasional slow start from the DMD (garbage till apr. 20 seconds after booting) and sometimes the CPU appeared to run at half speed: Lamps would flash slow, sounds would play delayed.
Now, tonight I have also reinstalled the LED OCD and the DMD now fails to start often, I have seen the CPU issue multiple times and the random jackpots during multiball have returned.
Is there any chance that the LED OCD draws extra current from the lamp matrix circuit and messes up a lot of other other things? I played a game with the multimeter hooked up to the 5V CPU test point, and it was rock steady between 4,88V - 4,90V which is a good value I think.
Any advice welcome, thanks!

You could try rebuilding the power supply. Or just put in a new one. Cheaper than the Led ocd board.

https://www.pinballlife.com/rottendog-data-east-power-supply-board.html

#1979 52 days ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

You could try rebuilding the power supply. Or just put in a new one. Cheaper than the Led ocd board.
https://www.pinballlife.com/rottendog-data-east-power-supply-board.html

One of the takeaways from reading the High End Pins thread since the beginning is Rottendog products are garbage.

1 week later
#1980 43 days ago

I have a Davi's trough board (opto type replacement) if anyone is interested with wiring harness. 120 shipped . Shoot me a PM if interested....

20211016_080553 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1981 35 days ago

Have a lead on one... But perhaps a little closer... Anybody looking to move theirs?

#1982 32 days ago
Quoted from zahner:

The game always had blinders as far as I know and they are a must. Once you upgrade the software to v5.0 (think that’s the version designation), they are used a bit more. Several folks make a reproduction. Here is a blinder set up on Pinside:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1203-thedudemods/02682-tommy-blinder-assembly-repro

Has anyone ordered these dudesmod blinders from Tommy? Starting to work on mine and noticed that the blinders are missing.

#1983 32 days ago

New dust cover for glass

BC91C84C-3FB8-4096-A71D-1CCA663C3D99 (resized).jpeg
#1984 31 days ago

Any ideas or help on this issue please. Much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

#1985 31 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

New dust cover for glass
[quoted image]

I like that.

#1986 31 days ago

Thanks, got it on Collage.com. It was free but they charged me $17 shipping. Fits well on the pins. Does the job.

#1987 31 days ago
Quoted from Sandman454:

Any ideas or help on this issue please. Much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Quoted from Sandman454:

Any ideas or help on this issue please. Much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Did you check all the fuses?

#1988 30 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Did you check all the fuses?

Yes all fuses checked and tested.
Also replaced powerboard. As it was much worse with no light activity or sound and DMD stopped.
Hopefully I can get to the bottom of it.

#1989 28 days ago
Quoted from Sandman454:

Any ideas or help on this issue please. Much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Try re-seating all ribbon cables.

#1990 28 days ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Try re-seating all ribbon cables.

Got it fixed.
Reseated all cable connections.
Was better but Still had an issue
.
Rechecked sound to cpu board.
This fixed remaining issue.
All working
Put old power board back in to test.
No good was back to stage 1 of problem(Could not see any visible issues with board and fuses and holders checked good).
Put XPin powerboard back in and all working as it should.
-Old power board has an issue that I may have looked at for spare.
Thanks.

#1991 27 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

New dust cover for glass
[quoted image]

That's Smexy how much / where'd you get something like that? Depending on price I might snag one.

Or maybe I can just get a friend to print out something who related on a banner and drape it over it in the same kind of way hmmm.

#1992 26 days ago
Quoted from RojerLockless:That's Smexy how much / where'd you get something like that? Depending on price I might snag one.
Or maybe I can just get a friend to print out something who related on a banner and drape it over it in the same kind of way hmmm.

Came from Collage.com, basically free but $15 shipping in US. Try the code ‘GIVETHANKS’ or search online for free blanket. It is the 30x40 size. I just ordered another 4, just paid shipping.

#1993 23 days ago

Got a weird issue on the Tommy I'm working on for a friend. When in attract mode, pushing the flipper buttons triggers coils.

