(Topic ID: 142990)

The Who's TOMMY Club - Can you hear me? Members Only!


By ChadH

4 years ago



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  • 1,153 posts
  • 133 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by Ive
  • Topic is favorited by 63 Pinsiders

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There are 1153 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 24.
#451 3 years ago

Check the coil it may be the problem and the solder joint

#452 3 years ago

or its just the switch registering that there is a ball in the trough

#453 3 years ago

Hi every one!

I just got a Tommy yesterday. It's a great pin but a bit easy... Took me less then a day to get the wizard mode and the table's #1 score. Any ideas on how to make this a more challenging game?
I'm in the process of making these adjustments-
1) I removed the adjustable outlane posts from both sides
2) I am ordering 4 TOTAN yellow post covers to surround the left scoop, mode start hole, and the post left of the silverball target (along the guide for the hidden kickout area)
3) Setting the game software to 'hard' mode

Any other suggestions? Anything else to remove? disable? prevent mode stacking? etc? Should I update the code to the unofficial V.5.0 rom?

#454 3 years ago
Quoted from Linolium:

I just got a Tommy yesterday. It's a great pin but a bit easy... Took me less then a day to get the wizard mode and the table's #1 score. Any ideas on how to make this a more challenging game?

You're either a REALLY good player, or your game is somehow setup easy. I've owned the game for years, and only been to the wizard mode a handful of times.

#455 3 years ago
Quoted from Linolium:

Hi every one!
I just got a Tommy yesterday. It's a great pin but a bit easy... Took me less then a day to get the wizard mode and the table's #1 score. Any ideas on how to make this a more challenging game?
I'm in the process of making these adjustments-
1) I removed the adjustable outlane posts from both sides
2) I am ordering 4 TOTAN yellow post covers to surround the left scoop, mode start hole, and the post left of the silverball target (along the guide for the hidden kickout area)
3) Setting the game software to 'hard' mode
Any other suggestions? Anything else to remove? disable? prevent mode stacking? etc? Should I update the code to the unofficial V.5.0 rom?

You must be an awesome player - this game keeps kicking my butt like no other game I´ve ever played......
Maybe your slings aren´t very sensitive. Mine are and they are masters at firing the ball directly into the outlanes. That´s actually the way most of my balls end. Very few leave between the flippers.

#456 3 years ago
Quoted from Linolium:

Hi every one!
I just got a Tommy yesterday. It's a great pin but a bit easy... Took me less then a day to get the wizard mode and the table's #1 score. Any ideas on how to make this a more challenging game?
I'm in the process of making these adjustments-
1) I removed the adjustable outlane posts from both sides
2) I am ordering 4 TOTAN yellow post covers to surround the left scoop, mode start hole, and the post left of the silverball target (along the guide for the hidden kickout area)
3) Setting the game software to 'hard' mode
Any other suggestions? Anything else to remove? disable? prevent mode stacking? etc? Should I update the code to the unofficial V.5.0 rom?

When you start a game holkd in the "extra ball" button under the start button. That will extend the blinders thru the whole game.

#457 3 years ago
Quoted from Linolium:

Should I update the code to the unofficial V.5.0 rom?

V.5.00 definitely gives you more options to make the game harder. For starters, the "gimmie multiball" from the auto advancing of the TOMMY letters is now fully customizable. Before, there was no control over this function.

#458 3 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

Maybe your slings aren´t very sensitive. Mine are and they are masters at firing the ball directly into the outlanes. That´s actually the way most of my balls end. Very few leave between the flippers.

My slings are very strong and sensitive. I just figured out quickly how to combat their back&fourth with nudging. Give the table a good nudge into the sling when it hits the ball (nudge the right side for the right sling, left side for the left sling) to send the ball into the 3 spot targets on the left/right side of the game, then nudge up when it hits the rubbers under the target banks or on the upper posts in the slingshot triangles.

Quoted from gweempose:

You're either a REALLY good player, or your game is somehow setup easy. I've owned the game for years, and only been to the wizard mode a handful of times.

Meh, ~B-ish player in local leagues. The shots are just very smooth and in the flipper's sweat spots which makes hitting things fairly easy.

