How much left over from 1 can I would have doing a Fish Tales mini playfield? How many coats you guys do? 3-4?
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How much left over from 1 can I would have doing a Fish Tales mini playfield? How many coats you guys do? 3-4?
Quoted from tezting:Why would you not spray the whole playfield?
I would think his playfield is still populated.
With only 1 can, can I?
Put on a light coat,
Wait 12h, sand,
Put on a wet coat,
Wait 24h, sand,
Put another wet coat.
Quoted from tezting:Wet coat?
Potato, patato. Yes wet coats.
When you guys put on wet coats, do you spray 1 heavy coat or 2-3 medium wet coats with a few minutes flash in between? Or both gives the same result?
http://can.spraymax.com/fileadmin/download/spraymax/spraymax_tmb/spraymax_tmb_gb/TMB033_US.pdf
68 farenheit or 20 Celsius
Quoted from lb1:You shoot the second layer either before the first coat has dried to a point where the second coat can no longer fuse into it, or after it has dried and you have sanded it to create tooth for the next one to properly stick to it. Check the product sheet of what you are using for specifics. The PPG Shopline I use says two medium wet coats 2-5 minutes apart.
I guess he implied some sanding between those 2 coats.
Quoted from lb1:A full can seems like an awful lot of clear.
From what he suggested, especially if the playfield had some planking and valleys, 3 cans for the whole job should be it. Each can in 2 separate coats, sanding as flat as possible between each can. Does that make sense?
Wondering how many coats/sanding can be done within the same day?
Let's say I clear in the morning, when can I go back and sand before doing more coats?
I believe I should wait 1-2 weeks of curing before doing the final wet coat?
Quoted from yellowghost:The application sheet says 10-15 minutes between coats. I would stick to that.
Yes, I found this data yesterday, I'll go with that.
I shall report back.
Got my first 2 coats (1 full can) on. I clean up my shed, made some room and hang up my light.
I waited about 12-15 mins between coats. Looking good except I made a mistake when I mixed my white paint using straight up flow improver instead of my homemade mix. Result, the white paint seems to want to wrinkle. I'll see once it's dry and sanded if I need to touch it back up...
Before, first time it sees the sun in months.
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My setup and condition.
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Let's take a last picture and get the f**k of of there...
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Quoted from arcademojo:Wow! Looks nice!!!
Thanks. Overall I'm happy. Like I said, at a few places I got wrinkles in the paint/clear, we'll see how it sand. Mostly on white around the edges of a few other places/color as well.
Quoted from lb1:Looks like you got a bit of orange peel with the Spraymax.
For a first application. I think that's OK. Once sanded and after a couple more applications, that should level out nicely and a final buffing should do the trick.
I'll report back.
Quoted from woz:where did you get the thermometer?
I don't remember, I had it for ages. I'm sure you can get something similar of amazon.
Quoted from woz:I did one light mist first followed by heavier coats
I should probably have done that.
I finished clearing my first playfield using SprayMax 2k today.
It is a Pinbot that needed paint touch-up after removing the factory mylar.
Overall I love the product. It is as good as it gets and it's not messy. On the expensive side but totally worth it.
I'll spare myself rewriting the whole thing again and direct you to my restoration thread for details on each steps, it starts about here.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-restoration-underway/page/3#post-3831131
Here some pictures to tell the story, it did not go without problems. But the end result looks pretty darn good.
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Did you guys leave the filled spot dry or shot clear over top soon after? I think it needs a longer time to cure and let all the air out.
Quoted from quinntopia:Anyway, I didn't spray anything over my inserts after the bubbles appeared as it was pretty horrendous.
Good to know. I had the same problems, some spot turned out OK, some not so good.
I'm sure most 2pac would work. Especially if you let it cure between applications.
Quoted from gmkalos:I just love this stuff another killer clear job on a Fire Power CPR gold now CPR platinum lol, its noticeably glossier than 2-pac that's for sure!
How did you prep your CPR playfield?
1 full can on the playfield?
Quoted from gmkalos:I use 2 cans total about 75% out of each can
2 additional cans, that's a lot of clear no?
