(Topic ID: 109931)

The SprayMax 2K Auto Clear in a Can Club!

By Curbfeeler

9 years ago


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  • 1,902 posts
  • 235 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by gdonovan
  • Topic is favorited by 358 Pinsiders

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#291 7 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Anyone done a cabinet this way? I'm giving it some thought.

I clear my cabinets because I use auto paints that are all matt finish. The clear add the shine and a lot of protection. They all look great. I started using 1K clear spray cans which is much cheaper than 2K cans and the finish is also good.

I have progressed now to 2K gloss clear with proper spray equipment same as I use on the play-fields. The gloss on the cabinets shrinks back quickly to a semi gloss look.

Sorry Otaku buddy too much speculation. You need to restore some cabinets and gain this experience as time dulls any finish.

See below examples;

Cleared Games (resized).jpgCleared Games (resized).jpg
DSC04012 (resized).JPGDSC04012 (resized).JPG
DSC04014 (resized).JPGDSC04014 (resized).JPG

#293 7 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Nice mirror finish on those Major League, I can practically see 2 machines.

Yes, but the clear is dulled a bit so only one game left in the stable now.

1 year later
#710 5 years ago

Great you are making a booth and well done. I like the video as it is tackling this work from the necessary safety angle.

I use a similar spray booth bigger but outside never inside, this clear stuff is too nasty. The weather can and will push the clear back into your garage. Bring your play-field in to your garage to cure after an hour or so if the weather dictates.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/making-a-collapsible-pvc-paint-booth#post-3634101

#713 5 years ago
Quoted from Frogger1108:

If you want to see how you really use 2K look at this:

Oh wow!

He read the instructions but thought they were in a foreign language think it was in English. The words he though were foreign perhaps were cyanide or carcinogenic. I don't think that was the first time he has used it after that comment.

And yes he now has a clear coat film on his lungs.
Wow....

1 year later
#1022 3 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

Laser printers are pretty cheap!

Do you know one for a sensible price that will a print a perfect color decal? I don’t.

#1024 3 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Color matching decals is really hard, you have scanner/camera issues, monitor issues, printer issues.... in addition to the color hue, there is the saturation issues. I have a low-end dell laser (I print something about once every 6 months) and it is not too bad but noticeable on the plastic, I would not try to match a portion of the playfield.. whole sections or black is all I would do to minimize color matching issues.
If you are interested in how mine came out, I posted my results of making a new plastic piece with art at. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/it-was-supposed-to-be-a-simple-flash-restore/page/4#post-5513198

Honest confession here. I use my work printers here when it is quiet. I have made perfect decals for playfield and the colors blended in perfectly. As expensive as they are printers are not set up the same so you need to try a few. I went to staples or office depot not sure which but they jammed their printer so I can't go back there.

I have bought two laser printers one new and one was recommended a few years back here and I got one second hand from ebay. Neither could pass the paper through without jamming. Returned both.

So still waiting (and my employer) for a home laser color printer recommendation for waterslide decals.

3 weeks later
#1043 3 years ago
Quoted from jasonspoint28:

I’m hoping to get a coat of Spraymax 2k on my Gold Strike soon. What can I do about these bad bare wood areas? I hate to lay down clear over this and lock it in.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Tape of your painted area and sand the bare wood. Then use shellac clear or with some tone to get close to the remaining wood tone. You should be able to remove the ball line.

Be careful if there is a lot of wear as the top wood layer is not that thick. Use shellac spray or brush on to match the rest of the wood. Then apply clear with a pipet to spot fill wear spots in the wood if you need.

2 months later
#1063 3 years ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Just repeating this since it seems to have been ignored. Again, if anyone has access to a supplier of industrial half or full mask respirators and cartridges that will ship to Canada, I still have a professional need.

I just googled OV/N95 respirators / masks. Plenty available as I saw. What is your real beef?

#1067 3 years ago
Quoted from wayinla:

Unfortunately these are out of stock everywhere that I’ve looked.

I see the 6001 cartridges on Amazon etc. if you are new to 2k spraying I guess you may not have the 1/2 face respirator. There seems to be full face 3m respirators that use these cartridges for less than $60.

2 years later
#1642 1 year ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:Dang....
Doing what I hope is final sanding after 3 cans....burned thorugh the clear and paint on an edge of the playfield with the orbital sander at 1000 grit, maybe I tipped it a bit.
It is almost completely covered by a wooden side rail, maybe a 1" sliver will be visible if you stand at the far edge of the machine and look down. It's maybe 1/8" wide at the edge of the playfield so the ball will never touch it.
I'm thinking "best is the enemy of the good" at this point and will do a little touch-up after I polish the playfield. Still wavering but not sure I want to touch it up and spray a fourth can.

Dang,
I follow your threads and think I know how this will play out….

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