Quoted from bob_e:

When you start a game holkd in the "extra ball" button under the start button. That will extend the blinders thru the whole game.

Ooh! I'll try that

Quoted from ChadH:

V.5.00 definitely gives you more options to make the game harder. For starters, the "gimmie multiball" from the auto advancing of the TOMMY letters is now fully customizable. Before, there was no control over this function.

I noticed that. Not sure if the score balance difference would mess up my strategies when playing Tommy elsewhere in competition though. How official/sanctioned are these balances?

I also want to change extra balls to score (or nothing) if possible. I don't think I saw an option for that in the original code?

#459 3 years ago
Quoted from Linolium:

I also want to change extra balls to score (or nothing) if possible. I don't think I saw an option for that in the original code?

If I recall correctly, set Adjustment 4 (Game Awards) to None. Also set Adjustment 6 (Limit Extra Ball) to 0.

Game will now give you points instead of Extra Ball.

#460 3 years ago
Quoted from Linolium:

Hi every one!
I just got a Tommy yesterday. It's a great pin but a bit easy... Took me less then a day to get the wizard mode and the table's #1 score. Any ideas on how to make this a more challenging game?
I'm in the process of making these adjustments-
1) I removed the adjustable outlane posts from both sides
2) I am ordering 4 TOTAN yellow post covers to surround the left scoop, mode start hole, and the post left of the silverball target (along the guide for the hidden kickout area)
3) Setting the game software to 'hard' mode
Any other suggestions? Anything else to remove? disable? prevent mode stacking? etc? Should I update the code to the unofficial V.5.0 rom?

Wow. Seriously - took me quite some time before I saw Pinball Wizard for first time. I get it a lot more often now - but I know the feel of this machine so well after owning it for 13 years - but I still have to REALLY be trying.

I wonder if you have the game too shallow maybe ?

Out of interest were you 'playing' the modes or just hammering through mode start/relight/mode start ?? Remember the enjoyment of pinball like life is not about the final destination but the journey ....

I really encourage upgrading to Chads 5.0 code. Makes many of the modes much more worthwhile and rewarding to play.

#461 3 years ago

First time I ever heard Tommy called easy. It's usually a pretty brutal game.

#462 3 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

If I recall correctly, set Adjustment 4 (Game Awards) to None. Also set Adjustment 6 (Limit Extra Ball) to 0.
Game will now give you points instead of Extra Ball.

Thanks, I did that and it helps

Quoted from Ive:

Out of interest were you 'playing' the modes or just hammering through mode start/relight/mode start ?? Remember the enjoyment of pinball like life is not about the final destination but the journey ....

I play the modes worth playing, stack the modes worth stacking. The non-multiball modes are all very quick and simple (not that that's a bad thing!), but too simple for me... shoot ramp... all targets worth X points or bumpers lit (i.e. shoot spinner continuously which also lights the next mode), shoot 3 shots, shoot 1 shot, etc. Starting the modes is also really easy- left orbit, live catch, back hand popper, repeat. The main mirror multiball mode is awesome though.

Oh I can still trap and make accurate shots with the blinder on during the game...

I think the problem is the shots are much wider than I'm used to which makes the table easy for me to shoot. The game I had before this was Kiss Pro- those shots are very tight compared to Tommy. So the wide shots+simple rule tasks make it seem easy? :: shrug ::
I've played Tommy a bunch at a buddies house a year ago and it seemed more difficult. Maybe the Kiss' tight shots improved my aim enough to kill some challenge from a set of pins.

Regardless it is a great game and I know my POV is not the norm.

Any other suggestions to tighten up shots and difficulty please let me know! I'd like the game to stay a little while but at this rate it may not

#463 3 years ago

I switched mine from normal rubbers to Titan rings and post rubbers and my impression is, that the scoops are much harder to hit now.
The post rubbers are thicker and somewhat "stickier" (sorry for my bad English) than the classic black rubbers. So if you shoot the mode scoop and the ball touches one post rubber - even slightly - it doesn't slide in but almost always bounces back out. This usually commences in a nice slingshot battle and one of them usually decides that this was enough for today and sends the ball straight into the outlane.

#464 3 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

I switched mine from normal rubbers to Titan rings and post rubbers and my impression is, that the scoops are much harder to hit now. The post rubbers are thicker and somewhat "stickier" (sorry for my bad English) than the classic black rubbers. So if you shoot the mode scoop and the ball touches one post rubber - even slightly - it doesn't slide in but almost always bounces back out.

Have you tried Cliffy posts? I think you will be much happier with them in this game. They are way less "tacky" than the Titan ones.

#465 3 years ago

Sorry for asking this question again but for those that have installed the pin sound in their tommy. Is there still a memory limitation when adding songs or length?

I don't necessarily want to remove any of the tommy stuff but think it would be cool to throw a couple of the who standards in as a surprise, say baba O reilly.

Anyone think this could be done without messing the game up?

3 weeks later
#466 3 years ago

Today, after 4 years of flawless operation, my blinders began "jittering" in the open position. Not sure if the problem is at the servo, the motor or on the CPU board. They activate and retract at the right times and it tests OK.
Also I have noticed when it's retracted there is a noise coming from the motor as if its activated. Not sure if that's normal but I don't recall hearing noise from that in its resting state.
Hope someone can help.
Video can be seen

#467 3 years ago

My guess would be the servo motor itself. There are gears inside the motor and it's possible one is cracked or is missing teeth.

#468 3 years ago

Is there any way to check that the servo board is outputting the correct voltages to the motor?

#469 3 years ago
Quoted from Yamisetatiggler:

Today, after 4 years of flawless operation, my blinders began "jittering" in the open position. Not sure if the problem is at the servo, the motor or on the CPU board. They activate and retract at the right times and it tests OK.
Also I have noticed when it's retracted there is a noise coming from the motor as if its activated. Not sure if that's normal but I don't recall hearing noise from that in its resting state.
Hope someone can help.
Video can be seen » YouTube video

The "jittering" is a typical R/C servo problem. The feedback pot/wiper inside the servo is going bad. 20 years of building and flying R/C taught me this. I make and sell a replacement servo and arm assembly. Looking at the video, your servo has been replaced once. Hitec in place of the Airtronics. (the original arm with hex-drive pressed over the spline shaft of the Hitec).

First picture is the original Airtronics servo. Second is what I make and sell.

tommy (resized).jpg

Arm Tommy 001 (resized).JPG

#470 3 years ago

The second Issue I see is that the rubber Isolation mounts for the servo are missing. All the playfield vibrations are directly transmitted to the servo. This will cause the electronics inside the servo to fail. Do NOT attempt to turn the servo while it is under power because you could break the gear train inside

1 week later
#471 3 years ago

Does anybody know the diameter of the silver ball topper?

#472 3 years ago
Quoted from bob_e:

Does anybody know the diameter of the silver ball topper?

Believe 8 1/2 inch is correct

#473 3 years ago

I always assumed the silver ball topper that came with mine was original. Can anyone confirm if the stock ball has threads at the base?

That one was 7-1/2".

Because it was cracked, I replaced it with a 8-1/2" mirror gazing ball and think the new size looks much better.

Tommy Topper (resized).jpg

#474 3 years ago
Quoted from southbound:

I always assumed the silver ball topper that came with mine was original. Can anyone confirm if the stock ball has threads at the base?
That one was 7-1/2".
Because it was cracked, I replaced it with a 8-1/2" mirror gazing ball and think the new size looks much better.

Yes, this is the original ball topper and it is 7.5" in diameter (just measured mine to double check)!

1 week later
#475 3 years ago

I replaced mine with a 10" polished stainless steel gazing ball and its a huge improvement to me. The scale is better and the ball is unbreakable

#476 3 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

First time I ever heard Tommy called easy. It's usually a pretty brutal game.

Yeah, I've never heard that either. It's the game I recommend good players play when they come to my house because it's so challenging and you rarely see them.

#477 3 years ago

Replay Score changes, Why ??
Most of the time the DMD displays replay at 300,000 a few time it has been 350,000 and 400,000. Today it came up with 320,000.

