Quoted from quinntopia:

Not sure this is the right place for this but I wanted to share my experience here since this comes up occasionally and someone might be able to learn from my mistake.
With the obvious dangers of Spraymax 2k, I decided to only use 2k on my topcoat and use the Spraymax 1k (somewhat less toxic and terrifying to use) as the basis for my sealing coats between Createx air-brush touch ups.
DON'T DO THIS! IT will not work!
What I discovered the hard way is that when you have the Spraymax 1k as a base, then apply Createx (and I have no reason to doubt any other brand) touch ups and THEN seal it with a top coat of the SM 1k it will cause your beautiful acyrilic touch ups to wrinkle like a California Raisin that spent too much time in the pool.
The photos here show you what the result looks like.
I did some more testing to discover this the hard way which you can read more detail on in my Sinbad Restoration post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sinbad-restoration/page/2#post-3868603

Quoted from quinntopia:

Thanks Plu! I thought I had read somewhere about humidity potentially causing some issues. Good news is that it dropped to 51% and I was able to shoot a can and a half getting three good applications. Whew! Seems to have turned out well. This locks in my airbrush layers, next is key lining and minor touch ups. After that another coat of clear, then decals, then final coat!

Quoted from gmkalos:

Wet sanded with 1,500 reveling all low spots that the first 4 coats didn't quite level out. This pf was in trouble with significant wear but is unobtanium! Back into the booth for the 4 final coats (can) and 3-4 hours baking time...and gentlemen we have a sheet of glass! lol I will follow this up with a good finish polishing, wet sanding with 2K, then machine polish with Meguiar's ultimate compound finished with a good waxing using my fav stuff happy-sloth!

Quoted from rkahr:

Team Max2K,
Over the last 3 years or so I've done two playfields with Max2K and both came out good. One was Firepower and the other was Bally Monte Carlo. I'm no artist so I don't even try to make touch-up part of the process; I just want to keep the art that is there from getting any worse. I'm working myself toward doing a Flash and I've run across a concern that I figured I would seek feedback via this thread.
I have a total of 4 Flash playfields (story for another day) from which I selected the best as the clear coat candidate. Problem is the candidate is not be made of plywood - I think it's some sort of MDF. And I don't think the art on top is just paint on top of the material. It just looks different from the edge than painted plywood. Maybe this different material is why this candidate has weathered the years so well. Pictures below are the edges of first the 'maybe MDF' PF and second a plywood PF
My questions revolve around whether I should clear this guy. For example, if the material is more forgiving/pliable than plywood will the clear fail? Some inserts are loose so I'll be correcting that as well. Maybe I'd need different glue for this material? What other "gotcha's" might you worry about with this playfield? If anyone has come across this and can report results I'd be much appreciated. I didn't know there were non-plywood playfields out there. I could just do one of the plywood PFs but there is a big difference in art condition between this example's art and the other three I own.
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-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my Pinball 2000 H+V Video Sync Combiner kit

Quoted from rkahr:

Given those pictures what's the collective thought on clearing this PF? Maybe nobody has come across a PF like this?
-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my Pinball 2000 H+V Video Sync Combiner kit

Quoted from Yelobird:

Personally I would Not CC any of the metal. In very short order lines will wear in and there will be no way to repair at that point. Just clean and reinstall.