(Topic ID: 142990)

The Who's TOMMY Club - Can you hear me? Members Only!


By ChadH

4 years ago



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  • 1,155 posts
  • 133 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by zahner
  • Topic is favorited by 62 Pinsiders

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There are 1155 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 24.
#501 2 years ago

Has anyone noticed the small predrilled holes above their outlane posts? They look like flipper alignment holes. I think these can be used to move your outlanes up. I think I'm going to drill them and move up my posts.

#502 2 years ago

Just joined!!!!

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#503 2 years ago
Quoted from ejacques:

Just joined!!!!

Welcome....

#504 2 years ago

I'm looking for a beautiful example of a Tommy. If anyone has a lead on one, please pm me!
Thanks!

#505 2 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Has anyone noticed the small predrilled holes above their outlane posts? They look like flipper alignment holes. I think these can be used to move your outlanes up. I think I'm going to drill them and move up my posts.

I did exactly that. But as my skills improved and I started going to more and more competitions, I moved them back to the original spot so the game would play brutal like it is supposed to. I even moved the upper posts as high as they will go!

#506 2 years ago

Anyone know where you can get the British flag cabinet decals? Saw a restoration done with these on youtube. Looks sick.

#507 2 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Anyone know where you can get the British flag cabinet decals? Saw a restoration done with these on youtube. Looks sick.

Those were a one off job. Try http://www.retrorefurbs.com/ ....they might be able to do something similar

#508 2 years ago

Is there any interest in a plug'n'play airplane engine light mod? I built one for myself that attaches directly to the front of each airplane engine. All you have to do is remove one screw that holds the motor, attach the board and put the screw back in. Repeat for the other engine and connect it - either to GI or to the controlled airplane lamp. The mod would come with everything assembled and all connectors there, so no soldering or permanent modification necessary. Installs in 5 minutes.

Here´s a picture with red LEDs, but all other colors are possible, too.

P1090514 (resized).JPG

Board looks like this:

P1090517 (resized).JPG

I´m also open for suggestions what could be done better.

#509 2 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Anyone know where you can get the British flag cabinet decals? Saw a restoration done with these on youtube. Looks sick.

Quoted from Ive:

Those were a one off job. Try http://www.retrorefurbs.com/ ....they might be able to do something similar

Yes, we have these.

Pete
Retro Refurbs

1 week later
#510 2 years ago

Look what I've done!! The constant wear on the silverball target always irked me so I found a way of putting a real ball in its place. Only problem is due to the extra weight the target moves back and forth after a hit and activates the switch multiple times, sometimes on a very solid hit it doesn't register at all. Anybody know a way to resolve this?

Silverball Target IMG_4050 (resized).JPG

#511 2 years ago

Get a new silverball target? Seriously, the blade switch on the target was never designed for such a heavy ball in place of the plastic piece. You'd be better off just putting a new silverball target back in place and replace it when it gets worn if it bugs you.

Quoted from Yamisetatiggler:

Look what I've done!! The constant wear on the silverball target always irked me so I found a way of putting
a real ball in its place. Only problem is due to the extra weight the target moves back and forth after a hit and activates the switch multiple times, sometimes on a very solid hit it doesn't register at all. Anybody know a way to resolve this?

#512 2 years ago

After collecting and making parts I got my Tommy's blinders completed and working.

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#513 2 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Get a new silverball target? Seriously, the blade switch on the target was never designed for such a heavy ball in place of the plastic piece. You'd be better off just putting a new silverball target back in place and replace it when it gets worn if it bugs you.

The problem is that the silverball targets are unobtanium. I've only seen a couple of NOS ones for sale in the last 4 years. None of the vendors have them.

#514 2 years ago

Has anyone ever experienced a tilt error on multiball? I was rocking it, blinders out after both jackpot shots. Hammering away on flippers and the game tilted out and shut down. The blinders opened and closed multiple times during the tilt phase. Seemed to last longer than normal and I got no danger warning. It was almost like the machine glitched out. Sucks because I was having a hell of a game. I didn't physically tilt.

#515 2 years ago

I have had my Tommy tilt during multi ball too.
I but I did not have my blinders installed and working at that time.
But in thee games defense I have been known to tilt out just by looking at the game.

#516 2 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Has anyone ever experienced a tilt error on multiball? I was rocking it, blinders out after both jackpot shots. Hammering away on flippers and the game tilted out and shut down. The blinders opened and closed multiple times during the tilt phase. Seemed to last longer than normal and I got no danger warning. It was almost like the machine glitched out. Sucks because I was having a hell of a game. I didn't physically tilt.

Was it a slam tilt? Or a regular tilt?

There is no warning with a slam tilt... this is triggered by the switch in the door. When it happens, the display shows SLAM TILT and the ball ends immediately.

The normal tilt is the one that is controlled by the plumb bob tilt mechanism on the left side inner wall. This one is the one that will give you DANGER warnings, and then will display TILT when you've hit it too many times.

#517 2 years ago

I couldn't say what happened, but it is normal for the blinders to open/close when you tilt on Tommy.

#518 2 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Was it a slam tilt? Or a regular tilt?
There is no warning with a slam tilt... this is triggered by the switch in the door. When it happens, the display shows SLAM TILT and the ball ends immediately.
The normal tilt is the one that is controlled by the plumb bob tilt mechanism on the left side inner wall. This one is the one that will give you DANGER warnings, and then will display TILT when you've hit it too many times.

Wasn't a slam tilt. You really have to beat the shit out of a machine for that to happen. I have never had that happen. Maybe I tilted but I was just hitting the flipper buttons. My assumption was with so much going on the machine couldn't keep up and shut down.

#519 2 years ago

Have you moved the manual, or something inside, that may have moved your tilt bob closer to the side/edge?

#520 2 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

My assumption was with so much going on the machine couldn't keep up and shut down.

This is highly unlikely, borderline impossible.

#521 2 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Has anyone ever experienced a tilt error on multiball? I was rocking it, blinders out after both jackpot shots. Hammering away on flippers and the game tilted out and shut down. The blinders opened and closed multiple times during the tilt phase. Seemed to last longer than normal and I got no danger warning. It was almost like the machine glitched out. Sucks because I was having a hell of a game. I didn't physically tilt.

Sounds like a phantom slam tilt. This happens when the switch matrix gets tricked into thinking the slam tilt switch is closed.

I've trouble shot on Williams machines and fixed it. But not on data east.

Check out phantom slam tilts in search.

such as: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wpc-95-gameplay-issues

Pretty sure there's some pinwiki about phantom closures as well.

See if this helps! Check every diode and connection. It HAS to be a combination of 4 switches closing at same time... and the slam tilt is one of them. Get out the matrix and and start looking at possible combinations. It's a pain in the butt... but solves a MAJOR problem.

If it only happens in multiball... I'd start with trough switches since those are normally closed during non-multiball game play.

#522 2 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

Is there any interest in a plug'n'play

I like the Mod TNT did with the airplane lights... it's on youtube.

#523 2 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Sounds like a phantom slam tilt. This happens when the switch matrix gets tricked into thinking the slam tilt switch is closed.
I've trouble shot on Williams machines and fixed it. But not on data east.
Check out phantom slam tilts in search.
such as: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wpc-95-gameplay-issues
Pretty sure there's some pinwiki about phantom closures as well.
See if this helps! Check every diode and connection. It HAS to be a combination of 4 switches closing at same time... and the slam tilt is one of them. Get out the matrix and and start looking at possible combinations. It's a pain in the butt... but solves a MAJOR problem.
If it only happens in multiball... I'd start with trough switches since those are normally closed during non-multiball game play.

It only happened once. Let's see if it happens again.

#524 2 years ago

I added a little something to my propeller mod.

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#525 2 years ago

Finally got my knocker working, with Clay Harrrel's help. But it has more of a thud than a thwack like my EM games. I guess it is striking a short wood rail mounted to the floor is tead of the side of the cabinet. I bought a 5" bell off ebay hoping it will produce the "gong" that Golden Arrow makes on a 10K score.

bell (resized).jpg

1 week later
#526 2 years ago

Just joined the Tommy Club yesterday, love the game and the flow. I need to fix the blinder motor, because for whatever reason the one that it came with from Marco works in reverse! I found the thread that shows how to fix it, but that's crazy that it was sold this way!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tommy-blinder-servo-from-marco#post-2592948

#527 2 years ago

I make and sell a replacement servo/arm assembly. Check my ad has been relisted on Pinside. I even have one in my own game.

Bob E

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servo (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#528 2 years ago

New to the club, and I'm looking for two things to finish up my Tommy project.

I could definitely use a number of plastics, if not a full set. My Union Jack is destroyed, and I have a number of other warped/broken plastics that could be swapped out. I've gotten some PMs, but looking to network as much as possible to finish this bad boy up. I plan on adding Pinbits to avoid future breaks.

I'm also looking for someone to burn me the upgraded rom for the game. I would gladly pay whatever's fair for both.

I'll post before and after pics once everything is done. It's coming along nicely.

#529 2 years ago
Quoted from BeaglePuss:

I'm also looking for someone to burn me the upgraded rom for the game.

What I did was just ask a pinball store (pinball.center in my case) if they could burn a rom I'd send them by email. They did it for the the same price as a normal v4.00 set, so I think it's worth asking.

#530 2 years ago

Contact John Wart at this page. I am sure he would burn the roms you need.
http://thatpinballplace.com/eproms/index.htm

Quoted from BeaglePuss:

New to the club, and I'm looking for two things to finish up my Tommy project.
I could definitely use a number of plastics, if not a full set. My Union Jack is destroyed, and I have a number of other warped/broken plastics that could be swapped out. I've gotten some PMs, but looking to network as much as possible to finish this bad boy up. I plan on adding Pinbits to avoid future breaks.
I'm also looking for someone to burn me the upgraded rom for the game. I would gladly pay whatever's fair for both.
I'll post before and after pics once everything is done. It's coming along nicely.

#531 2 years ago
Quoted from BeaglePuss:

New to the club, and I'm looking for two things to finish up my Tommy project.
I could definitely use a number of plastics, if not a full set. My Union Jack is destroyed, and I have a number of other warped/broken plastics that could be swapped out. I've gotten some PMs, but looking to network as much as possible to finish this bad boy up. I plan on adding Pinbits to avoid future breaks.
I'm also looking for someone to burn me the upgraded rom for the game. I would gladly pay whatever's fair for both.
I'll post before and after pics once everything is done. It's coming along nicely.

Let me know which plastics you still need. I think I have a bunch of used ones in a drawer somewhere which are hopefully in better shape than yours.

#532 2 years ago

Recommend the Rom you upgrade be Chads new code. He rocked it

#533 2 years ago
Quoted from MAJRob:

Recommend the Rom you upgrade be Chads new code. He rocked it

That's exactly what I had planned!

Thanks for all the tips gentlemen. A fine Pinsider has burnt the roms for me, and another local Pinsider has the majority of the plastics I need. I think I'm in good shape at this point. Pinbits protectors will be in shortly, and then I'm just waiting on the Cliffy set. Hoping to be done within the next few weeks or so.

#534 2 years ago

Hey guys new memberof the Tommy club. My all time favorite band combined with a well thought out game that's a lot of fun to play. What's not to like. I have a question posted in the general forum but thought this may give me some more direct answers. I bought new legs for my game (4 x 28.5" legs as it states in the manual). I can't get my playfield to pitch steeper than 5.6 degrees. So my question is, do you guys have longer legs on the back of your games? My next move is to buy two 30.5" legs for the back to get the pitch up, but was ineterested to see how everyone's games are set up in here.

#535 2 years ago
Quoted from Chisox:

Hey guys new memberof the Tommy club. My all time favorite band combined with a well thought out game that's a lot of fun to play. What's not to like. I have a question posted in the general forum but thought this may give me some more direct answers. I bought new legs for my game (4 x 28.5" legs as it states in the manual). I can't get my playfield to pitch steeper than 5.6 degrees. So my question is, do you guys have longer legs on the back of your games? My next move is to buy two 30.5" legs for the back to get the pitch up, but was ineterested to see how everyone's games are set up in here.

My game has 4 x 28.5" legs as you mentioned (that's factory default). The leg levelers have 3" shafts (with bolts) with the front legs set as low as they can go and the back legs almost as high as they can go (maybe less than a 1/2" of shaft to spare). This gets the angle to 6.5 degrees. Hope that helps!

#536 2 years ago
Quoted from Number41:

My game has 4 x 28.5" legs as you mentioned - that's how it came from the factory as well. The leg levelers have 3" shafts (with bolts) with the front legs set low as they can go and the back legs almost as high as they can go (maybe less than a 1/2" of shaft to spare). This gets the angle to 6.5 degrees. Hope that helps!

Hmmm... that's how I have it set up. 3" levelers all the way down in the front, all the way up in the back. Thanks for checking.

#537 2 years ago

My Tommy has longer legs on the back and I'm 99% sure that's how it came from the factory.

#538 2 years ago

I also have two different size legs on my game and have seen it on other Data East games too.

#539 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

My Tommy has longer legs on the back and I'm 99% sure that's how it came from the factory.

I took this pic last year when I put my Tommy in a Papa Circuit tourney. You can't see the other end of the legs, but they were flush with each other.

20160609_210628 (resized).jpg

#540 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

My Tommy has longer legs on the back and I'm 99% sure that's how it came from the factory.

I'm in your 1% then! My machine was a bit of a "time capsule" where it was single-owner HUO and everything on it was still factory when I bought it from the original owner (original factory black rubber, original GE light bulbs, backbox door and speaker panel still screwed shut, factory zip-tied batteries (ugh), cardboard lining still inside the coin door). Anyway, nothing was ever changed on it by the previous owner (he didn't know how haha) and it has 4 x 28.5" black legs like the manual lists. Maybe there was variation in some? Who knows...

#541 2 years ago

Thanks for the info guys. Looks like Marco sells single legs so I'll grab some longer ones for the back. Just really interesting that there are so many out there (Data East machines in general) with the same sized legs all around.

#542 2 years ago

Legs on my Tommy are black DE ones, all 28 1/2. No problem with pitch.

I have never been aware of 90s DE games coming with different length legs

#543 2 years ago

I recall playing a Tommy at PAPA several years ago. The front castors were screwed all the way in, the rear castors were screwed all the way out and it was floaty as hell. It was like they could not get a decent pitch on it with the legs maxed out. I wonder if there were variations in the cabinet's leg bolt locations?

#544 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I recall playing a Tommy at PAPA several years ago. The front castors were screwed all the way in, the rear castors were screwed all the way out and it was floaty as hell. It was like they could not get a decent pitch on it with the legs maxed out. I wonder if there were variations in the cabinet's leg bolt locations?

I'm starting to think this is the case. I put the original legs back on that came with my game and with the back legs dimed, it was still barely 5.7 degrees. These legs were ratty too, so I'd imagine they'd been on there for a while. Surprised this hasn't been addressed before.

#545 2 years ago

I own both Tommy & GnR's. Tommy's legs are the standard length (i believe 28 1/2") and GnR's are about 2" longer, all the way around. I don't have exact measurements, as I'm out of town and away from my game room.

Out of 30 pins... GnR's are the only 4 longer legs I have on my games

#546 2 years ago

Maybe this will help unravel the mystery - on my game the front lower bolt holes are roughly 3" up from the bottom of the cabinet and the back lower bolt holes are roughly 1" up from the bottom, so the hole height is offset to fit all equal 28.5" length legs.

#547 2 years ago
Quoted from Number41:

Maybe this will help unravel the mystery - on my game the front lower bolt holes are roughly 3" up from the bottom of the cabinet and the back lower bolt holes are roughly 1" up from the bottom, so the hole height is offset to fit all equal 28.5" length legs.

You may hold the keys to the kingdom. Mine are more like 3" and 1.5" which would make the rear sit a bit lower than yours. I would be willing to bet .5" would give you (me) almost one degree of tilt. I think we can file this mystery in the solved folder for now. Thanks to all contributors and sorry for gumming up the thread. It really is a fantastic game (color DMD is a great add) and I love the gameplay, I just get hung up on these things sometimes. Now .....about that 5.0 code....

2 weeks later
#548 2 years ago

Hello. I have owned his game for a few months and finally getting it back together. Never played Tommy. I had the side rails powdercoated and also he acid queen scoop. It was nasty. I eventually will be asking binder questions. But I'm not close to there yet. I have changed to star posts by the slings. Like the prototype had and added cliffys to clean it up. I'm going to make a new wood shooter lane divider out of hard wood this weekend. Paint rather than covered.

The acid queen scoop looks like it takes a beating. What are the thoughts about putting a blue rubber pad on the back of it. Like used in Williams habit trail ends.
Thanks
FortyTwo

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#549 2 years ago

Could someone post a pic of the holiday camp target from underneath the playfield? I've got a couple wires disconnected.

#550 2 years ago

Did this help?

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H camp 010 (resized).JPG

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H camp 013 (resized).JPG

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