Is there also a "White Taxi" being done?

I admire your work, but think System 11 machines need white rubber

Looking good though!

Chris

Those are looking awesome. Were they new plfields or did you clear them?

Wow, those ramps flaps look amazing!

If I may ask, how did you cut them?

Chris

what material did you use for the ramp flaps? Was it already blued?

Pinrestore is great, but if you are looking for a larger sheet, BAA has them...

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=FLP

What type of riveter did you use, and what size rivets? Also how did you get the old rivets out?

Cool. I had to buy new spring steel as well as mine's all rusted. 1/8th diameter rivets, is there a length too or are you just eyeballing case by case? Those are nickel looks like. I'd imagine that for the ramps, guides, etc that they're all the same rivet type and size?

Yes. Sys 11 era non-flipper coils were all yellow. Somewhere in WPC production, they went with a different color for different values.

For some reason, I think my t2s all had all yellow coils.

For sure all my original coil wrappers were Yellow. I ended up using PPS's new wrappers because I'm not 100% a stickler for total accuracy. I also swapped my lockdown bar for the newer WPC style because you can't get new System 11 ones.

If you can reach Rick, I had the same issue with my Taxi, and called him, he just made the correct color for the coils I needed based on what my game already had in them, and made them part of the coil wrapper kit I bought from him.

All of my WW coil wrappers (original) are yellow.

This. Is. AWESOME.

Ha. What the heck is going on there. Think you're joking but in case you're not 23-800 is the right coil

Not present on my coils. Not sure what it means, but now I'm curious!

IMG_0468.JPG

I believe -03 means it's a 1N4003 diode.

Why would they use a 300 volt diode on a solenoid that operates on 50 volts?

Uh, ok, so I'm out of my depth here. But the backspike of voltage when a coil is shut off is a multiple of the input voltage. A 1N4002 diode is only good to 100V, so presumably a 1N4003 diode is big enough.

Or maybe they were on sale.

http://www.diodes.com/datasheets/ds28002.pdf says 1N4003 is good to 200V, not 300V.

When the pushbutton switch is actuated, current goes through the inductor, producing a magnetic field around it. When the switch is de-actuated, its contacts open, interrupting current through the inductor, and causing the magnetic field to rapidly collapse. Because the voltage induced in a coil of wire is directly proportional to the rate of change over time of magnetic flux (Faraday's Law: e = NdΦ/dt), this rapid collapse of magnetism around the coil produces a high voltage “spike”.

If the inductor in question is an electromagnet coil, such as in a solenoid or relay (constructed for the purpose of creating a physical force via its magnetic field when energized), the effect of inductive “kickback” serves no useful purpose at all. In fact, it is quite detrimental to the switch, as it causes excessive arcing at the contacts, greatly reducing their service life. Of the practical methods for mitigating the high voltage transient created when the switch is opened, none so simple as the so-called commutating diode.

However, when the switch is opened, the coil's inductance responds to the decrease in current by inducing a voltage of reverse polarity, in an effort to maintain current at the same magnitude and in the same direction. This sudden reversal of voltage polarity across the coil forward-biases the diode, and the diode provides a current path for the inductor's current, so that its stored energy is dissipated slowly rather than suddenly in Figure above (c).

As a result, the voltage induced in the coil by its collapsing magnetic field is quite low: merely the forward voltage drop of the diode, rather than hundreds of volts as before. Thus, the switch contacts experience a voltage drop equal to the battery voltage plus about 0.7 volts (if the diode is silicon) during this discharge time.

In electronics parlance, commutation refers to the reversal of voltage polarity or current direction. Thus, the purpose of a commutating diode is to act whenever voltage reverses polarity, for example, on an inductor coil when current through it is interrupted. A less formal term for a commutating diode is snubber, because it “snubs” or “squelches” the inductive kickback.

For the nerds
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/9.html

Is it the one in the middle is upside down? Cause that is killing my OCD.

AR! It's talking like a pirate

Mine is folded at the moment, but if I remember there was a piece of sticky foam on the underside of the ramp to prevent damage to the ramp because the natural clearances were 0...

I think you are correct on the support, I have playfield swap to do with the Pinball Inc ramps too, I'll be crossing this bridge soon...

I've never seen ramp flaps on the sides. I agree with you that inside the ramp seems to make more sense. If it was outside, why bother?

Goes in front not behind, otherwise the ball strikes the edge of the plastic of the ramp and could damage the ramp / reject the shot. The spring steel makes the transition to the ramp smooth and makes the shot more achievable.

Also, my new ramp also scrapes on the post. The new ramps are not as flexible as the old ones, I had to apply a small amount of force to get them to fit into place. I don't recall a piece to protect against scratching the bottom of the ramp. In practice the ramps should be pretty snug and won't scratch after they're screwed into place, because they shouldn't be moving.

Just found this thread. Great project.