#478 3 years ago
Quoted from bob_e:

Replay Score changes, Why ??
Most of the time the DMD displays replay at 300,000 a few time it has been 350,000 and 400,000. Today it came up with 320,000.

By default it automatically adjusts replay score by 50 million increments based on recent high scores (there's a setting for it in the adjustments menu, I believe). You may have accidentally set the 320 million by opening the coin door while the replay score is on the DMD - this puts it into a "quick adjust" mode for the replay score and that goes by different increments (20 million in this case). If you press buttons while in this mode it adjusts the replay value.

#479 3 years ago
Quoted from Number41:

Yes, this is the original ball topper and it is 7.5" in diameter (just measured mine to double check)!

I made one for my Tommy. 8" stainless steel ball from Amazon & the 5" diameter 3/4" thick wood base at JoAnns.
There was a hole in the ball about .19 diameter which I tapped M5.
7/32 Drilled thru the base for a M5 screw, and a 1" diamerter end mill put a spot face in the base 1/16 deep to cradle the ball.
A bracket will be installed inside the cabinet to hold it in place.

tommy 001 (resized).JPG

tommy 002 (resized).JPG

tommy 005 (resized).JPG

#480 3 years ago

Does anyone know of an alternate translite for Tommy?

#481 3 years ago
Quoted from gjm:

Does anyone know of an alternate translite for Tommy?

The only official "alternate" is the prototype translite, which can be sort of hard to come by (got mine on eBay a while back).

IMG_1468 (resized).JPG

#482 3 years ago

Been gone about a month and got home and my daughter wanted to play me in some pinball. Her choice/favorite, Tommy! I know I am preaching to the choir here but this game is just killer-especially with the color dmd

#483 3 years ago
Quoted from Number41:

The only official "alternate" is the prototype translite, which can be sort of hard to come by (got mine on eBay a while back).

If someone reproduced those, I would actually buy one. Most alternates never make use of the lights behind them properly, but the protoS do. Mind sharing what that set you back?

#484 3 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

If someone reproduced those, I would actually buy one. Most alternates never make use of the lights behind them properly, but the protoS do. Mind sharing what that set you back?

I too have the Proto translite, looks much better imo.

I got it from Mike Pacek , via ebay, about 8 or 9 years ago. Probably paid around $100 back then ..... ??? ... I really cant remember

2 weeks later
#485 3 years ago

COLORDMD ROM UPDATE!

The Tommy 3.2 color ROM update has been posted to our SUPPORT page and is now available for immediate download. The update adds support for Chad Hendrickson's unofficial 5.0 game code release that adds new features for Tommy as well as additional animation sequences. The new color ROM still continues to support the official 4.0 game release.

The new ROM is available for both LCD and LED displays.

Thanks very much to Frank Gigliotti for all the hard work to make this available for all to enjoy!

http://www.colordmd.com/support_firmware.html

Tommy_Hand (resized).PNG

2 weeks later
#486 3 years ago

I will be making more servo/arm assemblies to sell. I expect to have them done in 4 weeks. I need to get open machine time at work and get busy after hours. If you need one send me a private message and I will get a pre-order list going. NO DEPOSIT required.

Arm Tommy 001 (resized).JPG

#487 3 years ago

I won a Tommy on ebay tonight. Now I just have to arrange shipping. Sounds like the seller won't offer much assistance. I'm hoping sti will lower the back box and wrap it a bit?

Also, is there an update rom that evens out the scoring, etc?

#488 3 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I won a Tommy on ebay tonight. Now I just have to arrange shipping. Sounds like the seller won't offer much assistance. I'm hoping sti will lower the back box and wrap it a bit?
Also, is there an update rom that evens out the scoring, etc?

http://www.pinballcode.com/tommy5

Chad's Code rewrite does awesome job of balancing out scoring - no longer does Multiball dominate, modes and bonus scoring can be very lucrative now

1 week later
#489 3 years ago

Well I got my game today and definitely not what I expected. It has been pretty abused. Cabinet and back box are rough, really rough. Bondo, bad touch ups everywhere, chunks of wood missing, water damage, lots of rust under playfield. Blinder setup and board completely missing. Dmd out gassing really bad. It's a reimport. Playfield is decent other than two flipper bracket screws that popped through. Ugh. It plays fine other than half the time when the ball drains it doesn't register. It goes into ball search mode but still doesn't pop a ball out. I'm getting familiar with the data east menu screen. I ran a switch edge test and I can get all the switches in trough to register. Then none work. Then they all work. Strange. What could cause this?

#490 3 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Well I got my game today and definitely not what I expected.

Start buy getting the manual for your Tommy, Reprints start at $20.00 on E-bay, originals are listed too.

I would guess dirty pins on the connectors, cold solder joint or a 1/2 broken wire.

tommy (resized).jpg

#491 3 years ago

Who would be interested in a reproduction base plate for the blinders in their Tommy pin?

Please send me a PM if you are interested. I am not taking orders at this time. Just wondering if there is anyone interested.

I plan on making one prototype to test in my personal game and get an idea how much it cost me in time and materials. I have access to the machinery in the tool shop where I work. The base will be solid steel not a stamping, the shaft will be steel too pressed into the base. I have been making a replacement servo and arm assembly and selling them here on Pinside. Which came about when I was selling a Tommy for a friend and it needed the servo and driver board.

Now that I have my own Tommy I have the actual part to measure and replicate. My game is missing: the blinders, servo/arm, & driver board. I have ordered a set of 3D printed blinders from "BigLebowski" a pinside member. The Spring: from Pinball Spare Parts Australia. And a servo driver board from: Best of Pinball in Germany, which is made by Pinnovations.

Bob E.

base plate 004 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#492 2 years ago
Quoted from bob_e:

Who would be interested in a reproduction base plate for the blinders in their Tommy pin?
Please send me a PM if you are interested. I am not taking orders at this time. Just wondering if there is anyone interested.
I plan on making one prototype to test in my personal game and get an idea how much it cost me in time and materials. I have access to the machinery in the tool shop where I work. The base will be solid steel not a stamping, the shaft will be steel too pressed into the base. I have been making a replacement servo and arm assembly and selling them here on Pinside. Which came about when I was selling a Tommy for a friend and it needed the servo and driver board.
Now that I have my own Tommy I have the actual part to measure and replicate. My game is missing: the blinders, servo/arm, & driver board. I have ordered a set of 3D printed blinders from "BigLebowski" a pinside member. The Spring: from Pinball Spare Parts Australia. And a servo driver board from: Best of Pinball in Germany, which is made by Pinnovations.
Bob E.

I would be interested. My Tommy is missing everything. I wonder how much it will cost to get blinders going in total.

#493 2 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I would be interested. My Tommy is missing everything. I wonder how much it will cost to get blinders going in total.

From What I have made and odered about $400-450, Depending on shipping and exchange rates:

I just ordered the 3d printed blinder $163.20, Pinside member BigLebowski in Germany
...160.00 Shipped + 3.20 paypal fee..
Driver board 77.84 Pinnovations ordered from Best of Pinball in Germany
Return spring $22.18 Pinball Spare Parts Australia
I sell my servo arm assembly for 89.00 Shipped
I would be able to make sell it for $75.00. Maybe less, I have not made one yet.

But you may find some parts on Ebarf. Or parts for sale here in Pinside or that other Pinball web sites.

Note: that I may not have the base plate made until next year. I am very busy, overtime at work.

#494 2 years ago

It may be worth noting that you can also get a custom-designed blinder replacement from user Bakerman for ~190 € which includes everything (bracket, arm, spring, blinders, motor, screws) except for the driver board.

With it being a custom design, no original parts can be used to fix it if it breaks though, and the long term durability has not been proven yet.
I haven't had any problems with mine for half a year now.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-tommy-blinders-repro

#495 2 years ago
Quoted from MauriceSTYS:

It may be worth noting that you can also get a custom-designed blinder replacement from user Bakerman for ~190 € which includes everything (bracket, arm, spring, blinders, motor, screws) except for the driver board.
With it being a custom design, no original parts can be used to fix it if it breaks though, and the long term durability has not been proven yet.
I haven't had any problems with mine for half a year now.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-tommy-blinders-repro

This Might be Worth It. $400 I Would Probably Pass.

#496 2 years ago

Knowing the cost of replacing missing items from your game can give you leverage or insight, when buying a Tommy that is missing some or all of the parts.

I can upgrade to a color DMD for about $369, is it worth it to replace a display in good working order? I have yet to buy one,
But if my current DMD need to be replaced at $179 then I would consider the upgrade.

#497 2 years ago

Recently I equipped my Tommy with Titan rings and sleeves, all in yellow, and it looked really nice. Unfortunately it made the game almost unplayable, at least for somebody with my limited skills. The Titans are extremely tacky and much bouncier than the normal rubbers. That made it very hard for me to get the ball into the VUK and it made the outlanes even more brutal than they usually are (which is brutal enough for my taste.... ). The skillshot also became harder because the ball would often bounce back into the right orbit instead of dropping into the hole. That almost never happens with normal rubbers.
The VUK also gets more difficult to hit because the diameter of the Titans is much bigger than the stock rubber sleeves Data East installed on those posts. On this picture you can see the original sleeve on the left, a Cliffy in the middle and a Titan on the right.

P1090496 (resized).JPG

So I reverted back to stock black seleeves and now my Tommy is fun to play again. The outlanes still suck, but it´s much better than before.
I didn't manage to get to the Wizard mode yet, but at least I collected 8 or 9 modes and I´m positive that one day I´ll make it there.....

#498 2 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

Recently I equipped my Tommy with Titan rings and sleeves, all in yellow, and it looked really nice. Unfortunately it made the game almost unplayable, at least for somebody with my limited skills. The Titans are extremely tacky and much bouncier than the normal rubbers. That made it very hard for me to get the ball into the VUK and it made the outlanes even more brutal than they usually are (which is brutal enough for my taste.... ). The skillshot also became harder because the ball would often bounce back into the right orbit instead of dropping into the hole. That almost never happens with normal rubbers.
The VUK also gets more difficult to hit because the diameter of the Titans is much bigger than the stock rubber sleeves Data East installed on those posts. On this picture you can see the original sleeve on the left, a Cliffy in the middle and a Titan on the right.

So I reverted back to stock black seleeves and now my Tommy is fun to play again. The outlanes still suck, but it´s much better than before.
I didn't manage to get to the Wizard mode yet, but at least I collected 8 or 9 modes and I´m positive that one day I´ll make it there.....

I changed my machine over to mostly Titan a while back and I guess I've just gotten used to it! It's certainly faster than stock and more challenging (especially combined with a waxed playfield and modern anti-loft target brackets). As for the VUK posts, that black one in the picture actually looks like modern Stern slim post sleeve. My game's original factory rubber had standard 1" black post sleeves (as opposed to 7/8" listed in the manual) that were the same size/diameter as the Cliffy ones. Never noticed the Titan ones being thicker (I changed them to Cliffy's at one point because of a better yellow) - now I'm curious about that!

#499 2 years ago
Quoted from bob_e:

Knowing the cost of replacing missing items from your game can give you leverage or insight, when buying a Tommy that is missing some or all of the parts.
I can upgrade to a color DMD for about $369, is it worth it to replace a display in good working order? I have yet to buy one,
But if my current DMD need to be replaced at $179 then I would consider the upgrade.

Yeah, my dmd is bad. However, you can buy good used ones for $80. So it's $80 vs $369. I think I will buy a color just to rotate in and out of machines. I have a Congo, shadow and tommy.

After negotiating a partial refund on my Vietnamese dirty whore Tommy, I'm into the machine for $2200 shipped. It is a Vietnamese reimport beat to shit. However playfield is decent and after I worked on it plays like a champ. I kind of like the character. I know most pin guys are all about condition but this will be my old Chevy that keeps running. I upgraded to all leds and getting the prop mod. I don't want to put to much into it because it would literally be putting lipstick on a pig. So far I enjoy it and think the sounds and callouts are great. Outlanes are a bitch. Damn they are a bitch.

#500 2 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

So I reverted back to stock black seleeves and now my Tommy is fun to play again.

If you want to add some color without negatively affecting the gameplay, I'd suggest Cliffy post sleeves. I have them on my machine, and they play great.

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