(Topic ID: 282887)

The Terminator from hell

By Arcade

3 years ago


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  • 18 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by eyeamred2u
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#1 3 years ago

I have a T2 that had a lot of issues. Most of them have been fixed with special thanks to certain members of this group. (You know who you are from my other rather lengthy thread).

But in the interest of keeping things nice an neat, here is what the game is currently up to.

When turned on the game will boot properly on the MPU board and give the single (bong tone) to let me know all is well.
However the only part of the game that comes alive are all the GI and the cannon will swing back and forth non stop.
Nothing else will come on. No controlled lamps, No DMD, and the coin door buttons will not do anything.

I have pulled the MPU board out and put it in another game and it boots that game just fine.
I have also taken another working MPU board and put it in this game but have the same issues. So I know the problem is not with the MPU at all.
I have put in all new ribbon cables as well and made sure they are plugged in correctly on all the pins.

I'm up for any guesses as to what might be causing this.

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from DK:

Have you checked your test points on the driver board?

Yes. I believe they are all still good but will post them again here in a couple of hours.
They were my original issue because my power supply was pinned incorrectly and sending the wrong voltage through this board.
But we eventually got this corrected.

#4 3 years ago

Well now I have gone backwards yet again with this crazy game.
After leaving the game on long enough to try and measure voltages the game flashed all the playfield lamps and the knocker went on and off all at once. Followed by nothing but a faint tick, tick tick tick sound.

TP1 was making my meter beep instead of giving a reading.

Now every time I power up the game I get D19 and D21 LEDs solid on my MPU instead of the normal boot I was getting along with the faint ticking sound.
Arrrrrgh.

#5 3 years ago

Got it to boot again after a rest
TP1 was 15.95
TP 2 was 7.0
TP 6 was 75.4
TP 7 was 22.5
TP 8 was 18.8 and that’s as far as I got before it did the giant flash and ticking noise again.

#6 3 years ago

I have already replaced R260 because TP 6 was high before. It used to read 87.8 before we rewired the transformer.

4381AFB5-6884-4924-9F0B-39A32A4CC89F (resized).jpeg4381AFB5-6884-4924-9F0B-39A32A4CC89F (resized).jpeg

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Unplug connectors in the bottom of the cabinet and re connect them and see what happens. I just had a similar situation with my T2 and my purple wire connector was not completely plugged in.

Certainly can’t hurt.
I’ll give that a go.

#9 3 years ago

It’s a no go.
Same story, board boots up but nothing but GI lights

I went ahead and ordered the 3 sound Rom chips.
The owner had the swear Rom installed and the new chip I got in was the official L8.
So on the off chance that U14, 15 and 18 are incompatible with the main chip I will at least have them all match up now.
Long shot, but it can't hurt anything.

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Have you tried unplugging the sound board and then turning it on? Same for the DMD main board? Try eliminating things and narrowing it down to the driver board or something else.

Ribbon cables or power cables to these 2 boards?

#13 3 years ago

Thanks.
I’ll have some time in about an hour to give it a try.

#14 3 years ago

Ok. Guess the issue is with the large CPU board.
With sound and DMD completely unplugged I get the same behavior.
MPU is booted fine but only GI and swinging cannon on the playfield.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

You mean the Power Driver Board?

Yes.

Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Perhaps you have a bad coin door switch?

Hey at this point I'm ready to try standing on one foot and saying a sacred chant. So I will certainly try this idea out.

#17 3 years ago

Coin door switch working fine

Guess I will need to PM Dumbass or Chris Hilber and see if they think it is the Power Driver board and if one of them can take a crack at it.
Sure seems like maybe just a bad cap or something but I would need to know what to test and what the readings should be.

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