Left button: first the through upkicker fires, after that the autoshooter fires.
Right button: the autoshooter fires.

Noticed that they do share a wire, purple-orange.

Anyone got a clue?

20211105_190356 (resized).jpg
#1994 22 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Got a weird issue on the Tommy I'm working on for a friend. When in attract mode, pushing the flipper buttons triggers coils.
Left button: first the through upkicker fires, after that the autoshooter fires.
Right button: the autoshooter fires.
Noticed that they do share a wire, purple-orange.
Anyone got a clue? [quoted image]

The switch matrix does have some common rows between the flippers, shooter lane switch, and trough.

My money would be on those last two switch rows needing some attention. I’ve only ever troubleshot switch columns/rows that DIDN’T work, so obviously this is a different problem (one switch triggering multiple), but I’m pretty sure it’s a similar process to find/fix.
E14185A4-73A1-45C1-9FA9-0B4695A45A32 (resized).jpeg

#1995 22 days ago
Quoted from JStoltz:

The switch matrix does have some common rows between the flippers, shooter lane switch, and trough.
My money would be on those last two switch rows needing some attention. I’ve only ever troubleshot switch columns/rows that DIDN’T work, so obviously this is a different problem (one switch triggering multiple), but I’m pretty sure it’s a similar process to find/fix.
[quoted image]

The more I think about this, the more I’m convinced.

I think you hitting the right flipper is tripping the shooter lane switch (same row), which tells the machine there’s an unexpected ball in attract mode, causing it to auto-plunge to get it back to the trough.

And hitting the left flipper might be tripping the ball trough switch for ball #7 (are there actually 7 balls in this game, or 6?) which might be telling the machine there are too many balls and it needs to get rid of one (or at least eject one so they can re-load in the trough properly). I would guess the auto-plunge in this case is just the result of the shooter lane switch being tripped (normal behavior) and not actually part of the problem.

I’m curious to know what you find out!

#1996 18 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Got a weird issue on the Tommy I'm working on for a friend. When in attract mode, pushing the flipper buttons triggers coils.
Left button: first the through upkicker fires, after that the autoshooter fires.
Right button: the autoshooter fires.
Noticed that they do share a wire, purple-orange.
Anyone got a clue? [quoted image]

SOLVED! The issue was a weird one haha.
The left ramp entry switch was stuck on because it was held by 2 (too tiny) nails instead of 2 screws.
With all 6 balls in the through while the left ramp entry was activated, pushing the flipper buttons sent the game into a state that should not be possible: no balls in play, yet switches are activated.

Ones I took the nails out of the switch and put the correct screws in, the issue was solved. Don't ask me how long it took to find the solution JStoltz your comments got me to find the issue, thank you very much! The left ramp entry is in the same column as the left and right flipper haha.

#1997 18 days ago

Hey folks- new here. What an awesome group!

My Tommy machine has never had the bomber plastic. When I bought it I thought I’d replace it but I haven’t been able to find one (I’ve owned this machine for 9 years!).

Any thoughts on what to do?

Cheers!

#1998 18 days ago
Quoted from Stoaks:

Hey folks- new here. What an awesome group!
My Tommy machine has never had the bomber plastic. When I bought it I thought I’d replace it but I haven’t been able to find one (I’ve owned this machine for 9 years!).
Any thoughts on what to do?
Cheers!

3D print one - if you could get the loan of an original ?

Be surprised if someone isn't sitting on an old populated/semi populated playfield with one on.

#1999 18 days ago
Quoted from Ive:

3D print one - if you could get the loan of an original ?
Be surprised if someone isn't sitting on an old populated/semi populated playfield with one on.

Thanks- yes, I have 3 advanced 3D printers and a great engineering team if I could get my hands on a model or design.

Searching for files

#2000 18 days ago
Quoted from Stoaks:

Thanks- yes, I have 3 advanced 3D printers and a great engineering team if I could get my hands on a model or design.
Searching for files

If you know what type of bomber it's based on, you might be able to find a file you could use online.

There are 2,016 posts in this topic. You are on page 40 of 41.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside