(Topic ID: 142990)

The Who's TOMMY Club - Can you hear me? Members Only!


By ChadH

3 years ago



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  • 1,019 posts
  • 127 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by Rascal_H
  • Topic is favorited by 64 Pinsiders

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There are 1019 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 21.
#601 2 years ago

Can someone send a pic of where the underplayfield supports/rests are attached?

I have two, but they aren't attached and it isn't apparent where they're intended to go.

#602 2 years ago

For those of you that have upgraded the auto launch to the newer stern style, how far back did you mount it? I have an issue with mine where if I mount it where I have seen pictures online showing it, the plunger is too short to make contact with the ball. Hoping someone might have some measurements or some advice for me.

#603 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

For those of you that have upgraded the auto launch to the newer stern style, how far back did you mount it? I have an issue with mine where if I mount it where I have seen pictures online showing it, the plunger is too short to make contact with the ball. Hoping someone might have some measurements or some advice for me.

Haven't heard of this upgrade. Where to buy? Online blog/reading?

Any pics would be great. Pretty quiet thread here. Let's keep it going!

Color DMD, pinsound and speakers going in soon.

#604 2 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Haven't heard of this upgrade. Where to buy? Online blog/reading?
Any pics would be great. Pretty quiet thread here. Let's keep it going!
Color DMD, pinsound and speakers going in soon.

It's pretty common. My shooter lane was chewed all to shit and the original launcher was broken and twisted.

Here is a link:
http://www.purcellvillepinball.com/DataEastSegaSternRepairs.html

http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/deautolaunch.php

My pf looked like this:

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#605 2 years ago

I have one servo and arm assembly, that I make, ready to ship.
See my ad here on pinside.

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#606 2 years ago

Hi,

Fitting a shaker motor to TOMMY

I had a little time on my hands yesterday and upon finding a old, but working, DE shaker motor in my parts collection I decided to install it on my TOMMY. I could not find much information on how to do it so worked it out.

Firstly, the physical installation was pretty easy; four holes drilled, T-nuts fitted and shaker installed. Connected to existing controller board and fuses fitted. First pic.

Then, looking at the circuits I could see that the TIP122 transistor driving the propellers could easily accommodate driving the TIP36C used to drive the shaker. The software does not include the use of a shaker so this is why I decided to make it shake with the propellers. Second pic.

This would mean that I needed to link CN12.6 to CN12.1 on the CPU. A simple wire link would work. Third pic.

This link was ease to install if you have the tool in the fourth pic.

Works perfectly - shakes whenever the propellers are on.

Anyway, I hope that this help anyone that wants a have their TOMMY shaky.

BTW - I also make TOMMY blinder assemblies is anyone needs them. Please see: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-tommy-blinders-repro

Cheers.

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#607 2 years ago

Can someone please explain to me how to run the mirror test in diagnostics? There are three tests (mirror up, mirror down...) and I can't figure out how to move past the mirror up test to the mirror down test. I read the manual but still couldn't figure it out. Please help.

#608 2 years ago

Press the start button to move the mirror up and down.

#609 2 years ago

Thanks for responding. The start button tests the first option (mirror up), but I can't figure out how to test the second option (mirror down).

#610 2 years ago

You just hold in the start button. Once the mirror goes all the way down, it will start to go back up or vice versa.

It's all done from the same screen in diagnostics.

#611 2 years ago
Quoted from Bakerman:

Works perfectly - shakes whenever the propellers are on.

Does it shake at full speed? I think that would drive me nuts... I like the Pig2 controller, let's you customize the shaking power, and modulate the shaker to get great "throbbing" effects that a propeller driven engine provides. AND saves any circuit board "adjustments"

Interesting idea. Now that the Pig2 isn't being distributed by DK pinball, somebody needs to mass produce those things and sell them. Wonder if they're patented...

#612 2 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Does it shake at full speed?

Yep, and it seems about right for the game. It does not happen that often and I think that I will keep the mod for now. I just wanted to help anyone else that was thinking about fitting a shaker.

#613 2 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Does it shake at full speed? I think that would drive me nuts... I like the Pig2 controller, let's you customize the shaking power, and modulate the shaker to get great "throbbing" effects that a propeller driven engine provides. AND saves any circuit board "adjustments"
Interesting idea. Now that the Pig2 isn't being distributed by DK pinball, somebody needs to mass produce those things and sell them. Wonder if they're patented...

If someone has a spare pig2, to sell me I could make a new version and share the files

#614 2 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

If someone has a spare pig2, to sell me I could make a new version and share the files

Do you mean to reproduce the circuit card? Or just the software. I have one, need more.

#615 2 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Do you mean to reproduce the circuit card? Or just the software. I have one, need more.

I think the software is out there somewhere, I wanted to repro the board and make the files available online

#616 2 years ago
Quoted from tomh52722:

Thanks for responding. The start button tests the first option (mirror up), but I can't figure out how to test the second option (mirror down).

To expand on what RJW said:
The 3 lines (Mirror up, Mirror down, Mirror Target) are the 3 switches that make up the Mirror.
It simply shows you if the switches are working correctly in the correct mirror position. The up/down switches are used by the machine to know when the motor has to stop when moving the mirror, the target spots TOMMY letters.

#617 2 years ago
Quoted from MauriceSTYS:

To expand on what RJW said:
The 3 lines (Mirror up, Mirror down, Mirror Target) are the 3 switches that make up the Mirror.
It simply shows you if the switches are working correctly in the correct mirror position. The up/down switches are used by the machine to know when the motor has to stop when moving the mirror, the target spots TOMMY letters.

Thanks for explaining - I understand and appreciate it. I tried the test and it wasn't going down, but I then took it apart, cleaned it and reassembled it and it works now. The only thing is that it sometimes doesn't go down all of the way. It will go down and stop about 1/4 inch before the playfield. The motor seems to be working fine but I still need to figure out why this happens every now and then in gameplay (but not in test). Thanks again

#618 2 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

I think the software is out there somewhere, I wanted to repro the board and make the files available online

Do you have the means to repro the card? I don't know how it's done. I have one.

I have the coding for programming the features, but I don't have any software for the microcontroller etc on the board. I don't know a lot about how it works. Although programming the features, mods etc is made easy by the software onboard.

If you have the means I may be willing to lend mine, but they're hard to come by and don't want to lose it.

#619 2 years ago

Anyone know why Data East had these two screws on the bottom of the cam assembly?

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#620 2 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Do you have the means to repro the card? I don't know how it's done. I have one.
I have the coding for programming the features, but I don't have any software for the microcontroller etc on the board. I don't know a lot about how it works. Although programming the features, mods etc is made easy by the software onboard.
If you have the means I may be willing to lend mine, but they're hard to come by and don't want to lose it.

I'll try and track one down to buy, my method of reproducing involves tearing the device.

#621 2 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Anyone know why Data East had these two screws on the bottom of the cam assembly?

They are to adjust the height of where the mirror stops so its flush with the playfield.

1 week later
#622 2 years ago

What do you think of LED's in Tommy? I love original lamps but I've seen TNT do LED's and they look AMAZING.. esp. adding white led's inside Capt. Walkers Bomber and Red LED's on the wings... Less heat, less energy, last longer and look great

#623 2 years ago
Quoted from chriswhitey:

What do you think of LED's in Tommy? I love original lamps but I've seen TNT do LED's and they look AMAZING.. esp. adding white led's inside Capt. Walkers Bomber and Red LED's on the wings... Less heat, less energy, last longer and look great

I run leds in all my games. No comparison to incandescents. Game is so much brighter and you can play in the dark.

#624 2 years ago
Quoted from chriswhitey:

What do you think of LED's in Tommy? I love original lamps but I've seen TNT do LED's and they look AMAZING.. esp. adding white led's inside Capt. Walkers Bomber and Red LED's on the wings... Less heat, less energy, last longer and look great

I run leds in all my games. No comparison to incandescents. Game is so much brighter and you can play in the dark.

#625 2 years ago
Quoted from chriswhitey:

What do you think of LED's in Tommy? I love original lamps but I've seen TNT do LED's and they look AMAZING.. esp. adding white led's inside Capt. Walkers Bomber and Red LED's on the wings... Less heat, less energy, last longer and look great

Just don't color match the GI and the backbox. That always looks bad to me. If the plastics are a 'hot' color (Red, Orange, Yellow) warm white looks good. Cool colors (blue, green, etc..). Cool white looks good. Your mileage may vary.

#626 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Just don't color match the GI and the backbox

Agree for the most part. More importantly, frosted or no domes? (super brights)?? Owner specific

A few GI areas do look better when color matched, almost always rollover guides, pop bumpers... although lately I've been using clear pop caps and super brites. My fav right now on a couple games is clear pop caps and slow color changers.

Some times you can get some cool background color effects, especially in the back of the games (top of the playfield) however, the more color you add the darker the entire playfield becomes.

Backboxes can get some great color affects with highlights etc using color, but still the majority should be cool/warm white.

#627 2 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Agree for the most part. More importantly, frosted or no domes? (super brights)?? Owner specific
A few GI areas do look better when color matched, almost always rollover guides, pop bumpers... although lately I've been using clear pop caps and super brites. My fav right now on a couple games is clear pop caps and slow color changers.
Some times you can get some cool background color effects, especially in the back of the games (top of the playfield) however, the more color you add the darker the entire playfield becomes.
Backboxes can get some great color affects with highlights etc using color, but still the majority should be cool/warm white.

I tend to use single smd non frosted for GI. I do like frosted color matching for clear pop bumpers. Opaque pops (like in high speed) I use single smd cool or warm (depending on color) without a dome.

#628 2 years ago

I found a post on adjusting the open / close position of the blinders. My problem is that they shake a little during gameplay. You can see them wiggling when they are in the closed position.

Is there a way to adjust that portion of the blinders?

#629 2 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

I found a post on adjusting the open / close position of the blinders. My problem is that they shake a little during gameplay. You can see them wiggling when they are in the closed position.
Is there a way to adjust that portion of the blinders?

First check all the connections to the driver board. Unplug and plug back in the servo and harness. to clear any corrosion.

If the problem continues. Its most likely the servo is going bad. Inside the servo is a feedback pot to tell the servo's control board its position. The wiper has created a deadspot. by sitting in one spot for a long time plus the vibrations from game play tend to cause the failure of the pot. The original servo used was a $10.00 (retail) airtronics servo with a custom output shaft, having a hex drive rather than the splined shaft for R/C cars and airplanes.

You may get buy buy adjusting the "closed position" with the driver board under the apron. Have the blinders slightly more exposed won't hurt your game play. And the wiper in the feedback pot wont be sitting on a dead spot cause it to hunt for position. That hunting is the Jitters you see.

1 month later
#630 2 years ago

Still working on my Tommy, getting everything polished up

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#631 2 years ago

I´ve finally finished my Engine Mod for TOMMY which adds lighting to the engines of the airplane. All it needs to install is a screw driver and connecting a few cables. The idea is to either connect it to GI underneath the playfield with the alligator clips or to the Airplane lamp (#56) via the designated cable shoes. The kit comes fully assembled and should take no more than 15 minutes to install.
I started with red LEDs but I can of course also do other colors like yellow, warm white, amber you name it....
The kit costs 25 USD shipped (Note: the cockpit LED is not part of the kit!!!).

Here are a few pictures:

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1 week later
#632 2 years ago

Slowly but surely she's comin together.

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#633 2 years ago

I was watching a league game last night and noticed the image from the Gigi backglass is in one of the animations. Was the pinball machine Gigi in the movie? Anyone know the story behind Gigi making an appearance?

1 week later
#634 2 years ago

Almost done. Still have to clean the right ramp, rebuild the two lower flippers, and finish a few light mods.

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#635 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Almost done. Still have to clean the right ramp, rebuild the two lower flippers, and finish a few light mods.

Where did you get the yellow posts? The fat ones on the sling corner posts.

Ps. Looking good!

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#636 2 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Where did you get the yellow posts? The fat ones on the sling corner posts.
Ps. Looking good!

They are from titan. Using the yellow half posts and white rings (except the slings, I had some transparent ones.)

Thank you! Hoping to finish tonight and have it playing. Leaving one mod for a later time.

#637 2 years ago

Finally finished! It's late, so I will get to play and adjust tomorrow. But the game is fixed and shopped! (Will complete led work at a later date.)

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1 week later
#638 2 years ago

Anyone have a spare subway ramp for sale?

#639 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Finally finished! It's late, so I will get to play and adjust tomorrow. But the game is fixed and shopped! (Will complete led work at a later date.)

Nicely done... Tommy is such a great game!

#640 2 years ago

I'm looking for the two pieces circled in red if anyone has them.

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#641 2 years ago

Anyone know how I should position this plastic guard? TIA!

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#642 2 years ago

On mine, the only plastic guard in that area is behind the right spinner,mounted on a spacer type post,next to ramp. Hope this helps, love my Tommy.

#643 2 years ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

On mine, the only plastic guard in that area is behind the right spinner,mounted on a spacer type post,next to ramp. Hope this helps, love my Tommy.

If its not too much trouble, could you post a pic please?

Thanks!!!

#644 2 years ago
Quoted from vicrattlehead:

If its not too much trouble, could you post a pic please?
Thanks!!!

I made this post a while back with pictures showing the original factory positioning of all clear plastic guards on my Tommy. Hope this helps!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-whos-tommy-club-can-you-hear-me-members-only/page/6#post-3052416

#645 2 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Nicely done... Tommy is such a great game!

Thanks Kerry! I haven't completed doing LEDs in the game yet, but did use a few strips in the backboard, and mounted a strip under the plane on the bracket as well. For some reason it was off in the pic. It plays very fast, I don't have the notorious spinner killing the ball issue, and I have yet to get onto the high score list

#646 2 years ago

tTwo questions for people in the know. How do you like the pin sound board in this game (with real WHO music) and does anyone one know who made the alternative cabinet artwork, The one with the Union Jack. I can't find pictures or video of it, i know Ive seen it before. The sound of the digitized sound just ruins the game play for me. Thanks Todd Scott

#647 2 years ago

The original sound of this game always ruined it for me. Believe me, the Pinsound pushed this game over the top. See Me Feel Me is after losing balls, I'm Free is 6 ball multi ball,for example, all The Who. Original speakers sound good. They mix original sounds also with The Who. Try you tube , pinsound, to hear it.

#648 2 years ago
Quoted from Number41:

I made this post a while back with pictures showing the original factory positioning of all clear plastic guards on my Tommy. Hope this helps!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-whos-tommy-club-can-you-hear-me-members-only/page/6#post-3052416

Thank you!

#649 1 year ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

I don't have the notorious spinner killing the ball issue,

I do! Is there some reading here somewhere about this? Right spinner for me. Almost impossible to make the right ramp from that shot.

Thanks in advance!

#650 1 year ago

I Just installed a stainless steel ball from Amazon. Because its a first position reflection the text and me are both clear. Made a video for my Channel.

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