I agree, looks like the clear repelled on some contaminant.
Sand as much as you can and respray. Good thing you bought 4 cans!
Your next coat will most likely need heavy sanding as well. Good luck, it's not catastrophic.
By the way, I'm looking at the gallery of this thread again and I see a lot of failed jobs. People looking for answers. That's fine. Do not get scared though, this would happen with regular 2 PAC shot with a gun as well. It makes it looks like a roll of dice.
Even though expensive, Spraymax is a great product and so easy and convenient to use.
Quoted from Wickedbass:I expect another half can or a little more.
Don't be shy. A wet coat is close to a full can.
Quoted from Wickedbass:Thanks.
How long till I can start assembling this thing? Not to play it just get it back together.
Thanks
Even after a few weeks the clear will still be soft. Anything screwed to the top side will leave a mark. Longer you wait, the better.
My playfield was quite planked and even if it looked like glass after polish, the clear continued to shrink and now I can see marks of the clear continuing to sink into the wood.
In my case, it would have been better to wait 2-3 weeks, even more before doing the final coat. Kruzman waits 2-3 weeks before each coat and does 4. Letting the clear cure and shrink. Now would have been a good time for me to do my last coat but I did not know and really wanted to move forward.
Quoted from Wickedbass:Putting the final coat on my buccanneer and I got some pretty nasty cloudy/milky looking areas.
Any ideas what caused this?
I had clouded spots where I filled a few low spot using an eye dropper. So I say yes to too thick of material.
Quoted from quinntopia:but the humidity is not forecast to be below 60% for several days -
Humidity is mostly a factor for drying time but does not impact adversely the quality of the clear job. Temp is more critical imho.
Quoted from PinballAir:I have been using brushes for cleaning copper fittings and compressed air.
Sounds like you are doing it right.
Personally, next playfield, I won't wet sand. Only dry sand to avoid the mess. Chris at HEP does it this way and I think it's wise...
Quoted from Wickedbass:still went through a bunch of it. Oh well it's cheap and cut way down on the mess
That is what I figured.
Anyway, my strategy will be:
Clear, dry sand level, clear, dry sand level, clear, buff, polish.
I won't sand after the final clear coat which just look too good on a levelled playfield.
Quoted from Plumonium:Only dry sand to avoid the mess
By mess, I also mean tiny scratches that can be left on the clear after sanding. Go 1 grit higher too quickly and only when the playfield is buffed that those scratches show up. Ruining a bunch of work.
Freshly cleared playfield are immaculate. Few dust speckles perhaps but nothing compare to surface scratches which I don't want to deal with anymore.
Quoted from flynnibus:It will look better sanded. If you are at 2500 grit... the compounding and buffing steps afterwards remove the sanding marks. High cut compound immediately removes sanding marks.
My cutting compound states to remove up to 1200 grit scratches. I'll report back when I'm at it. (CPR Fish Tales and mini)
I did clear with spraymax over decals with success. The first layer was thin but it overly thin. I let it dry 12h I think before doing the final heavy coat. I feel the decals were sealed and could go heavy.
I don't know if the brand/type of decal matters.
Quoted from quinntopia:I have decided I'm going to wait a week before doing any more coats.
Good thinking. If I was to redo my playfield, I would have wait 2-3 weeks between each coat. Probably more for the last one. As the clear continues to shrink for weeks, probably months.
I leveled my CPR Fish Tales with Spraymax this week-end. Thread here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fish-tales-cpr-leveled-and-cleared
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Quoted from tezting:Looking awesome.
Please report back in a couple of months and tell us if inserts have moved and edges are back.
How it the gloss compared to cpr?
Gloss is definitely improved as is without polishing.
I won't buff and polish until a few weeks/months and will report back on the inserts for sure!
Quoted from lurch:How long are you guys waiting to install and use your game? I ask because id like to do this to my shooter lane but I'm not interested in waiting weeks/months to play it again. Thoughts?
I'd wait at least 2 weeks.
Quoted from Bay78:Anybody know what stores sell this stuff in Canada?
Napa/CMax (CMax is the auto paint division of Napa) Don't think they will have it in regular Napa stores. Not around here in Qc anyway.
My 2 cents:
Quoted from northerndude:1. How much will I need to do a few coats on this?
1. You'll need 1 FULL can to do the equivalent of 1 thick wet coat. I suggest splitting your first 2 coats through your first can to be gentle on the decals. I also suggest 3 cans total with sanding in-between. For the wet coats, use the full can and watch out for atomization irregularity when your can is near empty. Try to shoot in different directions from full passes to full passes. Some people prefer using 2x 3/4 can to do a wet coat (more expensive).
Quoted from northerndude:2. How long after I spray can I spray again for another coat?
2. For the first can, I'd spray lightly, wait 20 min and then do the rest of the can. Wait a few days then lightly sand for tooth for the next can/wet coat.
Quoted from northerndude:3. How long after I spray can I sand?
3. I'ts easier to sand when it's not fully curred but better if it has sit a few days imho. I would wait 1 week before the second can and 2-3 weeks ideally before the final can. The clear will continue shrinking over time so even if you sand flush and shoot right way, you playfiled might end up not as leveled as you thought/wanted.
Quoted from northerndude:4. Then how long do I cure after I sand to do a second round of clear and a final sand / polish?
4. Do the final sand and polish another 2-3 weeks after the final coat, more if you can wait. Some poeple will only wait a few days or a week between coats. It really depends on how downtime you can afford in-between.
Again, only my personal recommendation. Next time I'll shoot spraymax, I'll use this technic.
Quoted from Plumonium:I leveled my CPR Fish Tales with Spraymax this week-end. Thread here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fish-tales-cpr-leveled-and-cleared
Quoted from tezting:Looking awesome.
Please report back in a couple of months and tell us if inserts have moved and edges are back.
I can report that inserts have sunk back in a little. Not as bad as before though. I'm on the fence if I'm going to try and just sand flat or shoot another coat all together.
Quoted from northerndude:HOLY shit is that Ultra cutting creme and Polish costs a fortune!
Is there a comparable product that isn't $150 for a bottle?
*Edit - never mind, some reason, frickin' ridiculous costs on amazon .ca and normal on .com
*Edit again - none of the .com shippers will send to Canada, hence the unreal high price on the .ca amazon site.
I ordered this from amazon.ca. Liked it.
Meguiars M105 (M10508) Paint Compound and Meguiar's M205 (M20508) Paint Polish
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01CRERKMM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
Quoted from tezting:I have done it many times. Remember to do VERY light coats over them first. (Advise from vid) I have done that every time and have had nothing but success ☺️
Ditto.
The harder part is to apply the waterslide without wrinkling them. They are so fragile. I stronlty suggest you print extras and practice beforehand or prepare for redo.
Quoted from Tommy-dog:HEP will be the only remaining decent playfield restorer left.
That's a bit harsh.
Quoted from Tommy-dog:but if your looking for a high-end restore
You first said decent restore.
I believe anyone with enough patience and some skills can pull off a more than decent playfield restoration.
Quoted from epeabs:Just sprayed my last two heavy coats tonight. Hopefully I'll be able to let it cure a couple of weeks and then wet sand and buff.
The surface looks very uneven. That will required quite a bit of sanding it looks like. No sure why it ended up this way...
Quoted from vid1900:The clear's surface tension walls-up around holes and edges.
That's why you sand between coats; to keep the playfield flat.
It's totally normal:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/20#post-1795975Nope, a light 120 grit sanding (on a large sanding pad), will quickly knock down those hills around openings.
Follow with 220, 400, 800, 1000 - each smaller grit requires less strokes than the one before it.
I figured the playfield should be pretty flat by the time the last coat is applied.
He looks immune to it though.
For those who used 2 parts clear before, there's no way to stand around that stuff without a mask. At least for me...
He's a beast.
He did reply to my comment:
Guillaume Bourque
21 hours ago
Safety first they say...
Ed Moore
14 hours ago
Safety 3rd...after beer and women! Lol
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